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David Ross

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  1. For years I've been doing a salmon dish from Larry Forgione's American Place cookbook. The recipe, "Grilled Salmon with Pumpkin Seed Vinaigrette and Briased Kale" is classic American in style. What first intrigued me was the vinaigrette using toasted pepitas, (which I had never heard of up to that point), pumpkin puree and tomato. The pepitas add a toasted, herbal and sort of woodsy flavor to the vinaigrette. It pairs really well with salmon, keeping it moist and flavorful. The vinagrette also works with poultry and wild game. The salmon can be grilled, on the stovetop or on your bbq, broiled or using a Pacific Northwest technique. I use cedar or alder planks to give the salmon a hint of smoke. The planks work in either the oven or the outdoor grill. I used to serve this only in the Fall, apparently I thought at the time pumpkin dishes were only served late Fall through the holiday season. But this is, of course, a dish to serve year round. Vinaigrette- 1 cup green pumpkin seeds (pepitas, found at DeLeon foods or bulk food section at market) ½ cup canned pumpkin puree 3 cloves garlic, minced 1 tsp. turmeric 1 Roma tomato, seeded and cut into small dice ½ cup apple cider vinegar ¾ cup olive oil Salt and fresh ground black pepper Salmon- 4, 6-80oz. salmon filets 2 tsp. mustard powder Salt and fresh ground black pepper 2 tbsp. butter 2 tbsp. olive oil 2 tbsp. butter 2 tbsp. olive oil 1 head of Swiss chard, (or Kale or Mustard Greens), chopped 1). Make the vinaigrette. Heat the oven to 350. Spread the green pumpkin seeds on a baking sheet lined with foil. Toast in the oven just until the pumpkin seeds start to brown. Remove from the oven and let cool. Heat a skillet over medium heat and add ½ cup of the toasted pumpkin seeds. (Reserve the other ½ cup of pumpkin seeds as a garnish). Add the pumpkin puree, garlic, turmeric, tomato and apple cider vinegar. Stir the mixture and then turn the heat down to low while the salmon cooks. Just before service, bring the heat back to medium and stir in the olive oil. 2). To make the salmon, heat the oven to 400. Sprinkle the salmon filets with the mustard powder and season with salt and pepper. Heat a skillet over medium-high heat and add the 2 tbsp. of butter and olive oil. Add the salmon filets and cook on each side, about 3-4 minutes to sear in the juices. Transfer the skillet to the oven and roast the salmon for another 4-5 minutes or until the salmon is firm to the touch and done. 3). While the salmon roasts, make the greens. Heat the remaining 2 tbsp. of butter and olive oil in a skillet over medium-high heat. Add the Swiss chard and stir-fry until the greens are wilted. Add a few tablespoons of water if need be to quicken the cooking. 4). To serve, place some of the greens in the center of a plate. Top the greens with one of the salmon filets, then drizzle the pumpkin seed vinaigrette over the salmon and around the plate. Garnish the salmon with more of the toasted pumpkin seeds.
  2. I was scrolling through our eG Cook-Off Index looking for ideas for some dishes I might want to plan on making this summer. Well, needless to say there are literally hundreds of topics, ingredients and dishes to choose from--and boy is it fun to look through it all. I haven't cooked with squid, calamari or octopus recently, but now I have a taste for it after seeing these recipes. I think I might start with one of the dishes I did for this particular cook-off, Baby Octopus in Spicy Tomato Broth. This should start the summer cooking season off right! https://forums.egullet.org/topic/144640-cook-off-62-squid-calamari-and-octopus/ And you can scroll through the full eG Cook-Off index here: https://forums.egullet.org/topic/143994-egullet-recipe-cook-off-index/
  3. I must say that's just about the funniest food related cartoon I've ever seen!
  4. David Ross

    Breakfast 2019

    Delicious and thanks. Your photography always draws us on just how delicious the food and breads are.
