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Home Made Ice Cream (2015– )


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[Host's note: to avoid an excessive load on our servers this topic has been split.  The discussion continues from here.]

 

 

Many batches of Apple Pie Ice Cream later and I'm still in love...think it's the crust factor although I am embarrassed to say so.  I've never had cookie dough ice cream, but I imagine it's pretty much in the same category. 

I'm thinking about making Pumpkin Pie Ice Cream...or pretty much any pie ice cream...well, not Lemon Meringue...fruit pies, nut pies,...????   Thanksgiving (in October here in the Far Frozen North) might be a good time to try the Pumpkin idea. 

Edited by lesliec
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Darienne

 

learn, learn, learn...

 

Life in the Meadows and Rivers

Cheers & Chocolates

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Am I the only one that does not like icecream made with fruit because the flavor is always masked by the yolks/cream/milk?

When you get good fruit you just want to eat it like that, in its natural state, so sorbet is the natural option, yet the tendency atleast in portugal is icecream of any flavour over sorbet

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Am I the only one that does not like icecream made with fruit because the flavor is always masked by the yolks/cream/milk?

When you get good fruit you just want to eat it like that, in its natural state, so sorbet is the natural option, yet the tendency atleast in portugal is icecream of any flavour over sorbet

It might depend on the proportions you use. My fruit ice creams, made with nectarines, plums, peaches or raspberries, taste intensely of the fruit in question, but the dairy portion is relatively small in order to keep that flavor.

Nancy Smith, aka "Smithy"
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"Every day should be filled with something delicious, because life is too short not to spoil yourself. " -- Ling (with permission)

"There comes a time in every project when you have to shoot the engineer and start production." -- author unknown

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Many batches of Apple Pie Ice Cream later and I'm still in love...think it's the crust factor although I am embarrassed to say so.  I've never had cookie dough ice cream, but I imagine it's pretty much in the same category. 

I'm thinking about making Pumpkin Pie Ice Cream...or pretty much any pie ice cream...well, not Lemon Meringue...fruit pies, nut pies,...????   Thanksgiving (in October here in the Far Frozen North) might be a good time to try the Pumpkin idea.

I have Apple Crisp ice cream in the works right now, and pumpkin pie lined up. I have made lemon meringue ice cream. It was well received, but I'm not a meringue fan. I just baked a half sheet of meringue until lightly browned and dry. Then, crushed the pieces and added it to the lemon ice cream.

This has got to be one of my favorites: rosemary brown butter with hazelnuts. So good, I may put it with a fig special this weekend.

image.jpg

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Am I the only one that does not like icecream made with fruit because the flavor is always masked by the yolks/cream/milk?

When you get good fruit you just want to eat it like that, in its natural state, so sorbet is the natural option, yet the tendency atleast in portugal is icecream of any flavour over sorbet

 

You're not alone. But this can be a matter of degree. Sorbets are great, but a well made fruit ice cream can be great also. In the sorbet you taste an intensified version of the fruit; in an ice cream you taste fruit and cream. 

 

I agree 100% that the cream should be reduced and the eggs should not be perceptible. I'd suggest thinking more along the lines of what people in the U.S. consider gelato: aim for milk fat between 10 and 12%, and keep the eggs at or below two yolks per 1000g. If you go below this level of yolk, you may want to introduce another source of emulsifier.

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Notes from the underbelly

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I am of the school that ice cream is all about texture, with the rich taste of eggs and cream.  Vanilla is lovely, as are leslie's bay leaves.  But just cream, sugar, and eggs are delightful.  Bright fruit flavors are for sorbet or for mai tais.  Your mileage may vary.

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Many batches of Apple Pie Ice Cream later and I'm still in love...think it's the crust factor although I am embarrassed to say so.  I've never had cookie dough ice cream, but I imagine it's pretty much in the same category. 

 

Darienne,

You have convinced me to try this recipe.  I don't know which type of apple I will use (I agree with you about Delicious, but I find that Granny Smith are often tasteless), but it is the height of apple season here in Virginia, so I will have a wide selection.

 

One question:  Have you ever made it without the xanthan gum?  If so, how much of a problem is the iciness?

