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weinoo

A Small NYC Kitchen Reno 2017

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On 11/28/2017 at 12:07 PM, Porthos said:

 

That is a beautiful wall of storage. Will your coffee station be in the counter in the middle?

 

Yes, that's where I'm hoping to put siliva and rocky.

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On 9/7/2017 at 5:22 PM, weinoo said:

I've budgeted for it to be a nightmare.

 

As I mentioned on September 7th...and here's an update:

 

Today is the 3-month anniversary of the start of our reno.  Things are moving along slowly, as contractors (and owners) were waiting for a couple of things to arrive from far away (a really cool bathroom shower ceiling light, and the bathroom vanity/sink combo from Duravit). Also, there were at least 10 week days on which our buildings allowed no work to be done because of various holidays - and I think one elevator emergency, which forced work to be cancelled. And no work is allowed on weekends.

 

The vanity/sink finally arrived 11 weeks after the order was placed - and it was damaged somewhere along the way, so it cannot be accepted for delivery. The vendor has found a very similar unit in Georgia - hopefully, that unit will arrive next week in perfect condition.  It's slightly larger (2" width), but it still fits into the design.

 

The ceiling light, ordered about 8 weeks ago (from a company called Bega), has not arrived.  We are being told there are production issues, which is probably a polite way to say something is screwed up somewhere along the supply chain. I've ordered a different ceiling light for the shower, which will arrive today, and we're just going to use it, as no one can say when the production issues on the Bega will be solved.

 

Due to unforeseen circumstances (or just a screw-up in ordering), they ran out of kitchen backsplash tiles, before finishing the kitchen backsplash.  Hopefully, these tiles are in stock and can be picked up today.

 

The custom cabinet and drawer fronts are in an expedited order status, and we will have them "soon."

 

Everything that I ordered personally (butcher block for a portion of my counter, stainless shelves, rail system from Rosle, stainless pegboard, etc. etc.) is here and just waiting to be installed.  Memo to self - I'm a better project manager than the project manager who is being paid.

 

We can move back in once we have a functioning bathroom if all we're waiting for is cab fronts. Still keeping fingers crossed to be done by year-end. 

 

On 9/7/2017 at 5:22 PM, weinoo said:

 


Edited by weinoo (log)
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@weinoo

 

you've got a lot more Fortitude , Intestinal or Not ) than I might have.

 

Deep Allergies to Contractor i have as Ive had very bad luck with this.

 

I know there are good ones out there  But Ive not had the deep pleasure of meeting them myself.

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Sounds like our reno went well last year, compared to yours. Uggh

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Well, when you think about it, these problems are really nothing compared to the world's, or even our little portion of it writ large!

 

The backsplash tiles are fortunately in stock in Nemo's warehouse in Jamaica, Queens. I'll  pick up the bloody tiles today myself.

 

I'm less aggravated with the contractors than I am with a few vendors and our architect/designer/project manager team - all one and the same. They did a a great job with drawings, the DoB, etc., but they're, in my opinion, not great project managers.


Edited by weinoo (log)
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I found during our kitchen reno that I had to ride herd on the group every day - that is, every day that they showed up.  They gave new meaning to the phrase "independent contractor".  In the end, I had to withhold a significant amount of money (the final payment) to get them to come back in with the last switchplate cover, since they'd ordered the wrong size/shape in the first place.  What was estimated to be a 3-week job, IIRC, took more like 4 months counting the weeks of waiting for someone to come back with the proper cover.  There were also some misread plans that led to a counter 2" shorter than I'd intended on the kitchen island.  (That actually worked out for the good, due to passageway clearance issues, but I was irritated at the time.) That said, their work was excellent, and we love the result. We've used those same guys since then for window replacement and siding repair.

 

Hang in there, weinoo.  It'll get done, and you'll love it. As others have said, you have my admiration for your fortitude!

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6 hours ago, weinoo said:

Still keeping fingers crossed to be done by year-end. 

 

Oh, I hope this works out! Maybe things will pick up now.  :)

 

We had a big reno a few years ago where we had to be out of one house for almost five months, but that included raising the entire single story house and building a new lower level including a 2-bdrm suite (with kitchen and bath, of course) as well as some significant renos to the upper level (added a large deck and stairs, gutted and redid main bath, all new flooring and paint throughout, new kitchen countertops and appliances, custom built-ins, electrical updates, new water line, etc). The lot had to be significantly re-contoured to accommodate the work and bring the house level with the roadway. All new siding, new gutters and drainpipes, new driveway and more landscaping. Many other details, some too mundane to mention.

