218 replies to this topic

[Shiewie]

And I haven't even finished going through the categories you listed!

Malaysians love to eat and good places to eat are spread through word of mouth. All the places that I have mentioned are generally quite well-known amongst the KL-lites.

Eating out is also very cheap in Malaysia - RM1 (USD1 = RM3.80) will buy you a nasi lemak / roti chanai for breakfast. Noodles / rice for lunch at a hawker place is about RM3 to RM4 (and these are KL prices, probably cheaper in small towns). It's no wonder that many Malaysians hardly cook (this is evident from the Fried Chillies site where it's all about where to eat and nothing on cooking).

Malaysians are also willing to drive far and wide for a good meal. Some drive for a couple of hours, for example to Ipoh, for a meal and drive back to KL after that.

We used to have an informal "makan" club at work where we'd take turns to find and organise outings to new places to eat every couple of weeks...and eventually set up a Makan Guide. Unfortunately, it's been comatose for a while as some are now on diets, working elsewhere, have new babies to look after or have turned semi-vegetarian. Sigh - the Fried Chillies site has also beaten us to it.

[Pan]

And I haven't even finished going through the categories you listed!

Yeah, I know! Our favorite thing to eat in KT used to be Cili Udang Galah. You probably remember that the udang galah (huge prawns) in those days were the size of small lobsters. I've heard that such big shrimps haven't existed in Malaysian waters for many years now. But if there's any place you know of that has something like that, please tell me. I can't remember the name of the place we used to go to. It was supposedly the 2nd-best Chinese restaurant in KT, but we liked it better than the "best" because the owner was friendlier and the place was unpretentious and consistently excellent. It was on what I guess was the south (away-from-the-river) side of the main street in the part of KT Chinatown closest to the port and Istana (several blocks from the hotel we used to stay at, which was on the divided boulevard), but I forget the name of the street. I hope that the woman and her husband are alive and healthy, and I figure they would now be in their late 50s or early 60s or so (it was a husband-and-wife team, with the wife as proprietress/hostess/waitress and the husband as chef). We liked the red pork there, too.

Ipoh was always known for its good food, so I can understand going there and back for a good meal.

I have to say, the only way I could write about this large a number of places in New York is if I wrote about places I've eaten at, places I've never eaten at but which are well-respected and expensive, and places trusted friends I contacted told me about. Even then, I don't think it would be this extensive. It's starting to look to me like the eGullet Restaurant Guide that Fat Guy talked about at a certain point. (That idea seems dormant, for the most part. Maybe it's worth bringing up again.)

[maukitten]

It's been a while since I've been to Kota Bharu but I still remember the wonderful meals I had at Restoran SYAM (594 Jalan Hospital, Kota Bharu. Tel : 09-748-4713). The cooking style is predominantly Malay with strong Thai influence.

Try the food at the night food stalls at the carpark near the central market. Feast on nasi kerabu (blue-stained rice with fresh local herbs), ayam percik (Kelantanese grilled chicken), som tam (Thai papaya salad) and nasi dagang (unpolished glutinuous rice with tuna curry).

Someone once told me that the nasi kerabu vendors cast a magic spell ("jampi") over the fish sauce ("budu")that goes with the rice to ensure that their customers keep coming back. I don't know whether it is true or not, but I do find myself craving nasi kerabu at the oddest times.

Oh, and I hate to say this, but if your digestive system is not acclimatised yet, don't leave home without the imodium!

[tonkichi]

6) Soon Kee Beef Noodles at the junction of Jalan Bandar and Jalan Silang  (in the area between Chinatown and Little India)
A variety of noodles (a choice of wanton mee noodles, rice-vermicelli, flat rice noodles or “loh-shue fun” (literally translated as mouse-tail noodles!)) topped with minced beef and pork and served with a beef-ball soup (as in meat-balls). (It’s open for lunch and dinner)

The last time I was there, my bowl of loh-shue fan had the bottom half of a very dead lizard. I was really freaked out, initially I thought, what a strange piece of beef tripe!. On top of that, after they were done watching me scream and hyperventillate, the other patrons in the coffee shop continued to eat their noodles with total indifference!

[Shiewie]

The last time I was there, my bowl of loh-shue fan had the bottom half of a very dead lizard. I was really freaked out, initially I thought, what a strange piece of beef tripe!. On top of that, after they were done watching me scream and hyperventillate, the other patrons in the coffee shop continued to eat their noodles with total indifference!

They've renovated the shop recently so hopefully there''ll no longer be any dead lizards dropping from the ceiling into bowls of noodles!

[Shiewie]

Our favorite thing to eat in KT used to be Cili Udang Galah. You probably remember that the udang galah (huge prawns) in those days were the size of small lobsters. I've heard that such big shrimps haven't existed in Malaysian waters for many years now.  But if there's any place you know of that has something like that, please tell me.

