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Home Made Ice Cream (2015– )


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Well, the whole experiment ended up as a bit of a shitshow, but not for normal shitshow reasons.

 

First - the ice cream.  We really liked the flavor of the ice creams (at least the coffee one we got to really taste - more later). But texturally, I just don't know.  Sure - it has more of that commercial ice cream shop feel - chewier, not as quick to melt, or other issues that I'm unable to describe. Paul will be happy to know it really wasn't too sweet, though I could even dial back the sweeteners by a tablespoon or two w/o much problem, I think.  There's so little cream cheese in the overall mixture as well - but it needed straining anyway - maybe I didn't whisk it enough. The coffee flavor came through nicely - I used an espresso roast, coarsely ground, and steeped it in the cream/milk/sugar/corn syrup mixture for 5 minutes before straining that. Vanilla was, well, vanilla-y.

 

I wonder why she brings the mixture to another boil after adding the cornstarch slurry; cornstarch begins its thickening at lower than boiling point, and then can even start to thin out if stirred too much or overheated.

 

I would be tempted to try again, with some slight mods to the recipe. But would they suck then - like if I only heated the milk to, say, 180 for a minute or so?

 

Now - what happened that really was the shitshow part? I had the first batch (the vanilla) sitting pretty in its container in the freezer. When I opened the freezer to get the 2nd container out so I could transfer the ice cream from the Lello to the freezer, the container with the vanilla came sliding out of the freezer, smashed onto the wooden floor, and broke into like 50 pieces. Here was my just made vanilla ice cream, melting in a pool of broken glass, on my nice wooden floor. Who uses glass in a freezer?

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Mitch Weinstein aka "weinoo"

Tasty Travails - My Blog

My eGullet FoodBog - A Tale of Two Boroughs

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21 hours ago, weinoo said:

Made two bases this morning, to spin later this afternoon.

 

Jeni's Splendid Ice Cream's Black Coffee and Ugandan vanilla

 

Followed the recipes EXACTLY (though i don't have Ugandan vanilla beans). Okay, maybe NOT exactly - I did 1/2 recipe of each instead of a quart of each; this way, if they suck, I can just start over and not feel so bad about the waste.

 

Quite interested to see how my first attempt at using both light corn syrup and cornstarch turns out.

 

She boils the milk, cream, sugar, and corn syrup for 4 minutes before doing the cornstarch thing. Any idea why?

I think in an interview she said the boiling approximates the nano filtration that they do. Which increases the solids content. So you can boil but also just add skim milk powder which is easier

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14 hours ago, paulraphael said:

 

My guess is it's a home-friendly vague approximation of what she does in her commercial ice cream. She pasteurizes at a moderate temperature (I think she said 75°C) for close to an hour. At least this was when she was making the base in-house. The cooking is about denaturing the milk proteins to the right degree so they'll take the place of eggs as an emulsifier. She generally doesn't like eggs in her ice cream. Maybe she found that a 4-minute boil gets the job done reasonably well? 

 

I believe I read somewhere that this is exactly why she uses this step. I have made many of the ice creams in her book and have always been very happy with the custardy texture sans eggs, though I have nothing against eggs at all. Her lemon recipe is fantastic and I find I like it better than those recipes I have made with a traditional custard base.

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5 hours ago, weinoo said:

maybe I didn't whisk it enough

 

I did this the first few times I made these recipes. Now I add just a little bit of the hot milk at first and whisk thoroughly to get any lumps out, adding the rest slowly after it has smoothed out.

 

5 hours ago, weinoo said:

When I opened the freezer to get the 2nd container out so I could transfer the ice cream from the Lello to the freezer, the container with the vanilla came sliding out of the freezer, smashed onto the wooden floor, and broke into like 50 pieces.

 

This makes me sad.

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5 hours ago, weinoo said:

When I opened the freezer to get the 2nd container out so I could transfer the ice cream from the Lello to the freezer, the container with the vanilla came sliding out of the freezer, smashed onto the wooden floor, and broke into like 50 pieces.