 

A measurement error meant we could not place upper main bath shower where we had planned and the resulting changes required removing the original window and replacing it with a large skylight. We hadn't anticipated having to replace the siding. Once that decision was made, we should have had the other upper windows replaced as they were not terrific. After the new siding was on, we went ahead and replaced them anyway - at a much higher cost, of course. 

 

The original time estimate for the job was three months. It took longer, but it was pretty involved! Still, at the time it was annoying not knowing when we could move back in. 

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3 hours ago, FauxPas said:

The original time estimate for the job was three months. It took longer, but it was pretty involved! Still, at the time it was annoying not knowing when we could move back in. 

A job like that here, with these same conditions, would probably take 5 years.

 

At the beginning, I was quoted 3 months, but with a wink I was told they could be done "much quicker."

 

Turns out there were no tiles to be found anywhere in any warehouses here.  They are special ordered from the main supply place in Texas. I asked how much it would be to get them here quickly, like in 2 or 3 days, and was told $495 for that expedited shipping.  I didn't think that was a great bargain for $100 worth of tiles, so they'll be here when they get here.  And my inexpensive light for the ceiling in the bathroom, which is nowhere near as nice as the one originally ordered, was delivered today...it'll have to do, I suppose.  Once the bathroom is completed, and the kitchen is put together except for the missing tiles, we can actually move back in.

 

Still shooting for prior to year end.  And yes, everyone is still owed a lot of money, as one of the payments is due when tiling is complete, and another payment is due when cabinetry is complete.  The final payment, 15%, is when the whole damn job is done

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1 minute ago, weinoo said:

A job like that here, with these same conditions, would probably take 5 years.

 

OMG! :shock:  xD

 

2 minutes ago, weinoo said:

Turns out there were no tiles to be found anywhere in any warehouses here.  They are special ordered from the main supply place in Texas. I asked how much it would be to get them here quickly, like in 2 or 3 days, and was told $495 for that expedited shipping.  I didn't think that was a great bargain for $100 worth of tiles, so they'll be here when they get here.  And my inexpensive light for the ceiling in the bathroom, which is nowhere near as nice as the one originally ordered, was delivered today...it'll have to do, I suppose.  Once the bathroom is completed, and the kitchen is put together except for the missing tiles, we can actually move back in.

 

Oh no, such a shame that you couldn't find the tiles locally. Too bad Amazon doesn't stock 'em, ha. 

 

Can you replace that bathoom ceiling light later on with something you like better, perhaps? 

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Just now, FauxPas said:

 

OMG! :shock:  xD

 

 

Oh no, such a shame that you couldn't find the tiles locally. Too bad Amazon doesn't stock 'em, ha. 

 

Can you replace that bathoom ceiling light later on with something you like better, perhaps? 

Yeah - the tiles are only available from the manufacturer.

 

I think the problem with the bathroom light is that the light we ordered is a complete unit, with the housing an integral part of it.  I suppose it could be done, but it would probably mean cutting through that ceiling again.

 

Bega 55926_Sub.pdf

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14 minutes ago, weinoo said:

 

That is a nice looking light. I see that Bega's address is in Carpinteria, CA. That's right on the edge of one of the big wildfires burning in California right now. 

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It's not a very good idea to do renovation around this time of the year.

 

Religious holidays, Thanksgiving, New year, football, ------------------------

Everyone else wants his/hers renovation done before the holidays -----------------------

Businesses need to use up their budgets near the end of the year, tax write offs -------------------

Snow storms can delay your job ------ There was one recent year in NY area, snow storms every other week.

 

dcarch

 

 

 


Edited by dcarch (log)

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28 minutes ago, dcarch said:

It's not a very good idea to do renovation around this time of the year.

 

Around here, one does not choose what time of year renovations are done.  One is lucky to find a decently qualified and recommended contractor who will take a job and then one waits in the queue.  Delays in one job ripple down through the queue.

You can always start over with another contractor but it's the same story.  

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37 minutes ago, dcarch said:

It's not a very good idea to do renovation around this time of the year.

 

Religious holidays, Thanksgiving, New year, football, ------------------------

Everyone else wants his/hers renovation done before the holidays -----------------------

Businesses need to use up their budgets near the end of the year, tax write offs -------------------

Snow storms can delay your job ------ There was one recent year in NY area, snow storms ever other week.

