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Everything posted by boilsover

  1. boilsover

    Plastic wrap improvement

    Looked promising until I checked the dimensions. This thing is 14" wide and my wrap drawer is only 13.25". We have a countertop moratorium, so no go. Otherwise I woulda bit...
  2. Even at that price, it's still $500 too expensive
  3. Ah, I was remembering d5, which Franz scored a relatively poor 109.7 on gas. The d7 did much better at 82.3, but still less even than the Proline. On electric, it was much closer. There's slightly more than 2mm of aluminum in d7, whereas Proline contains approximately 4mm.
  4. The hefty part I get. The heat-distribution part not so much. My impression from the truly thoughtful reviews (e.g., Centurylife.org) is that the good 'ol All-Clad triply is the best clad line they offer in terms of moving heat. The original selling point of d7 was not that it was even, but that it retained heat, e.g., "Holds heat like cast iron, only 30% lighter!" They claimed d5 was even, but the concept of interleaving thin alternating layers of poorly-conductive steel just isn't all that persuasive to me. I think Centurylife's testing and FLIR imagery bears this out.
  5. boilsover

    DARTO pans

  6. Let's try it a different way, then. I would not buy a 700 or 900W unit if you were hoping to SV in a 30Q cooler.
  7. Well, up to a point, yes. However, as the volume of bathwater and thermal mass of the food contents go up, a lower powered unit would have to work longer and harder to keep up. This is especially so when using uninsulated containers. I was in a retail store recently that was selling an immersion "stick" circulator that was unknown to me. What struck me was that its instructions warned not to use the unit in a container holding more than X of water, and X wasn't a lot.
  8. Ah, you've given up the secret! The BB&B cashwrap clerks HATE the fact that they have to tell customer after customer that their coupon doesn't apply to X. Some hate it so much they will give you a discount anyway in simple acts of retribution against their corporate overlords. To maximize the chances of success, I have learned to respond to the bad news with something like: "Oh, that's OK. I bet you get so tired of having to tell people that. I made a special trip here to use this coupon. Isn't there something you or your manager can do to help me out?'" This has worked twice for me with replacing Breville "Smart" Ovens that CATO-d. I think one time the clerk upgraded me to the Pro without any upcharge.
  9. Actually, IME they usually exclude Breville.
  10. On the heels of the thread about the Polyscience/Breville ControlFreak, it appears all-metal induction hobs have now arrived in USA. The Panasonic KY-MK3500 is a 208/220v single phase hotplate that should operate on any home circuit that is wired for coil or radiant ranges. It is rated to 3500 Watts at the "old" 24kHz frequency (ferromagnetic pans), and 2500 Watts at the 90kHz frequency chosen for aluminum and copper, and switches automatically between the two. Panasonic claims its temperature settings and IR sensors operate through the solid glass rather than by a button probe or thermistor mounted on the underside of the glass. There is also a lighted ring around the hob to indicate operation and high temperature. https://shop.panasonic.com/support-only/KY-MK3500.html The unit retails for an average of $2,400, but one retailer was offering it for only $611, so I ordered one. https://www.ckitchen.com/p/panasonic-ky-mk3500-met-all-induction-range.html Edit: I now see it is listed at $1,700! Amazon has it at $2,250. See, also: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kQjP3E8aB4A
  11. Yes, the interface disks work--after a fashion. Using them emulates sitting the pot on an AGA, solid top or placque. The loss in efficiency is an overblown disadvantage, IMO. The big problem is that the interface plates don't play well with induction hobs' electronics--you run a real risk of overheating and CATO-ing the appliance. And of course you're reduced to moving the pan in order to quickly reduce the heat, as with a solid top.
  12. I'll ask, but my own guess is the power limitation at the 90kHz (non-ferromagnetic) frequency has to do with safety.
  13. LOL, I haven't been missing anything. I've been cooking on induction off and on for a couple of years now. IMO, until now, choosing induction has precluded using the very best cookware. Gas may still be a better mode, but at least there's no longer a reason to compromise with--or discard--cookware.
  14. boilsover

    Kitchen / Dining Area Renovation

    I can be crabby, so...
  15. boilsover

    Kitchen / Dining Area Renovation

    I have seen some modern homes with a secondary "butler's" kitchen, which can basically do it all. I know one couple who have this setup (and one outdoors) and never use any of them.
  16. boilsover

