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Oaxaca Dining


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#31 Jaymes

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Posted 21 June 2003 - 03:14 PM

Curse you, Stella. I read this post just before going to bed. I wasn't hungry when I started reading it. Now I am. And London is a damned long way from Oaxaca.

Is it even possible to get decent Mexican food in England? Like can you buy stuff in the stores and make your own? Any restaurants that serve anything close to authentic Mexican food?

I'm really a little concerned about y'all.
PAY NO ATTENTION TO THE MAN BEHIND THE CURTAIN.



#32 stellabella

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Posted 21 June 2003 - 03:33 PM

a ustedes-- por supuesto, por supuesto!

um...miguelito and i are planning to go into atlanta this week and thoroughly scope the ethnic hispanic markets. my guess is that it's possible to buy the dried corn and lime and make one's own masa--or buy masa dough, refrigerated or frozen--i'll update this when i find out.

i have a gas stove and the comal i purchased is fairly small--it needs to be set over flames--an electric range doesn't seem like it would work. again i tell you these things are miraculous--the heat distributes uniformly--the mexican comals often appear white [and/or charred] and this is more lime-- they are painted with lime for two reasons: it creates a non-stick surface AND it adds calcium to the diet--yet another example of the incredible economy of mexican culture--everything used, nothing wasted.

i also suggest buying yourself an olla if available--i plan to--too damn big to carry home on a plane, though. ususally the terra-cotta-colored ceramic, glazed on the outside, but not interior--used for simmering moles and boiling frijoles--another miraculous utensil as the heat distributes all the way up to but just short of the handles--which can still be grasped without pot-holders. many people are concerned about lead in cheap local earthenware pottery--but i was told by a very reliable source that, while inconclusive, studies suggest mexicans who use this pottery have lower levels of lead in their blood than we here in el norte--common sense dictates two cautions: don't cook highly acidic foods and don't store anything in them--otherwise they're fine to use, not to mention beautiful.

#33 sladeums

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Posted 21 June 2003 - 06:01 PM

Stella, thank you very much for this post...an excellent addition to these forums...great stuff.
I was really interested in the advice about buying chocolate - I had thought about this particular issue quite a bit...
strangely, since I'll probably never have the means to go there.

But thank you for going for us and especially for sharing.
...I thought I had an appetite for destruction but all I wanted was a club sandwich.

#34 divina

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Posted 15 October 2003 - 04:51 AM

Thanks for your info!
I had been to Suzanna's school years ago and am returning now for a refresher course!!!
will be speding a week in Oaxaca and then off to the beach!
I hope to perfect my tamales!

will be stocking up on the chocolate... and perhaps even a comal.. it is hard to bring it back to Italy though!
Looking forward to tasting the mescals..and other goodies too!!!

#35 alacarte

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Posted 28 October 2003 - 03:04 PM

Great post, thank you for sharing. I can picture it all.

I received a brochure in the mail for cooking schools in Sicily and Oaxaca, I think it's called "Cooking in Grandmother's Kitchen," or something like that.

One of the available courses took place during mushroom-foraging season. The package included a guided mushroom-picking tour, cooking classes, and board in a guest house at the hosts' home.

My husband, a closet lover of luxury, did not understand why I was so charmed by the idea. His take: "You want me to go to MEXICO with you to PICK MUSHROOMS, COOK THEM MYSELF, and SLEEP IN THEIR HOUSE, not even a hotel???"

#36 Jay Francis

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Posted 17 August 2004 - 12:57 PM

I just thought I d write to see if any fellow Egulleteers are in Oaxaca this week. I am here shopping for foodstuffs, exploring the markets, and taking cooking classes, if anyone would like to meet up for dinner.

Also, any questions related to Oaxacan cuisine, I would be pleased to answer.

