eG Cook-Off 74: Holiday Roasts

[David Ross]

I've had this source for "FLÆSKESTEG" (Danish Pork Roast) for some time now.  I've not had great reception from local butchers providing me with the cut of pork, skin and rind on, so I can further cut and score it myself, so this may be a good online source.

https://www.nordichouse.com/detail.aspx?ID=105

[Anna N]

14 minutes ago, David Ross said:

I've had this source for "FLÆSKESTEG" (Danish Pork Roast) for some time now.  I've not had great reception from local butchers providing me with the cut of pork, skin and rind on, so I can further cut and score it myself, so this may be a good online source.

https://www.nordichouse.com/detail.aspx?ID=105

 I can tell you that when my husband was alive we searched high and low for this cut of pork with skin and rind on.  We eventually found a butcher who said he could provide it and it would be from a heritage pig.  And so it was. There was so much fat and so little meat that we did not even attempt to cook it as a roast. Perhaps one of the most expensive mistakes in terms of food that we ever made.   Years earlier my Danish brother-in-law and his wife visited and were in fact able to get this very roast and they cooked it for us and it was out of this world. I do wish you much luck because there is not a finer example of a roast  beast in the whole world in my opinion.  

[Kerry Beal]

6 hours ago, Anna N said:

 I can tell you that when my husband was alive we searched high and low for this cut of pork with skin and rind on.  We eventually found a butcher who said he could provide it and it would be from a heritage pig.  And so it was. There was so much fat and so little meat that we did not even attempt to cook it as a roast. Perhaps one of the most expensive mistakes in terms of food that we ever made.   Years earlier my Danish brother-in-law and his wife visited and were in fact able to get this very roast and they cooked it for us and it was out of this world. I do wish you much luck because there is not a finer example of a roast  beast in the whole world in my opinion.  

So it's a skin on boneless loin?

 

[Anna N]

3 hours ago, Kerry Beal said:

So it's a skin on boneless loin?

 

Yep. 

[MelissaH]

This sounds, to me, like an argument to buy a portion of an animal (or a whole animal) and request a custom butchering job.

[chefmd]

Chefsteps has a tutorial on making prime rib sous vide.  It made me insanely hungry just looking at it.  One thing I did not understand, they separate ribs from the meat, then tie it all back together, only serving the meat later.  In any case, it looks gorgeous so it may be for presentation...

 

https://www.chefsteps.com/activities/win-the-holidays-with-herb-crusted-sous-vide-prime-rib-rib-roast?utm_source=ChefSteps&utm_campaign=49a9994209-prime_rib_test&utm_medium=email&utm_term=0_a61ebdcaa6-49a9994209-120030809&mc_cid=49a9994209&mc_eid=ce58ca5ced

[quiet1]

35 minutes ago, chefmd said:

Chefsteps has a tutorial on making prime rib sous vide.  It made me insanely hungry just looking at it.  One thing I did not understand, they separate ribs from the meat, then tie it all back together, only serving the meat later.  In any case, it looks gorgeous so it may be for presentation...

 

https://www.chefsteps.com/activities/win-the-holidays-with-herb-crusted-sous-vide-prime-rib-rib-roast?utm_source=ChefSteps&utm_campaign=49a9994209-prime_rib_test&utm_medium=email&utm_term=0_a61ebdcaa6-49a9994209-120030809&mc_cid=49a9994209&mc_eid=ce58ca5ced

 

I'm not sure I like SV for prime rib - in the photos the fat hasn't really had a chance to get to that melting sort of buttery stage that you get with a normal roasting method, it looks like? Plus it doesn't look like the searing and herb crust method really builds up the same sort of meaty crust you get from roasting. But prime rib is also not a cut I've had trouble with, historically, getting to a good temp without being overdone. For me it isn't one of those 'blink and you miss your chance' preparations, so I feel less like SV would help me with timing?

 

I am now contemplating SV beef tenderloin, though. My mom just mentioned that as a possibility for Christmas and that is a cut where I feel it is less forgiving in terms of getting the timing right for temperature. I'm feeling vaguely inspired towards some sort of British roast dinner type thing, with Yorkshire pudding and roast potatoes and Brussels sprouts, plus some sort of Wellington-inspired mushroom dish for added richness...

[Soupcon]

Taking the meat off the bone and then tying the bones back on to the rolled (or not) rib eye/strip loin makes it easier 1) to brown and roast the meat as the ribs act as a platform to elevate the loin/rib eye off the bottom of the pan where it would get over done and then 2) to separate the meat from the bone after resting and carving with no bones in the way.

Personally I like to slow roast a standing rib roast of beef (boned and rolled and tied back on the bones) in a 150*F oven  to 120*F internal temp and then let it rest while I finish the rest of the sides (or transport it to another location as I have done while keeping it warm). Then I put the meat in a very hot oven or on the big green egg to sear the outside before carving and serving.