I thought they now farm udang galah (tiger prawns) in Malaysia and hence udang galah should be available (don't know whether they're the size of small lobsters though). However, I've heard that the better seafood that's caught off the Terengganu coast is not sold locally, so much so that some restauranteurs there actually come to KL to buy fish! Such irony!

I haven't had any udang galah recently though as I'm not a big fan of huge prawns as I find the meat a bit tough - prefer them medium-sized, steamed with a dash of rice wine and ginger. A memorable udang galah dish I've had in the past was at this eatery called Tokyo in a suburb near the Selayang wholesale market that that we went to as part of our makan club sometime back. It's not in chilli though - it was grilled with hints of Chinese herbs and had caramellised sugar bits. I've only been there once as the other dishes that we had there were fairly average.

Anyway, will ask around and see if anyone knows a place with good Cili Udang Galah.

I have to say, the only way I could write about this large a number of places in New York is if I wrote about places I've eaten at, places I've never eaten at but which are well-respected and expensive, and places trusted friends I contacted told me about. Even then, I don't think it would be this extensive.

Oh dear! Guess this means Malaysians eat a lot and very often. Hmmm - this might explain the slimming centres that are popping up all over the place.

[Shiewie]

Recommended Eateries in Kuala Lumpur

Dim Sum Specialists
1) Xin at Concorde
- what was previously the KL Merlin and they use trolleys here

2) Shang Palace at the Shangri-La KL

3) Li Yen at the Ritz Carlton

4) Dynasty at Renaissance / New World

5) Celestial Court at Sheraton Imperial - halal

6) Lai Poh Heen at Mandarin Oriental - halal

7) Ming Palace at Corus Hotel - halal

8) Tai Thong restaurants - some have trolleys

9) Overseas Restaurant - Central Market
Haven't been in quite a while but they used to have trolleys

10) Shanghai at JW Marriot for Shanghainese-style dim-sum

[Pan]

Do any of you have any views as to which guidebook (or, for that matter, web site) would have the most coverage of economical hotels in Malaysia? I looked at Lonely Planet's paper guide and was very dissatisfied; they seem to have really concentrated on Thailand and given Malaysia short shrift, yet I haven't found a more complete guide yet.

[Shiewie]

Hi Pan

Try these websites for hotels in Malaysia:
http://www.asia-hote...ur-Malaysia.asp - bit more helpful than the others as there's a
customer review section
http://www.asiatrave...m/malaysia.html
http://www.asiatravelmart.com
http://www.marimari....aysia/main.html
http://www.visitorma...tion/index.html
http://www.malaysia-one.com/
http://www.terenggan...97/calendar.htm
http://www.kelantan....modation_bi.htm

I'm likely to be away (in the East Coast) from July 31 to August 3 - call when you get here as plans may change. Should be in town around August 25.

[Shiewie]

Recommended Eateries in Kuala Lumpur
My recommendations are a bit thin for this category...I've only been to the first 3 in the list below.

South Indian Vegetarian
1) Annalakshmi - Ground Floor, Mid Valley Mega Mall (the entrance is outside the mall)
This is probably the most well-known Indian vegetarian restaurant in KL. It's run by volunteers from the Temple of Fine Arts and the proceeds are used to support a free clinic for the poor. There's an a la carte selection as well as a daily buffet for lunch and dinner. The last time I went (sometime last year), they had removed the prices from the menu. Instead, diners make a donation.

2) Karuna's - Grand Paradise Hotel on Jalan Tun Sambanthan, Brickfields
Been here once and it's quite interesting - besides the usual Indian vegetarian dishes, here they use Chinese vegetarian soya products as meat/fish substitutes in non-vegetarian Indian food.

3) Poori and appam stall in Lucky Garden, Bangsar
The poori stall opens in the evenings - the dhall curry is excellent.

4) Madras New Woodlands on Jalan Telawi 5, Bangsar

5) Govinda's on Jalan Bunus Enam, Masjid India
Vegetarian restaurant run by the Hare Krishnas

6) Vegetarian places along Lebuh Ampang
There are several Indian vegetarian places along Lebuh Ampang and the Masjid India area (referred to as the Little India of Kuala Lumpur). A friend says there is a hole-in-the-wall place here that has excellent dosai (generally spelt as thosai in Malaysia) but it's kind of grubby so they usually "bungkus" (take-away) their food.


Besides the South Indian vegetarian eateries, there are also non-vegetarian South Indian places - I'd term these as the banana leaf / fish head curry places - banana leaves are used instead of plates for diners having rice - a little mountain of rice is piled onto the banana leaf, drizzled with chicken or fish curry and served together with the standard condiments of some vegetables, sambar and papadams. Diners choose from a selection of dishes to go with the rice, amongst them fish head curry. Various Indian breads are also available at these places. Would you like any recommendations for these?