 

dcarch

 

 

 

He started 3 months ago!

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1 hour ago, barolo said:

He started 3 months ago!

And @dcarch - those religious holidays were 2 months ago!

 

Around here, in a coop with 1,700+ apartments, you start as soon as everyone says you can start!


Edited by weinoo (log)
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2 hours ago, dcarch said:

 

Snow storms can delay your job ------ There was one recent year in NY area, snow storms every other week.

 

dcarch

 

 

 

 

We did our renovation in DC in 2009.  Massive snow. Columbia Road basically impassable. My contractor was aggravated. I was the project manager. It got done in under 3 months. Using stuff from Home Depot, etc. This job is a little more high end. And I wasn't, at least until now, the project manager.

 

At this point, I plan on being in everyone's face on a daily basis. What's with people not wanting to do the best job they can?


Edited by weinoo (log)
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On 10/29/2017 at 11:57 AM, lindag said:

The plumbing in my home was done with copper pipe and I've had nothing but trouble with it

The hot water runs develop pin holes and I’ve had at least five leaks.  I'm currently waiting for my drywall guy to come and fix this last repair.  The original owner had some of the pipe torn out and replaced with flex but The harder-to-get-to pipe remains.

this is not to say there's anything wrong with copper pipe, I believe that this job was done with poor quality or defective pipe.

In my case, I almost need to keep my plumber on retainer.

The biggest problem with copper pipes is if the plumber does not electrically  isolate the copper pipes from iron pipes (plumbing Code), causing destructive galvanic corrosion.

For the plumber who does isolate the pipes, they sometimes forget to re-ground the electric power wiring to preserve electric ground for your appliances.

 

dcarch

Something strange with this post ? How did it get here?

 


Edited by dcarch (log)

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3 hours ago, FauxPas said:

 

That is a nice looking light. I see that Bega's address is in Carpinteria, CA. That's right on the edge of one of the big wildfires burning in California right now. 

It's a really nice light, right?!  And what's going on right now in Cali really didn't have anything to do with my delays.  I think product comes from Germany and other unknown locales, maybe ending up in Carpinteria, before perhaps being shipped to the end user.

 

And they're claiming they're having trouble with LEDs. So who knows? In any event, a pain in the ass. Basically because had someone said 4 weeks ago they were having these issues, I could've solved stuff another way.

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1 minute ago, dcarch said:

The biggest problem with copper pipes is if the plumber does not electrically  isolate the copper pipes from iron pipes (plumbing Code), causing destructive galvanic corrosion.

For the plumber who does isolate the pipes, they sometimes forget to re-ground the electric power wiring to preserve electric ground for your appliances.

 

dcarch

 

Didn't we already discuss this once?  

 

Life o' the party, eh?

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1 minute ago, weinoo said:

Didn't we already discuss this once?  

 

Life o' the party, eh?

 

It is very strange? How did that post got there?

dcarch

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Not about your reno - but about project management.

 

My FIL is in a care facility dying of cancer. He will never return to his home. He has lately started asking about major maintenance issues with the house, replacing the windows, exterior painting, etc. The plan that my DW and her siblings have is to wait until after his passing and see if the house should be sold as-is, the most common way with estate sales, or if the realtor thinks that certain deep maintenance would increase the profit margin. As the retired one who lives nearby, it would fall on me to oversee the contractors who would be doing the work. Since I think the house has too many deep issues (plumbing, electrical is no longer sufficient, etc) I think the as-is would be the best bet. For the moment we are stalling.

 

With my engineering background I know I can do the administration/oversite of the various contractors, but I would like to put that off until we know that we will not be selling the house as-is.


Edited by Porthos (log)
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9 hours ago, dcarch said:

 

It is very strange? How did that post got there?

dcarch

 

I think my copper pipes touched each other inappropriately.

 

7 hours ago, Porthos said:

Not about your reno - but about project management.

 

My FIL is in a care facility dying of cancer. He will never return to his home. He has lately started asking about major maintenance issues with the house, replacing the windows, exterior painting, etc. The plan that my DW and her siblings have is to wait until after his passing and see if the house should be sold as-is, the most common way with estate sales, or if the realtor thinks that certain deep maintenance would increase the profit margin. As the retired one who lives nearby, it would fall on me to oversee the contractors who would be doing the work. Since I think the house has too many deep issues (plumbing, electrical is no longer sufficient, etc) I think the as-is would be the best bet. For the moment we are stalling.

