#61
Posted 07 June 2005 - 07:32 AM
Also, that ties in: kabu harvested from under fleece tasted excellent, although I have no un-fleeced crop to compare it with. Daikon in the open was harvested & tasted excellent, although a few hole-borers were present; I have a crop under fleece due to be harvested in a few weeks & will try and detect differences (if any).
Has any scientific work been done to establish exactly what the plant is doing and what substances are being produced?
#62
Posted 22 June 2005 - 01:33 PM
My Camellia sinesis are getting bigger and fast!
The tallest one (furthest to the left) is just over 12-inches tall, the slightly shorter one (right) is 9-inches tall.
Also some seeds i picked up from various Camellia plants in Japan are growing too! (small one in the front with slightly different shape and more shiny leaves)

I have soybeans now! I planted 3 batches at delayed time intervals so i could have an incremental crop... the oldest ones are now over 2-feet tall and have some developing soybeans!

I have Kabocha growing now too! This crazy vine is growing all over the back yard and since they started growing, the adjacent Shiso havent grown much....
The largest Kabocha is now almost 5-inches in diameter

The second largest is about 3.5-inches diameter

The third largest is about 1-inch in diameter.

There are also several ones smaller than this last one.
Finally, my Yuzu seedlings are growing well too. The tallest on has reached almost 12-inches in height.

My question about the Yuzu tree....this is just grown from seeds. (I also have Key Lime and Kaffir Lime seedlings about the height of the shorter Yuzu seedlings). Since these are grown from seed and are not grafted to a root stock, will they not grow as tall? Will they be weaker? Will they not be able to produce as much fruit? Should I give them more special care to ensure a long life and good fruit production from them (pruning frequently, etc..)??? Any advice?
#63
Posted 22 June 2005 - 02:02 PM
How long did it take for the soybeans and kabocha to get to that point? I've thought of growing some and would like to once I have the chance. Especially kabocha. That sounds so good!
#64
Posted 23 June 2005 - 02:28 AM
How long did it take for the soybeans and kabocha to get to that point? I've thought of growing some and would like to once I have the chance. Especially kabocha. That sounds so good!
The soybean package says it takes about 100 days to get mature soybeans. As for the kabocha, Im not sure how old the plant is, MIL thinks its less then a month old.
#65
Posted 23 June 2005 - 05:16 AM
#66
Posted 23 June 2005 - 06:44 AM
#67
Posted 23 June 2005 - 07:37 AM
That sounds easy enough. The only seeds I have found available to me are Takinogawa and Watanabe. Since the Watanabe is supposed to be shorter, I may give it a try. My soil has a layer of hardpan about 2 feet down and I'm not about to try to dig through it but it seems that the bag method would work.I haven't done it myself, but my students tell me that they have grown burdock in plastic bags, or more conveniently, plastic garbage bins. They said they used ordinary soil, but I imagine they put some fairly free-draining stuff down the bottom, especially as the burdock would take a while to extend its root right down to the bottom part of the container. If you pick a short-growing cultivar, it will be easier to grow, and will mature faster too.
#68
Posted 17 July 2005 - 03:20 AM
My first set of Soybeans have matured!!

On the down-side, those 3 kabochas I mentioned earlier.... The plant caught some bad powdery mildew and kind of died out.... I picked these anyways, but I dont know yet if they were mature enough yet.... Ill let them sit around for awhile before I cut them up.