[BlueSky]

Hello everybody:
I am new here. New to the board, and new to cooking...
But eating has always been my life-long passion. After all, I am a Chinese born in Thailand. And both Chinese and Thais LOVE to eat.
So I guess that somewhat qualifies me to join this board.

Anyone have info on the Malay-majority part of Thailand? I've been hearing conflicting things about how safe it is to visit (and will it be interesting?).

Hi Pan:

I noted you have expanded your travel plan from the"Southern part of Thailand" to "various parts.... Laos and Cambodia"

Anyway, the Malay-majority part of Thailand are concentrated on the five border cities: Yala, Pattani, Narathiwat, Satoon, and Songkhla. The only place I think you can afford to miss is probably Satoon. (OK, I don't really know Satoon-- that's why...)

I recommend visiting Betong, the border point for Yala, as it is quite a unique place, even for Thai. I would say it is much more Chinese than Malay, though. The Chinese food there is supposed to be one of the best in Thailand. The town's specialty is Stir- fried Watercress. (Puck Naam) I am sure you can find a good Halal place there.

As the road from Betong to the rest of Thailand can be an adventure in itself, you can opt to go back into Malaysia and enter Thailand again at Sungai Kolok, in Narathiwat, and go to Pattani from there. It is reasonably safe if you are careful and use good sense. If you travel alone, be very careful, especially when you cannot speak the language. I would stick to the city and market place, unless you have a certified guide. If you are traveling with a few other people, you might want to consider hiring a driver-guide in Thailand. Converting back into US dollars, it is really reasonable. I once hire a minivan for about $70 per day, all-inclusive. He ate with us, of course, but that also guarantees a good eating place everywhere we go. He could also go in and out of Malaysia, spoke some English, good Malay, and perfect Thai. That took a lot of guesswork out but we can still do whatever we want to do and stay as long as we like.

But if you plan to travel alone, that's fine too. Just be careful not to venture out alone in the dark, or where there are no other people around. The economy hasn't been the best lately, so crime rates have increased a bit.


And here are some recommendations on eating place:

If stopping in Narathiwat, go to the morning market and buy your breakfast there. Yes, it's certainly not the cleanest place in the world, but I never had any problem with the food there when I visit. Pick your breakfast from the variety of Malay and Southern Thai food there. My favorites are

- Poo-Loh: Sweet Sticky rice cooked with brown syrup with grated fresh coconut and fried fish

- Kaaw-Yum: (Literally, mixed salad rice) Blue riced (as someone mentioned earlier) with about 10 kinds of fresh thinly julienned-cut or sliced vegetables & herbs, crumbled pomelo, toasted coconut flakes, dried shredded fish or shrimp. The best part is the dressing - Budu --sweet and salty syrupy fish sauce. Yummy and nutritious. Muesli and Cereals would not even compare.

Another popular breakfast is Chicken noodle soup at the Ritz Hotel. (Not to be confused with Ritz-Carlton. This Ritz is an old guesthouse. hee hee.) Smooth thin noodles in clear aromatic soup. You just can't find it anywhere else. Again, I am not sure whether it is halal, but I have seen some Islamic locals buying them. So it should be OK.

Pattani is another interesting place. I don't remember the name of the restaurants, but everything I had there was good. You might want to stop at the PSU (Prince of Songkhla University), known to the locals as "More Or". The Pattani campus housed the institute of Islamic study, and there should be interesting things to see.

I grew up in Songkhla. My hometown is called Hat Yai, which is the favorite place for Malaysians and Singaporeans. One of the reasons is its variety and quality of food. One of the best known street food is fried chicken. Nothing like the southern fried, or any of the fast-food chains we know. The chicken is marinated, but not battered. The skin is crisp and very brown. This is eaten with sticky rice, crispy fried shallots, and sweet/spicy syrupy sauce. OK... not healthy.... but worth every calorie and cholesterol point. And it is definitely halal. Locals call them Gai-Todd-Islam. (Gai Todd = fried chicken)

OK. I'd better go. This is making me homesick... and hungry. Have a great trip.

[Shiewie]

Hi BlueSky

Welcome to the board! Thanks for the fascinating post.

The Kaaw-Yum you mentioned is very similar to the Nasi Kerabu / Nasi Ulam we get in Malaysia. A difference (but very nice one) is the addition of pomelo in the rice salad - perhaps I'll add some the next time I have Nasi Kerabu.

I've tried a fried chicken with sweet chilli sauce and sticky rice from a street stall in Phuket - it was most addictive. Would this be similar to the ones in Hat Yai?

[BlueSky]

Thanks for the welcome.

Yes, the Gai Todd in Phuket would be the same. And yes, it is kind of addictive.
The world was a lot nicer place when I was young. You could practically eat anything without having to think about how it would affect your health or waistline. :-)

Next time I go home, I'll cross over to KL and try some of the recommendations.