Sincerely,

Jay

#37 shelora

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Posted 17 August 2004 - 02:13 PM

I'm in Oaxaca most everyday, but physically I'm in Victoria.
I do have a few questions since we almost made it to Oaxaca at this exact time. So I would love to have a complete report.
What's the weather like?
Tourist count and type of tourist.
What's in season in the market?
Who's classes are you taking and what are you cooking?
Any new restaurants? What did you have?
Where are you staying?
Price increases?
Can hardly wait to hear from you.

Shelora

#38 Squeat Mungry

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Posted 17 August 2004 - 02:19 PM

I too am eager to hear anything and everything about Oaxaca City, and the state, as I am now in the planning stages of a vacation there in late November. Especially interested in hearing about cooking classes.

Thanks for posting this thread! Looking forward to it.

Cheers,

Squeat

#39 Jay Francis

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Posted 19 August 2004 - 07:04 AM

Wow, Shelora, that is a heck of a lot of questions. I m going to have to wait until I get back to the United States to handle all of that. Talk to you soon. What I will do is refer you to Lonely Planets guide to Mexico and then supplement with some observations from this trip.

Jay

#40 shelora

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Posted 19 August 2004 - 09:29 PM

Sorry for all the questions, Jay, but I'm hungry. We are ususally in Oaxaca at Christmas time - will be again this year - and had played around with the idea of going in August for a friends 50th. That fiesta was cancelled so here we are getting ready to explore the Oregon coast instead.
I'm very curious about the scene in oaxaca at this time of year. You don't need to refer me to the Lonely Planet, although that is very thoughtful.
I must tell you we had some great Spanish food in Oaxaca last Christmas, very authentic, at Casa d'Olivo across from the Camino Real. That is if you want a different flavour than regional Mexican.
And don't forget to buy some Salina Cruz sea salt in the market, it puts Fleur de sel to shame.
Waiting to hear more.
S

#41 Jay Francis

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Posted 21 August 2004 - 04:24 PM

I can tell you that the weather was superb, and even though this is supposedly the slowest month, there was wonderful activity and a lot of European tourists giving the town an international feel.

It's good that you have your hotel. I would have recommended the Hotel Trebol that is right by the downtown markets and still under the radar of most guide books. Typically a double at this time of year is $50.

Susanna Trilling of course still offers her day cooking classes beginning with a tour of the Etla market on Wednesdays for $75. And Pilar Cabrera offer classes at her bed and breakfast Casa de mi Sabores, for $60 per person or $75 for a one person private lesson. Both were taken by me and both were excellent.

One of the high points on this trip was discovering the mountain biking place and taking a four hour bike ride from the city that took me through Atzompa, home of the Blanco family pottery, and Arrazola.

Foodwise, my first stop upon arrival was to the area of Mercado 20 Noviembre fro some grilled cecina and tasajo. Restaurantwise, I ended up defaulting to Las Ollas, Pilar's restaurant, and El Naranjo. So many choices, so little time. Tamales from street vendors for my breakfast. Hot chocolate for my evening meal at Fonda Maria Alejandra in the 20 Noviembre market.

#42 Jay Francis

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Posted 22 August 2004 - 06:05 AM

For bicycling: Bicicletas Bravo at Garcia Vigil 409

For Shopping: I am so grateful that we began collecting our carvings, etc. in the 90's as prices have increased and quality has decreased. Carvings are smaller and the paint they are using now is not very aesthetically appealing. Still, the aniline dye carvings from La Union have their charm, although they also have gotten expensive. Carvings that we would have paid $20 for in the 90's now have an asking price of $60 and are not worth it.

The store, Chimalli, has moved across the street on Garcia Vigil from where it used to be and is smaller, no more large area in back for packing of your purchases. But his quality is still excellent and the prices are fair considering what others are asking for lower quality fair.

Hotels: My intention was to stay in a different hotel each night. My first night was at the Trebol, that still gets my vote for overall value in the $50 range. However, I ended up at a new tiny hotel called Los Frailes. The room was small, was $40 for a single, and the cable tv had 60 channels, so I caught up on a lot of movies. But the family that runs this place is so gentile, I just couldn't leave. I got to socialize with three generations. When people are this nice, you just stay and stay and stay. And the location was terrific, at Reforma and Constitucion.