 

6 minutes ago, Yiannos said:

This makes me sad.

 

For any number of reasons!

 

1. I was using one of those recently purchased OXO glass storage things. So that's wasted.

2. I gouged a nice hole in the wooden floor

3. I WASTED THE ICE CREAM! (though the amount I licked off the dasher and out of the Lello container led me to conclude it was tasty).

 

 

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Mitch Weinstein aka "weinoo"

Tasty Travails - My Blog

My eGullet FoodBog - A Tale of Two Boroughs

Was it you baby...or just a Brilliant Disguise?

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1 hour ago, ccp900 said:

I think in an interview she said the boiling approximates the nano filtration that they do. Which increases the solids content. So you can boil but also just add skim milk powder which is easier

 

Nanofiltered milk is available in the local store.  @Ruben Porto's method calls for reducing the mix to concentrate the solids, but heating at 77C, not boiling.

 

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3 minutes ago, weinoo said:

 

 

For any number of reasons!

 

1. I was using one of those recently purchased OXO glass storage things. So that's wasted.

2. I gouged a nice hole in the wooden floor

3. I WASTED THE ICE CREAM! (though the amount I licked off the dasher and out of the Lello container led me to conclude it was tasty).

 

 

 

Might have been worse.  You could have cut your tongue.

 

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True, @JoNorvelleWalker - that would not be pleasant!

 

I want to give a shout out to @paulraphael and his most excellent (albeit geeky) ice cream blog stuff. The book reviews pointed me to Dana Cree's Hello, My Name Is Ice Cream, a fine work for even a beginning student like me.  I immediately borrowed it (via Libby) from my library, and it has been ordered for my bookshelf.

 

Here's a gratuitous picture of the coffee ice cream (via Jeni) - the survivor of my ice cream mishap of a few days ago. Quite good.

 

1819107540_Coffeeicecream08-08.jpeg.3b9b577cd7e2a6c7f371e877c12e5c27.jpeg

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Mitch Weinstein aka "weinoo"

Tasty Travails - My Blog

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Was it you baby...or just a Brilliant Disguise?

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Thanks I am sure to this topic, I dreamed about making ice cream last night. Peach, specifically.

 

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Don't ask. Eat it.

www.kayatthekeyboard.wordpress.com

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22 hours ago, JoNorvelleWalker said:

 

Nanofiltered milk is available in the local store.  @Ruben Porto's method calls for reducing the mix to concentrate the solids, but heating at 77C, not boiling.

 

 

Yeah, and she held at 77 for about 45 minutes. She started with raw milk, and centrifuged it to separate it into high-fat cream and low-fat milk. 

 

What she's calling nanofiltering is just reverse-osmosis. It's a heat-free way to remove water and condense the milk, to up the solids content. This was separate from the pasteurization step (which was done without evaporation), which she tailored for getting the milk proteins the way she liked (which was about texture, and also for flavor, according to her—although in my own blind tests no one could find any flavor difference between ice creams cooked at different times/temperatures within the ranges we tested). 

 

She hinted that her current methods (carried out by a dairy to her specs) are a bit different—maybe a somewhat shorter, hotter pasteurization.

 

In her homemade recipes, she adds stabilization and milk solids through cream cheese (a pretty funny hack). So I don't know how much she relies on  evaporation.

 

I personally don't like using evaporation to concentrate milk solids. It's tedious, inconsistent, and offers no advantages over adding low-temperature spray-dried skim milk. 

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1 hour ago, paulraphael said:

I personally don't like using evaporation to concentrate milk solids. It's tedious, inconsistent, and offers no advantages over adding low-temperature spray-dried skim milk. 

 

I doubt Ruben is reading our topic anymore, however he says he modified some of his recipes to use dried milk not because it gave better results than holding the mix at 77C for an hour, but because dried milk was more practical for the home cook.

 

On the subject of dried milk:  would it help @ElsieD and her less than 40% cream to replace dried skim milk in the recipes with dried whole milk?  I stocked up on dried whole milk at the start of the pandemic and I may give it a try myself.