[Pan]

Hi Pan:

I noted you have expanded your travel plan from the"Southern part of Thailand" to "various parts.... Laos and Cambodia" 

That was possible if I were travelling with my brother, but I decided I simply don't have time to travel so far afield from Malaysia on this trip, so it will be strictly Malaysia plus (most likely) southern Thailand.

Thank you for your wonderful post, but one followup question: I'm a New Yorker and regularly walk around Manhattan and take the subway at all hours of the day and night. I also walked all over the place in Paris in the wee hours last summer. Do you think it would be more dangerous for me to be up and about after dark in the parts of southern Thailand you were talking about?

[Pan]

Does anyone have some recommendations for the East Coast from Kuantan on north (especially K. Terengganu, Jerteh/Besut, Kota Baru)? Is Kuantan worth visiting nowadays, from a standpoint of either food or general ambiance?

[Wimpy]

Hi guys-

I have to make a day trip to Ipoh (via Penang) next week (am based in Spore). Will have time for lunch in Ipoh and dinner in Penang. Any suggestions?

Thanks!

[BlueSky]

[/QUOTE]
I'm a New Yorker and regularly walk around Manhattan and take the subway at all hours of the day and night. I also walked all over the place in Paris in the wee hours last summer. Do you think it would be more dangerous for me to be up and about after dark in the parts of southern Thailand you were talking about? [QUOTE]

Hi Pan:

It depends more on whether there are others around. Going out after dark can still be safe if there are people milling about. What I would be real careful about is venturing out to remote places and find yourself being alone.

There are criminals everywhere in the world, and Thailand is not any more dangerous that other countries. However, be mindful that as a non-local, you will stick out. Your physical features might blend in with the locals, but your clothes and manners might still draw attention. So the odds of being singled out by criminals are higher.

I didn't mean to scare you or anyone reading this post about traveling in Thailand. But it certainly is good to exercise extra care. I often travel alone too and like it that way. But I always try not to wander off too far from the crowd. There is certainly safety in numbers.

Have fun!

[Pan]

Thank you very much, BlueSky. Your advice certainly sounds reasonable to me. And no, my physical features won't blend in. I'm a Mat Salleh. (That's a Malay nickname for white people.) But my Jewish nose may make me look similar to an Arab, for good or ill.

[Pan]

Hi, everyone. I'm posting from an internet center on Jalan Bukit Bintang in KL.

I'm staying in Petaling Jaya, but my first post will be about a place in KL's Chinatown, because I think it shows something about Malaysian Chinese cuisine.

I took the LRT tonight to the stop nearest KL's Chinatown (Pasar Seni), walked around what turned out to be the sleepier part of the neighborhood, and decided to eat at a very basic restaurant called Restoran West Lake on Jalan Sultan, a major street in Chinatown. West Lake is lit exclusively with white fluorescent lights, and all the settings are plastic (bowl, chopsticks, spoon, plate). No napkins are provided. First, I was asked if I wanted to eat rice or noodles. "Rice," I said. I requested chili crab from the menu, but the waitress said they were out of it (I did show up kind of late, I guess, at least for that part of the street - 8:40). So I asked what they did have. They had chicken and vegetables, mainly, as I remember. I ordered what turned out to be something they called "Thai Chicken." It was as hot-peppery as the hottest Buffalo Wings at Atomic Wings in New York, but much tastier, and I liked it more and more the longer I ate it. So why do I say that something called "Thai Chicken" shows something about Malaysian Chinese cuisine? Because there's no way you could get something that hot-peppery at anything except perhaps a Sichuan place in New York, and it's certainly the case that I've never had a similar chicken dish in any Chinese restaurant in New York. Nor did it really taste Thai. This is _Malaysian_ food, and damn good, too.

Edited by Pan, 01 August 2003 - 08:07 AM.

[SG-]

look for a ice dried longan beverage stand around the mid point section of the nite market on Petaling street for a refreshing beverage, great break from the heat and humidity. Also look out for stalls selling spicy roasted caramalized squid, excellent snacks.

[Pan]

Thanks, SG-

I've been enjoying the coconut water vendors sell.

I had great satay in PJ last night, but since a friend took me, I have no idea where the place was.

[Shiewie]

Hi Pan

Glad you have been finding your way around KL and PJ.

There is a 'Thai Chicken' dish that I've tried at several Malaysian Chinese eateries where marinated chicken is deep fried and is covered with sweetish chilli sauce and thinly sliced fresh shallots.

Is the Thai Chicken at Restoran West Lake something like this? I haven't been there before so don't know what their version of Thai Chicken is like.

There are quite a few road side eateries along Jalan Sultan that are open till fairly late at night, if you don't mind the grubby surroundings. One of them that I've tried is on the pavement just outside the Swiss Inn. The tables are kind of dark as they are set up along the verandah of the closed shop houses along Jalan Sultan with a few flourescent lights strung across. It opens from 9pm onwards.

