Salt mills are stupid

[Fat Guy]

We've had a topic on pepper and salt mills going since 2002, and once in awhile someone pops up and says (not in so many words) salt mills are stupid. I would like to take a few moments to establish this premise once and for all.

There are two reasons to use pepper mills: first, if you use pre-ground pepper it just doesn't taste as good because pepper, once ground, rapidly degrades (it also degrades in whole form, so you don't want to be using ten-year-old peppercorns); second, the grind size of pepper is a significant factor in many dishes.

Salt, for its part, won't change in flavor even if you leave it, say, buried in the Earth for a million years. It's the one thing you could find in an archaeological dig in someone's ancient kitchen and it wouldn't taste any different today than it did during the Peloponnesian wars. And when cooking, the grind size of salt is usually irrelevant because salt dissolves in most dishes.

There are a few places where the grind size of salt does matter. Most are rather esoteric, but there's one big one: when you use salt as a table condiment or garnish, the grind size can make a difference. Me, I'm entirely happy with the range of coarseness choices available off the shelf. Not that I think this is the reason most people use salt mills. In 99% of cases, they're cosmetic.

As for the downside of a salt grinder, it's horribly inefficient. Especially when you're cooking, it takes forever to grind enough salt into a pot. And you never really know how much you're using. The hand is a far better tool for salting, because you know what you're getting.

There are also, I should add, plenty of cosmetically appealing ways to present salt on the table. We have individual antique salt dishes in cobalt blue glass and sterling silver, with little spoons, as well as individual miniature salt shakers (the range of salt shakers out there is amazing and, for those concerned with symmetry, some even match certain pepper mills). It's not like you have to put a paper can of Morton's on the table.

[phaelon56]

There are a few places where the grind size of salt does matter. Most are rather esoteric, but there's one big one: when you use salt as a table condiment or garnish, the grind size can make a difference. Me, I'm entirely happy with the range of coarseness choices available off the shelf. Not that I think this is the reason most people use salt mills. In 99% of cases, they're cosmetic.

As for the downside of a salt grinder, it's horribly inefficient. Especially when you're cooking, it takes forever to grind enough salt into a pot. And you never really know how much you're using. The hand is a far better tool for salting, because you know what you're getting.

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I don't have a salt mill but might consider getting one to use instead of the mortar and pestle I use at present. I tend to favor the flavor of sea salt for most purposes but need it in a few different coarseness levels. The limited amount of cooking I have time to do (often for only one or two people) is such that I don't want to have three separate containers of sea salt on hand. I just buy the coarse stuff and mash it as needed. But more kitchen implements? I don't need more clutter - I suppose I'll lstick to the mortar and pestle.

[moosnsqrl]

I carry a small set of salt & pepper mills at all times. I don't care for the metallic taste of common table salt and fresh pepper is always preferable to what is found on most tables.

I do not bother to grind salt for cooking because, as FG mentioned, there's no point as it is going to dissolve anyway.

But please don't try to tell me the mill I carry is "stupid." I guess it is in that it is inanimate and unable to reason but I'm happy to tote its ignorant self around 24/7 to enhance my enjoyment of whatever food comes my way. And I've never known anyone at the table with me to turn down the offer of freshly ground sea salt, either.

[scubadoo97]

I agree that salt mills are impractical. I just don't see the need. moosnsqrl traveling set sounds nice but for home use why bother. Not only does it not enhance flavor over let's say kosher or sea salt but you have to go and find rock salt to grind.

[Fat Guy]

Owen, what the heck are you cooking that requires such fine gradations of salt coarseness?

[annecros]

Well, I do them both, salt cellar and salt mill. The cellar sits by my stove for cooking purposes. The mill sits beside my pepper mill on the dining table, mostly for me. My husband's taste demands minimal salting, and he doesn't even salt sliced tomatoes or eggs. That leaves me to add additional seasoning at the table when I want it, and the mill gives better control over the seasoning process than pulling pinches or scattering with a spoon. Additionally, guests can season to thier tastes more effectively. For everyday use, they both contain either coarse kosher or sea salt, depending on what's on sale when I am shopping.

Naw, not stupid. That's my vote.

[cdh]

Big hunks of salt in a grinder would be much more manageable in a humid environment than fine salt in a shaker. The grinder already contemplates the salt being in a big lump and needing to be ground down to a useful format. Shakers in humid environments often end up with big lumps of salt in them, and have nothing built in to handle that problem.