Hotels: Trebol. Flores Magon #201. www.oaxaca-mop.com/trebol.htm
Casa de los Frailes. Constitucion #203. casadelosfrailes@yahoo.com.mx

Fonda: 20 de Noviembre Market for hot chocolate and Tlayuda Mixta.
Comedor Maria Alejandra, puestos 94, 95, 96

Cooking Class: Casa de los Sabores (also has a $70 a night bed and breakfast)
www.mexonline.com/sabores.htm

#43 shelora

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Posted 08 September 2004 - 08:24 AM

What was the class like at Casa de Los Sabores? What did you learn how to make and was it taught in English or Spanish? Was it hands-on? I'll be in Oaxaca at Christmas and would like to try someone else's class.
S

#44 Papaya

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Posted 05 November 2004 - 05:39 PM

I'm a college student who will be spending a semester (4 months) in Oaxaca this spring - the original post in this thread has some great info but since it's about a year old, I was wondering if anyone has any new/updated info on food in Oaxaca (or any other useful general info)? I'm most interested in finding out about cheap, casual places & food. As I'm pretty unfamiliar with Mexican food right now, I can't wait to try some of the delicious-sounding things I've read about in this thread! Thanks in advance.

#45 Jay Francis

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Posted 10 November 2004 - 09:05 AM

Comales.

I usually bring back several clay comales when I go to Oaxaca. However, even in Oaxaca, they have a short life before cracking and needing to be replaced. I bury the halves in the garden, upright like little monuments. Now, the best comales are the thinnest ones, as more heat is transmitted and, if you have to use charcoal as in the villages you want to maximize your heat efficiency to keep costs down.

There is nothing wrong with using a metal comal, a cast iron griddle or skillet. This is typically what is used by street vendors in many Mexican cities. There is a nice authenticity about clay comales coated with cal, but it isn't really a necessity. I use cast iron all the time, and save my clay comales for when I want to impress someone.

#46 Jay Francis

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Posted 10 November 2004 - 09:17 AM

Markets.

True, the Abastos market is phenomenal. A religious experience as it were. But one shouldn't bypass the two markets downtown. At 20 Noviembre, you'll find your best fondas for eating, and an area where you buy meats that are then charcoal grilled right there. The first place I head toward when I get to Oaxaca.

Luisa Cabrera who owns Cafe de Olla and teaches cooking classes starts her class with a trip to her local market, which, like the Etla market, is full of many surprises, ladies she has known for years who specialize in one product such as cheese. Her classes run about $60 for the day, and I made one of the most delicious mole colorados in her class. Classes are held at her bed and breakfast which I believe is called La Casa de mis Sabores. You can get all the information at Cafe de Olla or probably doing a web search.

And other surprises. One day, waiting for my bus to Puebla at the 1st class bus station, I popped into a convenience store across the street. I ended up buying a kilo vacuum pack of SAF brand yeast for a couple of dollars. In a convenience store!

And chocolate. Chocolate Mayordomo has captured the market share of the chocolate business in Oaxaca and the other competitors do not do the business that they do. However, this is because Chocolate Mayordomo has worked hard to provide a superior product at competitive prices. Using two kinds of cacao (Tabascan and Chiapan) and further breaking those two into fermented and unfermented, they have developed a blend that is superlative. Also, their black mole in glass jars is top quality. Don't think that just because they are the biggest that they are too corporate.

#47 chocartist

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Posted 12 December 2004 - 09:29 PM

Mayordomo Chocolate is indeed the best Oaxacan chocolate (though Susana Trilling's chocolate is also wonderful). I first met the owner, Salvador Flores Concha, about 15 years ago. At that time his factory was very rustic, totally unlike the one he's in now. Though he has brought in heavy-duty machinery to roast the beans and refine and temper the chocolate, the factory still produces a traditional line of table chocolates. I'm happy to report that Mayordomo Chocolate is now available here at www.mexichoco.com.