[Pan]

Yes, Shiewie, the Thai Chicken fits your description.

Thanks for the other descriptions.

I have a printout of all the advice in this thread which I brought with me, and I've referred to it somewhat but haven't had a chance to post a lot.

[Shiewie]

Hi guys-

I have to make a day trip to Ipoh (via Penang) next week (am based in Spore).  Will have time for lunch in Ipoh and dinner in Penang.  Any suggestions?

Thanks!

Sorry! Didn't see this till it was too late. The place that I usually stop at in Ipoh for lunch if we're going to be in Ipoh for the day or on the way up to Penang is this coffee shop in the old part of Ipoh (they call it Old Town) called "Theen Jun". It's famous for it's Ipoh Sar Hor Fun, creme caramel and the satay which the satay man dumps on your table whether you order it or not.

Oh well, perhaps for another trip.

[Pan]

Shiewie:

I first of all want to thank you and Maukitten for a fabulous feast at Greenlake (is that the right name for the place you took me to that specializes in seafood?).

My plans have changed. I've had a wonderful time visiting with old friends in Kg. Merchang, Terengganu. I'm still there and plan on leaving probably the day after tomorrow. I figure I'll have time to spend a couple of days in Kota Baru but probably insufficient time to go to southern Thailand and do much there, so I'm thinking instead of going across to Ipoh for a couple of days before I go back to KL (though I have to check bus schedules for timings). My parents will be staying in Terengganu for some time to come, though. So my updated requests are:

Chinese and Indian restaurants in Kuala Terengganu

Any worthwhile eateries anyone wants to mention in Kota Baru and Ipoh.

I've had a wonderful time in Malaysia, and the food has been excellent in Terengganu and much more consistently good than it was in 1975-77, when Chinese food in the cities was marvelous but Malay food in the kampung was spotty.

[Shiewie]

Shiewie:

I first of all want to thank you and Maukitten for a fabulous feast at Greenlake (is that the right name for the place you took me to that specializes in seafood?).

It's Greenview.

So my updated requests are:

Chinese and Indian restaurants in Kuala Terengganu

Kuala Terengganu Indian Eateries
I've never been to an Indian restaurant in Kuala Teregganu as we're usually there for Chinese New Year or Cheng Meng (All Souls Day)... so it's generally Chinese food during the visits apart from nasi dagang, roti paung and kuih for breakfast and keropok lekor for snacks. Anyway, here is a list of Indian Muslim restaurants from a couple of Malaysian tourism sites - Site 1 Site 2

• Afzal Restoran - 27, Jalan Sultan Mahmud Batu Buruk, Kuala Terengganu Tel : +609-623 2913
  
  
• Restoran Sharah Tanduri - Jalan Air Jernih, Kuala Terengganu
  
  
• Restoran Shalimar - 1F Jalan Air Jernih, Kuala Terengganu Tel: +609-623 7777
  
  
• Restoran Kari Asha - 1H Jalan Jalan Air Jernih, Kuala Terengganu
  
  
• Restoran Arilang - 467 Jalan Besar, Paka Tel: +609-827 2369
  
  
• Sri Shamugan Restoran-59B Jalan Tok Lam, Kuala Terengganu

Kuala Terengganu Chinese Eateries
The Chinese restaurant I remember best (or rather it's the only one I really remember) in Kuala Terengganu is Golden Dragon Restaurant at 198 Jalan Bandar in Chinatown. Have been there since we were kids and my dad / uncles would just ask them to prepare whatever they think is good.

For the more listings on Chinese restaurants in KT, I'm afraid that I'll have to cut and paste from the Malaysian tourism sites again as I don't remember the places:

• Wah Chai Kedai Makan - 162, Jalan Bandar, Kuala Terengganu Tel: +609-622 2162
  
  
• Goodluck Seafood Restaurant - 11Y, Jalan Kota Lama, Kuala Terengganu Tel: +609-622 7573
  
  
• Restoran Chuan Kee - 11U, Jalan Kota Lama, Kuala Terengganu Tel: +609-623 3757
  
  
• Everday Restoran - 11J , Jalan Engku Sar, Kuala Terengganu, Terengganu Darul Iman. Tel: +609-622 1395
  
  
• Tian Kee Restoran - 136/2, Jalan Sultan Zainal Abidin, Kuala Terengganu Tel: +609-622 4375
  
  
• Restoran Ocean - Lot 2679, Jalan Sultan Zainal Abidin, Kuala Terengganu Tel: +609-623 9154
  
  
• Restoran KT Wok-1081W, Jalan Sultan Sulaiman, Kuala Terengganu (Hey ! Think these lists on the tourism sites are not updated - we used to go to this place as well on our annual visits but think it's been closed for at least 3 years)
  