Edited December 6, 2016 by Soupcon
change of wording (log)

[David Ross]

Speaking of a Holiday Prime Rib Roast, here's a photo from my collection of vintage cooking booklets.  This one is from Arden Farms, which was a large dairy company in California.  Typically these booklets were put in grocers and butcher shops and were sponsored by all sorts of companies.  Many of them don't have dates, but from the photos I can usually target the date a booklet was published.  In this case I'd say the late 30's or 40's.

 

While today this roast would shock folks with the amount of fat, it's the kind of roast I remember my Grandmother and Great Aunt serving in the 60's on their cattle ranches in Central Oregon.  I would die for that roast this holiday season.

 

[rotuts]

@David Ross  

 

Quite  Literarily  

 

but with a Big Smile on your Face !

[chromedome]

The picture does look a lot like the color plates in my 1940's vintage American Woman's Cookbook.

[David Ross]

The Holiday Roasts in these vintage booklets and cookbooks are mighty impressive.

[David Ross]

A few weeks back I found this wonderful small leg of lamb in the freezer section of a local market.  Now mind you, most home cooks avoid this store as it's a "discount" 24-hour grocery store.  The prices are incredibly low, especially given the fact you bag your own stuff.  But I don't turn my nose up and pass this place by.  They have some incredibly good products, like smelt and frogs legs, that I can't find anywhere else locally.  I threw out the tag, but I believe this 4 1/2 pound leg of lamb was merely $2.99 a pound.  It's the perfect size for a party of 4.

 

It's from New Zealand yet with French on the label as it found it's way from New Zealand to French Canada down to Spokane. 

 

No fancy prep other than a rub of olive oil, salt, pepper.  I "frenched" the end of the bone and wrapped it in foil.  It just makes a nicer presentation at service.

 

Then in a 325 oven for about 25 minutes per lb. for medium-rare.  I raised the oven temp to 375 for the last 25 minutes.  Then rest for about 15 minutes.

 

Of course, the sides are what makes our Holiday Roasts delicious.  I used some of the cranberry-huckleberry compote that I had served with the Thanksgiving turkey.  It's a blend of cranberries, huckleberries, sugar, orange peel and Cointreau cooked down until it's thick.  I've never tried it, but I suppose you could substitute currants or blueberries for the huckleberries.

 

My standard red wine sauce is incredibly easy.  2 tbsp. of honey, cooked down with 1 diced shallot, 1 chopped garlic clove, rosemary, thyme and bay leaf, 2 1/2 cups hearty red wine, 1/2 cup beef stock.  Reduce by 1/2, then strain.  I add in about a tablespoon of butter and whisk in some Wondra flour to thicken.  Then strain again and serve.

 

I'm not a big fan of Brussels Sprouts, but after watching the current season of MasterChef UK the Professionals on BBC, I've been intrigued by the "blistering" technique the Brit Chefs have been using.  I blanched the tiny fellows in salted water for about 3 minutes.  Then dried on a towel and into a hot cast iron pan.  No oil in the pan, no salt or pepper.  They start to "blister" or rather, caramelize, and they turn out a bit sweet yet with the bitter flavor I've known from the Brussels sprouts Mother cooked.

 

Now I started the day before with testing this potato tarte tatin as a side dish to the lamb-

 

And while it looks delicious, it needs just a bit more work.  I sliced Russets then soaked in water to release some of the starch.  Then dried on towels and layered in a cast iron pan.  Then butter in the pan, (as you do for apple tarte tatin), then layer the potatoes to the edge of the pan.  Then into the oven at 375 for about 1 1/2 hours.  Then invent, and voila, just like an apple tarte tatin sans the sugar.  I just need to do some more work as the top layer of potatoes was crisp and golden, yet chewy in texture.

 

So I turned to a new recipe, a delicious parsnip puree, which, I think, it perfect for a Holiday roast.  It's got a clean flavor yet not so starchy and filling as potatoes.  Just 1 lb. of parsnips, peeled and cut into dice.  Then 2 cloves garlic, smashed, 1/2 cup heavy cream, 2/3 cup milk, 2 tbsp. butter, salt, pepper, nutmeg, thyme sprigs and a bay leaf.  Bring to a boil, then simmer till the parsnips are tender, about 30 minutes.  Take out the thyme and bay leaf, then chuck it into a blender or food processor and pulse into a puree. 

 

So here we have a leg of lamb, parsnip puree, cranberry-huckleberry compote, red wine sauce and blistered Brussels sprouts-

[David Ross]

Tonight the leftover leg of lamb goes into a pot pie.

 

[gulfporter]

I've done the full-sized standard beef wellingtons in the past.  I also made individual chicken wellingtons (chicken pate' and standard mushroom duxelles) and the individual ones were easier, faster and quite nice looking and tasting.

 

For Christmas, I've decided on individual lamb wellingtons (just us two this year).  I plan to remove the tenderloin off of a lamb rack, then cut in half for each of the 2 servings.

 

Trying to decide what to put in with the lamb, whether to go traditional or do something more interesting.

 

 

[chromedome]

@David Ross The presence of French on the label doesn't necessarily mean the lamb went through a Francophone part of the country. Food sold in Canada has labels in both official languages, by default. 