 

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4 hours ago, JoNorvelleWalker said:

 

I doubt Ruben is reading our topic anymore, however he says he modified some of his recipes to use dried milk not because it gave better results than holding the mix at 77C for an hour, but because dried milk was more practical for the home cook.

 

On the subject of dried milk:  would it help @ElsieD and her less than 40% cream to replace dried skim milk in the recipes with dried whole milk?  I stocked up on dried whole milk at the start of the pandemic and I may give it a try myself.

 

 

Ruben's ice creams are all so high-fat and high-solids, I'm skeptical that of any of these protein cooking techniques make a real difference. If he's not comparing results with triangle tests, I'm not giving much weight to these opinions. Anything you do with a recipe that has those numbers is going to be rich and dense and smooth. And none of the technique stuff is going to have a meaningful effect on flavor.

Notes from the underbelly

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11 hours ago, JoNorvelleWalker said:

 

I doubt Ruben is reading our topic anymore, however he says he modified some of his recipes to use dried milk not because it gave better results than holding the mix at 77C for an hour, but because dried milk was more practical for the home cook.

 

On the subject of dried milk:  would it help @ElsieD and her less than 40% cream to replace dried skim milk in the recipes with dried whole milk?  I stocked up on dried whole milk at the start of the pandemic and I may give it a try myself.

 

I have used dried whole milk before when I couldn’t find dried skim milk and it worked ok. I just had to make sure I accounted for the fat in the recipe. No real issues.

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Just remember that dried whole milk much more perishable than dried skim. I even treat dried skim milk as if it's quite perishable (it isn't really, but it can take on stale flavors easily ... not sure if it actually gets stale of if it absorbs odors). I like to double bag milk powder and keep in the freezer. I'd definitely do this with whole milk powder.

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On 8/10/2020 at 9:28 AM, weinoo said:

I want to give a shout out to @paulraphael and his most excellent (albeit geeky) ice cream blog stuff. The book reviews pointed me to Dana Cree's Hello, My Name Is Ice Cream, a fine work for even a beginning student like me.  I immediately borrowed it (via Libby) from my library, and it has been ordered for my bookshelf.

 

Than you, Mitch!

 

By geeky you mean sexy? Silly autocorrect.

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1 hour ago, Margaret Pilgrim said:

There has been a somewhat push-me-pull-me conversation here regarding desirable textures and how to attain them.    Dorie Greenspan describers the pleasures of simple homemade ice cream.

Thanks for sharing

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3 hours ago, Margaret Pilgrim said:

There has been a somewhat push-me-pull-me conversation here regarding desirable textures and how to attain them.    Dorie Greenspan describers the pleasures of simple homemade ice cream.

 

You could also say she's discovering the pleasures of going beyond simple ice cream. She's describing doing quite a bit of the chemistry that pastry chefs do when striving for better textures. She wanted to get rid of eggs, and found a way to avoid thin and icy textures by adding milk solids (skim milk powder) alternative sugars (honey—which is mostly invert syrup, which has more freezing point depression and better water control than sucrose) and another freezing point depressant (alcohol, which isn't a great ingredient, but can work). 

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How do you you think the Persian "ice cream" bastani fits in the mix. I live in an area with a large  Persian population. and though not a sweets person I find it interesting in small amounts. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bastani_sonnati  https://www.food.com/recipe/bastani-persian-rose-water-saffron-and-pistachio-ice-cream-318129

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1 hour ago, heidih said:

How do you you think the Persian "ice cream" bastani fits in the mix. I live in an area with a large  Persian population. and though not a sweets person I find it interesting in small amounts. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bastani_sonnati  https://www.food.com/recipe/bastani-persian-rose-water-saffron-and-pistachio-ice-cream-318129

 

 

Sounds good to me, except possibly for the amount of sugar.

 

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10 hours ago, JoNorvelleWalker said:

 

Sounds good to me, except possibly for the amount of sugar.

 

I find rose water very difficult to accommodate.    It's the floral equivalent of sage in its tendency to be boss.    Hermé's Ipsahan series is an example. 