 

With my engineering background I know I can do the administration/oversite of the various contractors, but I would like to put that off until we know that we will not be selling the house as-is.

 

 

This sucks, and so sorry to hear. From everything I've ever read, sell the house as-is.  Some minor cosmetic freshen-up might not be a terrible idea, but most people, when they buy a house or apartment, want to do it in their own inimitable style.


Edited by weinoo (log)
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This arrived, and is being given some extra tlc before I let it get installed.

 

5a2a8c7e6fa0d_2017_12_0704288.thumb.JPG.4db426099c2a317fccf3191e82bb0990.JPG

 

It's from a woodworking company in Massachusetts, called Sprague Woodworking. Maple, beautiful job they did. Got it when they said I would, just 2 weeks from the date of order until delivery. Quite reasonable.

 

What does everyone think  - can you over-oil a board?


Edited by weinoo (log)
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30 minutes ago, weinoo said:

I think my copper pipes touched each other inappropriately.

Tell your architect to check: a) If all pipe hangers and retainers are correctly done, otherwise you will get strange noises inside the walls when pipes expand and contract, in the middle of the night.  b) Tell your architect to check if there are  pipe runs which may require water hammer arrester. 

 

 

24 minutes ago, weinoo said:

Maple, beautiful job they did. Got it when they said I would, just 2 weeks from the date of order until delivery. Quite reasonable.

Very beautiful board. Weights a ton. Have your wood shop make a smaller one with matching wood for heavy chopping.

 

Beautiful project. Worth all the aggravations and $$$.

 

dcarch

 

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4 hours ago, weinoo said:

This arrived, and is being given some extra tlc before I let it get installed.

 

5a2a8c7e6fa0d_2017_12_0704288.thumb.JPG.4db426099c2a317fccf3191e82bb0990.JPG

 

It's from a woodworking company in Massachusetts, called Sprague Woodworking. Maple, beautiful job they did. Got it when they said I would, just 2 weeks from the date of order until delivery. Quite reasonable.

 

What does everyone think  - can you over-oil a board?

 

 

That. Is. Gorgeous!  I hope it gives you a lifetime of pleasure. 

 

I'm not an authority on this, but as far as I know you cannot over-oil a board.  The excess will simply sit on the surface until you wipe it off.  You'll have wasted a little oil doing that, but you'll know that the wood has enough oil if there's a slight sheen of excess 5 - 10 minutes after oiling.


Edited by Smithy Clarity (log)
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      I initially thought I could handicap such a race simply by using the temperature setting and comparing the times required to achieve a “preheat” in a pans of cold water. Alas, no—the Panasonic’s IR function signified the copper pan was preheated to 350F before the water even reached 70F! Obviously, the entire thermal system of cold food in a cold pan needs to come to equilibrium before the Panasonic’s temperature readout becomes meaningful.

      A. Temperature Settings
       
      Unfortunately, with every pan I tried, the temperature settings were wildly inaccurate for measuring the temperature of the food. I heated 2 liters of peanut oil in a variety of pots, disk-base, enameled cast iron enameled steel, and copper. I thought it might be useful to see how close to 350F and 375F the settings were for deep frying. The oil in a Le Creuset 5.5Q Dutch oven set to 350F never made it past 285F, and it took 40:00 to get there. I kept bumping up the setting until I found that the setting for 420F will hold the oil at 346F. A disk-based pot didn’t hit 365F until the temperature setting was boosted to 400F. The only pan which came remotely close to being true to the settings was a 2mm silvered copper oven, which heated its oil to 327F when the Panasonic was set for 350F, and 380F when set for 410F.
       
      The temperature function was a lot closer to true when simply preheating an empty pan. With a setting of 350F, all the shiny stainless pans heated to just a few degrees higher (about 353-357F) and held there. This is useful for judging the Leidenfrost Point (which is the heat at which you can oil your SS and have it cook relatively nonstick) and potentially for “seasoning” carbon steel, SS and aluminum, but not much else, since it doesn’t translate to actual food temperature. There’s also the issue of the temperature settings *starting* at 285F, so holding a lower temperature for, e.g., tempering chocolate or a sous vide bath, or even a simmer would be by-guess-by-golly just like any other hob—your only resort is lots of experience with lower *power* settings.
       