  5. Delicious and you reminded me I need to plant lovage in the garden.
  6. This is my recipe for rhubarb chutney. Although I serve it with lamb and turkey, I can squeeze it into this discussion about daily sweets because it's delicious to go on any sweetbread that you make. It's also good to serve as a topping for pie. Think of a spiced, thick jam. Rhubarb Chutney- 2 cups chopped rhubarb 1/2 cup granulated sugar 1/2 cup brown sugar 1/3 cup apple cider vinegar 1/3 cup finely chopped onion 1/4 cup golden raisins 1 tbsp. currants 1 tbsp. minced fresh ginger 1/4 tsp. ground cumin 1/4 tsp. cinnamon 1/8 tsp. ground cloves 1/8 tsp. red pepper flakes 1/4 tsp. salt Heat a large saucepot over medium-high heat and add the sugar, brown sugar and apple cider vinegar. Stir and cook until the mixture starts to simmer. Add the onions, raisins, currants, ginger and spices. Stir the chutney as it cooks, about 15-20 minutes. The chutney will start to thicken and the rhubarb will cook down. Add water if the chutney is too thick. Season the chutney with salt and let cool. When the chutney is cool, place in a container and cover and refrigerate. The chutney will go two weeks in the fridge or can be frozen. Here is a cropped photo of the rhubarb chutney. I'll post the full photo, with lamb and asparagus, over in the dinner thread.
  7. I'm not sure how long they can go but it's long. When I was a teenager I went to work for an older lady who had a small horse farm east of Salem, Oregon where we lived. It was set on a hill and there was a long white picket fence running on the north side. The weather isn't overly harsh there and the fence row got sun all day and wasn't protected from rain by trees. She had some rhubarb plants along the fence row and one of my jobs was to cut it for her every spring. Huge stalks of bright red rhubarb. I think it was there before she moved in and she lived there about 10 years and it was still there. I think one of her secrets was to fertilize it with horse manure which gave it plenty of nutrients to keep going on.
  8. Other than my family members who are of my generation, my friends and younger family members shake their head this time of year whenever I start talking about how delicicous rhubarb is. Of course, then I ask them if they've ever actually tasted rhubarb and they're somewhat evasive. I think rhubarb is one of those things that has lovers and detractors without a lot of middle ground. At best sometimes we'll be at a family gathering and people may take a bite out of a store-bought rhubarb-strawberry pie, but that's only if it's got strawberries blended in to temper the rhubarb flavor. I love rhubarb and have since I was a kid and my folks grew it in the back garden. Father didn't do much to it and it came back bigger every year. This is my annual rhubarb pot pie. It's basically a rhubarb pie mixture in a ramekin and topped with puff pastry. Served with vanilla ice cream and the little crock to the right holdss rhubarb chutney. I make the chutney this time of year and freeze most of it so it's ready to serve with Thanksgiving turkey in November. After filling the ramekin with the rhubarb filling, I top it with store-bought puff pastry. Then brush the top with egg wash, cut a hole in the middle to vent during baking, and sprinkle with some demera sugar. Had one last night and another one for breakfast this morning! Rhubarb Pot Pie filling- 6 cups chopped fresh rhubarb 1 cup granulated sugar 1/2 tsp. cinnamon 1/4 tsp. nutmeg 3 tbsp. flour 6 tbsp. butter, cut into small chunks I blanch the rhubarb for 2 minutes in boiling water to soften, then drain. Mix the rhubarb with the sugar, cinnamon, nutmeg, flour and butter then spoon into ramekins. Top with puff pastry, brush with egg wash and sprinkle with demera sugar. Bake in a 425 oven about 20 minutes or until golden brown and puffed.
