Indy Road Trip June 2015

[Kim Shook]

We left on June the 6^th for a visit with friends in Indiana.  Old time eG’ers will remember the incredible and incomparable Racheld who used to write the most wonderful posts there.  Her daughter Caroled still posts here.  We were visiting them and their extended family including Rachel’s husband, C, their DIL K and granddaughter, Miss O.  Rachel and I became email buddies after ‘meeting’ at eG and this was actually our 2^nd visit.  On the way we stopped in Charlottesville, VA for our first breakfast.  Doughnuts at Spudnuts:

 

Not a lot of selection:

 

Just fabulous, soft, delicate doughnuts:

 

Second breakfast was at a cute looking diner in western VA.  Fairly standard food.  We didn’t take pictures and I don’t remember what we ate.  Enough said.

 

We stopped in Ohio for lunch.  Which put us in reach of this fellow:

If all you have is Shoney’s, you may not know the deliciousness that is Frisch’s Big Boy.   Mr. Kim had the pork tenderloin:

This sandwich is something we had never heard of until we lived in Indiana about 25 years ago.  We’ve still never seen it in VA and that is a sad thing.  It is a wondrous sandwich and should be embraced everywhere. 

 

And I had the Big Boy – what the Big Mac is trying to be, but won’t ever be:

 

When we got to Rachel’s we were too busy talking to bother taking pictures, but they served chicken and rice and fabulous Southern long-cooked green beans with potatoes.  She taught me a good trick, too.  They buy rotisserie chickens and pour off the juices and add a little soy sauce to them.  Makes a great little moistening sauce for the chicken or the rice. 

 

On Sunday we had breakfast at Lincoln Square in Indy.  The dishes: 

Cornflake crusted French toast.  Incredibly good.  I will be doing this one at home.  Greek Omelet and perfect hashbrowns:

 

Mickey Mouse pancake:

Gotta love a place that will make a special pancake for a kid.

 

Their gorgeous “Extreme Angus burger”:

If I ever get back to Lincoln Square at lunch time, that’s what I’m having!

 

A Western Omelet:

 

On Monday – Caroled made a lovely brunch:

 

It included perfect hashbrowns, scrambled eggs and crustless quiche:

 

Also croissant French toast, bacon and perfectly ripe and sweet strawberries:

Something that I missed getting a picture of was the topping for the French toast.  She basically stewed fresh plums with sugar and made a syrup chockfull of sliced plums.  It was absolutely ambrosial. 

 

Dinner that night was a group effort.  Caroled made sausages and some of the best baked beans I’ve ever tasted (didn’t get a close shot of the beans):

 

Rachel did a tomato salad, potato salad, and a creamy jalapeno dip (some pictures missing there, too – we were hungry and talkative):

Everything was fresh and delicious.  C did ribs.  Here’s a picture of the groaning board:

C’s ribs were a big surprise.  He does them from raw on the grill in about an hour.  They were very, very good and had a perfect texture: tender without being mushy.  Mr. Kim was paying close attention! 

[Kim Shook]

On Tuesday we had lunch at Shapiro’s Deli in Indy.  I’ve wanted to go here forever.  Rachel posted about it on her eGullet blog and I’ve seen it on TV, too.  The dishes included their famous Rueben:

Completely perfect and perhaps the best rye bread I’ve ever eaten.  The pastrami on rye:

Gorgeous and moist.  The exact right amount of fat.  The chicken salad on an onion roll:

 

I had the peppered beef, a sandwich I’d heard about on Food Network’s show “The Best Thing I Ever Ate”:

I am so glad that I had this.  Different from any deli meat I’ve ever tasted.  Wish we could have brought home a pound or two.  We shared a couple of dishes and desserts.  Lovely chopped liver:

 

Latke:

 

Key lime pie and German chocolate cake:

 

Everything was so good.  We were sorry that we didn’t know about Shapiro’s when we lived in Indiana.

 

On Wednesday – Rachel, Mr. Kim and I took a day trip to where we lived in Indiana - Batesville.  Lunch was at our old favorite Hobo Hut.  Had to take pictures of the oddities (to us) of Indiana menu items – fishtail sandwiches and Manhattans.  Fishtail sandwiches are just triangular shaped fish filets and Manhattans are what Indianans call open faced turkey or roast beef sandwiches with gravy.  Another funny thing that we’ve only seen in Indiana is this:

Anytime we ordered a side of slaw to go with a meal in Indiana, it was served before your meal, as a separate course – like a salad.  It confused us when we first lived there. 