I feel honored to be allowed to escort people who accompany me on my chocolate tours to Mexico through the factory. It is an amazing experience.

#48 caroline

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Posted 13 December 2004 - 05:49 PM

Elena,

Welcome. I'm so glad to see you posting (specially since I'd lost your contact information). And I'm sure all the regular posters agree that it would be great to get you chipping in with your chocolate knowledge on the Mexico forum.

Alll the best,

Rachel
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#49 caroline

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Posted 13 December 2004 - 05:53 PM

Oh, I forgot to say Elena that there is query about the chocolate of Bariloche in the Latin American forum. As I remember this chocolate it would not make Bariloche a destination spot for chocoholics. But perhaps I'm wrong. Have you run across it. Maybe you could post an answer.

And of course there are many other wonderful reasons to go to Bariloche.

Best,

Rachel
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#50 chocartist

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Posted 14 December 2004 - 07:49 AM

Oh, I forgot to say Elena that there is query about the chocolate of Bariloche in the Latin American forum.  As I remember this chocolate it would not make Bariloche a destination spot for chocoholics.  But perhaps I'm wrong.  Have you run across it.  Maybe you could post an answer.

And of course there are many other wonderful reasons to go to Bariloche.

Best,

Rachel

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#51 chocartist

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Posted 14 December 2004 - 07:53 AM

So good to hear from you, Rachel. I would be delighted to contribute to this forum more often and welcome inquiries.

As for Bariloche and its chocolate, I regret that I have never been there nor tasted its chocolate. I do know that it is a hot bed for chocolate, however. I've had several students from that area and know that there must be some good chocolate there somewhere.

#52 shelora

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Posted 24 December 2004 - 12:23 PM

Since I am currently in Oaxaca, I thought I would resurrect this post.
I wanted to let everyone know about the organic market that takes place Fridays, from 9 a.m. to 4 p.m. at El Pochote.
El Pochote is located on Garcia Vigil, 700 block. This fairly new market has the very best of what the Oaxaca organic growers have to offer. While still small - I counted ten vendors this morning - it is very strong.
Vendors of note are Arbol de la Vida, a 6 acre organic farm run by Valerie Nadeau. One acre of the farm is dedicated to lettuces that supply many of the areas restaurants and can be delivered weekly to your home in Oaxaca. Today I picked up the last of the snow peas, New Zealand spinach and a purple kohlrabi.
Carnes Orgnaica y Caseras, Estilo Artesania, is run by Simon Waldherr, who is making an exotic range of sausages from beef, pork and criollo turkey. The turkey and ground nuts is hugely popular, as is a Turkish style borrego (sheep) and the daily special today was Rabbit sausage perfumed with juniper. Home delivery is also available and the sausages run between 12 to 15 pesos each.
Next up is the Ricardi farm that produce the most tasty organic goat milk yogurt and two cheeses, queso de cabra which is a queso fresco - one plain and one with garlic and herbs. The other is a requeson, which kind of like a ricotta cheese. It was sweet and delicate and not at all "goaty". The Ricardi family also make cajeta and cajeta candy.
Other offerings at the market are organic honey, coffee, mescal, bee pollen and natural cotton clothing.
There was even a demonstration of solar powered cooking. The complete unit of two silver coloured cardboard panels and special double lined pot was offered at $450. pesos. The dish cooking for demo purposes was an organic potato, onion and oregano stew and was almost done when we showed up at 12 noon.

_________________

Dropping off a gift for a friend at Restaurant Casa Olivo, we discovered the chef owner Javier Olivo Cantero, making his own Jamon Serrano. Being sorely deprived on serrano ham in B.C., Canada, we simply had to sit down and order some.
He showed us the fridge where three enormous piernas were in various stages of curing. A plate of thinly sliced jamon was presented on toasted bread that had been spread with an olive oil and tomato mixture. The sweet fruity aroma of the freshly shaved ham was intoxicating, the flavour sublime.
We ordered another 1/4 kilo sliced for a party that evening and I am still dreaming of it days later.
Casa Olivo is on 5 de May 407 and specializes in Spanish cuisine. Portions are hardy and I also recommend the half duck, deboned and braised in a sauce of olives, tomatoes, sweetpeppers, potatoes and onions. Enough for two people at $175. peso.