  9. Well, I'm not much of an actual bread baker, but I figure that I can post something made from bread. The crouton. I don't think homemade croutons get attention. I've been making them for years to go with my Caesar salad. But about a year ago I started using a new technique. Rather than cut the croutons into cubes, I tear them from a loaf of bakery French bread. This is intentional so the surface of the crouton soaks up the garlic butter olive oil blend I douse the croutons with. They are so darn tasty that often they're gone before there is time to garnish the salad. I just start with bakery French bread then tear it into small croutons. The garlic butter is 1/2 cup butter, 1/2 cup olive oil and 6 cloves crush garlic, cooked down to melt the butter. The croutons are toasted first for about 10 minutes in 350 oven to just start to brown. Then I drizzle over some of the garlic butter, back into the oven for another 10 minutes until golden brown. Then into a large bowl and tossed with more garlic butter and seasoned with salt and cracked black pepper. I'm sure all of you use your delicious breads to make croutons, and maybe someday I can get to the point of not having to buy bread to make my croutons.
  10. That's actually a good price and at this point in the season a few weeks in what we are paying around Seattle and Spokane. Side note, I remember they took us to shop for ingredients at Bristol Farms back in 2001 when I was competing on MasterChef USA and we were filming in Los Angeles.
  11. I love poached salmon. This is a delicious dish.
  12. Well, I'm glad I looked in my eGullet archives and found some salmon dishes I forgot about. This was a post from March 2010: "Last night I did the cover recipe from the April 2010 issue of Bon Appetit--Salmon with Sweet Chili Glaze with Sugar Snap Peas and Greens. The recipe calls for using pea tendrils for the greens but we don't have a market where I can find them so I substituted watercress. I included the stems of the watercress for texture and added some oyster mushrooms to the mix." https://forums.egullet.org/topic/143505-dinner-2010/?do=findComment&comment=1736543
  13. True. My Mother was a typical 1950's housewife and there was a big push by Reynolds Aluminum to advertise the convenience of "grilling" with foods in packets in the early suburb days. She and Father also put packets of potatoes and vegetables wrapped in foil on the bbq. Delicious, but basically vegetables steamed in foil. Thankfully grilling tech is offering us so many more tools today to grill salmon, vegetables, anything, that results in good grilling flavor.
  14. What are your thoughts on wrapping salmon in foil on the bbq? I grew up in Salem in the Willamette Valley or Oregon, about 90 minutes from the coast. Every summer we would have fresh salmon and Father would grill it on the bbq. We bought whole sides of salmon and he'd season it, add some lemon slices, (similar to the photo), then wrap the whole thing in foil. It was a pretty popular technique back in the 60's and 70's, but even back then I thought it seemed odd. The salmon was delicious and moist, but to me it's just basically steamed in foil. I happen to prefer salmon openly grilled so that the skin gets charred yet the meat stays moist. Some people use the foil as a support for the salmon so it doesn't stick to the grill but they don't wrap it tight, let the smoke permeate the salmon. I use a non-stick fish grate so the salmon is exposed to the fire and smoke. What do you do when grilling salmon?
  15. Thanks for the tips. I tried the salad cold but preferred it when I tried it room temperature. I love wood ear mushrooms so I'll try those next time.