I have no idea why one seems to be an albino
#69
Posted 17 July 2005 - 04:13 AM
Garden Update!!!
My first set of Soybeans have matured!!![]()
![]()
On the down-side, those 3 kabochas I mentioned earlier.... The plant caught some bad powdery mildew and kind of died out.... I picked these anyways, but I dont know yet if they were mature enough yet.... Ill let them sit around for awhile before I cut them up.
I have no idea why one seems to be an albino
Oooh!!!! I'm impressed!!! I've temporarily given up on my lanai gardening... I've been too busy working to spend the time to garden, and I swear my husband must be giving the plants the evil eye (whenever he's around them, they wither and die)!
Last year I grew a nice crop of regular and Thai basil, rosemary, thyme, nasturtiums, and some māche lettuce (well, enough for one salad). Now, everything has died out but the rosemary and a chunk of ginger I planted but have yet to harvest. The shiso I tried last year never germinated...
I'm hoping *some day* to have some fine shiso plants, a small Kaffir lime, and more basil. You started your Kaffir lime from seeds? Where did you get them?
"She sells shiso by the seashore."
My eGullet Foodblog: A Tropical Christmas in the Suburbs
#70
Posted 17 July 2005 - 08:42 AM
those edamame look especially gorgeous
Kristin Wagner, aka "torakris"
Manager, Membership
kwagner@egstaff.org
#71
Posted 17 July 2005 - 11:08 PM
I'm hoping *some day* to have some fine shiso plants, a small Kaffir lime, and more basil. You started your Kaffir lime from seeds? Where did you get them?
I got all my citrus seeds (yuzu, kaffir lime, key lime) from the same place:
http://www.tradewind...t.com/order.htm
I had a really high germination rate...maybe it was even 100%? So far one Kaffir lime has died and one looks sickly, though the other ones look fine. The only thing about growing citrus from seed is, I dunno if they will be able to get very big or how healthy they will be later on, since most citrus grown commercially are grafted to a much stronger root stock.
#72
Posted 17 July 2005 - 11:25 PM
Bookmarked! I thought we're not allowed to mail seeds from the mainland to Hawaii... or does that just apply to individuals (not commerical nurseries)?I got all my citrus seeds (yuzu, kaffir lime, key lime) from the same place:
http://www.tradewind...t.com/order.htm
I had a really high germination rate...maybe it was even 100%? So far one Kaffir lime has died and one looks sickly, though the other ones look fine. The only thing about growing citrus from seed is, I dunno if they will be able to get very big or how healthy they will be later on, since most citrus grown commercially are grafted to a much stronger root stock.
"She sells shiso by the seashore."
My eGullet Foodblog: A Tropical Christmas in the Suburbs
#73
Posted 08 August 2005 - 01:45 AM
Bookmarked! I thought we're not allowed to mail seeds from the mainland to Hawaii... or does that just apply to individuals (not commerical nurseries)?I got all my citrus seeds (yuzu, kaffir lime, key lime) from the same place:
http://www.tradewind...t.com/order.htm
I had a really high germination rate...maybe it was even 100%? So far one Kaffir lime has died and one looks sickly, though the other ones look fine. The only thing about growing citrus from seed is, I dunno if they will be able to get very big or how healthy they will be later on, since most citrus grown commercially are grafted to a much stronger root stock.
I dont know why we wouldnt be able to mail seeds? Seeds are much less likely to be containing rotten things like coqui frogs, bugs, lizards, etc. Probably you cant mail any live plants to Hawaii unless you are a nursery.
#74
Posted 22 January 2006 - 02:20 PM
My yard is quite small and the neighbors use part of it for their garden bed, so I'd likely have to grow things in containers. I have a balcony that's probably at least 80% shade and probably a little piece of sunny backyard - I'll have to observe the sun patterns next time I'm home all day.
I was thinking of buying the tsukemono pickling garden from Kitazawa Seed, as well as some red and green shiso. The vegetables included are pickling melon?, takana mustard, oblong eggplant, cucumber, daikon, turnip, and cabbage.
I haven't done any gardening in a long, long time and fear I might be totally inept. I hope to enlist my father's assistance - he's got quite a green thumb, and recently lost his job of 30+ years, so I hope it will give him something else to think about.
I plan to grow the shiso in containers in as sunny a spot as I can find. Perhaps if I use "window boxes" hanging from the edge of the roofed balcony, they will get enough sun? I think everything will have to go in containers, though. I've never had good luck growing tomatoes in containers, so hopefully these veggies will fare better.
#75
Posted 22 January 2006 - 05:16 PM
I've had great success with eggplant in containers - being smaller than western varieties, it matures before diseases and bugs get a hold, very rewarding!