  
• Restoran New Rose Garden - Jalan Air Jernih, Kuala Terengganu
  
  
• Restoran Saujana Seafood - 169-S, Jalan Sultan Zainal Abidin, Kuala Terengganu
  
  
• Ho Weng Fatt Restaurant - Jalan Engku Sar, Kuala Terengganu Tel: +609-623 9854
  
  
• Ng Gok Soon Restaurant - Jalan Engku Sar, Kuala Terengganu
  
  
• Ng Say Hock Restaurant - Jalan Engku Sar, Kuala Terengganu
  
  
• Phang Lee Men Restaurant - Jalan Air Jernih, Kuala Terengganu

If you're in KT in the morning, try the kuih in the shop opposite Golden Dragon or at any of the coffeeshops in Chinatown - the kuih on the East Coast is slightly different from what we get in the West Coast.

Any worthwhile eateries anyone wants to mention in Kota Baru and Ipoh.

Kota Bahru
Will extract the list from the Flavours food mag guide for Kota Bahru later today.

Ipoh
We usually stop-over for lunch at this coffee-shop in the old part of town (Jalan Bandar Timah, Ipoh Old Town). It's called Theen Jun/Thean Chun/Tin Jun (don't remember how it's spelt, just translating from the Cantonese pronunciation) and is famed for it's Ipoh Sar Hor Fun (flat rice noodles in a rich prawn and chicken stock with slices of prawns, chicken and chives). There'a also a satay man who dumps a plate of satay on your table whether you want it or not - he'll come and count how many sticks you've eaten once you've finished your meal. The creme caramel is pretty good too.

The list below is from a Malaysian food review site on geocities (the KL recommendations are generally places that are pretty good so I think the Ipoh ones should be fairly reliable...it's also got Thean Chun listed)

• Restoran Tuck Kee - Jalan Yau Tet Shin, Ipoh. Braised hor fun, fried hor fun (dry type), braised chicken feet and bean sprouts. Open for dinner from 7pm.
  
• Kedai Kopi Kong Heng - Jalan Bandar Timah (previously Leech Street), Ipoh Old Town. It's next to Thean Chun - have never tried it since we end up at Thean Chun each time we are in Ipoh. Ipoh sar hor fun, rojak, duck noodles. Open for breakfast and lunch.
  
• Wong Koh Kee Restaurant - 3 Panglima Lane, Ipoh Tel: +605 241-9474
  (in the alley opposite Kedai Kopi Thean Chun). Braised fish head, steamed eggs, fried watercress, double boiled soup. Open for lunch only.
  
• Restoran Wong (Tauge Ayam) - Jalan Yau Tet Shin, Ipoh. Steamed chicken, bean sprouts, rice and flat rice noodles. Open for dinner from 6.30pm
  
• Restoran Onn Kee (Tauge Ayam) - Jalan Yau Tet Shin, Ipoh. Similar food to that at Restoran Wong. Open for dinner only
  
• Sticky rice and soy sauce duck - Jalan Yau Tet Shin, Ipoh (opposite Wong and Onn Kee). Open for lunch and dinner.
  
• F.M.S. Bar & Restaurant - 2, Jalan Sultan Idris Shah, Ipoh Tel: +605-253-7678. Open for lunch and dinner
  
• Kedai Kopi Nam Heong - Jalan Bukit Timah, Ipoh (opposite Kong Heng) - known for their frothy White Coffee
  
• Foh San - 2 Jalan Dato Tahwil Azar (formerly Jalan Osborne) 30300 Ipoh Tel: +605-2540308. Dim Sum (They have a branch in PJ which is mediocre but it seems the original in Ipoh is loads better)

[Shiewie]

Kota Baru Eateries
- extracted from Flavours Kelantan Good Food Guide (May - June 2003)

Malay Food

[*] Restoran Arafah Seafood Garden
256 Jalan Kebun Sultan (intersection with Jalan Wakat Mek Zainab). Tel:+609 7443 8900. Opens Thu-Sat 11am-4pm and 6pm-11pm; Friday 3-11pm.
Malay food with a touch of Thai. Siakap Goreng Arafah, fried chicken with cashews, Kheng Som Siakap (hot and spicy Thai soup with bamboo shoots and herbs)

[*] Restoran Cikgu
Under Kampung Kraftangan (opposite Istana Baru). Tel: +6019-946 6665. Opens 7.30am-6pm. Closes Fridays
Specialises in freshwater fish such as catfish and Patin. Catfish is usually deep-fried and Patin cooked asam pedas-style.

[*]Hover Restaurant (pork-free)
1963-A, Jalan Dato Pati. Tel: +609-748 1439. Opens for lunch only until about 3.30pm. Closes on Fridays
Drawcard of this Chinese owned restaurant is the Malay rice seller whose specialty is nasi Sumatera.

