Jump to content
  • Welcome to the eG Forums, a service of the eGullet Society for Culinary Arts & Letters. The Society is a 501(c)3 not-for-profit organization dedicated to the advancement of the culinary arts. These advertising-free forums are provided free of charge through donations from Society members. Anyone may read the forums, but to post you must create an account.

FrogPrincesse

What Are You Cooking Sous Vide Today? (Part 3)

Recommended Posts

Host's note: this delicious topic is continued from What Are You Cooking Sous Vide Today? (Part 2)

 

 

Duck breast, 57C for 90 min, pre and post sous-vide sear.

 

Sous vide duck breast : 57C for 90 min

 

 

Sous vide duck breast : 57C for 90 min

 

Sous vide duck breast : 57C for 90 min

 

 

So the texture was not significantly different from what I get with my usual technique, which is grilling over charcoal. But it's more uniformly pink, and there are no slightly overdone spots. I am pleased with the results even though searing in the house means a ton of smoke and duck fat everywhere!  :) (I did it on the stove in a cast iron skillet, next time I will place the skillet in the oven)


Edited by Smithy Added host's note (log)
  • Like 14

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

More than a like - that looks outstanding.

 

You could do your searing outside and eliminate the smoke / fat inside by using the cast iron on the grill.

 

 

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I've got 4 bone in short ribs in the bath at 132.5.  Doing a 72 hr cook for Sunday.   Smoked them at very low temp for an hour this morning, bagged and gave them a quick dip in boiling water before heading into the bath 

 

 

image.jpeg

  • Like 7

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

More sous-vide confit chicken. 8 hours @ 74C. I've become a big fan!

 

The second example was with sous vide braised green cabbage, 4 hours @ 83C. That one was ok but not nearly as succulent as a traditional braise (I love Molly Steven's braised cabbage recipe); it was a bit crunchy still, and less flavorful (it would a bunch of aromatics to become interesting). So this won't be a repeat, unlike the confit chicken.

 

Sous-vide confit chicken

 

Sous vide confit chicken with sous vide braised green cabbage

 

 

  • Like 7

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I find the contributor of the sous vide cabbage recipe is most definitely NOT someone I rely on. I wonder how well she tests her recipes. I have made a couple of hers and definitely the food was not cooked through.  And judging from the comments that appear on some recipes I'm not alone.  

  • Like 3

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Just now, Anna N said:

I find the contributor of the sous vide cabbage recipe is most definitely NOT someone I rely on. I wonder how well she tests her recipes. I have made a couple of hers and definitely the food was not cooked through.  And judging from the comments that appear on some recipes I'm not alone.  

Good to know! Thank you. :)

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Here comes the egg. I wanted a poached egg texture and went with 15 min @ 75C. The result was a fabulous egg yolk, very custardy, a bit runny still, pretty much perfect in my book. However a good part of the white hadn't had a chance to set at that temperature, and what was set wasn't very set. I will probably play a bit with sous vide eggs but I've never been a fan of the texture of the white with that technique.

 

I have an extra egg that I cooked at the same time, so I will be curious to see if I like the texture better after it's reheated.

 

Tender greens with sous vide poached egg

 

 

Tender greens with sous vide poached egg

 

  • Like 3

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

We tried a variation on the Anova recipe for eggplant parmesan yesterday for dinner. We were not impressed.

 

The eggplant was a PITA to cook sous vide, because it's terrifically buoyant. The recipe specified single-layer packing, which I did. I sliced the large eggplant specified in the recipe a quarter-inch thick on our Oxo mandoline, salted and then rinsed and dried the slices, and packed and sealed them. That took four big bags plus a small one. And by the time I did all that, I couldn't fit it all into the larger of the two water bath containers we usually use (a 12-quart square cambro-like container that we got at the restaurant supply store, with one lid that we cut an Anova-shaped hole in and a second lid that we kept intact. I had to hunt down the shallower large rectangle bath that we use with the homemade SV rig constructed by my husband from a PID controller, three immersion heaters, a mechanical stirrer propeller, and an electric motor salvaged from lab. But then that container isn't tall enough to clamp the Anova to; I had to set the cambro-like container right next to it, to use as an Anova stand. Wonder if it would be possible to rig an old-fashioned ring stand and either a clamp or an iron ring to hold an Anova?

 

And there really wasn't much of a savings, because after all that (or even if we hadn't had to go through the rigamarole of changing water baths and sinking the eggplant bags), you STILL needed to coat and fry the eggplant slices, construct the parm (we used some fresh campari tomato halves and some mozzarella sticks, and broil (or, in our case, bake long enough to make the frozen cheese sticks nice and oozy).