The takana and daikon I would be inclined to leave till a fall sowing, as they will be just dying to flower and set seed if you sow them in spring...but if you sow the takana fairly early, you could probably get a crop before summer.
Check GardenWeb (Asian vegetables) too, for more specific advice for gardening in your particular area.
#76
Posted 22 January 2006 - 05:52 PM
I've been poking through GardenWeb and feeling slightly overwhelmed, but I did get a couple of recommendations for books to look into. I'll let you all know how the experiments go.
#77
Posted 22 January 2006 - 07:07 PM
Thanks.
#78
Posted 22 January 2006 - 07:58 PM
The straight osmanthus fragrans is a less-fragrant WHITE flowered variety.
Apparently they don't set seed and must be cultivated from cuttings...at least, I saw that glancing through a book in a shop, didn't read the whole chapter to find out exactly what the situation was.
#79
Posted 22 January 2006 - 09:51 PM
osmanthus fragrans var. aurantiacus
The straight osmanthus fragrans is a less-fragrant WHITE flowered variety.
Apparently they don't set seed and must be cultivated from cuttings...at least, I saw that glancing through a book in a shop, didn't read the whole chapter to find out exactly what the situation was.
Thank you.
#80
Posted 08 June 2006 - 05:49 AM
How poisonous is tomatin, which is contained in tomato leaves and stems? Some Japanese people eat "wakime" of tomato plants, and I assume that eating them in small quantities does not do any harm to the people eating them. Am I right, Helen?
#81
Posted 08 June 2006 - 06:34 AM
"" Toxic Part: Leaves, vines, and sprouts.
Symptoms: Headache, stomach pain, vomiting,
diarrhea, subnormal temperature,
and circulatory and respiratory
depression.""
Tomatine may not be the only alkaloid produced in tomato shoots - I'm not sure. I assume that people are hoping that the axillary shoots contain less alkaloids than mature stems and leaves...but it seems risky. After all, alkaloid contents are notoriously variable (depending on things such as the time of day, for example); and some people are more susceptible than others, especially children.
Alkaloids tend to act on the central nervous system, which is not a good idea! If you're lucky, they'll make you vomit, if not, they just stop your heart and breathing...
However, I ate several nightshade berries when I was a toddler, before kindly offering my mother some, and I lived to tell the tale. Very likely a few very immature tomato shoots won't kill you, but I don't care to experiment!
#83
Posted 13 June 2006 - 05:53 AM
Sansho: I was thinking...probably the main reason why it is hard to grow is that it is a slow-growing tree, and we are inclined to over-harvest it. I read somewhere that you should not pick from it yourself the first year, and not give any to friends for 3 years! As far as the plant is concerned, if we pick the leaves the way we pick parsley, it's like using 10,000 notes like paper tissues.
#84
Posted 16 June 2006 - 02:28 PM
Large (1 mb+) picture at Sansho germinated outside
#85
Posted 16 June 2006 - 04:38 PM
#86
Posted 17 June 2006 - 05:38 PM
Companion plants are translated into kyouei sakumotsu 共栄作物. Now I need to learn more about them!Robinjw13, I did a little googling of the Japanese terms most commonly used for companion planting, but found nothing of interest to you.
Apart from re-runs of English material on companion plants old roses, there doesn't seem to be a good understanding of what we know as companion planting.
One Japanese term used is so close to the word "symbiosis" that readers think of it as just another word for environmentally friendly agriculture which doesn't damage natural earth structure or disturb local insects etc.
Alternatively, the other word used is "mixed cropping", which only refers to planting crops with different growth heights/sunlight needs/growth periods.
I googled the various terms for each of your proposed crops, with terms for germination etc., and found no mention of plants which actively protect or promote the growth of other nearby plants.
As far as germination goes, I think the interest in natural agricultural circles here in Japan is focused more on microbe activity than on the effect of nearby plants.
#87
Posted 18 June 2006 - 01:19 PM
Kyouei sakumotsu. I'll add it to my list of about 20 Japanese words! Since that 2005 post I've visted some natural agriculture farms in Japan and saw a little that confirms Helenjp's comments. A common combination seems to be winter wheat followed by edamame/daizu; one farmer said this mix left no need for fertilser nor fallow period. The total length of the roots of one wheat plant is apparently several thousand kilometres! A very fine mesh of roots that is very good for the soil.
#88
Posted 04 May 2007 - 09:59 PM
#89
Posted 04 May 2007 - 11:14 PM
If you can buy seedlings, Japanese eggplant would be a good thing to try. Unless you have a very long growing season, it would be a bit late to start them from seed now.
How about eda-mame - soybeans grown for eating while the pods are green, like green peas?
#90
Posted 26 May 2007 - 08:29 PM
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