    Kitchen / Dining Area Renovation

    Please tell me you didn't roast that baby?
  17. boilsover

    Kitchen / Dining Area Renovation

    Looks like a high level of modern finish, especially for a Victorian. It's odd how fashions change. I was in a 1907 bourgeosis mansion in Paris last year, and back then, the worst possible feature a house could have was the sight and smell of cooking! The architect included massive concrete caissons and a huge ventilation system to make sure the dining experience was only on the family's plates. Even the staff dining area was isolated.
  18. I've lived all over. When it's really hot, I cook outside, regardless of the modality du jour. I've heard people say that ##5 and 7 can be interrelated, i.e., that cooking with gas indoors in a hot climate under A/C increases the utility bill for cooling. This sounds to me like a First World problem.
  19. Bravo! Reasons why some love them (in my opinion's order of precedence): 1. Convenience. People like glass cooktops, but people tend to hate radiant glass tops. They wipe (mostly) clean, and you can treat the glass like a countertop extension when you're not cooking. 2. No real choice. Many induction users would prefer gas, but don't have it available or not at a reasonable price to run lines. Coil and radiant aren't serious contenders. Likewise with venting--many people can't or won't put in a good hood for a high output gas range. 3. Control. What is really means is repeatability. If you have 20 settings and you learn that 7 is right for X, you can set 7 every time. Whereas with other modalities, you actually have to be more discerning. 4. Aesthetic and Fashionable. They tend to "disappear", and technophiles congratulate themselves on how "advanced" the modality is. It's (and they're) so advanced, they don't mind fooling with touchpads and tubercular glowing digital displays. 5. Cooler. If you cook a lot indoors in hot climates, this is an advantage. I say, "if you can't stand the heat..." 6. Safety. People think they and their little ones won't burn themselves. This is not true, but they may not get burned as badly and you can't turn on a vacant hob accidentally. 7. Energy Savings. This isn't true, either, when you take into account the entire utility infrastructure(s). Electricity savings over coil and radiant is real but tiny. Cooktop energy consumption is an insignificant fraction of an average USA household's energy use.
  20. Well, all-metal would be nice, as would be meaningful/accurate temperature settings and more granular power settings. And maybe a control knob?
  21. Well, I learned this from a book written by the "Omelet King", Chef Rudy Stanish. See, http://www.post-gazette.com/news/obituaries/2008/02/12/Obituary-Rudolph-B-Stanish-Omelet-king-for-the-rich-and-famous/stories/200802120223 It's not seasoning in the same sense as people talk about for cast iron and carbon steel, and doesn't last as long. It doesn't leave any discernible layer of polymerized oil, either. Here's how I was taught. Pick a high smoke point cooking oil. Pour in a 1/8" layer of oil in the pan, and heat it up slowly. As it comes up, wipe the interior of the pan as high as you like. Heat to just below the smoke point temperature (If you don't have a thermometer, up to the point where the oil shimmers actively). Watch for runnels or "tears" of oil on the walls, and wipe them smooth. You do not want the oil to show yellow anywhere or smoke. Remove from the heat and let the pan cool to room temperature. Dump about a 1/4 cup of kosher salt into the cooled oil, and scrub the slurry vigorously with a rag all around the pan. Dump the oily salt and wipe clean. You're done. Some cooks do this a couple times. You can make this "seasoning" last longer by thereafter only cleaning the pan with more oil+salt scrubs, i.e., no soap or other surfactants. And the maximum nonstick effect is attained if you dedicate one pan to eggs and crepes. It's still stickier than Teflon, but I think you'll be impressed. The process works on SS pan linings, too.
  22. YVW. Really, unless you can comfortably lift thick copper, thick aluminum really can't be beat in terms of thermal performance, and is the undisputed champ for value. But why sell you a $20 pot when a maker can talk you into forking over $200 or $400? And did you know you can also "season" aluminum pans?
  23. LOL, no, of course not. IMO, there isn't a health concern, no matter what you cook or or how long. The concerns are taste and color, and I don't even credit those very much. Can 80% of restaurants worldwide be wrong? Let's take a peek down the rabbithole, shall we? Aluminum has a semi-unique property whereby it (and its alloys used in bare cookware) doesn't stay bare. It oxidizes or "passivates" very quickly in the presence of oxygen. How quickly? About the time it takes for you to wash, dry and put away your pan. What you're actually cooking on is aluminum oxide, which is harder and less reactive than pure aluminum. You can think of aluminum pans as being self-healing. That's all hard anodizing is, BTW, except that HA creates a much thicker oxide layer. Aluminum's astonishingly fast oxidation is the reason why there is virtually no metallic aluminum to be found in nature, despite the fact that it's the third most common element on Earth.
  24. Yes, they're comparable. Even the thickest ones are far lighter than ECI. In my opinion, the only downside (and it is somewhat overblown) is reactivity over long cooktimes with salty, acidic foods. Do you make much tomato sauce and sauerkraut? I sold the vast majority of my Le Creuset when I realized they're poor performers for most things. I didn't get much for them, which is Exhibit A for my stupidity in buying it all in the first place. French + Pretty + Expensive + MtH (Marketed to the Heavens) must be good, right?
  25. Yes, it will require a different plug/receptacle. That makes sense, when you consider that the most powerful induction hotplates wired for 110VAC are only 1800W output. High-performance home induction ranges offer greater power, up to the 3500W max of this hotplate. Similarly, most home coil ranges are around 2400W output. So this unit offers equivalent power to commercial gas hobs, in a hotplate format. I managed to get someone else to pay for this unit. We will be using it in the development of hyperconductive cookware, since we can now induce aluminum and copper prototypes and comparators.