Will post again soon for the next installment.
Feliz Navidad,
Shelora


So good to hear from you, Rachel.  I would be delighted to contribute to this forum more often and welcome inquiries.

As for Bariloche and its chocolate, I regret that I have never been there nor tasted its chocolate.  I do know that it is a hot bed for chocolate, however.  I've had several students from that area and know that there must be some good chocolate there somewhere.

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#53 caroline

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Posted 28 December 2004 - 06:00 PM

Shelora,

Thanks for the information on the organic market in Oaxaca. Sounds as if it wonderful stuff. If any of the followers of this list have run across similar markets, it would be great to hear about them.

What is clear is that the big growers have decided that the value-added margin for organic fruits and vegetables for the US is worth it. They are moving heavily into organic for export.

Around here (Guanajuato in central Mexico) I don't have the sense that people are willing to pay the extra. But small local companies producing local procesed but non-organic foods are just booming,

Rachel
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#54 esperanza

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Posted 29 December 2004 - 07:00 AM

In the village of Jaltepec, Jalisco, a small organic farming operation--Asociación Comunitaria de Autosuficiencia--is having a small success. They not only grow beautiful organic vegetables and herbs but train their employees in the benefits of farming the same way at home. Their fine produce is sold at retail in several places near Guadalajara and is used as well in several restaurants, including the nearby culinary resort Xilonen, owned and operated by Rose Marie Plaschinski of Slow Food fame.

Their intern program has attracted university students from several international spots.

If anyone is interested, I have contact information for ACA. They operate on a shoestring (a sometimes frayed shoestring at that) and need all the support they can get. Grants and private donations pick up the financial slack that sales often can't cover.
What's new at Mexico Cooks!?

#55 shelora

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Posted 18 January 2005 - 01:42 PM

Teotitlan del Valle, about 30 minutes outside of Oaxaca City, is home to exquisite weavers and a must on every tourist's itinerary. It is also home to the rather famous Tlamanalli restaurant, where the Mendoza sisters reign with their food representing this village.
Now, visitors can learn first hand about the distinct foods from this village by attending a cooking class at Casa Cerro Sagrada that is perched above the village proper.
For only $65. USD., the class, which includes transportation to and from Teotitlan, begins with a quick tour of the morning market. Quick is the operative word here as the market is over in a matter of two hours or so.
This market is where you will be introduced to the some of the more unique offerings of the village. Toasted and ground black bean powder to make soups, also a black bean paste that is aromatic with avacado leaves, hand ground to a paste on the stone metate - still very much a mainstay of the Zapotec kitchen here and precursor to the blender. We pick up some warm blandas made from yellow corn, much bigger than a tortilla.
We pick up a treat in the form of pan de cazuela - a chocolate and raisin stuffed bun brought in from neighbouring Tlacalula.
Armed with ingredients we are driven to the top of the mountain to Casa Cerro, a 12 room guest house. The garden is filled with hoja santa, wild tomatoes the size of an 'o', mint, avacadoes and passion fruit vines. The classes are taught by resident cook, Reyna Mendoza who regularly teaches visiting classes from all over the U.S.
Today the menu is a tamal de Mole Negro, a mole enchilada, a salsa de chile pasilla de Oaxaca (a smoked chile from the region), a salad of nopales, tomatoes and avacado and for dessert a banana ice cream. We dine overlooking Teotitlan and the surrounding hills toasting the event with shots of the smooth house mezcal.
During the class we learn many cooking tips; excess heat from soaked chiles can be eliminated or reduced by discading the soaking water and rinsing the chiles in hot water. And the very helpful hint when straining a sauce of a chile mixture, you can stop struggling with trying to extract every last bit by throwing the remainders back in the blender since you are blending in batches. (I hope that made sense).
The salsa preparation was fascinating as the chilies were "cooked" in the hot ashes - very distinct here. The chiles were buried in the ash until they puffed up and changed colour,tops cut off and seeds removed. Some of the ash is left in (and no, you cannot taste the ash).
There were only five of us in the class this day, but Casa Cerro can accommodate up to 25 and a minimum of four. So perhaps you can gather some friends together and check it out. The classes are held every first and third Friday of every month but during Christmas they were being held every second day.
Check their web for more info or fire off your enquiries to info@casasagrada.com and their web is www.casasagrada.com
Missing Mexico,
Shelora

