Yard Sale, Thrift Store, Junk Heap Shopping (Part 2)

[andiesenji]

4 minutes ago, rotuts said:

I do not have that cleaver, but I have 5 globals, in the knife category.   the steel is difficult to sharpen.

 

depending on what you plan to use that cleaver for, consider getting it professionally sharpened if you want to do more delicate work with it.

 

congratulations.  fantastic find.

I have the electric ChefsChoice Diamond Hone angle select sharpener that can be set from 15 to 20 degrees so it works with both American/Euro and Asian blade angles.

It puts a fine edge on my Global knives as well as on my Wusthof blades.  

It was expensive but I was paying that much every year to have my knives sharpened professionally and those just the ones I use all the time.  

[Shel_B]

7 minutes ago, rotuts said:

I do not have that cleaver, but I have 5 globals, in the knife category.   the steel is difficult to sharpen properly

 

depending on what you plan to use that cleaver for, consider getting it professionally sharpened by someone who knows what they are doing and Global steel, if you want to do more delicate work with it.

 

congratulations.  fantastic find.

 

I'm glad you brought up the issue of sharpening, as I was curious about the best way to sharpen this puppy.  To start with, at what angle should it be sharpened?  How do I know the pro will do it right?  Thanks!

[andiesenji]

31 minutes ago, Shel_B said:

I'm glad you brought up the issue of sharpening, as I was curious about the best way to sharpen this puppy.  To start with, at what angle should it be sharpened?  How do I know the pro will do it right?  Thanks!

I don't have a Global cleaver but I called my pal Ben, who I know has one and asked him.  He said the cleaver is not as "fussy" to sharpen as the knives.  It is ground on both sides instead of on one side like the knives.  

He uses it a lot for small jobs that don't require chopping through heavy bones, does poultry and such.  He has a bigger, heavier cleaver for beef and pork bones but this one handles nice for small, tight jobs.  

He uses a Messermeister diamond "steel" the 12 inch.  About 30 bucks and it sharpens, hones and "dresses" the blade perfectly - his words.

He says he puts the cleaver edge side up with the end on the edge of the butcher block and draws the steel down the length of it at about a 20 degree angle.  He said it is easier to do it this way because you can see what you are doing easier.   

[rotuts]

Cleavers do many things.  Id do the very heavy work with a BB&B cleaver  ( 20 % Off !)  there kind you would find in the blister-packed section.

 

don't spend a lot there, just not too little.  If you ever get to a real Chinatown, they have all steel cleavers there that are numbers.  get one of theses, or a blister-pack

 

BB cleaver of the same size or the next one up.  thats for the heavy work.

 

use this one for finer things :  soft chicken-bone chop-ups, etc

 

look the Global over for nicks.  use any magnifying glass you have or borrow one 10 x or 20 x is all you need in good light.

 

Globals are gems for balance , holding a very sharp edge if used carefully etc.

 

I don't know what Golbal itself recommends for the edge angle for the cleaver, but you might Google that up.

 

go to a decent knife store if you can find one in your area, or consider 

 

if you want to have a great deal of fun go here :

 

http://www.knifeforums.com

 

that's where I learned so much about Global Steel.

 

best of luck.

 

of course, store it carefully as you would any fine knife os the edge does not get damaged in storage  

Edited May 23, 2016 by rotuts (log)

[Tere]

Last year, we bought a beautiful  and very costly set of knives in Japan, threw out my perfectly serviceable perpetuals  (I am Not a Purist, apologies) and I have not been able to touch them since. My husband is all about the best, but I am the cook in the house and when I was bouncing off tomatoes because I wasn't "allowed" to touch them after six months I cracked and shrieked at him. He occasionally sharpens them when I get to critical point.

 

We have a full set of very nice I think Japanese sharpening stones.

 

Is there any way I could get to a basic regime? I can read Japanese and can figure out I think what the bits are for.

 

(Sorry, I will try to look for references. It's just become another gated skill to learn for me). I know there is a ton of stuff on the web but are there any basics? Help?

[Shel_B]

2 hours ago, Shel_B said:

I'm glad you brought up the issue of sharpening, as I was curious about the best way to sharpen this puppy.  To start with, at what angle should it be sharpened?  How do I know the pro will do it right?  Thanks!

 

I believe I found a place that will sharpen the cleaver.  I've known of this place for years, but I didn't think they worked with knives.  It's a Japanese tool company just a few minutes from my front door.   https://www.hidatool.com/

 

[Smithy]

12 hours ago, Tere said:

Last year, we bought a beautiful  and very costly set of knives in Japan, threw out my perfectly serviceable perpetuals  (I am Not a Purist, apologies) and I have not been able to touch them since. My husband is all about the best, but I am the cook in the house and when I was bouncing off tomatoes because I wasn't "allowed" to touch them after six months I cracked and shrieked at him. He occasionally sharpens them when I get to critical point.

