Cooking from "My Kitchen in Rome"

[ProfessionalHobbit]

I am REALLY picky when I buy cookbooks.

 

I guess a more accurate description would be, that I need to be seduced by a cookbook before I will buy it.  The author has to say, whether it's the writing, the recipes or the photography, or some combination of the foregoing, "let me show you more".  And I have to be able to see myself cooking those recipes.

 

It's why, a cookbook like this one or this one or something like this (which I have, oddly enough) doesn't quite make the cut.  As to the latter, it was a gift from a former roommate.  I've made, maybe, 2 recipes out of Mario's cookbook in the nearly 20 years I've owned it.  It's not that I don't like Mario Batali's food...it's just that his food doesn't speak to me.

 

On the other hand, "My Kitchen in Rome" by Rachel Roddy said to me within the first five pages, "buy me and you won't regret it".  It's like taking a trip to Rome while sitting in the comfort of your armchair. 

 

But don't take it from me ... let her food do the talking.

 

 

1/4 lb. prosciutto

 

 

1 carrot and 3 celery stalks sliced into thin batons.

 

 

10 1/8" thick slices of beef from a rump roast, from Andronico's. We ended up using 6 and froze the rest.

 

 

 

1 28 oz. can San Marzano tomatoes, crushed by hand.

 

 

1/2 cup pinot grigio.

 

 

Each slice of beef was seasoned with salt and black pepper, then stuffed with a slice of prosciutto and some carrot and celery, then rolled up and secured with toothpicks.

 

 

Warm olive oil in a skillet, then add the beef rolls. Brown on all sides.

 

 

Add the wine. Bring to a boil and reduce.

 

 

Add tomatoes, then lower heat to medium-low and partly cover. Braise for 90 minutes to 2 hours.

 

 

Involtini al sugo, pages 187-189

[Smithy]

Very pretty, sir.  How was the texture of the beef?  Was doneness the way you gauged when the braise was finished?

[ProfessionalHobbit]

It was meltingly tender, and fabulously rich for such a simple dish.

 

Definitely a keeper.

[ProfessionalHobbit]

Her take on marinated zucchini is just as delicious.

 

 

 

1 lb. zucchini, thinly sliced. Use a sharp knife or a mandoline.

 

 

 

Fry in olive oil until golden brown. If the oil is hot enough, this should take no more than 2-3 minutes.

Work in batches. When the zucchini is golden brown, lift out with a slotted spoon and place on paper towel-lined plates.

 

 

 

It's best if you fry in a single layer.

 

 

 

Sprinkle lightly with sea salt.

 

 

 

1 fat garlic clove, thinly sliced.

 

 

 

1 tablespoon red wine vinegar.

 

 

 

Combine zucchini, red wine vinegar, mint leaves and garlic in a large bowl. Taste for salt and pepper. Drizzle with extra-virgin olive oil. Stir a few times.

Marinate in the fridge for 1-2 hours, then serve.

 

 

Zucchine alla scapece, page 49.

[heidih]

That simple zucchini method is my current favorite especially with a lusty tub of mint in the garden.  I usually omit the vinegar and enjoy it  warmish or room temp.

[blue_dolphin]

On June 27, 2016 at 6:01 PM, ProfessionalHobbit said:

Her take on marinated zucchini is just as delicious.

 

I love that method of frying the zucchini and then marinating briefly in red wine vinegar.  It really elevates the Pasta and Fried Zucchini Salad from Ottolenghi's Plenty (cooking thread here). 

[rotuts]

Thank you for the tip on the book

 

It will be coming to my library from another branch in a few days.

[ProfessionalHobbit]

 

Pane, burro e acciughe ("bread, butter and anchovy").

 

This too is straight from the book.  Like any dish with minimal ingredients, they have to be top-notch for it to be at its best.

 

Toast the bread first, slather with butter, add anchovies.  Eat.

[kayb]

The zucchini trick is my next effort, as soon as the garden yields me another zuke or two.

[JohnT]

PH, Your beef rolls in sauce (Involtini al sugo) are darn good! I cooked up some this evening and must admit it is a simple but delishious meal. Thanks for posting it.

 

The anchovie toast is how I have been eating anchovie toast for over 50 years! If you do not like too much butter, a good sprinkle of EVOO on the hot toast does the trick as well.

[ProfessionalHobbit]

I'm transferring a couple of posts on the Dinner thread here so everything is in one place.

 

Next up is minestrone.