#56 juuceman

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Posted 11 March 2005 - 10:49 AM

Dropping off a gift for a friend at Restaurant Casa Olivo, we discovered the chef owner Javier Olivo Cantero, making his own Jamon Serrano. Being sorely deprived on serrano ham in B.C., Canada, we simply had to sit down and order some.
He showed us the fridge where three enormous piernas were in various stages of curing. A plate of thinly sliced jamon was presented on toasted bread that had been spread with an olive oil and tomato mixture. The sweet fruity aroma of the freshly shaved ham was intoxicating, the flavour sublime.
We ordered another 1/4 kilo sliced for a party that evening and I am still dreaming of it days later.
Casa Olivo is on 5 de May 407 and specializes in Spanish cuisine. Portions are hardy and I also recommend the half duck, deboned and braised in a sauce of olives, tomatoes, sweetpeppers, potatoes and onions. Enough for two people at $175. peso.



thanks so much for this tip.. spent a few weeks along the Oaxaca coast and we shot up into the city for a long weekend in mid-January.. came across your post from the internet spot on the Zocalo and made a beeline straight for Casa Olivo.. the ham was wonderful and while i don't recall what else we ate, all the food was great..

Oaxaca is a bit odd in that there's great low brow eating at the taco and torta shops and some of the basic commedores and then there's a relatively new influx of gussied up Oaxacan classics that don't quite do it for me.. Casa Olivo, while definitely being aimed at the tourist/expat community, doesn't have the same odd feeling that we found at any of the other swanky places in town..

it's casual but the food is great.. thanks again for this great tip..

#57 shelora

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Posted 09 January 2006 - 06:37 PM

Dropping off a gift for a friend at Restaurant Casa Olivo, we discovered the chef owner Javier Olivo Cantero, making his own Jamon Serrano. Being sorely deprived on serrano ham in B.C., Canada, we simply had to sit down and order some.
He showed us the fridge where three enormous piernas were in various stages of curing. A plate of thinly sliced jamon was presented on toasted bread that had been spread with an olive oil and tomato mixture. The sweet fruity aroma of the freshly shaved ham was intoxicating, the flavour sublime.
We ordered another 1/4 kilo sliced for a party that evening and I am still dreaming of it days later.
Casa Olivo is on 5 de May 407 and specializes in Spanish cuisine. Portions are hardy and I also recommend the half duck, deboned and braised in a sauce of olives, tomatoes, sweetpeppers, potatoes and onions. Enough for two people at $175. peso.



thanks so much for this tip.. spent a few weeks along the Oaxaca coast and we shot up into the city for a long weekend in mid-January.. came across your post from the internet spot on the Zocalo and made a beeline straight for Casa Olivo.. the ham was wonderful and while i don't recall what else we ate, all the food was great..
it's casual but the food is great.. thanks again for this great tip..

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Hello, here is a quick update on Javier's restaurant. He has moved locations to Zarate No. 100, Centro, on the other side of the Parque Llano.
It is an open space, and as usual, welcoming. Here is a picture of Javier with his sweet Jamon Serrano in the courtyard/bar.
According to experts who have tried jamon serrano all over Spain, Javier makes the best. I agree.
He buys his pigs from Toluca, which he says, has similar conditions to those in Spain.
Posted Image

#58 shelora

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Posted 10 February 2006 - 04:33 PM

Casa Cerra Sagrada perched atop Teotitlan del Valle has a new and improved website. The addition of horseback riding looks inticing in that great countryside.

