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What will happen if I don't flash chill my stocks?


mm84321

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I make large batches of stock. I have always been in the habit of rapidly chilling these stocks once finished. It is usually fairly easy to do this during the wintertime in the Northeast, when it is below 30 at night and the patio outside my kitchen is sheeted with snow. Otherwise, I buy large 20 pound bags of ice to chill the stocks in my sink. I have just finished simmering a chicken stock for 9 hours, and am wondering, could I just let it chill overnight in the fridge? I realize the implications of putting a hot stock into a cold fridge, and the temperature adjustment, however I have a refrigerator dedicated to stocks, so I do not need to worry about other items being disturbed. I am also wondering if this habit of rapid chilling is absolutely necessary. I don't remember if I actually read anything saying you have to chill stocks in the same manner as you would proteins cooked sous vide. Thoughts?

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The problem with putting it in the fridge is that it will warm up the whole refrigerator. A lot. The refrigeration units aren't made to handle this kind of load. When a refrigerator is at room temp it takes a couple of days sometimes to get back down to temp.

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You do not need to flash chill stocks. Especially if they were brought to boil temps like 212F. Due to the nature of sous vide cooking alot of people cook at really low temps that "barely" pastuerize. I think this also brings out the worry warts so these people tend to over think things. I ony flash chill when i know i cooked something med rare and dont plan to eat it that same day and want to leave it in the fridge instead of freezing. If i plan to freeze i just put it in the fridge for a few hours and right into the freezer. No need to flash chill.

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Ironically i flash chill stocks to quickly set the fat layer on top so i can pull it out before pouring the stock into cube trays to freeze for a flavor boost to dishes. Just today i made a stock from the bones of 10/lbs of chicken thighs. I dont know why but my chicken stock turned completely white as milk. I read this is a good thing and people purposely try to get this complete white color.

Edited by FeChef (log)
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To be on the safe side, I've always followed the rules for meats while cooling stocks.......

 

"During cooling, the product's maximum internal temperature should not remain between 130°F and 80°F for more than 1.5 hours nor between 80°F and 40°F for more than 5 hours. This cooling rate can be applied universally to cooked products (e.g., partially cooked or fully cooked, intact or non-intact, meat or poultry) and is preferable to (2) below."

 

More here: http://www.fsis.usda.gov/OPPDE/rdad/FRPubs/95-033F/95-033F_Appendix%20B.htm

 

Here's a good article that highlights the possible dangers involved in careless stock handling.....

 

Bending the Rules on Bacteria.....

 

http://www.nytimes.com/2011/08/24/dining/bending-the-rules-on-bacteria-and-food-safety.html?pagewanted=all&_r=0

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~Martin :)

I just don't want to look back and think "I could have eaten that."

Unsupervised, rebellious, radical agrarian experimenter, minimalist penny-pincher, and adventurous cook. Crotchety, cantankerous, terse curmudgeon, non-conformist, and contrarian who questions everything!

The best thing about a vegetable garden is all the meat you can hunt and trap out of it!

 

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It has always been my understanding the broth/stock makes a lovely medium to grow just about any bug if not quickly chilled and properly stored. But I am happy to listen to other science-backed options.

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Anna Nielsen aka "Anna N"

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"Cooking is about doing the best with what you have . . . and succeeding." John Thorne

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FWIW, I use a cooling paddle.

~Martin :)

I just don't want to look back and think "I could have eaten that."

Unsupervised, rebellious, radical agrarian experimenter, minimalist penny-pincher, and adventurous cook. Crotchety, cantankerous, terse curmudgeon, non-conformist, and contrarian who questions everything!

The best thing about a vegetable garden is all the meat you can hunt and trap out of it!

 

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At a restaurant I staged in they chill stocks in large hotel pans. This is a bit problematic for me when making stock in a 25 qt. pot. Would anyone have any tips to the best way for efficiently chilling stocks in such quantity? I usually use up a bag of ice in the sink, which, by the time it is almost melted, has gotten the stock to "warm", not cold. I then will tend to stick it in the fridge at this point so that it does not raise the temperature as much as it would straight off the burner. 

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As I understand it, food safety is probability game.  You can do all sorts of weird stuff and come out okay - maybe.  Or, you could kill a child or an elderly person.  I would not do what you propose - and I'm a devil-may-care kind of guy.

 

In my mind, why would I spend 9 hours making a large batch of stock only to then thrust it into a fridge while still hot?  Why?  It would only take 15-20 minutes to get it down to a reasonable temp  Your sink without ice can do much better.  And with some ice even better.

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Ruhlman and I had a little argument on his website after he published that piece on leaving stock on the stovetop for prolonged periods (that DDF cites above indirectly).

