AlaMoi

MythBusters did an episode(s?) on this - they took out the whole kitchen - used a helicopter to douse the fire. that may have been more drama than need. additional https://youtu.be/lNilECQCoTk

it should clean up nicely - the grain strongly resembles elm - density is right. elm is known for its split resistance / decay resistance - southern species are about 60% as hard as rock maple - which looks about right from the cutting marks. keep us posted!

it does appear the board has a finish on it - I don't see any flaking around the worn&fuzzy areas - so probably a drying oil. tung oil is one guess. does not appear to have been stained - stains usually accumulate in places like the corners of the edge rabbiting (making a darker corner) where (geographically / continent wise) did the board come from originally? Europe/North America have different species . . . Spekva is Danish(?) so I'm suspecting a European species. does it feel "light" for it's size - 'normal' or 'heavy'? no obvious joints - given the clear width and ultra-straight grain its likely "old growth" i.e. from a bigbig tree generically it's a "face grain" construction - but well seasoned and selected, because that width and thickness is prone to warping / cupping. it is essential / critical to use/store/keep the board where both sides dry evenly. for everyday use feet on the underside to keep the bottom from getting soaking wet dry would be a reasonable thing. on-going - a light sanding with 200-300 grit sandpaper will even out the appearance - it's darkened with age (patina) so sanding will make the top surface lighter - which you may or may not want. I'm fond of mineral oil for a water resistant finish - easy to do / re-do / maintain. but do note, 'refinishing' the top will produce a lighter color - if you're fond of the 'old shopworn look' - a buffing with a plastic scrubbie type pad (3M makes a wood finish purpose style) would have minimal impact. re-creating a color match to an aged patina in a food safe finish will require some skills - probably best done by a professional....

if the pan/grease is hotter than water's boiling point, you can expect that to happen. the water violently 'explodes' from liquid to steam, spatters hot oil everywhere, which can create a fire. depending on volume, it can ruin your whole day. http://i.imgur.com/C5zmDyO.gif

what struck me is . . . that's a lot of water. 3.5 ounces by weight (units not shown) = 99+grams= near 100 ml = 6.7 tablespoons. that seems a lot for a single 9" crust. was the recipe developed for a pie dough squisher/former machine? that would need to be a bit wetter than a manual roll out. there is no butter - butter helps with browning the crust. other ideas: thin pie plate stone/heat holding shelf

I think someone mentioned the idea earlier - there is a "flat bed printer" design - the paper/t-shirt/corrugated/phone case/whatever is placed on a flat bed - which moves under the print head (which is 'stationary') https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WIMn9-foa84 no rollers, feeding, etc. downside: manual load, one at a time; cost goes up rapidly with size.... there are numerous sources for flat carton blanks - rectangular, open bowl tops, take out food types, etc etc however if they are die cut to the final (pre-fold) form it's unlikely they'll feed / wrap around rollers. even if they are die cut but still in a full sheet (not 'stripped' as folding carton people say...) unless the stripping tabs have been exquisitely designed to hold the cut out, they may pop-apart in the roller path and jam stuff real good. hence the flat bed printer . . .

the marble is already polished - 100 grit will be too coarse. I recommend you research polishing marble and how to remove etching from marble. there are a number of alternatives.

temp to kill salmonela 131'F; listeria 158'F; botulism 240'F pH>4.6; e-coli 160'F; tapeworm 125'F trichinosis 137'F; campylobacter 158'F

I second the Luminara suggestion - saw them in a restaurant recently - they fooled me - couldn't believe they'd have real candles going . . . but they are pricey. video

if you have a woodworker handy - half-Lincoln logs make a dandy bin - much easier to move around/relocate.

looking at the video - this is not composting. this is simply drying/dehydrating food scraps. I wonder what those shrimp shell smell like when you water the plant . . . also an interesting hoot - at the video opening look at the size of the pail and the volume of material that poor soul is struggling with . . . compare that to the size of the ittybitty device bucket. I see a falsisity in motion . . . .

this is a batter recipe from 40+ years ago - as 'tested' by consumer reports. I also like to hand drop the berries after the pour . . . no blue batter...

if you're curious, there are (many) "salt sampler sets" available - just read carefully as some are "infused salts" and some are the natural salts from variously places/locales/mountains/etc. typically small qtys - 1-2 ounces - of each; small sets with 2-3 varieties to many....

if you can get it bone in, be sure to ask the definition. many butchers cut the meat free of the bone, then tie it back together. I find that does not produce as good a result.

note that dry aging beef is a topic much like how to hard boil and egg - a lot of people have very fixed opinions, which are all not the same. I've never found "an authority" that more than one person will accept as an authority - the USDA doesn't publish any how-to guidelines. places famous for dry aged beef that do reveal their 'secrets' don't do it 'the same' - so this topic frequently degenerates into a free for all. I like to age our stuff so I've researched it a bit. here's some stuff I've found you may or may not choose to believe or use: - one point to dry aging is tenderness; tough/chewy indicates to me something was not done "right" - taste testing by generally accepted 'food people' indicates dry aging past 30 days becomes a diminishing return; the flavor/taste gets funkier, to the point some don't like it 'that old' - boneless. usually not recommended; the meat dries too fast. - deckle: prime rib affectionados like this left on - fat cap: generous fat cap left on during; trimmed after - most places famous for dry aging agree on temperatures with a degree or two - places famous for dry aging do not all agree on what relative humidity should be maintained or whether it should be constant or start high/low and move to low/high. the cited numbers range from 50%-95% - the home fridge does not control humidity; a frost free refrigerator can be far to low in relative humidity - quite a few known / self-appointed experts limit home refrigerator dry aging to "several days" ==================== in your case, 17 to 10 lbs or 18 to 11 lbs = almost 40% loss - that's very high. 30% at 60 days is an oft cited number. my suspicion is that it dried too fast - more jerky than dry aged - and left 45-52-60 days was just too much. if it was deboned then dried, that would aggravate the situation even more as the fat cap and bone structure slows down the drying process.