 

Rachel opted for the classic cheeseburger.  Mr. Kim had the daily special – kielbasa, kraut and mashed potatoes (with a side of Wonder bread):

 

I had the pork tenderloin deluxe:

Every bit as good (and as enormous) as I remembered. 

 

The tiny town of Batesville has changed a lot.  Not all good changes - places that we loved were gone and new chain restaurants have opened.  But some changes were great.  One new place is called Dotty’s Bulk Food Basket.  It is similar to the Amish/Mennonite bulk food stores that I’ve encountered.  They have every kind of spice and herb imaginable.  All kinds of specialty flours, baking mixes, dried fruits, candies, etc.  I found some fantastic sprinkly-type stuff in their vast cake/cooky decorating area – colors and designs that I’ve never seen before.  I also found a huge bag of Lucky Charms marshmallow bits that I’ve been looking for (there is never enough in the box).  I’d give a lot to have a store like that here in Richmond.

[Kim Shook]

On Thursday we had what we called our carb-fest breakfast at their house.  It consisted of a delicious cheese/cinnamon coffee cake from Schmidt’s bakery in our old town of Batesville:

 

Doughnuts and cinnamon-raisin bread (also from Schmidt’s):

 

 

And skillet toast with that gorgeous rye bread from Shapiro’s:

 

And for some protein, Rachel’s incomparable ‘Paminna cheese’ to spread on the toast:

 

Dinner started out with some huge shrimp and some fiery cocktail sauce:

 

C grilled steaks and lamb chops:

Marinated and grilled exactly like we all liked them.  Alongside were some vegetable kabobs:

 

Caroled roasted cauliflower (how could eG folks get together and NOT have roasted cauliflower?) and Rachel added some bocconcini and vinegar to the tomato salad:

 

 

Caroled flattered me by requesting that I make my scalloped tomatoes:

 

C and Mr. Kim brought dessert home (as if we needed it – and yet we dug in) from Long’s bakery.  Doughnuts, cinnamon and apple fries (like fritters) and something called a Mary Ann:

 

 

This was about the size of a cupcake – chocolate cake on the bottom, whipped creamy stuff piled on top and the entirety dipped in chocolate.  As she did each evening, Caroled provided a delicious and wonderfully curated cheese course:

 

I have to say that I was amazed and deeply touched by how much trouble these dear folks took to make sure that I had what I liked.  Mr. Kim eats almost anything, but I am so terribly picky.  Very few vegetables, no Indian, no spicy stuff, etc., etc. Rachel even made me my own potato salad leaving out the raw onions and Caroled made two kinds of bacon because she was afraid that the peppered kind would be too hot for me.  

[Kim Shook]

Friday was the day that we left for home.  For breakfast, it was back to Lincoln Square.  We had a delectable banana bread French toast for the table:

 

Mr. Kim had the St. Paddy Benedict:

A Benedict with sublime corned beef hash and sautéed tomatoes.  Gorgeous shot of perfectly cooked poached eggs:

 

C opted for the Apple Turkey Club:

Turkey, bacon (lots of it), sliced apple and all the rest.  My eG friends will be glad to see the absence of ham and cheese  . 

 

I had the biscuit platter:

Under the eggs is a biscuit with some of the best, most sausage-y gravy I’ve ever had.  I have had so much so-called sausage gravy that was just cream gravy with some sausage tossed in at the last minute.  This stuff had the sausage flavor through and through.

 

I think that Rachel just nibbled at the banana bread French toast, but Caroled had some sort of omelet:

 

We said our sad goodbyes and headed off to VA via Ohio and West Virginia.  While in Ohio, we stopped for a double lunch, while still in reach of two old favorites.  We each had a slider at White Castle:

An appetizer, if you will.  The main course was here:

 

When we moved to Indiana, we got our first taste of Cincinnati chili.  We’d never even heard of it before.  We instantly fell in love with it.  I know a lot of people object to it for various reasons, but we don’t.  I like all sorts of chili, BBQ and even Club sandwiches  .  A Coney (no onion):

 

4-way with beans:

 

Bite:

 

This was the last of the trip pictures, since dinner was in WV at 10pm at Arby’s.  Filling, hardly picture-worthy!  It was a wonderful, chatter and laughter-filled trip.  I’ve said before that I’m now ashamed of myself for years ago calling my daughter’s online pals ‘imaginary’ friends.  It is so true.  I’ve made so many online friends – some I’ve met and some I haven’t – that have been true, caring people in my life.  They have helped me when I’ve had questions, been concerned about troubles in my life and remembered my challenges and stepped in to assist.  I do my share of complaining about the internet and its influence, but when I think of all the friends that I’ve made through eG, I’m very grateful.