[David Ross]

25 minutes ago, gulfporter said:

I've done the full-sized standard beef wellingtons in the past.  I also made individual chicken wellingtons (chicken pate' and standard mushroom duxelles) and the individual ones were easier, faster and quite nice looking and tasting.

 

For Christmas, I've decided on individual lamb wellingtons (just us two this year).  I plan to remove the tenderloin off of a lamb rack, then cut in half for each of the 2 servings.

 

Trying to decide what to put in with the lamb, whether to go traditional or do something more interesting.

 

 

I have a question about the wellington.  I saw a cooking competition where the Chefs were marked down if they didn't wrap the meat and duxelles with a thin crepe, then the puff pastry.  They explained that if you don't have the crepe layer the puff pastry won't rise properly.  Is that true?

[gulfporter]

17 minutes ago, David Ross said:

I have a question about the wellington.  I saw a cooking competition where the Chefs were marked down if they didn't wrap the meat and duxelles with a thin crepe, then the puff pastry.  They explained that if you don't have the crepe layer the puff pastry won't rise properly.  Is that true?

 

Well, mark me down, too.  I've never heard of using a crepe and have had excellent results without it.  I use store-bought frozen puff pastry and my only "trick" when using puff is to always well chill the dish before putting it into a really hot oven (that's what I think gives the best puffiness).  

 

 

[David Ross]

I found an old newspaper clipping Amon my Mother's recipes for a salt-crusted beef roast. I don't remember she ever made it but I do remember it was a Holiday favorite that The Oregonian reprinted every year. Anyone ever done it?

[Smithy]

15 hours ago, David Ross said:

I found an old newspaper clipping Amon my Mother's recipes for a salt-crusted beef roast. I don't remember she ever made it but I do remember it was a Holiday favorite that The Oregonian reprinted every year. Anyone ever done it?

 

Funny, I'd forgotten all about that approach.  I did it a few times, inspired by excellent meals at Lawry's Prime Rib Restaurant back in my L.A. days. The salt collects the juices and turns into a hard crust that seasons the exterior of the meat.  It probably also affects the heat propagation through the roast. I remember it being delicious.  I'm not sure it would be any better than my current approach of seasoning the exterior, searing it and then cooking the roast at high heat until the interior is 110 or so:

 

 

What does the Oregonian article say about the salt crust, the method and its benefits?  I might try that again for a comparison.

 

 

[David Ross]

They say in the article that in addition to prime rib, their method worked well for top round and eye of round roasts and all came out very juicy.  Readers reported that they actually added salt at the table, debunking their thoughts ahead of time that the salt crust would make the roast too salty.

 

They start by marinating the roast in a mixture of-

1/3 cup olive oil

1/4 cup grated onion

1 tsp garlic salt

1 tsp dried basil

1/2 tsp dried marjoram

1/2 tsp dried thyme

1/4 tsp pepper

Boneless beef roast 4-6 lbs.

1 3lb box Kosher salt

1 1/4c water

 

Marinate the roast in a large bag overnight.  The next day, line a roasting pan with foil.  Combine the salt and water to make a thick paste.  Insert a meat thermometer.  (Before putting in the oven).

 

Roast in a 425 oven for 16-18 min per pound for rare (140 degrees), 20-22 min per pound for medium (160).  Let roast sit in crust for 10 min in salt crust after removing from oven.  Use a hammer to break the crust and slice.

 

Funny how so many of the old recipes call medium-rare at 140 degrees, which, in my experience would lean your roast more toward the definite medium range.  I happen to go to about 132 for medium-rare.

 

 

 

[Shelby]

Ronnie came home from Sam's with a 4-5 lb. prime rib.  I've been begging for it.  No one around here seems to sell them except for around Christmas time.  If you are lucky enough to find one, it's one that has already been mostly cooked  which is so stupid IMO.  They are already way too done for my liking.  Anyway, I'm trying to decide when and how to make it.  Thinking of saving it for NYE.  I've always done them in the oven, but this year I could sous vide it.....   It's such a treat and I don't want to screw it up.

[Smithy]

@Shelby, we've never had trouble finding that size prime rib at (a) a butcher's willing to cut one for us or (b) the meat section of a good grocery store, again willing to cut it if necessary.  Have you asked?  

 

I agree that a pre-cooked prime rib, unless it's from a good smokehouse , is a travesty.

[David Ross]

I am fortunate to have one market in Spokane that sells tallow.  Now they have done a good job in crafting a contemporary logo and calling the product "Pure Tallow" followed by a small graphic of a cow.  But of course we all know it simply as "Beef Tallow."  It's a great product and it can be used as is or even mixed with some of the drippings from the Holiday Roast.  I actually just melt a few large spoons of the stuff and then roast potatoes, even when I'm not cooking a roast and I don't have natural pan drippings.  I'll be using it in the coming days with a new varietal of WA roasting potatoes I found.

 

[btbyrd]

My best friend was looking extra hopeful as I Frenched up my rib roast.

 

 

I'm doing the ChefSteps recipe... pre-sear, SV @ 136F, blast in the oven with an herb crust.