[*]Zakini Nasi Kukus
437 Berek 12 Jalan Abdul Kadir Adabi. Tel: +609-743 9428. Opens 12pm-11pm daily.
Nasi Kukus (steamed rice) with an array of dishes and ulam (Malay salads)

[*]Sate Jawa Tulin (halal)
109 Sek 25 Jultan Sultan Yahya Petra Opens 6pm-6am. Tel: +6013-963 6884.
Dinner and all night supper place. The Javanese satay sauce is slightly sweeter than the usual satay sauce

[*]Mak Su Nab Nasi Air
Berek 12 Jalan Adul Kadir Adabi. Opens daily.
Nasi air, a Kelatanese specialty where cooked rice is served in a clear chicken broth with chicken pieces. The glutinous rice desserts, pulut durian and pulut pisang (banana) are also recommended.

[*] Nasi Daging / Ayam Bakar
Located beside the former Lido Cinema, Jalan Post Office Lama. Opens for lunch daily except Friday.
Malay warung that sells roast beef and chicken with rice. Also recommended are the sup ekor (oxtail soup) and sup kambing (mutton soup)

[*] Restoran Syam
594-N Berek 12 Jalan Abdul Kadir Adabi. Tel: +609-748 4713/747 2045. Opens 11am-3.30pm, 5.30pm-8.30pm.
Otak-Otak (spicy seafood souffle) and spicy fried crabs.

[*]Roses Cafe (in the New Pacific Hotel)
Seksyen 26 Jalan Pengkalan Chepa (intersection with Jalan Dusun Muda). Tel: +609-735 1111.
Daily buffet lunch at RM30 (USD7.50).

[*]Capital Cafe (Chinese-run, pork-free Malay fare)
234 Jalan Post Office Lama (beside Padang Merdeka). Opens 7am to noon. No fixed rest day.
Nasi berlauk - a traditional Kelantanese breakfast of rice with meat or fish especially the nasi lauk daging (beef). Also the place for nasi dagang which is double-steamed.

Indian Food

[*]Restoran Nasi Kandar Istimewa (halal)
4086-C Jalan Sultan Yahya Petra. Tel: +609-747 1012. Opens 7am-2am daily, rice served from 9am onwards.
A taste of Penang in Kota Bahru. Besides rice, tandoori, capati, roti canai and mee goreng are seved from 5pm onwards.

[*]Sri Dewi (pork-free)
4213F Jalan Kebun Sultan (opposite Chinese Chamber of Commerce).
Banana-leaf Indian rice in Kota Baru.

[*]Meena Curry House (pork-free)
3377-C, Jalan Gajah Mati. Tel: +609 609 741 0173. Opens 10.30am-9.30pm daily.

[*]Neelawathy Indian Rice (pork-free)
380 Jalan Tengku Maharani (behind Kencana Inn). Tel: +609-744 6202. Opens daily from 11am-11pm.

Thai Food

[*]Chiengmai Thai Food Restaurant (non-halal)
Lot 107 Kampung Kulim, Wakaf Bharu. Tel: +609-718 1546. Opens 6pm to midnight. Closes during major Chinese and Thai festivals.
The most popular Thai restaurant in Kota Baru, it is is Tumpat district, across the river from Kota Baru, about 6km from town. Speicalties are Volcano Chicken (roast chicken served on a bed of flames ignited with brandy), jellyfish kerabu (Thai style jellyfish salad), roast prok trotters, kangkung rapuh (crispy deep-fried kangkung smothered in a sweet-sour Thai style sauce), fire-ant (kerengga) eggs and spicy-stir-fried eel.

[*] Ying Restaurant
4933-B Jalan Wakaf Mek Zainab. Tel: +6019-981 1563.
Memorable spicy stir-fried eel.

Chinese Food

[*]Choo Choon Huay Restaurant (non-halal)
149 Jalan Post Office Lama. Tel: +609-748 1720 /4063.
Popular place for wedding feasts. Signature dish of pig trotters with dumplings.

[*]D'Prosperous (halal)
123 Jalan Che Su. Tel: +609-743 0523. Opens 11.30am-2.30pm, 6.30pm-10pm
Located in Crystal Lodge Hotel. Set dinner for 3 costs RM38. Specialties include Siamese fried fish, garlic prawns, Hong Kong beancurd in crabmeat sauce and black-pepper stir-fried venison.

[*]Dynasty Restaurant (halal)
Renaissance Hotel, Jalan Sultan Yahya Petra. Tel: +609-746 2233. Opens 12.30-2.30pm, 6.30-10.30pm.
Eat-all-you-can dim sum promotion for about RM20 per person.

[*]The Fame Kopitiam (aka Golden City, non-halal)
3950-G Jalan Padang Garong. Tel: +609-743 9372.
Noodles with trotters, curry mee, fried stuffed beancurd, Indonesian curry fish with rice.