[racheld]

AWWW, Sweetpea!   What a treat just at bedtime!!   It's a lovely chronicle of whatever was in front of as we talked and laughed and talked and giggled, guffawed, chuckled and hee-hawed our way through the week.   My face hurt from laughing, and it was all such happy chaos, running back and forth between two floors (did you mention that my kitchen has been out of commission for two months?? and whatever we needed---including water or ice or the forgotten thing---was always either up or down eleven steps. 

 

We did barely anything of all the notes and plans I made for months before, of cooking and planning and going and doing, and just flowed right along with all the fun of a full house and crowded table.   Loved it.  

 

And Y'all.

 

r

[Smithy]

What a great trip! How nice to see old friends (and have them reappear here) and fun, and great food.... The deli offerings were especially photogenic, but all of it looked great. How nice of Caroled and C and Rachel to show such hospitality! I'm sure the camaraderie was the most delicious of all.

[demiglace]

Oh my what a wonderful trip. The food, as expected, looked awesome. So glad you all had so much fun. Thanks for sharing Kim. Racheld is such a treat!! 

[Smithy]

I complimented the deli food but the true stars were the home meals. Those salads! Those meats! And I might even become a convert to paminna cheese if I were to try Rachel's version.

Mr. Kim paid careful attention to how one gets perfect ribs in an hour over the grill? Can you share what you learned?

Once again, thanks for posting. It looks like a lovely trip.

[SylviaLovegren]

Yum!  That's all I gotta say. 

[Shelby]

Oh where to start??????  EVERYTHING looks SO dang good.  The meats, the cheeses, the scalloped tomatoes (groan I want those right now for breakfast) the breakfasts, the donuts, oh and that Cinci chili.  And perfect ribs.  You can't beat perfect ribs.  I'm glad you guys had such a great time!  And, Rachel!!!  So good to see you again.  I miss you around here!  I read your blog...I hope your new pink kitchen is almost done

[Thanks for the Crepes]

Thank you for taking the time to share your trip with us, Kim.

 

It was such a treat to see all the wonderful food, and hear about the good times you shared with Rachel and her family!

[rotuts]

when I was about 7 or so, we used to travel S. and stay the summer in Arizona, and camp.

 

on the way we stopped in LosAngeles  ( Eagle Rock ) and stayed with my fathers great aunt for a few days.  to me she seemed to be, at the time

 

about a million years old. 

 

she took us to a Big Boy restaurant for my birthday, for several years.

 

I remember this vividly.  and of course, I had a BigBoy.

 

your description is spot on.  I wonder if they are as good now as back then.

 

Ill never forget those visits.  they were the best ever, and always will be.

[huiray]

Which Shapiro's did you go to?  You don't show a wide-enough establishing shot to be sure but the tables look more like the downtown one on S Meridian St.  I suspect you did not go to the new one at Keystone - or am I mistaken? (I believe caroled lives in that area) (The Shapiro's on S Rangeline in Carmel has closed)

 

Personally I find Shapiro's nice but not a place to go out of one's way for.  Come to think of it there was one time I had a Reuben at the S Meridian St one and they forgot the sauerkraut.  I firmly requested some and they brought me some ... cold tasteless sauerkraut on a plate.

 

Thinking about your comments about the rye bread at Shapiro's - if you were at the S Meridian location did you and company consider a swing by Amelia's (still currently operating out of Bluebeard) (which is not far away) to pick up some nice bread? 

 

I assume you knew you could get Skyline Chili in Indy.  (There's one not far from the Keystone area, on 82nd & Craig, in the Castleton Mall area)  :-)  

 

Regarding the peppered beef - it's too late for you now, but caroled might like to know (if she doesn't already) that one can also get it, housemade, at Claus' German Sausage & Meat.  I wonder if Shapiro's makes theirs in-house.

Edited June 25, 2015 by huiray (log)

[Darienne]

What a wonderful trip you had and such sumptuous food layouts.  As Sylvia says:  Yum.  And thanks for going to all the trouble of sharing your trip, your food and your friends with us.  I really enjoyed reading it all.

 

We travel through Indiana twice a year at least and I had no idea of the delights which we knew nothing about. 