Sagrada

#59 Croque Monsieur

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Posted 20 February 2006 - 07:16 PM

Feb. '06 Oaxaca report. NB: I don't pretend to be a Mexican food expert.
We went to El Naranjo twice and it was excellent, both the moles and stuffed peppers. Also the best margarita we had. We went to cooking class there too, and it was a lot of fun; prepared and ate zucchini (at least, something like a zucchini) vinaigrette, mole amarillo, two great salsas, and cake tres leches. I might not make mole often, but I'll be making a lot of salsa now that I understand the techniques better.

Casa Oaxaca the restaurant was also good, I recommend the shrimp with chiles arbol. Marco Polo was very pleasant if not great, and the baked platanos with crema are a fine dessert.

In simpler restaurants, we had two good meals in La Olla and one exceptionally bad one at Maria Bonita, praised elsewhere in this thread.

On the Zocalo, we liked breakfast at La Primavera, especially the molletes with chorizo.

Off the topic of food, my wife and I loved the Temazcal sweat-lodge plus massage experience, a bargain at p$1200 for two. You book at Las Bugambilias B&B, although the site is uptown (p$50 taxi ride). You can't get much more relaxed....

#60 Jay Francis

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Posted 27 February 2006 - 07:20 PM

With my last trip to Oaxaca in November of last year, I realized that as much I love Mexico City, Puebla, Querretaro, and Guanajuato, my future excursions will be solely to Oaxaca. I had gotten into the habit of saving some money by flying into Mexico City, taking the bus from the airport to Puebla for a night and continuing on to Oaxaca the next day. But, factoring in the time (which has always been pleasant) and the hotel cost in Puebla, I think in the future I will bite the bullet and take the direct Houston Oaxaca flight.

My last stay was at the Casa Lidia, which, although owned by the same family which owns Posada Chencho is very reasonable. I loved being outside of the main part of town, so I could do more walking. My Spanish classes were convenient. I will probably always stay here. I used to like the Hotel Trebol because it was directly across from Juarez market, but the tiles absorb a lot of heat which then radiates at night and the rooms can be very warm.

I had to decide if I was going to do some biking and take some cooking classes or take Spanish classes. Opting for the latter, I did squeeze in one class through the school. But I was very close to the small market that Luisa Cabrera visits and I spent some great hours walking, talking, and shopping there.

One of the high points was a night of Lucha Libre which I truly love.

Even though this was the quietest time of year, there was still so much activity, including a nightly festival celebrating the music of the west coast of Oaxaca.

The zocalo is rebuilt, I approve of the changes they made.

Now, I have been coming here since the 80's. These days I buy kilos of chocolate, a few comales, and that's about all. Our house is too full of handicrafts. This time however, I went to Atzompa and bought some ceramic angels which were unique.

I am currently teaching two Mexican cooking classes and one is based on Mexican chocolate, including truffles, German chocolate pie a la Mexicana, a bourbon chocolate genoise, etc. The trick with Oaxacan chocolate is, because it has such granularity from the sugar, and since it would be difficult to temper in one's home, you need to dissolve the sugar with just enough liquid to do so, but no more.

The organic market is indeed wonderful, the organic jamaica, coffee, and chocolate are first rate.

Vanilla. I use the vanilla extract that Susana sells as flavoring whenever heat is not involved. However, based on an article in Cooks Illustrated and my own experimenting I have decided that Adam's Best, which is a blend of natural and artificial results in the most intense vanilla flavor whenever heat is involved.

Chocolate, well, for hot chocolate, it is always Chocolate Mayordomo, but I increase the quantity per cup. For baking, I default to one of the lesser chocolates that don't contain almonds, those from the North like Nestle's Abuelita for example.

And that big bag of SAF yeast from the convenience store in 2004? I am still using it. Everyone should put this on their shopping list. :>)

Edited by Jay Francis, 27 February 2006 - 07:29 PM.