 

A little Italian vocabulary lesson:

 

Brodi are clear broths in which soup pasta such as orzo, ravioli or tortellini may be cooked. Minestre are quite light, while minestroni (note spelling) or “big soups”, are hearty, filling soups with plenty of vegetables, beans, and perhaps pasta or rice. Minestrine are fresh-tasting, light soups that consist of mostly puréed vegetables, and zuppe are rich, satisfying soups of anything from vegetables to fish.

 

Minestrone is one of those "big soups" you can make all year round, and what's more, there are apparently different regional variations.

 

Quote

Minestrone alla milanese: pancetta, potatoes, tomatoes, spinach, savoy cabbage, peas, borlotti or cannellini beans. (Some recipes call for green beans.) Typically includes rice.

Minestrone alla genovese: One version calls for pumpkin (or butternut squash), beans, dried peas, savoy cabbage, potatoes, green beans, erbette (substitute baby spinach outside Italy), tomatoes. Another calls for potatoes, borlotti, zucchine, bietole (swiss chard), savoy cabbage, spinach and (very unusually) eggplant. Serve with pesto, of course!

Minestrone alla livornese: fresh beans, spinach, prosciutto, savoy cabbage, a few swiss chard leaves, potato, zucchine, tomato sauce, pork rind (added just before the broth–not water).

Minestrone alla napoletana: garlic, zucchine, fresh beans, peas, generous amount of parsley and a lot tomato–the soup should have a definite red tinge. Neapolitan minestrone is soupier than other kinds of minestrone, so add much more water. (This is the kind of minestrone that non-Italians will probably be most familiar with.)

Minestrone alla pugliese: cabbage, green chicory, green beans, tomatoes, pork rind. Serve with short pasta (eg,ditali).

In Tuscany, they make a very special kind of minestrone called la ribollita: You make a ‘regular’ minestrone with cannellini beans, cavolo nero, savoy cabbage, potatoes, tomatoes, leek, swiss chard and pork skin (or substitute pancetta). You let that rest. Then when you are ready to eat (the next day) you reheat the soup (hence the name, which means ‘re-boiled’ in Italian), adding some water if too thick, and then chunks of Tuscan bread. Mix and allow to rest a few minutes before serving.

 

Source:  http://memoriediangelina.com/2009/09/26/minestrone-a-primer/#.V3bqj_krKCg (which you should bookmark also; it's one of my favorite Italian foodblogs.  Highly recommended.)

 

Back to the recipe....

 

 

Begin with dried beans. 

Pictured is 1 cup Rancho Gordo Marcella beans and 5 cups water. Bring to a boil and simmer, covered, over low heat or until beans are cooked. If the water gets too low, add some more. Takes about 90 minutes. These beans were NOT soaked.

 

If you don't have any Marcella beans, cannellini beans are ok, or use any bean you like,  

 

You can also cook them in a pressure cooker; that will cut down on the time dramatically.

 

Next, prep your vegetables.

 

 

 

 

1 onion, finely diced.

 

 

3-4 carrots, diced

 

 

3 celery stalks, diced

 

 

1/2 lb. new potatoes, peeled and diced

 

 

1/2 lb. each green and wax beans, diced

 

 

2 large heirloom tomatoes, coarsely chopped

 

The book calls for plum tomatoes but unfortunately that harvest is a few months away.  We just happened to have heirlooms on hand so that's what got used.

 

Notice that most of the ingredients are cut in nearly the same sizes.  The tomatoes were an exception since those will break down in the soup pot.  Cutting your vegetables the same size ensures that they'll all cook at the same rate.

 

Not shown were 1/2 lb. zucchini, diced; 2 bunches worth of shredded Swiss chard leaves; and 1 28-oz. can of crushed San Marzano tomatoes.  If you don't have any San Marzano tomatoes, regular crushed tomatoes are fine.

 

 

Melt 2-3 tbsp. unsalted butter over low heat; add 1/2 cup olive oil.

 

 

When the butter foams, add the onion, carrot and celery, and 2 tbsp. minced flat-leaf parsley. Cook over low heat, stirring occasionally, or until the vegetables are soft and fragrant, and begin to color, approx. 15 minutes.

 

Remember -- don't let the vegetables brown too much.  If you do, that will carry over to the final dish in terms of color and flavor.

 

 

This is about right.

 

 

 

Add the diced potatoes, some salt and black pepper and cook for 5 more minutes, stirring occasionally.  Then add the diced green and wax beans, and 1/2 lb. diced zucchini to the pot. Season with salt and black pepper. Cook for 5 minutes, stirring occasionally.