      With heat-tarnished copper, a 350F setting resulted in a wide swinging between 353F and 365F, which I attribute to the copper shedding heat far faster than the other constructions, once the circuit stops the power at temperature. Then, when the circuit cycles the power back on, the copper is so responsive that it quickly overshoots the setting. Aluminum, on the other hand, *undershot*, the 350F setting, registering a cycle of 332-340F.

      I conclude that the IR sensor is set for some particular emissivity, probably for that of stainless steel. If true, the Panasonic, even though it automatically switches frequencies, does not compensate for the different emissivities of copper and aluminum. And even if Panasonic added dedicated aluminum and copper IR sensors, there is enough difference between dirty and polished that the added cost would be wasted. Bottom line here: the temperature setting mode is of extremely low utility, and should not be trusted.
       
      B. Power Mode – Pan Material Comparisons
       
      Given the differences in power setting granularity and maximum power between the two frequencies, it is difficult to assess what X watts into the pot means in, say, a copper-versus-clad or –disk showdown. What is clear, however, is that Setting X under disk and clad seems “hotter” than the same setting under copper and aluminum.

      I will need to precisely calibrate the Panasonic for wattage anyway for the hyperconductivity project, so I will obtain a higher-powered watt meter to determine the wattage of every power setting for both frequencies. Until then, however, the only way I can fairly handicap a race is to apply a reduction figure to the ferromagnetic setting (2400W being 69% of 3500W). Given that we know the wattage at the maximum settings, we can infer that Setting 14 (actually 13.8) on the 20-step ferromagnetic range iis approximately the same heat output as the maximum setting (18) for copper/aluminum.

      The boil times for 4 liters of 50F water in 10” diameter pots shocked me. The 10” x 3mm tinned copper pot’s water reached 211F in 36:41. Not an especially fast time at 2400 watts. The 10” disk-based pressure cooker bottom? Well, it didn’t make it—it took an hour to get to 208F and then hung there. So that left me wondering if the Panasonic engineers simply decided that 2400 watts was enough for copper and aluminum. I have a theory why the copper pot boiled and the SS one didn’t under the same power, but getting into that’s for another time.

      C. Evenness Comparisons
       
      The wires which generate the induction field are wound in a circular pattern; when energized, they create a torus-shaped magnetic field. The wound coil is constructed with an empty hole at its center. As matters of physics, the magnetic field’s intensity drops off extremely fast as a function of the distance from the coil; a few millimeters above the Ceran, the field is so weak no meaningful heat will be generated. This means that most induction cooktops heat *only* the very bottom of pans, and in a distinct 2-dimensional “doughnut” shape.

      All of the above can result in a pan having a cooler central spot, a hotter ring directly over the coil, and a cooler periphery outside the coil. It is left to the cookware to try to even out these thermal discontinuities when cooking. Some materials and pan constructions are better at this than others: the successful constructions utilize more highly-conductive metals such as aluminum and copper, but unless the material is very thick, there can be a ring-shaped hotspot that can scorch food.
      Until the Panasonic arrived to market, hotspot comparisons between ferromagnetic and aluminum/copper pans depended largely on comparing induction’s flat, more discrete heat ring with gas’s more diffuse, 3-dimensional one. Dodgeball-style debate ensued, with few clear conclusions. But now, for the first time, equally-powered flat heat rings in two different frequencies allow us to directly compare evenness in ferromagnetic and aluminum/copper cookware.

      The simplest and easiest way to assess cookware evenness is the “scorchprint”, which does not require infrared or other advanced thermal imaging equipment. I’ve posted on how to conduct scorchprinting elsewhere, but basically a pan is evenly dusted with flour; heat is applied to the pan bottom. As the flour is toasted, any hotspots visually emerge, giving the viewer a useful general idea of evenness.
       
      I will later post the photos of scorchprints I made of 4 different pans run using the Panasonic KY-MK3500: (1) a Demeyere 28cm Proline 5* clad frypan; (2) a Fissler Original Profi disk-base 28cm frypan; a 6mm aluminum omelet pan; and (4) a 32cm x 3.2mm Dehillerin sauté. To make it a fair race, I heated all the pans at 2400W until they reached 450F, and then backed off the power setting to maintain 450F. I did this in order not to compromise my saute’s tin lining. As you will see, both the clad Demeyere and the disk-based Fissler did print the typical brown doughnut, with a cooler center and periphery. By far the most even was the thick, all-aluminum pan, which actually was even over its entirety—even including the walls. The copper sauté was also quite even, although its larger size and mass really dissipated heat; once 450F was dialed in, no more browning happened, even after 30 minutes.
       