[*]Four Seasons Restaurants (halal)
5670 B2/3 Jalan Dusun Raja. Tel: +609-734 6666/7399. Opens noon-2.3-pm, 6-10pm.
Popular for wedding dinners. Specialties include O Chien (fried oyster omelette), asam Siakap (seabass cooked asam style), home-made fish balls, fried kampung (free-range) chicken, steamboat (hot-pot), special fishhead tomyam in taro soup and butter prawns. Teochew porridge with stewed duck is served for late breakfast and lunch.

[*]Restoran Kam Pan (non-halal)
4211-H Jalan Kebun Sultan. Tel: +6012-383 8058. Opens 5.30am-11.30am daily.
Congee (Cantonese style) breakfast place. Specialises in Ikan Haruan (snakehead fish) porridge and meehoon (rice vermicelli).

[*]How Kee Noodles
2818-G Jalan Che Su. Tel: +609-748 5884. Opens Mon-Sat from 10am-4pm.
Char-siew and wonton noodles.

[*]Lim Hin Seafood (non-halal)
Jalan Pengekalan Chepa (at the junction with Jalan Dusun Muda, opposite New Pacific Hotel). Tel: +609-747 6000. Opens 5pm-1am.

[*]Mui Kee Yong Tau Foo (non-halal)
Jalan Wakaf Mek Zainab. Tel: +6019-966 5919. Closes alternate Sundays.

[*]Wang Court Restaurant (non-halal)
5640 NM Seksyen 27, Jalan Sri Cemerlang

Hainanese Coffee Shop Fare

[*]Ann Loke Cafe (pork-free)
1183-C Jalan Ismail. Tel: +609-744 4586. Opens 9am-4pm. Closes on public holidays.
Chicken rice with steamed chicken, deep-fried chicken or chicken braised in soy sauce.

[*]Kedai Kopi White House (pork-free)
1329-L Jalan Sultanah Zainab. Tel: +609-748 4119. Opens 8am-1.30pm, 9pm-1am. Rest days are not fixed, advaisable to call first.
A Kota Baru institution, known as the "Coliseum" of Kota Baru. Perfectly done half-boiled eggs and charcoal toasted bread with butter and kaya (coconut jam). Fairly good local coffee. Breakfast and supper place.

[*]STR Family Restaurant (halal)
782-A Jalan Temenggong. Tel: +609-746 2225. Opens 11am to 10.30pm. Closes on alternate Wednesdays.
Local fare - chilli fish, nasi goreng belacan (fried rice with shrimp paste), Hainanese chicken chop, black pepper steak, tom yam and Air Batu Campur (ABC - a local dessert of sweetened boiled red beans, cream corn, shredded agar-agar, soaked basil seeds covered with shavewd ice and topped with rose syrup, evaporated milk and a scoop of ice-cream).

[*]Sun Hwa (pork-free)
1183-I Jalan Ismal. Tel: +609-748 2279. Closes on public holidays.
Mee goreng, tom yam, chicken chop, fish chop, steak and fish & chips.

[Pan]

Thank you as always, Shiewie.

My folks went to Golden Dragon the other day and brought back some food for me. The stuff they got was OK but nothing special to me. Did they order wrong? I had a fried fish that tasted like a normal Malay ikan goreng, a cucumber dish with dried shrimp that was pretty good, and a soothing chicken soup with that white rhizome I keep forgetting the name of - soothing, but not something amazingly delectable like the cili udang galah we used to have at a restaurant that used to be near there (actually, we thought it might have been on the same site).

[Pan]

I went to Golden Dragon today with my parents, and I took Shiewie's suggestion of asking them to give me what they like best. They gave me some soothing food that was good for my stomach, which was upset earlier in the day. I had mixed vegetables (including tofu skin) with little dried shrimps, which was nice, and a pork and lotus root soup, which again was very soothing. I think the place is good if accepted for what it seems to be: A place to get simple, homey (hamish, in Yiddish or New York English, which amounts to the same thing) food.

My parents and I wonder whether the location is the same as the place where we used to get hacked pork and cili udang galah in the 70s. It may be. I spoke with the proprietress, whose looks reminded me of the proprietress in those days. She said that her mother was indeed the proprietress of the restaurant and is still living, and that she will tell her mother about us. Her father, the cook, is dead. But if it's the same place, in those days, they didn't use steam trays, and the food was better.

[Pan]

I'm so happy to be in Kota Bharu now! I'm staying a hotel right across the street from the Pasar Malam (Night Market) and just went to Yati and got Ayam Percik (chicken roasted with coconut milk and various spices), which came with rice, shredded coconut, a delicious blend of herbs, and sauce. With some Te O Ais (iced tea with sugar but no condensed milk), it was a great meal. I then walked around the pasar and, at one booth, got some quail eggs (which really aren't much different from chicken eggs, though smaller), and at another, got a wood-baked cake with beans. A banana murtabak (a sort of crepe-like thing) from yet another booth is waiting in a bag.