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Quick question, how much % fat do you aim for in the icecream base when you then want to add nuts that carry a high fat percentage for example cashew or pistachio that for every 100gr have 44g to 50g fat in them

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Darienne,

You have convinced me to try this recipe.  I don't know which type of apple I will use (I agree with you about Delicious, but I find that Granny Smith are often tasteless), but it is the height of apple season here in Virginia, so I will have a wide selection.

 

One question:  Have you ever made it without the xanthan gum?  If so, how much of a problem is the iciness?

I used Macs from our backyard tree with no problem.  Never tried it without the xanthan gum.  Sorry.  Should add that my ice cream base is always based on cornstarch and half & half.  No eggs.  No full fat cream.  And according to the chief boss the mouth feel is just fine for him.

Darienne

 

learn, learn, learn...

 

Life in the Meadows and Rivers

Cheers & Chocolates

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No more tomatoes this year, so it's back to ice cream on the kitchen counter:

 

heavy cream 1000 g

large egg yolks 6

sugar (sucrose) 120 g

kosher salt pinch

vanilla paste 1 Tablespoon (very approximate)

 

 

The mix (less the vanilla paste which is added just before spinning) brought quickly to 160 deg F on stovetop, then transferred to the Precise Heat Mixing Bowl set to 198 deg F.  Mindful of paulraphael's advice that cream has less milk solids than milk I compensated by reducing the mixture for an hour and forty five minutes rather than an hour in the PHMB.  On speed 2 of the KitchenAid KSM8990WH.

 

I may have over compensated on the milk solids but no matter.  More on that later.  After pouring into the homogenization vessel (my eight inch deep 1/6 hotel pan) temperature was 159 deg F.  Almost perfect.

 

I homogenized five minutes on high then transferred the vessel to an ice bath.  I've found the 8 quart bowl that comes standard with the KSM8990WH makes the perfect ice bath for the homogenization vessel.  The pan comes to the exact height and the corners just touch.  Almost as if they were made for one another.

 

I then refrigerated for about twenty hours.  After stirring in the vanilla paste I spun half the mixture in the Cuisinart for fifteen minutes, without bothering to read the draw temperature.  In my experience the spin time is crucial and the draw temperature, while interesting, is inconsequential to the result.

 

Then I spooned the frozen mix into a shallow hotel pan and deep froze as usual.

 

Ryan, my grandson, proclaimed the result "better than Costco" (a high compliment, I understand, indeed) and stated that there was no longer any need to go out and buy ice cream (from Thomas Sweets, a locally favored purveyor).  He asked if I had a magic wand?  "Why, yes," I said, "I do!"

 

I showed him the BioSpec 1285 and explained what it was for:  "Harry Potter should get a wand like that!"

 

My son questioned that when he was little I served whole cream ice cream that left his mouth coated in fat.  He wondered what was the difference.  I said it's the homogenizer!

 

But sadly I know all was not perfect.  The ice cream was softer that I would have liked.  I think the mix was over reduced.  And unfortunately I do not presently have a good method of monitoring the reduction other than by cooking time.

 

Ryan suggested that I should sell it.  I doubted one could make a profit considering the ingredients and the method.  My son countered it depends on how much you sell it for.

 

It was only later I remembered Ruben is actually doing this commercially.

 

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... unfortunately I do not presently have a good method of monitoring the reduction other than by cooking time.

 

I've only been dropping into the thread occasionally, so apologies if this has been discussed.  My usual way of solving that problem is by using a scale.  Note weight of empty vessel; add liquid being reduced; calculate target weight (including the vessel); weigh as needed while reducing.  If overreduced, it's usually okay to add back a little water.

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I've only been dropping into the thread occasionally, so apologies if this has been discussed.  My usual way of solving that problem is by using a scale.  Note weight of empty vessel; add liquid being reduced; calculate target weight (including the vessel); weigh as needed while reducing.  If overreduced, it's usually okay to add back a little water.

 

The complication is that the Precise Heat Mixing Bowl sits in a commercial KitchenAid Mixer as it cooks.  There are scales that can deal with this kind of weight, but I don't have one.

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Okay.  But, you can move the bowl/cooker (with stirring paddle, if convenient) to the scale and back more easily than you can decant the contents and check by volume.  And of course you'd still use time to decide when to start weighing.  Anyhoo, just a thought.