 

Next time, we'll just go back to our previous kludge of buying the frozen breaded eggplant slices from Trader Joe's. So much easier and neater!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
1 hour ago, MelissaH said:

We tried a variation on the Anova recipe for eggplant parmesan yesterday for dinner. We were not impressed.

 

The eggplant was a PITA to cook sous vide, because it's terrifically buoyant. The recipe specified single-layer packing, which I did. I sliced the large eggplant specified in the recipe a quarter-inch thick on our Oxo mandoline, salted and then rinsed and dried the slices, and packed and sealed them. That took four big bags plus a small one. And by the time I did all that, I couldn't fit it all into the larger of the two water bath containers we usually use (a 12-quart square cambro-like container that we got at the restaurant supply store, with one lid that we cut an Anova-shaped hole in and a second lid that we kept intact. I had to hunt down the shallower large rectangle bath that we use with the homemade SV rig constructed by my husband from a PID controller, three immersion heaters, a mechanical stirrer propeller, and an electric motor salvaged from lab. But then that container isn't tall enough to clamp the Anova to; I had to set the cambro-like container right next to it, to use as an Anova stand. Wonder if it would be possible to rig an old-fashioned ring stand and either a clamp or an iron ring to hold an Anova?

 

And there really wasn't much of a savings, because after all that (or even if we hadn't had to go through the rigamarole of changing water baths and sinking the eggplant bags), you STILL needed to coat and fry the eggplant slices, construct the parm (we used some fresh campari tomato halves and some mozzarella sticks, and broil (or, in our case, bake long enough to make the frozen cheese sticks nice and oozy).

 

Next time, we'll just go back to our previous kludge of buying the frozen breaded eggplant slices from Trader Joe's. So much easier and neater!

 I think it does such a disservice to Sous Vide cooking when people propose ridiculous uses for it. It's a matter for some people of having a hammer and then everything looks like a nail.  I want to tell them that just because you can doesn't mean you should.

  • Like 3

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Does anybody have experience with sous vide pickles? Are they as nice & crunchy as the video suggests? :)

I was going to make a batch of pickled celery the traditional way, but I am thinking sous vide now...

 

 

https://www.chefsteps.com/activities/make-crisp-flavor-packed-pickles-on-the-quick


Edited by FrogPrincesse (log)
  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
38 minutes ago, Anna N said:

 I think it does such a disservice to Sous Vide cooking when people propose ridiculous uses for it. It's a matter for some people of having a hammer and then everything looks like a nail.  I want to tell them that just because you can doesn't mean you should.

We wanted to try it to be sure we weren't missing something. As it turned out, we definitely weren't.

 

My role was complete after the eggplant was prepped and packed. My husband took care of everything from there on out, and he commented that the recipe seemed to have other problems with the way it was written. (This made the professional editor part of me absolutely cringe.)

 

So...is SV eggplant always a bad idea? Or just in this case, and the SV miso eggplant recipe (from a different author) might be OK?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
1 hour ago, MelissaH said:

We wanted to try it to be sure we weren't missing something. As it turned out, we definitely weren't.

 

My role was complete after the eggplant was prepped and packed. My husband took care of everything from there on out, and he commented that the recipe seemed to have other problems with the way it was written. (This made the professional editor part of me absolutely cringe.)

 

So...is SV eggplant always a bad idea? Or just in this case, and the SV miso eggplant recipe (from a different author) might be OK?

 Eggplant cooked anyway is a bad idea in my opinion!  I still just can't imagine that it is a vegetable that lends itself to Sous Vide to bring out its best characteristics.  But as you can imagine I am no expert on eggplant.xD

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
18 hours ago, Anna N said:

...just because you can doesn't mean you should.

 

I've said on many occasions that if anyone is left to pronounce an elegy over our current culture/civilization, that will be it. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

 A lovely looking Magret duck breast that some very sneaky friend slipped into my refrigerator when I was not looking. 

  • Like 3

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I think sous vide is finally pretty mainstream. I was at a business dinner the other night. The culotte steak many of us got (from a mini menu designed for the group of about 25) was perfectly MR right to the edge. Two guys at the table said that it had to be sous vided. Two more agreed. So at a table of about 15,  at least 5 of us were using it.

 

How 'bout that!

  • Like 5

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Pickled celery with mustard seeds (& clove, peppercorn), 60C for 150 minutes, using the brine from Babbo. Very crunchy!

 

Pickled celery using the sous vide

 

  • Like 3

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

 A very tiny remnant of a pork loin roast (<500g).   Going to give it 2 hours at 58°C.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Did anybody notice Tom Colicchio criticizing the use of sous-vide as a technique to cook pork tenderloin on Top Chef recently (with Sean Brock approving)? He claimed it gave the appearance of medium rare but drew the juices out. I am not a big fan of pork tenderloin personally, but I was surprised as this technique seems very popular here on eGullet for this cut of meat!