[phaelon56]

Owen, what the heck are you cooking that requires such fine gradations of salt coarseness?

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I use coarse sea salt as is for basic cooking and a medium coarseness for sprinkling on items such as corn on the cob.

But I use unsweetened Drost cocoa powder (or its equivalent) to make a microfoamed chocolate milk base for mocha latte's. My ideal mocha base has a drop or two of vanilla extract, some raw sugar (or cane syrup) and a very small pinch of salt added to the milk before steaming. The absolute best mocha's I have ever tried have all been at Carriage House Cafe in Ithaca. They use Valrhona unsweetened chocolate for their mocha base and add sweetener etc. instead of using syrup or a presweetened powder such as Ghirardelli.

I steam to only about 135 F when using regular milk and about 125 F with the Lactaid milk I use for making my GF's drinks (and she drinks most of the mocha's consumed at my house). The brief steaming time and low temps have me suspecting that coarse sea salt won't dissolve fully when I make the mocha base. A pinch of salt really helps the flavors shine but I cringe at the thought of sucking in and tasting a honkin' big sea salt crystal when I drink a mocha.

[Fat Guy]

Interesting. As a not-exactly-on-point experiment, I just put 4 ounces of 125-degree water in a glass, added a tablespoon of coarse sea salt, and stirred with a spoon ten times. It all dissolved.

[slkinsey]

The only curcumstance in which a salt mill makes any sense at all is to dispense superfine sea salt when seasoning to individual tastes at the table.

Preground superfine salt has a tendency to clump in the shaker unless it is combined with an anticaking agent like sodium alumino-silicate. These anticaking agents are not usually used in superfine salts (they're usually found only in regular table salt size), and also some people don't like the flavor of the anticaking agents or the added potassium iodide.

Also, it is very easy to control the "dose" of salt with a salt mill whereas salt shakers can be extremely variable in that regard, being especially prone to pouring out too much superfine salt per "shake."

[Busboy]

The only curcumstance in which a salt mill makes any sense at all is to dispense superfine sea salt when seasoning to individual tastes at the table. 

Preground superfine salt has a tendency to clump in the shaker unless it is combined with an anticaking agent like sodium alumino-silicate.  These anticaking agents are not usually used in superfine salts (they're usually found only in regular table salt size), and also some people don't like the flavor of the anticaking agents or the added potassium iodide.

Also, it is very easy to control the "dose" of salt with a salt mill whereas salt shakers can be extremely variable in that regard, being especially prone to pouring out too much superfine salt per "shake."

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On a related note, I had dinner at CityZen here in DC --one of our best, if you haven't heard of it -- and for one course they brought a fist-sized rock of salt from southeast Asia and used a carpenter's rasp to serve it over something a bit twee but very tasty. So, when I saw a huge rock of Bolivian Pink (yes, I get a cheap thrill from saying I have a rock of Bolivian Pink in my kitchen) in a Dean and DeLuca, I had to buy it and then dash out for a rasp of my own. It does deliver a superfine grind with a distinctive taste, but I'm not really sure how to employ it most effectively to enhance my dining experience.

It's probably even stupider than a salt grinder, but way cooler to set out on the table.

[Marlene]

I keep a salt box by the stove for seasoning, but I do use a salt mill at the table. I can adjust the grind as I want and control the output. Most of the salt shakers I've seen dispense salt either way too fast, or it's clumped up inside and won't dispense at all.

I also have a small jar of maldon salts that I set at the table for finishing meats, in particular, beef.

Not stupid is my vote.

Edited February 27, 2007 by Marlene (log)

[I_call_the_duck]

What Marlene said, but without the Maldon salts.

[Kim Shook]

What Marlene said, but without the Maldon salts.

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Ditto here, too.

Plus, my super cheap Costco pre-filled sea salt grinder is adjustable and will shower my nightly bowl of popcorn with soft, powdery finely ground salt. mmmmmm

[kbjesq]

I'm a newbie here, but I vote "not stupid".

Salt mills may not be necessary for proper application of the seasoning and agreed, salt can be presented many nice ways at the table other than through a mill. But there is something pleasant about handling a beautiful salt mill. My favorite one at present is clear - lucite, I presume - so you can see the gorgeous salt crystals while you are grinding them.

I love salt and thankfully, I have no health issues that would cause me to restrict my intake. I became interested in different kinds of salt after listening to one celebrity chef's continuous raving about the wonders of gray salt - you probably know the one I'm talking about. I did some research and discovered all kinds of salts: black salts, pink, Hawaiian, course, grey, fine, and so on.