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I just finished the last batch of ice cream.  (Finished eating, that is.)  Seems the problem yesterday was that I had not allowed sufficient time to harden.  I might have preferred it slightly harder still, however the hardness after another day was now quite acceptable.

 

Wish I had a real blast freezer.

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  • 1 month later...

Good afternoon!

 

Has anyone tried the more scientific method of not heating up the icecream mixture past 71º to help prevent the development of that "eggy" and cooked milk flavour? Start reading about it recently and will definitely try!!

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Good afternoon!

 

Has anyone tried the more scientific method of not heating up the icecream mixture past 71º to help prevent the development of that "eggy" and cooked milk flavour? Start reading about it recently and will definitely try!!

 

Welcome to the discussion, Vasco.  Assuming that's 71 degrees Celsius, much of this thread is relevant.

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Good afternoon!

 

Has anyone tried the more scientific method of not heating up the icecream mixture past 71º to help prevent the development of that "eggy" and cooked milk flavour? Start reading about it recently and will definitely try!!

 

A good evening to you Vasco!

 

I have indeed tried the around 72°C heating method and I for one think it's a marvellous way to make ice cream! :)

 

It takes a bit more time and effort but the results are certainly worth it.

 

Feel free to send any questions my way.

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It seems it is the best way to up the NFSM without adding milk powder although time consuming, have to try :D ALso ruben how did you come across the information that made you decide to do icecream with such a method?

Anyway settings my eyes on making a blood ice cream...have been thinking that ever since I tasted sanguinaccio, that italian chocolate/blood dessert. My question is...the blood replaces the eggs but to stand out as a flavor per say the amount has to be alot more than the usual yolks for a 1L ice cream.

Edited by Vasco (log)
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It seems it is the best way to up the NFSM without adding milk powder although time consuming, have to try..

I'm going to suggest that milk powder is the best way to add MSNF, short of reverse osmosis. The trick is to find a good brand like Now, which 100% skim milk solids, and which is spray dried at low temperatures. If your goal is to concentrate milk solids while exposing them to the minimum amount of heat, you're not going to beat an industrial spray drier with your stove.

 

I've found that with the package sealed in an additional ziploc bag in the freezer, this kind of dry milk lasts months without developing off flavors.

Notes from the underbelly

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Has anyone tried the more scientific method of not heating up the icecream mixture past 71º to help prevent the development of that "eggy" and cooked milk flavour? Start reading about it recently and will definitely try!!

 

I haven't experimented with temperatures below 71C, but did some systematic tests cooking the mix at 72C, 75C, and 80C (sous-vide, with agitation) for times ranging from 15 to 60 minutes.

 

I used a mix that had 2 egg yolks per 1000g (because I don't like a lot of egg) and no flavoring ingredients. It was 10% MSNF. Milk and cream were low-temperature pasteurized, from a local farm coop with grass-fed cows.

 

I did two rounds of blind triangle taste tests on myself, and one round on my girlfriend. 

 

The differences were extremely subtle. So subtle that after tasting four or five samples, fatigue was strong enough that we couldn't tell the difference between any of them anymore. I have doubts that there would be any perceptible difference if the ice cream had any flavor ingredients.

 

I doubt that cooking at 70C would have made much difference.

 

We were not tasting for texture.

Edited by paulraphael (log)
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      *made the bottom banner and wrote on it
      *made the baby's flower bonnet
      I modeled the baby's neck and shoulders, then stuck that right on the top pot. Then I cut the skewers that are coming out of his head to the right length and pushed it down through the neck and shoulders.

      I placed the arms and formed the hands. I stuck my umbrella stem through the arm and down into the cake so there would be adequate support......but darn, I wasn't watching carefully, and the skewer came out of the side of the pot because my angle was a bit off. Oh well, I'll cover that up with a leaf. At least you can see where the umbrella stem is on the skewer. On top of the umbrella stem is a little half dome of modeling chocolate, to support the gumpaste umbrella. I dab a bit of melted white chocolate on that, and stick the umbrella on top. Now all I have to do is place my flowers, mount the banner, and put his little bonnet on.