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I not only noticed that, I tweeted to a few modernist chef's about it for comment. 

Will be interesting to see if anyone responds. 

I personally think that both Collichio and Sean Brock are just traditionalist and predisposed to dislike the IDEA of SV. 

 

There's no reason why, if done CORRECTLY, pork loin is going to be "drier" cooked SV 

 

it sounds a bit like buying the long disproved 'searing locks in juices' meme. 

 

 

Ps I love Husk.  It's just not the ONLY way to cook. 

I like Ink just as much. 

 

 


Edited by weedy (log)
  • Like 3

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I was surprised by that as well, @FrogPrincesse.  Particularly the part about drawing the juices out.  Seems rather the reverse to me, sous vide really helps produce a moist tenderloin.  

  • Like 3

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

  • Similar Content

    • By ElsieD
      I got an e-mail this morning about the Modernist team's next project - pizza! 
       
      Modernist Pizza is Underway!
      After taking on the world of bread, we’re thrilled to announce the topic of our next book: pizza. Modernist Pizza will explore the science, history, equipment, technology, and people that have made pizza so beloved.

      Authors Nathan Myhrvold and Francisco Migoya, with the Modernist Cuisine team, are currently at work conducting extensive research and testing long-held pizza-making beliefs; this quest for knowledge has already taken them to cities across the United States, Italy, and beyond. The result of their work will be a multivolume cookbook that includes both traditional and innovative recipes for pizzas found around the globe along with techniques that will help you make pizza the way you like it.

      Modernist Pizza is in its early stages, and although we’ve begun to dig in, we still have a lot of work ahead of us. Although we can’t guarantee when it will arrive at your door just yet, we can promise that this book will deliver the complete story of pizza as it’s never been told before.

      In the meantime, we would love to hear from you as we continue to research pizza from around the world. Contact pizza@modernistcuisine.com to tell us about your favorite pizzerias and their pizza. Connect with us on social media to get all the latest Modernist Pizza updates.
    • By Tempranillo
      I have been tasked with putting together a team for a new kosher barbecue event in Arizona, happening sometime later this year. The event was supposed to be in mid-April, but the venue decided to cancel. The organizers are busy looking for a new venue, and have assured us that this will happen.
       
      Many details for the event are not quite settled yet, so, I am trying to prepare for all sorts of contingencies beyond the usual concerns about putting out good food. What is known is that we will be following the KCBS kosher rules. As far as I can tell, there were 10-12 such events held last year across the US. So, it's a pretty small world. I don't think there's a kosher championship ladder like the other barbecue events have, either. I think it's a good time to get in, get practice and see where it takes me.
       
      Now, I've been reading and watching videos online with all sorts of info on smoking/cooking for competitions. I have watched some of the TV shows, and one documentary. It's been kind of a mixed bag in terms of usefulness. No one has posted much about kosher barbecue, so I am making changes to recipes and procedures and running a lot of tests. I currently have access to my home kitchen which is small but adequate, the stove is electric and unremarkable and about 7 years old. It does maintain temperature well, and can be set to run anywhere from 140°F to 550°F.  I also have access to an outdoor kitchen at a friend's place, with a relatively large charcoal type grill. At most of the kosher barbecue events the event organizers provide smokers/grills plus meats and many ingredients to ensure that everything is truly kosher. If needed, my team sponsor is prepared to purchase a grill/smoker which I will need to research once I know I will need it.
       
      I should note that I am not Jewish and did not grow up around any kosher households, so I am also studying some of the finer points about running a kosher kitchen and learning about kosher ingredients. Modern competition barbecue is an odd mix of modernist techniques and ingredients, right alongside ordinary-folk foods like margarine, and bottled sauces.
       
      For reference, the 4 categories for kosher events are: Chicken, Beef Ribs, Turkey, and Beef Brisket -to be served in that order.
       
      So far, I have been running smokeless tests on chicken and beef ribs. Mostly learning to trim the chicken thighs (what a nightmare!) and seeing what happens at certain temperatures and times. I know things will be different with real smoking happening, but I want to see some baseline results so that I know what to strive for. I do have a bunch of thermometers, and have got some basic ideas about writing a competition timeline.
       