  16. Looks delicious. I'm having something similar for dinner tonight. (and I also make it for breakfast).
  17. Last week I was working on how to combine Korean flavors with salmon. I've been doing Chinese dishes for years and started dabbling in Japanese cooking a few years back, but have never done any Korean dishes at home until last year. One of the local Asian markets was bought last year by a Korean family and now it's my favorite of the three markets in town. They specialize in Korean ingredients and the lady and her husband who own the shop couldn't be more nice. When I was in the market looking for a specific Korean Doenjang soybean paste, she was curious I had the right one. She thought I wanted Japanese Miso, but when I explained the recipe she was quite pleased. She directed me to the correct package of Korean Japchae noodles for the salad I planned on making to go with the salmon. In this recipe I made a paste using Doenjang and slathered that over the top of the salmon. The salmon was grilled on alder planks on the outdoor grill. The Doenjang is stronger than Japanese miso and has a bit of heat, but I loved it. I'll use it again and test it against recipes for Japanese miso. Most of the planks sold for grilling are cedar, but I prefer the alder for a milder smoke flavor. The Japchae noodle salad wasn't something I've made before but I thought it was crisp and refreshing. The noodles don't have much flavor but I liked the texture and they went well with the vegetables in the dressing. I had some salmon leftover and put that into the salad the next day. Korean BBQ Salmon with Japchae Noodle Salad- Chilled Japchae Noodle Salad- 10 oz. Korean Japchae noodles-glass noodles made from potato starch 1 bunch fresh spinach ½ cup fresh bean sprouts ½ yellow onion, thinly sliced ½ red bell pepper, thinly sliced ½ cup julienned carrot 1 tbsp. olive oil 2 garlic cloves, mincd 2 tbsp. soy sauce 1/2 tsp. dried red chili flakes 1 tbsp. apple cider vinegar 1 tbsp. sugar 1 tsp. toasted sesame seeds Heat a pot of water to the boil, then add the Japchae noodles. Cook the noodles until tender, about 7 minutes. Drain the noodles and rinse with cold water. Drain the noodles again. Place the noodles in a large bowl. Heat another saucepot of water to a simmer and add the spinach. Cook the spinach until wilted, about one minute. Drain the spinach then roughly chop. Add the spinach, bean sprouts, onion, red bell pepper, carrot and olive oil to the bowl with the noodles and toss to combine. In a small bowl add the garlic, soy sauce, chili flakes, vinegar, sugar and sesame seeds and stir to combine. Pour the dressing over the noodles and vegetables and toss to combine. Place the salad in a container, cover and refrigerate to chill, at least one hour while you make the salmon. Spicy Korean BBQ Salmon- ½ cup Korean Doenjang soybean paste ½ cup Mayonnaise 2 tbsp. Korean Gochujang chili paste 1 tbsp. granulated sugar 1 tsp. dried red chile flakes 2 tsp. grated lemon zest 1 tbsp. fresh lemon juice 4, 6oz. salmon filets 1 tbsp. olive oil Salt and cracked black pepper 4 alderwood, (or cedar), grilling planks, soaked in water 1 hour 2 fresh lemons 1 tsp. black sesame seeds In a bowl add the soybean paste, mayyonnaise, chili paste, sugar, lemon zest and lemon juice and whisk to combine. Brush the bottom side of each salmon filet with olive oil. Sprinkle the top side of each salmon filet with salt and cracked black pepper. Using a spoon, spread a layer of the Spicy Korean BBQ sauce over the top of each salmon filet. Drain the alder planks from the water. Place each salmon filet on one of the planks and grill. Cut the lemons in half. Grill the lemons to create grill marks while the salmon is grilling on the alder planks. Serve the salmon directly on the planks sprinkled with black sesame seeds. Serve the grilled lemons with the salmon. Serve the chilled Japchae Noodle Salad on the side.
  18. The annual rush here in the Pacific Northwest has been begun with the Copper River salmon now turning up in markets. My emotions vary between happiness and shaking my head in frustration. The Copper River is commanding prices nearing $60 per pound right now. The market of course is priced based on what peope will pay, but the years of marketing, PR and rising the Copper River up to a social media iconic status has pushed the cost pretty much beyond reach. If you dine at a restaurant serving Copper River salmon right now you will pay a premium, but you're only buying one plate. At some of the markets that sell Copper River salmon they require you buy a whole or side of salmon. I have to shop at a place that will sell me only a few filets. I don't need a whole salmon at that price but can handle a few filets. What I've done for a few years now is to wait a few weeks and let the Copper River price come down. Even better, wait until the salmon from other rivers in Alaska, (that don't subscribe to the Copper River juggernaught), is available. It's just a rich and has as much deep flavor as Copper River.
  19. Grilling on wood planks has become very popular. Yet, grilling salmon on wood planks and stakes has been practiced for millennia. When we were kids growing up in The Dalles, Oregon, Mother and Father would take us every summer to a traditional Native American salmon roast. The salmon were fished from the Columbia River that borders the north side of The Dalles. I still remember the taste of that wild salmon-moist, tender with just a hint of alder smoke. Alder grows in the forests on the west side of the Cascade Mountain range that runs from British Columbia down through Washington, Oregon and into Northern California. Back then, (the 1960's), the salmon roast was a very traditional affair without some of the commercial-style trappings you'll find today. But the salmon is just as delicious today as it was in 1967.