 

 

Then add the tomatoes, shredded Swiss chard and the can of crushed tomatoes. Season with salt and black pepper. Raise heat to medium-high. Cook for 2-3 minutes, stirring occasionally.

 

Then add 6 cups water and if you want, a small piece of rind from a wheel of Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese. Bring to a boil. Reduce heat to low and simmer, partly covered for 1 1/2 hours, remembering to stir occasionally.

 

 

Towards the last 30 minutes of cooking, add your cooked dried beans to the pot. 

Taste for salt and pepper, then transfer 2-3 ladlefuls to a blender. Purée, then add the puréed soup back to the pot. Simmer for 2-3 more minutes, then serve.

 

 

Minestrone, garnished with freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese.

You can serve this any number of ways -- by itself, or with pasta in the soup, or on top of some fried bread.  Minestrone gets better the longer it sits.  I especially adore it with some Parm-Reg cheese and a drizzle of olive oil, or with the addition of either pesto made in the usual style (with basil, cheese, pine nuts, garlic and olive oil) or with pesto rosso (sun-dried tomatoes, almonds. peperoncini).

 

[Okanagancook]

PH, simply lovely!  I enjoy the pictorial sequence of preparing a dish.  What stands out is how fresh looking your soup is even after it has cooked for 1.5 hours.  It really need to make some.  

 

Nice to have you back contributing as before.  This what I love about Egullet.

cheers

[ProfessionalHobbit]

I just adore green beans stewed in tomato sauce.  I could eat that for breakfast, lunch and dinner everyday of the week without tiring.  And now that it's tomato season, there's no better opportunity to take advantage than now.

 

 

5 ripe Early Girl tomatoes, peeled.

 

If you don't have Early Girl tomatoes, regular plum tomatoes are ok.  Just make sure they're in season and a little bit firm.  You don't have to peel them; it's just a textural preference.

 

To peel, make an "X" incision at the base of the tomato with a sharp knife.  Plunge in boiling water for 30 seconds, then dump in a bowl of ice water with a slotted spoon.  Skin should come right off.  Dice, then set aside.

 

 

About 1/2 lb. Romano beans, trimmed and 1 yellow onion, thinly sliced.

 

Cut or break the beans into 1/2" lengths.

 

 

Warm 5 tbsp. olive oil in a heavy-bottomed pan over medium-low heat.  Add the onions and a pinch of salt.  Cook until the onions are softened and translucent, about 5 minutes.

 

 

Then add the Romano beans.

 

 

Stir a few times or until each bean glistens with oil.

 

 

Add the tomatoes and a pinch of salt.

 

 

Stir a couple of times, then cover.  Cook for 5 minutes or until the tomatoes have given up most of their juice.

 

Uncover the pot.  Simmer for 45-50 minutes, stirring every so often, or until the tomatoes have reduced to a thick, rich sauce and the beans are tender.

 

 

About 10 minutes before the beans are done, add a small handful of torn basil leaves.  

 

Once beans are done, taste for salt and black pepper.  Allow the beans to sit for a few hours before serving.  It's even better the next day.

 

 

Fagiolini corallo in umido, pages 244-245.

[lindag]

17 hours ago, ProfessionalHobbit said:

I just adore green beans stewed in tomato sauce.  

 

Me too, and yours look amazing!

[shain]

@ProfessionalHobbit Green beans in tomatoes sure are amazing. The important thing is to cook them just to the right point, so that they are soft yet firm. I actually made some this weekend. I flavor mine with garlic, cumin, paprika, a touch of aniseed and finish them with parsley, cilantro and a drizzle of lemony tahini. 

Edited July 3, 2016 by shain (log)

[Franci]

On 7/1/2016 at 1:04 PM, ProfessionalHobbit said:

 

Pane, burro e acciughe ("bread, butter and anchovy").

 

This too is straight from the book.  Like any dish with minimal ingredients, they have to be top-notch for it to be at its best.

 

Toast the bread first, slather with butter, add anchovies.  Eat.

 

In this case I'd wait for the bread to cool. The butter shouldn't melt on the bread

.

[Okanagancook]

Interesting.  A totally different beast.  Like this 

http://memoriediangelina.com/2011/07/24/pane-burro-e-acciughe-bread-butter-and-anchovies/#.V3mpsJBfOrU

[Martin Fisher]

13 minutes ago, Okanagancook said:

Interesting.  A totally different beast.  Like this 

http://memoriediangelina.com/2011/07/24/pane-burro-e-acciughe-bread-butter-and-anchovies/#.V3mpsJBfOrU

 

OMG! I'm an anchovy and butter addict!!!