      The chicken perplexes me in several ways. First, some of the competition cooks recommend boning while others recommend bone-in. Second, I see some folks injecting and brining, while others maybe do a quick half hour marinade, and even others are full-on modernist with citric acid under the skin, etc. Third, the braise vs non- braise chicken where some people load up their pan with a pound of butter, margarine or a couple cups of chicken stock while others do not. Fourth, The bite-through skin is driving me insane. Some people swear by transglutaminase to reattach the skin for a better bite. Catch is, only some types are kosher, and I can see having issues explaining it. I have tested an egg white egg wash which seems to attach the skin pretty well without showing. I think I need to go for longer times to get more tender skin. Today I did a pan (with olive oil) of six as follows: one hour at 220°, one hour under foil at 230°, then glazed and 20 minutes on a rack at 350°. It was only partly bite-though and the taste-testers wanted more crispiness. I tried showing them pictures and explained that it wasn't ever going to be crispy, that we're looking to go even softer. I am going to run tests on longer cook periods and see how it goes.
       
      I want to ask people about the whole swimming in margarine thing which is in voque right now. people claim it makes the chicken juicy. I know that meat is mostly all about temperatures. I can see how the margarine acts like duck fat in a confit and helps prevent some oven-drying after hours and hours in the oven, but, in the end, isn't it just an insulator?
       
      I've been making corned beef and other brisket dishes for over 20 years, so, I think I have a good handle on that. I will practice it in a couple of weeks. I simply don't need as much help on this item.
       
      The turkey scares me. On TV, I see people dunking it in butter before serving it. This obviously is not kosher, and I don't want to do it with margarine I don't want to present anything in a competition made with margarine, there has to be something better! -Either cook the bird better or find a better dip, like maybe a flavorful nut oil or a sauce. That said, unlike ribs or brisket, it is not traditional to dunk turkey in a sauce.  I went with some friends to a chain place called Dickies to do a little research and their turkey breast was odd and kind of hammy. Not like Virginia ham, more like ham lunchmeat. It was very moist and unlike any turkey I have ever eaten. Ok, I admit to not being very fond of turkey, so my experiences with it have been a bit limited. I am assuming it was brined. Given the limited amount of time we will have (about a day and a half) to cook, I am planning on just cooking the breast. Other than that, I am open to suggestions. The internet has been least informative on the topic of turkey. People's videos and such just show rubbing the whole bird and letting it roast for a few hours. Any tips at all would be appreciated.
       
      Whew! Thanks for reading all of this, I look forward to any advice you can give.
    • By flippant
      I've had the CSO for a number of years now, but have yet to actually bake bread in it.
       
      Reading through the Modernist Bread thread on this forum I see many of you are using the CSO to great effect, which is heartening.
       
      To that end, I would like to know about your experience baking bread in it – what sort of extra equipment you use (pans, cast iron? etc), what breads work the best, any corrections you find yourself making, or anything you feel might be useful to someone else using the CSO.
       
      Thank you!
       
       
    • By Rho
       
      The space race trickled into kitchens in the 60s and 70s, including one curious tool that's faded away in the years since: the thermal pin, a heat pipe skewer that can halve cooking times for roasts:

       
      Heat pipes are thermal superconductors, transferring heat 500-1000 times more effectively than solid copper (some people in the sous vide thread have discussed copper pins). They're hollow tubes with the air evacuated and a small amount of working fluid, often water. The usable temperature range is limited by the triple point and the critical point, with additional constraints near the edges. Water is effective from 20C-280C /70F-530F, which comfortably spans most cooking temperatures.
       
      Modernist Bread has an excellent section on how bread bakes, including a diagram of the internal heat pipes that develop, summarized here. (click for a good photo!)
       
      Sous-vide solves the overcooking side of the gradient problem, but it's still limited by total heat diffusion time-- doubling the size of a cut quadruples the time needed for the center to reach temperature. Heat pipe pins should make larger cuts practical, or normal cuts cook faster. Here's a graph from "The heat pipe and its potential for enhancing the cooking and cooling of meat joints", showing average temperatures over time for 1kg joints of meat convection baked at 190C/375F for 110 minutes (foil removed for the last 30 minutes):

       
      Thermal pins were sold commercially from 1956 to about 1990. They're listed occasionally for about $20 on ebay. They even made potato baking racks with heat pipes-- though now you can easily par-cook a potato in the microwave and finish it in the oven.
       
      I don't know why production of thermal pins stopped, or what fundamental problems limited their usage. It seems like pans and commercial griddles would be improved by adding heat pipes to spread heat throughout and avoid hot or cold spots. Perhaps roasts fell out of favor as the culture of entertaining shifted away from monolithic centerpieces to smaller, more precisely cooked portions.
    • By philie
      Hey there, i hope to find some help in the wise hands of yours. after some research i am still having some problems concerning glazing:
       
      For a party i would like to make some cubes and rounded savoury cakes and foams out of silicone forms that have a ready bottom and a colour glazing. 
      Somehow i just do not manage to find a steady glazing ( one that does not run ) and is for texture reasons preferably hard or crisp that does not include sugar or syrup.
       
      can you help me or lead my way in a certain direction?
       
      thanks very much!
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.

×