      I conclude that the straightgauge pans were far more effective at shunting heat to their peripheries and walls (and also to some extent into the air) than the clad and disk-based pans. The latter accumulated their heat with most of it staying in the center of the pans. Eventually, even the “doughnut hole” blended into the scorch ring because the walls were not bleeding sufficient heat away from the floor. This was especially pronounced in the Fissler, the high wall and rim areas of which never exceeded 125F. The aluminum pan, in contrast varied less than 30F everywhere on the pan.

      D. Other Considerations

      The Panasonic’s fan noise at the cook’s position was noticeable at 63 dBA, higher than with the VMP’s 57 dBA. These levels are characterized as “normal conversation” and “quiet street”, respectively. Interestingly, I found two other, potentially more important differences. First, the Panasonic’s fan stays on, even after the unit is powered off, whereas the VMP’s fan shuts off immediately when the hob is turned off. Second, the Panasonic’s fan steps down from the louder speed to a much quieter (47 dBA, characterized as “quiet home”) level until the Ceran is cool to sustained touch, at which point it shuts off completely. I think the Panasonic’s ability to continue to vent and cool itself is a great feature, especially since a cook could leave a large, full, hot pan on the glass.

      The glowing circle is useless for gauging heat setting or intensity. And while it works to indicate a hot surface, it remains lit long after you can hold your hand in place dead center.
       
      VI. Summary and Lessons
       
      The Panasonic KY-MK3500 is a solid unit, well-conceived and rugged. It is extremely easy to use. It works well with both the common 24kHz frequency used with ferromagnetic cookware, and the 90kHz frequency chosen here for copper and aluminum. It effectively and automatically switches between the two.

      In my opinion, it points the way to expanding the worldwide induction appliance market to include dual frequencies. It also obviates the need to: (a) junk otherwise excellent cookware merely to have induction; and (b) retrofit designs to bond on ferromagnetic outer layers. In fact, in my opinion, my tests indicate that, in a dual-frequency world, adding ferromagnetic bottoms may well be a drag on pans’ performance.
       
      I also consider the Panasonic Met-All to be ground-breaking in what it can tell us about *pans*, because all metallic pans are now commensurable on induction. Clearly (to me anyway), watt-for-watt, the copper and aluminum pans performed better than did the clad and disk-based pans on this unit. Boil times were faster, there was less propensity to scorch, and the conductive-sidewall pans definitely added more heat to the pans’ contents. We may ultimately find that 90kHz fields save energy compared to 24kHz fields, much as copper and aluminum require less heat on gas and electric coil.
      In terms of heat transfer, the copper and aluminum pans came close to emulating the same pans on gas. And at 2400W/3500W it has the power of a full size appliance in a relatively small tabletop package.
       
      The Panasonic is far from perfect, however. It can’t really be considered portable. There are far too few temperature settings, and what few it has are not accurate or consistent in terms of judging pan contents and attaining the same temperature in different pans (and even the same pan unless clean). The luminous ring could easily have been made a useful indicator of intensity, but wasn’t. And it lacks things that should be obvious, including a through-the-glass “button” contact thermocouple, more power granularity, an analog-style control knob, and capacity to accept an external thermocouple probe for PID control.
       
      Most importantly for me, the Panasonic KY-MK3500 portends more good things to come. Retail price remains $1,700-$2,400, but I jumped on it at $611, and I’ve seen it elsewhere for as low as $1,200.
       
      The manual can be found here: ftp://ftp.panasonic.com/commercialfoo...
       
      Photo Credit:  Panasonic Corporation

    • By haresfur
      We have started into fixing the kitchen after starting planning several years ago - almost as long as the dishwasher has been dead and the oven barely functional. And don't get me started on the non-exhaust fan.
       
      Before the destruction but after removing all the crap:
       

       
       
       

       
      The fridge was replaced not too long ago and is staying where it is. We had to have its alcove expanded. Perhaps not the best ergonomic location but it fits. We aren't moving the other appliances or sink very far so are hoping the plumbing and electric are no big deal.
       