[ProfessionalHobbit]

It's all good, whichever way you go.

[ProfessionalHobbit]

 

Clockwise from lower right: 1 egg; 2 1/2 ounces guanciale; black peppercorns; 1/2 cup freshly grated pecorino cheese; 1 egg yolk.

Like many minimalist Italian pastas, carbonara requires attention to detail to do well. The less ingredients you have, the harder it is to mask any mistakes in either technique or sourcing. That's why it's important that your ingredients be the best quality that you can afford.

 

 

Warm 1-2 tbsp. olive oil in a skillet. Add guanciale and cook until fat has been rendered and guanciale is crisp. Remove from heat.

 

 

While your pasta is cooking, whisk together the egg yolk, the egg and cheese.

 

 

The egg mixture will become a light golden cream. Season to taste with salt and black pepper. Remember that the cheese is salty and ditto for the guanciale, and if you cooked your pasta with lightly salted water, it will also be faintly salty. Therefore, you might want to go easy on the salt. Pictured is a scant pinch of kosher salt, barely 1/8 tsp.

 

 

Cook your pasta until it's al dente. Just before you drain the pasta, ladle out 1 cup pasta cooking water.

 

 

 

Return the pan you cooked the guanciale in to the stove. Warm guanciale until its fat is hot. When hot, transfer all but 1/4 of the guanciale to a plate. 

Drain pasta and add it to the pan. Twirl pasta with a fork until strands are coated with the guanciale drippings.

 

 

 

Then, working quickly, add the egg-cheese mixture and a little pasta cooking water until a light, creamy sauce is formed. You'll know it's right when the sauce enrobes each strand of pasta and coats it seductively like a second skin.

Add guanciale to the pasta. Generously grind black pepper over all. Serve immediately.

 

 

This recipe has been sized for 2 people (original is for 4 servings) and is adapted from "My Kitchen in Rome" by Rachel Roddy, pages 138-140.

[ProfessionalHobbit]

Another winner from this cookbook.

 

I haven't turned to the desserts yet but maybe I will soon.  A work colleague of mine brought over some brioche bread pudding with Meyer lemon glaze on Friday so now I have to seriously consider teaching myself how to bake cake.  There's a ricotta and lemon cake on page 335 that's calling my name.

 

But I digress...

 

Tonight's dinner:

 

 

4 chicken legs and 4 chicken thighs. 

 

The book calls for 2 3/4 lbs. chicken but we prefer dark meat at Casa Hobbit, hence why you never see breast meat.

 

 

Clockwise from bottom:  2 tbsp. chopped oregano (subbed for rosemary which the book calls for but which we didn't have); 1/2 cup pinot grigio; 2 tbsp. sliced guanciale; 1 can crushed San Marzano tomatoes; 1 crushed garlic clove.  Not shown are two sweet red peppers that were julienned.  

 

 

Warm olive oil in a heavy-bottomed pot, then add guanciale.  Book calls for pancetta but this is what we had on hand, plus I prefer guanciale to pancetta nearly all the time.  Cook until fat is rendered and guanciale begins to crisp.

 

 

Add chicken skin side down.  Fry until chicken develops a nice golden crust.  This step absolutely cannot be rushed.  It will take about 20 minutes or so.

 

 

Once the chicken has browned, add the wine and let it evaporate.  Season with salt and liberal grindings of black pepper.  Be sure to season the chicken on both sides.

 

 

Add the garlic, oregano (or rosemary, if using) and the crushed tomatoes.  Book calls for either canned plum tomatoes with juice or fresh tomatoes.  Go with whatever you like.

 

Cover the pot and cook for 10 minutes.  Check every so often that the chicken isn't sticking to the bottom of the pot.  Eventually, chicken will come to a boil.  Reduce heat to medium-low, partly cover and cook for an additional 45-50 minutes or until sauce has become dense and rich.  You might want to check the pot every so often; if the sauce seems like it's too thick, add some water.

 

Meanwhile, cook your peppers.

 

 

The book has you oven-roast them but I elected to fry them in olive oil, seasoned with a pinch of salt.  I fried the peppers until they were nice and soft, then added them to the chicken.

 

 

 

Pollo alla romana con peperoni ("chicken with tomato and sweet peppers"), pages 192-195.

Edited August 1, 2016 by ProfessionalHobbit (log)