      And here we have the finished product. It's sort of hard to read the banner....it says, "May Showers Bring Adorable Flowers". One thing I always seem to to do.....I'll shoot the picture of my finished cake and I'm always tired.....so I'm too lazy to find a good backdrop. Then I curse myself later when there's that yukky kitcheny background. God, in one picture I took, my cake had a dirty mop bucket behind it! All I can say is, thank god for Photoshop......I can always "fix" it later.
      It took me 8 hours to put this together and that's not counting all the prep I did the whole week prior. I don't think a whole lot of people realize the time that goes into this stuff.....and it's also why you don't see it very often.
      Anyway, the girl that's getting the baby shower has NO IDEA this is coming. Surprising her is going to be the best part!
      Fast forward to the next day. My boss's wife and I are bringing the box inside the house, then removing the cake from the box. Kids are dancing around us....."is that a CAKE? Is that a CAKE?" People gather round, and the girl who's getting the shower sees it and starts crying. She gives me a big hug and says "I don't know how to thank you!" I told her she just did.
      The shower went on, presents were opened, food was eaten, champagne was sipped.......and then.....it was time......the part that the kids almost couldn't wait for.....time to eat cake! Which of course, means, time to cut cake. And guess who gets to do it. Yep. Me. I don't have to cut my own cakes very often, and that's a good thing. Usually I'm nowhere in the vicinity when my cakes are cut and consumed.....I have only the memory of a photograph and my labor. This time I also do the deconstructing.....and I gotta say it was bittersweet. Especially since knowing it took me 8 hours to build it and only 15 minutes to take it apart. May I say.......wah? Yes. Wah. Luckily I'd had a couple glasses of Mumm's so my "pain" was numbed a bit.......
      Hope you all have enjoyed this bit of cake sculpting. Now back to our regular programming.......
    • By Nn, M.D.
      I'm very excited to share with you all a recipe that I developed for a double crust apple pie.  I had been inspired a few weeks ago to come up with a series of 3-ingredient recipes that would focus on technique and flavor but still be simple enough for the unseasoned chef.  I decided to make an apple pie as a challenge to myself--never having made one before--and as a way to show those who might find pastry intimidating how easy and adaptable it can be.
       
      Basic Shortcrust Pastry
      Ingredients:
      - 300g flour
      - 227g salted butter, cold
      - 2 lemons, zested with juice reserved
       
      1. Cut butter into small chunks.  Beat butter, zest of the 2 lemons, and flour together with an electric mixer OR combine with pastry blender OR rub together with fingers OR blitz in a food processor until it resembles sand.
      2. Add just enough water to bring the mix together into a dough (about 20g for me).  You'll know your pastry is ready when you can press it together and it stays in one piece.
      3. Divide dough in two and wrap tightly with plastic.  Refrigerate for at least 2 hours, or overnight.
      4. When ready to use, roll out each portion to 13 inches in diameter. (I do this between two sheets of parchment paper.  Don't worry too much if the parchment sticks to the pastry. I periodically placed mine in the freezer to help keep everything cold, and the butter will separate from the parchment when frozen.)
      5. Take 1 portion of rolled dough and place it in a 9-inch tart tin with a removable bottom.  Gently press into the sides to ensure even coverage.  Place in the freezer for 30 minutes.  Freeze the other portion of dough in-between the parchment pieces.
       
      Apple Filling (and Assembly)
      - 1 kg apples (I used about 7 apples for this recipe.)
      - 220g dark brown sugar, divided
      - 1 egg, separated
       
      Making the apple butter: 
      1. Cut and core 500g of your apples, but do not peel.  Add cut apples, juice of the one lemon, about 100g or so of water, and 170g of sugar to a large saucepan.
      2. Bring to a boil over high heat, reduce to a simmer and cover.  Let the apples cook for 20-30 minutes or until tender.
      3. Remove from heat and blend until smooth.
      4. Return puree to saucepan and simmer uncovered over low heat, stirring occasionally, for an hour.  Color should deepen and the mixture should thicken slightly, but do not allow it to scorch.
      5. Remove from heat and refrigerate until cool.
       