Edited by Margaret Pilgrim (log)

eGullet member #80.

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10 hours ago, JoNorvelleWalker said:

 

Sounds good to me, except possibly for the amount of sugar.

 

 

I find the culture trends to sweet. Rose water I am cool with.

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18 hours ago, JoNorvelleWalker said:

 

Sounds good to me, except possibly for the amount of sugar.

 

 

In these cases sometimes the best bet is to steal the flavor ideas and graft them on to your own base recipes. 

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      I use a different lace mold to make a pattern on the top pot. Now it's time to do the rims. When I did the lace impressions around the pots, I used fondant, because I needed the stretchability of it to conform easily to the shape of the pot. A little stretchiness in this case is good. But when it's time to do the rims, I don't want ANY stretching going on whatsoever.....I want uniformly thick and perfectly straight strips, so for this I'm going to use modeling chocolate, which of course has been colored the same color as the fondant. See the neato embossing on my strip? I found that little embossing wheel at Seattle Pottery Supply, believe it or not, and it was cheap too. The embossers are interchangeable and it came with about 10 different patterns! I rolled out my strip, then embossed the pattern twice (one next to the other) then used my pizza wheel to cut nice straight even edges. I made two top strips and two bottom strips....the bottom strips are just plain.

      And here are the pots with all their details.....

      These guys are going into the walk-in for a while while I work on the other details. Gotta make the baby! First I start with a styrofoam core. The reason for this is for stability and less weight. There was a time in my career when I thought I shouldn't use ANYTHING that wasn't edible, but talk about making life hard. I've made things out of solid modeling chocolate, but they were very heavy and hard to support. Then over the years, I realized that people really don't eat the decorations anyway (except for a few overzealous kids), so I decided to reduce my chocolate expenses and weight by using styrofoam to bulk things out more and more. I pat out a disk of flesh colored modeling chocolate, and place my styrofoam ball in the middle.

      Then I bring the edges up around the ball and squeeze the chocolate together so that no seams show. I stick a couple of skewers in it so that I can hold it in one hand and model it with the other. Then I manipulate it in my surgeon-scrubbed hands to model the face, add a little nose, eyes, mouth, ears, hair and of course, a dimple. The baby head needs to go somewhere while I work on other stuff.....oh, here's a good place.....right in the edge of my equipment box.

      I've been so good about taking pictures at nearly every step! But here's where I fail you.......when I get "in the zone"......meaning that I'm so intent on my little details....I sort of forget about the camera! Here's what I did in between this picture and the next two:
      *made the baby's shoulders and neck and arms out of modeling chocolate
      *sprinkled my cookie dirt inside the pots
      *dusted the centers of my flowers with luster and color, made the calyx's (sp?) and mounted *them on my green skewers
      *rolled modeling chocolate onto a skewer to form the umbrella stem
      *made the bottom banner and wrote on it
      *made the baby's flower bonnet
      I modeled the baby's neck and shoulders, then stuck that right on the top pot. Then I cut the skewers that are coming out of his head to the right length and pushed it down through the neck and shoulders.

      I placed the arms and formed the hands. I stuck my umbrella stem through the arm and down into the cake so there would be adequate support......but darn, I wasn't watching carefully, and the skewer came out of the side of the pot because my angle was a bit off. Oh well, I'll cover that up with a leaf. At least you can see where the umbrella stem is on the skewer. On top of the umbrella stem is a little half dome of modeling chocolate, to support the gumpaste umbrella. I dab a bit of melted white chocolate on that, and stick the umbrella on top. Now all I have to do is place my flowers, mount the banner, and put his little bonnet on.