 

We have a full set of very nice I think Japanese sharpening stones.

 

Is there any way I could get to a basic regime? I can read Japanese and can figure out I think what the bits are for.

 

(Sorry, I will try to look for references. It's just become another gated skill to learn for me). I know there is a ton of stuff on the web but are there any basics? Help?

 

You may find this eGCI course useful: Knife Maintenance and Sharpening. There is also an associated Q&A session; the course contains a link to it at the end.

[Tere]

Brilliant, thank you!

 

I also managed to find a video of Hirano-sensei doing his stuff. We bought our knives from him, and he's lovely.

 

 

I think I should probably buy a slightly cheaper knife to practice with. Or possibly attack the Ikea set I have in one of my holiday lets, to get my confidence up!

[boilsover]

On 5/23/2016 at 4:59 PM, Tere said:

Is there any way I could get to a basic regime? I can read Japanese and can figure out I think what the bits are for.

 

 

 

Yes.  I recommend finding a really good pro sharpener who offers classes.  For instance, Bob Kramer taught Bob Tate here in Seattle, and he teaches classes to mortals.

 

My dad was a butcher, and I bladesmith as a hobby, so I know sharp.  But either you have the touch, or you don't.  Despite having a basement full of all the $$ and $$$ stones, belt grinders, microtome parphenalia, etc., I mostly don't have it.  An hour with a skilled pro sharpener should determine if you do.  If so, knock yourself out.  If not, pay the pro to do it once a year.  No powered wheels like Chef's Choice...

Edited May 26, 2016 by boilsover
I can't type. (log)

[cwfenn]

Every so often I've seen a good deal on woot.com.  Got some good ice cream containers there.  Have to look carefully though, since there are plenty of duds there too.

[chefmd]

Soda stream for 9 dollars, cartridge included.  Looks brand new.

[Deryn]

I recently gave a brand new SodaStream (was about 7 months old, purchased for a one night visit my daughter made last year but it had never been used) to my neighbour for her grandkids. I had inserted the CO2 container unfortunately but it was still making noises when the top was pressed. However it was soon evident that when the seal is broken, leakage occurs. I felt badly that the unit didn't 'deliver' the carbonation as promised so I went out and purchased another CO2 unit and several very large flavour bottles - and the cost came to nearly what I paid new for the unit. The 'accessories' that make the gadget work as advertised are not cheap. I am not sure that the plastic container that houses the CO2 bottle is worth too much more than what you paid to be honest (unless the cartridge was never inserted) - but I hope you enjoy it.  

Edited June 12, 2016 by Deryn (log)

[boilsover]

Unused Mauviel 4.9Q beating bowl for $7 at a garage sale this weekend.  Marked Williams-Sonoma.

[ElsieD]

2 minutes ago, boilsover said:

Unused Mauviel 4.9Q beating bowl for $7 at a garage sale this weekend.  Marked Williams-Sonoma.

 

Nice score!

[Porthos]

On 2/12/2016 at 4:02 PM, Porthos said:

I needed to go into Orange County to meet up with my older daughter. Since we met near my favorite Goodwill in that area I stopped by there after we parted company. I found a larger steamer insert, with a handle, for my Revere pan. I do a lot of steaming.

 

Happy camper here. I recently found a second insert. Having the pan-style handle is so much better that gripping either a pair of "ears" or metal handles with potholders. I sent my 3-piece Bialeti steamer on to a thrift store. I used both of the Revere inserts Saturday night making dinner for my FIL.

Edited June 13, 2016 by Porthos
better phrasing. (log)

[Porthos]

It's been a while since I found any cast iron to restore. My continued looking paid off today.

 

Griswold #6, from the mid-fifties as best as I can tell. $2.00 USD

 

 

This is a post-1960 unnamed pan. It still has the weight and surface finish of a vintage piece.   It is a number 8. The size number is on the top of the handle in a raised, rounded font. There is no heat ring on the bottom.

 

On the back ARE two lines of text:

 

      10 1/2 INCH SKILLET

          MADE IN USE

 

My best guess would be Lodge but I really don't know.  This was also $2 USD.

 

 

Restoration will have to wait for late fall. I'm not running the self-clean cycle on my oven in the summer or early fall.

[blue_dolphin]

Nice cast iron finds, @Porthos!  Usually in the thrifts I find cast iron that's priced awfully high so you done good!

[Porthos]

@blue_dolphin price-wise this was an exceptional find.

[andiesenji]

The unmarked skillet is a Wagner - one of those made for and sold thru Sears.  They are the same quality as the contemporary 1950s Wagner skillets.  Should have an "8" on the top of the handle and there is usually a letter near the edge of the bottom from "A" to "X"  denoting date of manufacture - The very first ones did not have a letter.  

