AlaMoi

felt side down...? base for a two light chaffing dish?

went there did that missed ya'!

scraps? what scraps . . . make a friend, wrap a scallop

I have the OXO smooth edge - for years. it's excellent. there is a knack to using it but it's not 'difficult' - Xmas presents to all three kids and they also find them most excellent.

MythBusters did an episode(s?) on this - they took out the whole kitchen - used a helicopter to douse the fire. that may have been more drama than need. additional https://youtu.be/lNilECQCoTk

it should clean up nicely - the grain strongly resembles elm - density is right. elm is known for its split resistance / decay resistance - southern species are about 60% as hard as rock maple - which looks about right from the cutting marks. keep us posted!

it does appear the board has a finish on it - I don't see any flaking around the worn&fuzzy areas - so probably a drying oil. tung oil is one guess. does not appear to have been stained - stains usually accumulate in places like the corners of the edge rabbiting (making a darker corner) where (geographically / continent wise) did the board come from originally? Europe/North America have different species . . . Spekva is Danish(?) so I'm suspecting a European species. does it feel "light" for it's size - 'normal' or 'heavy'? no obvious joints - given the clear width and ultra-straight grain its likely "old growth" i.e. from a bigbig tree generically it's a "face grain" construction - but well seasoned and selected, because that width and thickness is prone to warping / cupping. it is essential / critical to use/store/keep the board where both sides dry evenly. for everyday use feet on the underside to keep the bottom from getting soaking wet dry would be a reasonable thing. on-going - a light sanding with 200-300 grit sandpaper will even out the appearance - it's darkened with age (patina) so sanding will make the top surface lighter - which you may or may not want. I'm fond of mineral oil for a water resistant finish - easy to do / re-do / maintain. but do note, 'refinishing' the top will produce a lighter color - if you're fond of the 'old shopworn look' - a buffing with a plastic scrubbie type pad (3M makes a wood finish purpose style) would have minimal impact. re-creating a color match to an aged patina in a food safe finish will require some skills - probably best done by a professional....

if the pan/grease is hotter than water's boiling point, you can expect that to happen. the water violently 'explodes' from liquid to steam, spatters hot oil everywhere, which can create a fire. depending on volume, it can ruin your whole day. http://i.imgur.com/C5zmDyO.gif

what struck me is . . . that's a lot of water. 3.5 ounces by weight (units not shown) = 99+grams= near 100 ml = 6.7 tablespoons. that seems a lot for a single 9" crust. was the recipe developed for a pie dough squisher/former machine? that would need to be a bit wetter than a manual roll out. there is no butter - butter helps with browning the crust. other ideas: thin pie plate stone/heat holding shelf

I think someone mentioned the idea earlier - there is a "flat bed printer" design - the paper/t-shirt/corrugated/phone case/whatever is placed on a flat bed - which moves under the print head (which is 'stationary') https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WIMn9-foa84 no rollers, feeding, etc. downside: manual load, one at a time; cost goes up rapidly with size.... there are numerous sources for flat carton blanks - rectangular, open bowl tops, take out food types, etc etc however if they are die cut to the final (pre-fold) form it's unlikely they'll feed / wrap around rollers. even if they are die cut but still in a full sheet (not 'stripped' as folding carton people say...) unless the stripping tabs have been exquisitely designed to hold the cut out, they may pop-apart in the roller path and jam stuff real good. hence the flat bed printer . . .

the marble is already polished - 100 grit will be too coarse. I recommend you research polishing marble and how to remove etching from marble. there are a number of alternatives.

temp to kill salmonela 131'F; listeria 158'F; botulism 240'F pH>4.6; e-coli 160'F; tapeworm 125'F trichinosis 137'F; campylobacter 158'F

I second the Luminara suggestion - saw them in a restaurant recently - they fooled me - couldn't believe they'd have real candles going . . . but they are pricey. video

if you have a woodworker handy - half-Lincoln logs make a dandy bin - much easier to move around/relocate.

looking at the video - this is not composting. this is simply drying/dehydrating food scraps. I wonder what those shrimp shell smell like when you water the plant . . . also an interesting hoot - at the video opening look at the size of the pail and the volume of material that poor soul is struggling with . . . compare that to the size of the ittybitty device bucket. I see a falsisity in motion . . . .