Presently, I am exploring the wonders of Australian Murray River salt. It is peach in color, with these amazing flakes that just melt onto your food. It has a very delicate flavor. I do not put this salt in the salt mill! Rather, I keep it in a mini le creuset dutch oven (that holds, I'm guessing, 4 oz. or so). Very cute, but not chic like a lump of Bolivian Pink grated with a planer. I'm going to have to search for that one.

A few years ago, I was really into a coarse sea salt that had been infused with smoked garlic. Of course, this was not a salt that could be used with every dish but on certain dishes, it was superb. It was phenomenal rubbed onto oiled jacket potatoes before roasting.

OK, I could go on and on about salt but I'm straying from the topic. Point is, there are times when a salt mill is just what I need and I'm glad to have one. And I don't feel stupid . . . obsessive and compulsive, maybe, but not stupid.

KBJ

[andiesenji]

I have a wet salt grinder because it is easier to distribute the salt evenly over a dish because otherwise it clumps.

I now use a salt grinder (perhaps mine is more efficient that others because it throws out enough for me) mainly because I have difficulty feeling how much salt I pick up in a pinch. I have lost some sensitivity in my fingers since developing severe arthritis in my right hand.

[moosnsqrl]

It's probably even stupider than a salt grinder, but way cooler to set out on the table.

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Ah, yes, but does it fit in your purse?

[MarketStEl]

As my partner has high blood pressure and my roommate is on dialysis, I cannot cook with salt beyond small amounts any more. I've gotten used to doing such things as using Old Bay in its place, even though it changes the nature of the dish I'm preparing. (The roomie with the failed kidneys means that I can't use common salt substitutes like potassium chloride either.)

But there are times when I would like to salt my own dishes. I buy coarse rather than fine sea salt because, as Fat Guy noted, it doesn't matter what size the grains are when you're using salt as an ingredient in cooking. But it does matter at the table, and there, a salt mill is IMO a convenient way to get the grain size down--certainly more convenient than a mortar and pestle.

Put me down as a "not stupid" vote too.

[piazzola]

I too have one of those supermarket salt and pepper grinders but don't use it often

I do season my food using my hands as rough measure and as I suffer hypertension I use salt sparingly.

As for the peppercorns must confess it may be hard to get younger ones it would be had to ascertain how old they are when already packaged. I don't think there is much choice but I don't use that much to notice the difference anyway.

[budrichard]

"Salt, for its part, won't change in flavor even if you leave it, say, buried in the Earth for a million years."

Whether mined from salt deposits which were actually formed from ancient seas or procured from evaporating sea water, all the salt has been around for eons, as its constituents were formed before the solar system was born in the interior of stars. NaCl is just a very stable compound.

We use commerical kosher, large and fine Balien sea salt and for our wet grinder a Portugeuse source that is relatively inexpensive. I find that the larger the salt grind, the more impact, the salt has on certain foods. Bread fresh from the oven with salt free butter with a grind of salt, positively bursts with flavor. The salt grinder is an integral part of our table. -Dick

[BeauNoze]

I've tried using salt mills to no avail. You're right, there's nothing like your hand to measure out salt.

And really, how in the world can you get a " pinch " of salt out of a mill?

[a la mode]

Is there a particular sea salt that is best for everyday cooking? I rarely add salt when cooking, so to be honest, I've never used sea salt.

[maxmillan]

Interesting topic.

Through reading everyone's input, I've decided to ditch my salt grinder and use it for peppercorns and spices.

But the rasp and salt rock, now that's something I'm going to look into.

[Dave the Cook]

Is there a particular sea salt that is best for everyday cooking? I rarely add salt when cooking, so to be honest, I've never used sea salt.

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All salt is sea salt.

[JAZ]

Maybe the salt mills I've used haven't been the right ones, because I find that they never grind as fine as table salt, and I also find that the grind is generally uneven. So I can't imagine using one for sprinkling an even layer of fine salt. I use a shaker for those applications. Even sprinkling kosher salt from my fingers results in a more even layer of salt than the grinders I've used.

As for the clumping issue, even living in San Francisco, with its moist marine air, for 20 years, I never had any trouble with clumping (using, from time to time, Morton table salt, which has anti-clumping agents, but also Baleine'sfine salt, which doesn't).