Also the hole in the handle is the right shape and there should be a "scoop" on the underside.

 

I had several of these and recently sold the last one a #12,  14 1/2 inch skillet.   They do usually have a fairly nice milled interior bottom that is fairly smooth.  Not as slick as the Griswolds from earlier decades but much better than the ones made later.

 

Edited June 30, 2016 by andiesenji (log)

[Porthos]

@andiesenji Thank you.

[Thanks for the Crepes]

@andiesenji,

 

I agree on Porthos' skillet. It looks a lot like my Wagner Ware one. Mine has the same shaped hole in the handle and pouring spouts on either side. It has the number 8 etched or stamped (rather than embossed or raised) at the base on top of the handle where it meets the body of the skillet.

On the flip side, it says Wagner Ware, but only the "NE and WARE", one under the other, is still legible. The W in "Ware" is that stylized logo with two overlapping curved V shapes. This is at the top edge of the skillet away from the handle. This may be due to age or abuse. I can't say, because I acquired it about 17 years ago at a yard sale. At the bottom of the underside of the skillet nearest the handle, it says, "10-1/2" SKILLET" and a line underneath says, "MADE IN USA". Those are the only markings, and they are all sunken into the metal rather than raised. Also the inside of the hole in the handle is rough except where it would contact a nail or hook in comparison to finish of the rest of the skillet.

 

Do you have any idea when mine was manufactured? You are very knowledgeable about such things.

 

Hauling it out for close inspection prompted me to reseason it when I noticed a small spot on the bottom that was trying to rust. The inside is still black and glassy, though.

[andiesenji]

20 hours ago, Thanks for the Crepes said:

@andiesenji,

 

I agree on Porthos' skillet. It looks a lot like my Wagner Ware one. Mine has the same shaped hole in the handle and pouring spouts on either side. It has the number 8 etched or stamped (rather than embossed or raised) at the base on top of the handle where it meets the body of the skillet.

On the flip side, it says Wagner Ware, but only the "NE and WARE", one under the other, is still legible. The W in "Ware" is that stylized logo with two overlapping curved V shapes. This is at the top edge of the skillet away from the handle. This may be due to age or abuse. I can't say, because I acquired it about 17 years ago at a yard sale. At the bottom of the underside of the skillet nearest the handle, it says, "10-1/2" SKILLET" and a line underneath says, "MADE IN USA". Those are the only markings, and they are all sunken into the metal rather than raised. Also the inside of the hole in the handle is rough except where it would contact a nail or hook in comparison to finish of the rest of the skillet.

 

Do you have any idea when mine was manufactured? You are very knowledgeable about such things.

 

Hauling it out for close inspection prompted me to reseason it when I noticed a small spot on the bottom that was trying to rust. The inside is still black and glassy, though.

These were made for Sears and other retailers beginning in 1950 with just the size designation and a small letter. In 1960 they added the MADE IN USA line.

 

[Anna N]

 

 

We are up in Manitoulin and as we unpacked our closet and retrieved all of our treasured pots and pans we were reminded of this thread and recent finds. This too is a thrift shop bargain from a few years back. We are submitting it for an expert opinion from Andie. 

 

On on the base I can read: No. 5 8 1/2 IN.

Edited July 2, 2016 by Anna N (log)

[andiesenji]

That little hole in the handle and the "scoop and ridge" underneath  show that this is a *BSR skillet with heat ring.

 

*Birmingham Stove and Range co.   Made between 1949 and 1968.  The small size of the pour spouts show this was the "Century" series made in the 1950s.  In 1960 the Made in USA across the "top" opposite the handle, was added.

 

This size is fairly common and not expensive, sell in the low 20s unless in near pristine condition.  

 

If you come across a #8 or a #3 with the same characteristics, they are worth $150.00  and $75.00.  

Edited July 2, 2016 by andiesenji
Correct the date I enter wrong. Should be 1949 instead of 1959 (log)

[Anna N]

1 hour ago, andiesenji said:

That little hole in the handle and the "scoop and ridge" underneath  show that this is a *BSR skillet with heat ring.

 

*Birmingham Stove and Range co.   Made between 1959 and 1968.  The small size of the pour spouts show this was the "Century" series made in the 1950s.  In 1960 the Made in USA across the "top" opposite the handle, was added.

 

This size is fairly common and not expensive, sell in the low 20s unless in near pristine condition.  

 

If you come across a #8 or a #3 with the same characteristics, they are worth $150.00  and $75.00.  

 

Thank you. We would not sell it for all the tea in China or all the rice in India. It is a terrific little pan that we were just kind of curious about.