  20. I'm working on my next salmon dish. I'll be using a technique that Native Americans here in the Pacific Northwest have been using for generations-grilling salmon over alderwood. I adapt the technique to my outdoor grill and use small alderwood planks. I'm thinking of introducing some Asian flavors to the salmon.
  21. Good point. When I've been in Hawaii I was always suspect of salmon on restauranthet menus. I think, "why would I order salmon that's been flown in from thousands of miles instead of ordering fresh, local Hawaiian fish."
  22. While salmon is a staple in Japan, I haven't found many recipes where salmon is used in countries in Southeast Asia. Is it just a matter of the waters being too warm to support salmon or is it just not as popular as other fish?
  23. This is a new salmon dish I made a few months back. It was sort of an adventure and part of our Avocado Cook-Off here https://forums.egullet.org/topic/158091-eg-cook-off-81-the-avocado-finding-new-popularity-in-the-kitchen/. I knew I wanted to do something different with avocado and I wanted to pair it with salmon. I had never heard of pickled avocado, it was just a thought that popped into my head. I started with an online recipe, then tinkered with it a bit to add some different spices so the dish would have Mexican flavors. Then using the pickled avocado I used it in a watermelon salsa to go with pan-roasted salmon. I don't remember now, but I'm pretty sure this was fresh, albeit farmed, Atlantic salmon. It looks better when you photograph it than it tastes. The farmed salmon we get isn't from the cold waters of Northern Europe. It doesn't have much flavor or color. I might have been better off using frozen wild salmon. Wild salmon would have the bold taste to go better with the flavors of the salsa. Pickled Avocado-Watermelon Salsa-makes 3 cups ½ cup white vinegar ½ cup water 1 tbsp. Kosher salt 1 tbsp. sugar 1 tsp. coriander seeds 1 tsp. mustard seeds 1 tsp. cumin seeds 6 fresh cilantro sprigs 2 cloves garlic, thinly sliced 1 tbsp. finely diced jalapeno 1 tsp. lime zest 2 unripe avocados 1 cup, seedless watermelon cut into small cubes ½ cup finely chopped onion 2 cloves garlic, minced 1 tbsp, minced jalapeno ½ cup finely chopped cilantro 2 tbsp. fresh lime juice 2 tbsp. olive oil Salt and pepper to taste Combine the vinegar, salt, sugar, coriander, mustard and cumin seeds and water in a small saucepan over high heat. Bring to a boil and stir to dissolve the salt and sugar. Remove the saucepan from the heat and pour the brine into a container. Add the cilantro, garlic, jalapeno and lime zest to the brine. Let the brine cool to room temperature. Cut the avocados in half then remove the pit. Peel off the skin and dice the avocado into small cubes. When the brine is cooled add the avocado cubes. Cover the container and refrigerate the avocado overnight. The pickled avocado will keep in the refrigerator for up to two weeks. Before serving, drain the pickled avocado from the brine. Place in a bowl and add the fresh watermelon and avocado cubes, the onion, garlic, cilantro, lime juice and olive oil and gently toss to combine. Season with salt and pepper to taste. The salsa should be served the same day you combine all the ingredients. Salmon- 4, 6-8 oz. salmon filets 2 tsp. mustard powder 2 tsp. chili powder Salt and fresh ground black pepper 2 tbsp. butter 3 tbsp. olive oil Heat the oven to 400. Rub each salmon filet with some of the mustard and chili powder and season with salt and pepper. Heat a skillet over medium heat and add the butter and 2 tbsp. olive oil. Add the salmon filets and brown on each side, about 2-3 minutes per side. Transfer the skillet to the oven and roast the salmon for another 4-5 minutes or until the salmon is firm to the touch and done. Pan-Roasted Salmon with Pickled Avocado-Watermelon Salsa-
  24. For my tastes I always prefer sockeye over king salmon-grilling, smoking, curing, just about any type of preparation. I think it has more flavor and a higher oil content than king salmon and it's a stretch then for me to pay the price of king salmon.