      And here we have the finished product. It's sort of hard to read the banner....it says, "May Showers Bring Adorable Flowers". One thing I always seem to to do.....I'll shoot the picture of my finished cake and I'm always tired.....so I'm too lazy to find a good backdrop. Then I curse myself later when there's that yukky kitcheny background. God, in one picture I took, my cake had a dirty mop bucket behind it! All I can say is, thank god for Photoshop......I can always "fix" it later.
      It took me 8 hours to put this together and that's not counting all the prep I did the whole week prior. I don't think a whole lot of people realize the time that goes into this stuff.....and it's also why you don't see it very often.
      Anyway, the girl that's getting the baby shower has NO IDEA this is coming. Surprising her is going to be the best part!
      Fast forward to the next day. My boss's wife and I are bringing the box inside the house, then removing the cake from the box. Kids are dancing around us....."is that a CAKE? Is that a CAKE?" People gather round, and the girl who's getting the shower sees it and starts crying. She gives me a big hug and says "I don't know how to thank you!" I told her she just did.
      The shower went on, presents were opened, food was eaten, champagne was sipped.......and then.....it was time......the part that the kids almost couldn't wait for.....time to eat cake! Which of course, means, time to cut cake. And guess who gets to do it. Yep. Me. I don't have to cut my own cakes very often, and that's a good thing. Usually I'm nowhere in the vicinity when my cakes are cut and consumed.....I have only the memory of a photograph and my labor. This time I also do the deconstructing.....and I gotta say it was bittersweet. Especially since knowing it took me 8 hours to build it and only 15 minutes to take it apart. May I say.......wah? Yes. Wah. Luckily I'd had a couple glasses of Mumm's so my "pain" was numbed a bit.......
      Hope you all have enjoyed this bit of cake sculpting. Now back to our regular programming.......
    • By Nn, M.D.
      I'm very excited to share with you all a recipe that I developed for a double crust apple pie.  I had been inspired a few weeks ago to come up with a series of 3-ingredient recipes that would focus on technique and flavor but still be simple enough for the unseasoned chef.  I decided to make an apple pie as a challenge to myself--never having made one before--and as a way to show those who might find pastry intimidating how easy and adaptable it can be.
       
      Basic Shortcrust Pastry
      Ingredients:
      - 300g flour
      - 227g salted butter, cold
      - 2 lemons, zested with juice reserved
       
      1. Cut butter into small chunks.  Beat butter, zest of the 2 lemons, and flour together with an electric mixer OR combine with pastry blender OR rub together with fingers OR blitz in a food processor until it resembles sand.
      2. Add just enough water to bring the mix together into a dough (about 20g for me).  You'll know your pastry is ready when you can press it together and it stays in one piece.
      3. Divide dough in two and wrap tightly with plastic.  Refrigerate for at least 2 hours, or overnight.
      4. When ready to use, roll out each portion to 13 inches in diameter. (I do this between two sheets of parchment paper.  Don't worry too much if the parchment sticks to the pastry. I periodically placed mine in the freezer to help keep everything cold, and the butter will separate from the parchment when frozen.)
      5. Take 1 portion of rolled dough and place it in a 9-inch tart tin with a removable bottom.  Gently press into the sides to ensure even coverage.  Place in the freezer for 30 minutes.  Freeze the other portion of dough in-between the parchment pieces.
       
      Apple Filling (and Assembly)
      - 1 kg apples (I used about 7 apples for this recipe.)
      - 220g dark brown sugar, divided
      - 1 egg, separated
       
      Making the apple butter: 
      1. Cut and core 500g of your apples, but do not peel.  Add cut apples, juice of the one lemon, about 100g or so of water, and 170g of sugar to a large saucepan.
      2. Bring to a boil over high heat, reduce to a simmer and cover.  Let the apples cook for 20-30 minutes or until tender.
      3. Remove from heat and blend until smooth.
      4. Return puree to saucepan and simmer uncovered over low heat, stirring occasionally, for an hour.  Color should deepen and the mixture should thicken slightly, but do not allow it to scorch.
      5. Remove from heat and refrigerate until cool.
       
      Apple filling:
      1. Peel, quarter, and core the remaining 500g of apples. Slice on a mandolin to about 1/8th inch thickness. Place sliced apples in a large bowl of cold water while slicing remaining apples.
      2. Once apples are sliced, drain water and add the juice from the remaining lemon, as well as the remaining 50g of sugar, over the apples. Stir to coat.
       