[huiray]

 

We travel through Indiana twice a year at least and I had no idea of the delights which we knew nothing about. 

 

Well, Indiana Pork Tenderloin sandwiches have certainly been described here on eG in the past - both by myself and by others.  Fine dining in Indy has grown by leaps and bounds over the last decade or so, but I suppose you do not know (or care?) about that.  Other stuff (so many) such as probably the last place (commercially) where Fried Chicken is done by frying in pure lard is found in Indy.  (See: Hollyhock Hill; which also provides an "escape" into a world of what your granny may have experienced) (Or what some has said to be the best "Southern syle" pan-fried chicken in the area - plus wonderful hot water corn bread - at Mississippi Belle)  And so on, even if one ignores the "ethnic scene" which in Indy has become quite, quite broad.  ;-) 

Edited June 25, 2015 by huiray (log)

[Anna N]

Sounds like you had a wonderful time getting together with old friends. Thanks so much for sharing.

[Kerry Beal]

Thanks Kim - enjoyed the report. Would kill a piece of that keylime pie right about now!

[suzilightning]

Wow ... loved your trip.

 

Now I REALLY want to start planning a Lincoln Highway or Rt.66 trip and check out some of those places.....

[caroled]

I'm gonna chime in here. Kim we can't even begin to tell you and Mike how much we enjoyed your visit. What fun... can't believe it came and went so quickly.

Huiray, , as far as Shapiros, yes we did go to the downtown location. I knew the Carmel location had

closed, and was not aware of a new Keystone location. Besides, the first one I ever went to when visiting Indy before moving here was the original location. We also love their rye bread and my dad will often stop by and grab a loaf and a pound of corned beef to bring home. I did mention Claus's as we were driving over to Shapiros as an after lunch excursion, but everyone was too full to contemplate even looking at more food

;-) ( we'll have that little field trip to look forward to later)

We did see the Skyline Chili as we were heading home from Penzeys on 82nd, I think that added to Kim's craving. I myself have never been.

Not familiar with Amelia's. Will have to check it out.

Hollyhock Hill was one of the places visited during Kim's last trip to us. ( MSN had it listed as #32 on a list of the 50 best fried chicken places in the US...don't know who decides these things).

And no Shelby, I ate the rest of those tomatoes around 3:00 am the next morning, so you can't have them!

[huiray]

caroled,

 

Thanks for the response!  Well, Claus' one day, then... :-)  NOTE:  The retail area is not a big place, so please don't expect a humongous display of food. Rather, it just has a whole bunch of nice stuff available, including stuff that one asks for.

 

Regarding Mississippi Belle - if ever you find yourself in that area of town one day, consider dropping by.  They have other nice stuff as well besides their pan-fried chicken & hot water corn bread --- like nice pulled pork, or fried catfish (Fridays). Caution: CASH ONLY.  And, if you are still hungry afterwards, walk over to the Pawn Shop Pub for one of the better Indiana Pork Tenderloin sandwiches around (and nice onion rings).  :-) 

[kayb]

Great travelogue, Kim. And as for on-line friends -- I have a group I met through another forum whom I've formed close friendships with over an almost 20-year span (dating back to the days of AOL dial-up and 20 hours per month at 19.95...!); we get together every so often, coming from all over the country, to spend a weekend together somewhere, and I've visited in many of their homes as well as they in mine. It's a wonderful thing.

 

Not tremendously familiar with the cuisine in Indy, but I do love St. Elmo's steakhouse. And an Indiana pork tenderloin sandwich is a thing of beauty. 

 

In fact, I have some pork loin chops in the freezer. I could pound those thin......

[Kim Shook]

I complimented the deli food but the true stars were the home meals. Those salads! Those meats! And I might even become a convert to paminna cheese if I were to try Rachel's version.

Mr. Kim paid careful attention to how one gets perfect ribs in an hour over the grill? Can you share what you learned?

Once again, thanks for posting. It looks like a lovely trip.

Smithy - I've sent Mr. Kim a message asking him to give me the info to pass on.  Maybe Caroled could chime in here, too, since she lives with the fellow.

 

huiray – we saw plenty of Skylines and White Castles in Indy.  Just too busy with our visit to bother stopping.  It made the perfect on the way home lunch.  Funny you should mention Hollyhock Hill.  We ate there on our last visit to see Racheld and Caroled.  We loved it.  As southerners we were surprised at how good the fried chicken was in Indiana when we lived there.  Rachel’s husband calls Indiana the northernmost southern state and the fried chicken bears that out!