  25. "Smoked Salmon Candy" is a traditional dish we make in the Northwest. Similar to regular hot-smoked salmon, it involves some unique and different steps. The result is smoked salmon that is salty and sweet yet very moist. It has a deep, vibrant red color with a glossy, almost transparent finish. Legend says that Smoked Salmon Candy is the creation of Native Canadians who married the process of brining, drying and smoking salmon with pure maple syrup. I first had Smoked Salmon Candy as an appetizer at the Waterfront Hotel in Vancouver, Canada. I remember the menu description led me to believe it was basically a smoked salmon dish with traditional garnishes--then the plate arrived at the table and I realized that I was in for a new experience--small logs of deep-red, almost transluscent salmon with a rich, oily sheen nestled alone on the plate. The salmon had a firm, yet soft texture, somewhere between cold-smoked salmon and what we know as salmon jerky. But it was anything but the dry, chewy texture of a jerky. The sweet flavor of Canadian Maple Syrup was counter-balanced by a good measure of salt. It was a revelation for me. I had never tasted smoked salmon so unique and so delicious. That's when I first fell in love with Smoked Salmon Candy. I first made Smoked Salmon Candy during our Cook-Off #59: Cured, Brined, Smoked and Salted Fish. The first question I asked was about using sodium nitrite in the cure. I had never used it on fish, only meat. Apparently sodium nitrite is sometimes used in the brine for smoked fish to kill any bacteria during the unsafe temp window of 40-140 used during smoking. In the end I didn't use it, only pickling salt. The process of crafting Smoked Salmon Candy at home takes me a week--2 days of brining, 4 days of drying and 1 day of smoking. I start with a whole side of Wild Alaska Sockeye Salmon. Frozen works well, but we prefer fresh spring salmon to celebrate the season. I cut the salmon into 1" wide filet strips and then let them sit in the brine for 24 hours. The brine- 10 cups water 1/2 cup pickling salt 2 cups dark brown sugar 1 cup maple syrup 1 tbsp. black peppercorns I've tried this recipe with 8 cups water to 1 cup salt and it was far too salty for my tastes. Into the brine- The salmon comes out of the brine and is rinsed in clean, cold water. The next step, drying, was a shock to me at first. I've cured salmon before but always let it dry in the cool fridge. The traditional recipe I started with calls for drying at room temperature or outside. But the recipe works perfect and there hasn't been any danger drying the salmon in the back pantry. Most recipes call for drying the salmon for 1-2 days. I stretch it on this point and dry the salmon, uncovered, at air temperature, for 4 days. I check the salmon by touch each day to make sure it isn't getting to dry and still has some spring to the flesh and develops a sheen on the surface. The idea is to dry the meat and concentrate the flavors, yet not take it to the point where the flesh is fully dried-out. The salmon filets on a rack over a cookie sheet to dry- After 4 days of drying at room temperature, I brush the filets with a mixture of 3/4 cup clover honey and 1/4 cup water. The maple syrup and brown sugar in the brine sweeten the meat of the salmon, and the honey is the "candy" glaze- The next step is smoking. I use a Bradley digital smoker. It uses little "bisquettes" which are small, round compacted discs of wood chips. In the Pacific Northwest we use the traditonal alderwood for smoking salmon. The Bradley smoker works well for me because I can set the time, temperature and the bisquettes are automatically fed into the smoker. Of course, this was a few years back when the smoker was new and clean. It's got a good layer of smoke now, which actually is much better. The first run in a new smoker doesn't always result in the best smoked flavor. I smoke the salmon "candy" filets over alderwood at a temperature of 140 for about 5 hours. The salmon turns out to the have just the right balance of smoke and isn't over-cooked at this temp and time.
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