         
       
      Assembly:
      1. Remove pie base from the freezer.  Dock with a fork and brush on egg white.  Place back in the freezer and allow to set for for about 5-10 minutes.
      2. Pour the entire recipe of apple butter into the pie base and even out with an offset spatula.
      3. Arrange apple slices over the apple butter.
      4. Remove remaining pie dough from the freezer and cut designs in while still cold. Transfer to the surface of the pie and seal overhanging edges.  Trim excess dough.
      5. Brush top pastry with egg yolk (beaten with any remaining egg white) and bake in a 365˚F oven for 60-70 minutes.  Crust should be shiny and golden brown.
      6. Remove from oven and allow to cool completely before removing from tin.
       
      Some notes:
      The reason for using salted butter is I think the flavor incorporates a little better into the mix than if I were to use unsalted butter and added salt.  That being said, you could do that instead, though your recipe would then have 7 ingredients The addition of apple butter here takes the place of the normal apple pie filling, which is usually thickened with cornstarch and is typically quite sweet.  By using the apple butter, I push the flavor of apple forward beyond what you would find in a typically apple pie.  Also, the apple butter acts as a glue of sorts so that my slices are always clean, so no need to resort to adding thickeners or extra sweeteners. I'm always looking for a way around blind baking, and using an egg white seal has worked out very well for me. The egg white creates a water-tight layer between the crust and the filling, so no matter how wet my filling is, the crust will always bake crispy and won't get soggy for as long as the pie is around. Feel free to change this up as you see fit.  Obviously you can spices to this (I recommend cinnamon, clove, and cardamom) but the beauty of this pie is that it's really not necessary.  Although at first blush it may seem one-noted, the harmony between the flaky, almost savory crust and the bright and refreshing filling is one that doesn't need any help, in my honest opinion.  

       
      So there you have it! My 6-ingredient apple pie, sure to become a go-to for me, and hopefully for you as well!
       
    • By ResearchBunny
      Posted 6 hours ago Dear EGulleters,
      ResearchBunny here. I've just found you today. I've been lolling in bed with a bad cold, lost voice, wads of tissues, pillows, bedding around me. I spent all of yesterday binge-watching Season 2 of Zumbo's Just Desserts on Netflix from beginning to grand finale. I have been a hardcore devotee of Rose Levy Beranbaum since the beginning of my baking passion -- after learning that she wrote her master's thesis comparing the textural differences in cake crumb when using bleached versus unbleached flour. I sit up and pay attention to that level of serious and precision! While Beranbaum did study for a short while at a French pastry school, she hasn't taken on the challenge of writing recipes for entremets style cakes. That is, multi-layer desserts with cake, mousse, gelatin, nougatine or dacquoise layers all embedded in one form embellished with ice cream, granita, chocolate, coulis. After watching hours of the Zumbo contest, I became curious about the experience of designing these cakes. Some of the offered desserts struck me as far too busy, others were delightful combinations. I was surprised that a few contestants were eliminated when their offerings were considered too simple or, too sophisticated. So I'd like to hear from you about your suggestions for learning more about how to make entremets. And also, what you think about the show. And/or Zumbo.
      Many thanks.
      RB
      ps. The show sparked a fantasy entremet for my cold. Consider a fluffy matzo ball exterior, with interior layers of carrot, celery, a chicken mince, and a gelatin of dilled chicken broth at its heart!
    • By TexasMBA02
      After batting about .500 with my previous approach to macarons, I came across Pierre Herme's base recipe online.  After two flawless batches of macarons, I've been re-energized to continue to work at mastering them.  Specifically, I want to try more of his recipes.  My conundrum is that he has, as far as I can tell, two macaron cookbooks and I don't know which one I should get.  I can't tell if one is just an updated version of the other or a reissue or what the differences really are.  I was hoping somebody had some insight.  I have searched online and haven't seen both books referenced in the same context or contrasted at all.
       
      This one appears to be older.

       
      And this one appears to be the newer of the two.

       
      Any insight would be helpful.
       
      Thanks,
       
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