 

His premise was that he hasn't died yet and all that science stuff is just being a worrywart.

 

I guess his transformative experience at CIA didn't include food safety.

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I have the patience and attention span of a gnat  :smile: so I place the stock pot in a ice water bath AND use the cooling paddle to cool it done and be done with it ASAP.

Edited by DiggingDogFarm (log)

~Martin :)

I just don't want to look back and think "I could have eaten that."

Unsupervised, rebellious, radical agrarian experimenter, minimalist penny-pincher, and adventurous cook. Crotchety, cantankerous, terse curmudgeon, non-conformist, and contrarian who questions everything!

The best thing about a vegetable garden is all the meat you can hunt and trap out of it!

 

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Appreciate all of the input. Could someone please point me towards a few sources (scientific) that explain a bit more in depth as to why this is a necessary practice? I'm sort of in between thoughts at the moment, because I think 9 hours at 90C is enough time to consider the stock "pasteurized", therefore safe from harmful bacterial growth, but I also think, as a habit, rapid cooling is usually the best course of action. However, I really do not know enough about this topic to make a final decision. Thanks. 

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I doubt you'll find anything that officially pertains to stocks specifically.

The FDA Food Code contains the rules with some scientific references..... http://www.fda.gov/downloads/Food/GuidanceRegulation/RetailFoodProtection/FoodCode/UCM374510.pdf

~Martin :)

I just don't want to look back and think "I could have eaten that."

Unsupervised, rebellious, radical agrarian experimenter, minimalist penny-pincher, and adventurous cook. Crotchety, cantankerous, terse curmudgeon, non-conformist, and contrarian who questions everything!

The best thing about a vegetable garden is all the meat you can hunt and trap out of it!

 

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After reading your original post again, I realize you are making large amount of stock. I would just fill the bath tub up with cold water and let it cool down for an hour or two then put in the fridge. I have done this many times and never got any children or elderly people sick.

Edited by FeChef (log)
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Ruhlman and I had a little argument on his website after he published that piece on leaving stock on the stovetop for prolonged periods (that DDF cites above indirectly).

 

His premise was that he hasn't died yet and all that science stuff is just being a worrywart.

 

I guess his transformative experience at CIA didn't include food safety.

 

I participated in that argument, and, it's the primary reason why I stopped reading his blog. (that and the insulting, misogynist mayonnaise post which he deleted) Anyway, Harold McGee decided to use the article for one of his own blog posts, and essentially gives Ruhlman a cold, hard smackdown. Enjoy!

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BTW, I use THIS San Jamar ice paddle because it unscrews and you can throw ice into it; no need to fill with water and freeze. This means, with big batches, you can melt a bunch of ice, toss the water, and keep refilling infinitely -or as long as you have ice on hand. They do make bigger models.

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The use of ice has a bonus which is that the fat sticks to the ice, You can filter the stock by straining it after adding the ice.

 

For my part, I cool the stock relatively gradually and then put it in glass jars. I then can them in a pressure canner which kills any nasties and makes the stock shelf stable.

Nick Reynolds, aka "nickrey"

"The Internet is full of false information." Plato
My eG Foodblog

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If you have time and freezer space to prepare in advance, save some 16.9 oz water or 1 liter soda bottles, fill with water and freeze. When it's time to cool the soup, use the cold-water-in-the-sink method but add frozen bottles to the sink instead of ice cubes. Once the temp is under 140 (you have an infared or other thermometer don't you?), add the ice paddle into the center of the pot. Chills it down in no time.

"Life is Too Short to Not Play With Your Food" 

My blog: Fun Playing With Food

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I am not sure about my numbers. Doing it by memory.

 

To cool one gallon of water from 212F (boiling) down to 40F will need 1,434 BTUs.

 

Average home refrigerator can remove 2000 BTUs per hour. 

 

It really would not stress out the refrigerator that much by putting in hot stock in a refrigerator?

 

----------------------------------------------

 

 

Wouldn't it be a good idea if they make a UV liquid sterilizer for kitchen use, like the ones you can buy for aquariums fishtanks.?

 

dcarch

Edited by dcarch (log)
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UV 360  :smile:

~Martin :)

I just don't want to look back and think "I could have eaten that."

Unsupervised, rebellious, radical agrarian experimenter, minimalist penny-pincher, and adventurous cook. Crotchety, cantankerous, terse curmudgeon, non-conformist, and contrarian who questions everything!

The best thing about a vegetable garden is all the meat you can hunt and trap out of it!

 

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I think it cool, but don't think it would work. UV sterilizers have problems with suspended particulates - shadows...

 

Actually, there is a pump which circulates continuously the water inside a compartment. All the water will be exposed to UV germicidal light more than once.

 

Not an expensive gadget.

 

dcarch

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