      End of first day. We caught a couple of things in time. The fume hood and cupboards over the cook-top were set too low. They were going to set the sink as an over-mount when we had bought and under-mount. Apparently it could be done either way but silly us for not making it clear that the sink described as an undermount should be under the counter top. We decide the cupboard to the right of the oven should open the other way so we can get in there when cooking. Our mistake but I hope we can keep the oil, salt, pepper, etc. there rather than cluttering up the counter. The cabinet guy insisted that the cook-top couldn't be centred over the oven. I still don't understand why but not a big deal. It will be easier to get around the island when someone else is cooking but harder to squeeze past into the pantry.
       
      It seems to me that the walls should have been re-done before the cabinets went up. I think this was easier on the cabinet guy who is doing most of the coordination but probably will be a pain for the plasterer. And we have some trim issues to work out.
       

       

       

       
      Day 2 fixing things, electrical work, and measuring for the countertops. Now we wait for them to be finished before much else can happen.
       

       
      Spock is not impressed.
       
       
    • By &roid
      We’ve lived in our house for about twelve years and did a small extension not long after we moved in. With our growing family (son number two arrived this July) we wanted to get a bit more living space so started looking at options about a year ago. We have a late Victorian house with a separate dining room, as nice as this is it’s been a big waste of space - we probably used it two or three times a year. So the plan was to extend the kitchen to add a decent sized dining area and free up the dining room for something better. 
       
      The kitchen we had is under ten years old so we’ve decided to keep some parts of it, adding new worktops, a large rangetop and a breakfast cabinet with pocket doors to hide away the toaster and coffee machine. 
       
      We’re about halfway through the build at the moment so thought I’d post up some pictures of our progress. Hopefully we’ll be finished this side of Christmas... hopefully!
    • By chocoera
      Hi guys!  So...as we all know hindsight is 20/20....so i'm sure we ALLLLLLLLLLLL  have things we'd do differently if setting up our home or professional workplaces.  I'm working with a space that's approximately 850 sq ft.  If you could create your ideal space, what would you do?  The kicker is, i'm a mixed media kitchen, i dont do straight chocolate work.  I do baking so i'll have a double vertical convection oven, i'm getting rid of my 6 burner range and switching to table top induction burners. I have a dishwasher and big sink for rinsing vs 3 compartment sink (hand sink of course) and mop sink....and i have multiple 7 ft and 8 ft stainless tables. I currently have a "cooling room" set up with 4 speed racks, but thought maybe i should switch to a fridge turned up to 40 or 50F? I freeze things for bulk production, so will still have some chest freezers set higher than normal....but yeah. i'm just at a loss of how to capitalize on space, and keep things organized and storage of bon bons, turtles, barks, chocolate caramel apples (things that need to be stored for packaging by employees before they hit the retail floor)  i know jin from vegas had a fridge set at 50F for cooling molds once sprayed and shelled, then once she filled them, moved to a 40F fridge to set filling, then she sealed them...but i didn't remember where she kept bon bons for her bar (where customers pick and choose) or the ones out ready to be boxed?  i know she and jean marie were freezing for bulk orders etc...but yeah.  my mind is just overwhelmed with possibilities, and i just dont want to mess up this new kitchen layout. i think its harder because i make so many things in my kitchen, so i have pots, pans, sheet pans, springforms, cookie cutters, muffin tins, kitchen aid mixers, a floor mixer,  mol d'arts, baking liners, molds, colors, EZ temper, brushes, kitchen utensils, transfer sheets, bulk chocolate and ingredients blah blah blah.   so. if you guys could make an ideal workflow....would you do a walk-in fridge for confection storage? a few fridges set higher (but would humidity be an issue if stored for multiple days before packaging), build another cooling room (it was a room with drywall/insulation/a door/speedracks and portable AC set to keep that room cooler...), or yeah.  thoughts?  oh yeah. and  i need to fit an enrober in there too.  sooooo, ideal workspace. what's in it?  and go!  :0)
    • By ChefDavid84
      Hi, I'm David. I'm in the process of starting a new venture, and need some advice. I'm starting a catering company to cater to 4 golf courses, and hope to expand into other offsite catering after a year or so. I'm looking for a space to put a central kitchen to cook everything, and truck it out from there. We will be serving about 1200 people per weekend. Im having trouble visualizing how big of a kitchen space I'm going to need, and am having trouble finding anything online to help calculate the size of said space. Any help or advice would be greatly appreciated.    Thanks in advance,   Chef David
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