      Apple filling:
      1. Peel, quarter, and core the remaining 500g of apples. Slice on a mandolin to about 1/8th inch thickness. Place sliced apples in a large bowl of cold water while slicing remaining apples.
      2. Once apples are sliced, drain water and add the juice from the remaining lemon, as well as the remaining 50g of sugar, over the apples. Stir to coat.
       
         
       
      Assembly:
      1. Remove pie base from the freezer.  Dock with a fork and brush on egg white.  Place back in the freezer and allow to set for for about 5-10 minutes.
      2. Pour the entire recipe of apple butter into the pie base and even out with an offset spatula.
      3. Arrange apple slices over the apple butter.
      4. Remove remaining pie dough from the freezer and cut designs in while still cold. Transfer to the surface of the pie and seal overhanging edges.  Trim excess dough.
      5. Brush top pastry with egg yolk (beaten with any remaining egg white) and bake in a 365˚F oven for 60-70 minutes.  Crust should be shiny and golden brown.
      6. Remove from oven and allow to cool completely before removing from tin.
       
      Some notes:
      The reason for using salted butter is I think the flavor incorporates a little better into the mix than if I were to use unsalted butter and added salt.  That being said, you could do that instead, though your recipe would then have 7 ingredients The addition of apple butter here takes the place of the normal apple pie filling, which is usually thickened with cornstarch and is typically quite sweet.  By using the apple butter, I push the flavor of apple forward beyond what you would find in a typically apple pie.  Also, the apple butter acts as a glue of sorts so that my slices are always clean, so no need to resort to adding thickeners or extra sweeteners. I'm always looking for a way around blind baking, and using an egg white seal has worked out very well for me. The egg white creates a water-tight layer between the crust and the filling, so no matter how wet my filling is, the crust will always bake crispy and won't get soggy for as long as the pie is around. Feel free to change this up as you see fit.  Obviously you can spices to this (I recommend cinnamon, clove, and cardamom) but the beauty of this pie is that it's really not necessary.  Although at first blush it may seem one-noted, the harmony between the flaky, almost savory crust and the bright and refreshing filling is one that doesn't need any help, in my honest opinion.  

       
      So there you have it! My 6-ingredient apple pie, sure to become a go-to for me, and hopefully for you as well!
       
    • By ResearchBunny
      Posted 6 hours ago Dear EGulleters,
      ResearchBunny here. I've just found you today. I've been lolling in bed with a bad cold, lost voice, wads of tissues, pillows, bedding around me. I spent all of yesterday binge-watching Season 2 of Zumbo's Just Desserts on Netflix from beginning to grand finale. I have been a hardcore devotee of Rose Levy Beranbaum since the beginning of my baking passion -- after learning that she wrote her master's thesis comparing the textural differences in cake crumb when using bleached versus unbleached flour. I sit up and pay attention to that level of serious and precision! While Beranbaum did study for a short while at a French pastry school, she hasn't taken on the challenge of writing recipes for entremets style cakes. That is, multi-layer desserts with cake, mousse, gelatin, nougatine or dacquoise layers all embedded in one form embellished with ice cream, granita, chocolate, coulis. After watching hours of the Zumbo contest, I became curious about the experience of designing these cakes. Some of the offered desserts struck me as far too busy, others were delightful combinations. I was surprised that a few contestants were eliminated when their offerings were considered too simple or, too sophisticated. So I'd like to hear from you about your suggestions for learning more about how to make entremets. And also, what you think about the show. And/or Zumbo.
      Many thanks.
      RB
      ps. The show sparked a fantasy entremet for my cold. Consider a fluffy matzo ball exterior, with interior layers of carrot, celery, a chicken mince, and a gelatin of dilled chicken broth at its heart!
    • By TexasMBA02
      After batting about .500 with my previous approach to macarons, I came across Pierre Herme's base recipe online.  After two flawless batches of macarons, I've been re-energized to continue to work at mastering them.  Specifically, I want to try more of his recipes.  My conundrum is that he has, as far as I can tell, two macaron cookbooks and I don't know which one I should get.  I can't tell if one is just an updated version of the other or a reissue or what the differences really are.  I was hoping somebody had some insight.  I have searched online and haven't seen both books referenced in the same context or contrasted at all.
       
      This one appears to be older.

       
      And this one appears to be the newer of the two.

       
      Any insight would be helpful.
       
      Thanks,
       
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