• Welcome to the eG Forums, a service of the eGullet Society for Culinary Arts & Letters. The Society is a 501(c)3 not-for-profit organization dedicated to the advancement of the culinary arts. These advertising-free forums are provided free of charge through donations from Society members. Anyone may read the forums, but to post you must create an account.

jmolinari

Curing and Cooking with Ruhlman & Polcyn's "Charcuterie" (Part 5)

538 posts in this topic

[Moderator note: The original Cooking with Ruhlman & Polcyn's "Charcuterie" topic became too large for our servers to handle efficiently, so we've divided it up; the preceding part of this discussion is here: Cooking with Ruhlman & Polcyn's "Charcuterie" (Part 4)]

 

 

 

 

Ah yes, but i'm counting on non-deadly sickness !

again to cover my ass, i do NOT recommend any method for making salame. You're on your own!


Edited by Mjx Note added. (log)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
I wonder what kind of "sickness" one could get. The botulism risk i think is removed by using nitrites, so that seems to leave just regular food poisoning (which can be rather unpleasant from what i've heard).

How can a thread die with comments like these :biggrin: !! I love that matter of fact discussion of what the possibility of sickness is. I actually might give it a shot.

I have not posted in a while also because I've been repeating things and because I had a good stash of sausages and such in the freezer.

In the near future I am hoping to try out some new stuff namely:

- I recently bought the book by Andrea Nguyen, Into the Vietnamese Kitchen, to make some excellent Viet food at home and was pleasantly surprised to see a chapter on Charcuterie with 6 or 7 classic Viet charcuterie preparations. So, I have to make some of these and apply my experience from this thread to make perfect fillings for Viet sandwiches.

- Another great book i bought is Michel Richard's Happy in The Kitchen and I am learning so many fantastic techniques from it. He also has a recipe for almost fat free chicken sausage that I am itching to try and use natural casing for instead of the plastic wrap he is so fond of.

- A Lebanese Makanek recipe

And that pate does look perfect Dan. Next give the one with pork tenderloin inlay a shot. I have pics of it somewhere in this thread and it was the best I've ever made.


E. Nassar
Houston, TX

My Blog
contact: enassar(AT)gmail(DOT)com

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I'm placing my first order for casings and Bactoferm today.

I was wondering whether anyone had tried Bactoferm T-SPX instead of the F-RM-52 called for in the book since many seemed to feel that the F-RM-52 was too sour.


Edited by 6ppc (log)

Jon

--formerly known as 6ppc--

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks so much to the person who got me addicted to this thread!!! What an amazing amt of info and I am so excited about this...I ordered the book and just checked it should be here Monday YAY!!!

...I have a question..

how long are casings good for? the butcher I bought these from said "forever if you keep them packed in salt" but is forever like a year in the fridg because that is how long mine have been in there..they are packed in salt and there is no slime or off smell to them ..but a year is a long time and as cheap as they are maybe I should replace them now?

what do you think ..I can not believe how many you get when you buy a pound of those things!!! I made a lot of Italian and chorice last year and did not make a dent in my casing supply!

thanks


Edited by hummingbirdkiss (log)

why am I always at the bottom and why is everything so high? 

why must there be so little me and so much sky?

Piglet 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

6ppc, i'm going to try T-SPX in my next batch in the future, so if you experiment with it, def. let us know.

Hummingbird: forever is really forever. If salted and kept in the fridge they will last indefinitely. Specially if they don't smell rotten.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
6ppc, i'm going to try T-SPX in my next batch in the future, so if you experiment with it, def. let us know.

I chickened out and ordered the F-RM-52, I wonder if using less than 1/4 cup for a 5 pound batch as some did upthread helped reduce the sourness.


Jon

--formerly known as 6ppc--

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I'm trying foodman's pastrami salmon recipe this weekend for an Easter brunch. I started the cure last night, so I hope that it will be ready in time. The first time that I cured salmon, two days was plenty of time.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Well the pancetta seemed done after the better part of two weeks.

Just had a couple of slices raw while doing prep for spaghetti carbonara. Very, very tasty indeed seems almost a pity to cook it. Three bellies almost finished curing - will put them in the smoker Friday 'cos you can never have enough bacon.


Jon

--formerly known as 6ppc--

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

So, a buddy of mine just sent me a snap he took when he came over for dinner and we had the country pate that I posted shots of up above. I also made the roasted veggie terrine (had a pescaterian over that night and didn't want them to miss this course completely)

gallery_27805_3593_792475.jpg

My plating skills need some work, but you get the point.

Cooking up my VA country ham this weekend and will post shots and impressions (pictures of the ham-making process are here).

Cheers,

-Dan

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Dan-

That roasted veggie terrine looks great.

Reignking-

How did the pastrami salmon turn out? I've made it a couple of times since and still love it.


E. Nassar
Houston, TX

My Blog
contact: enassar(AT)gmail(DOT)com

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yesterday was kind of busy.

Made a batch of saucisson sec, a batch of chicken/tomato/basil sausage, smoked three bellies.

We had the links on the plate for dinner man that is tasty sausage.

gallery_52440_4436_976643.jpg

I don't seem to mind grinding using the kitchenaid grinder attachment but the "stuffer" is a f'n joke. Need to look upthread for an alternative.


Edited by 6ppc (log)

Jon

--formerly known as 6ppc--

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Yesterday was kind of busy.

Made a batch of saucisson sec, a batch of chicken/tomato/basil sausage, smoked three bellies.

I don't seem to mind grinding using the kitchenaid grinder attachment but the "stuffer" is a f'n joke. Need to look upthread for an alternative.

Great stuff, 6ppc. It definitely looks like it was a busy day. :smile:

Btw, for stuffer information, look here:

Sausage stuffers - what to look for?, Recommendations, please

=R=


"Hey, hey, careful man! There's a beverage here!" --The Dude, The Big Lebowski

LTHForum.com -- The definitive Chicago-based culinary chat site

ronnie_suburban 'at' yahoo.com

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Around the turn of the year the local supermarket had a special on pig legs. Time to try the cured ham thing:

Twenty pounds of pig-leg, dry-rubbed with the rum and molasses [and salt] mixture.

gallery_42308_4529_5456.jpg

The leg went into the cure on the 13th of January, and stayed there for three weeks, in the un-heated outbuilding. Refrigerated, but not frozen. The recipe calls for what seemed like a lot of #2 cure. Mr Ruhlman was kind enough to look into things, and confirmed that the high level of curing salt was correct.

After a couple of weeks, the cure had drawn a gallon or so of moisture out of the pig-leg.

gallery_42308_4529_36440.jpg

At the end of the three week cure, the leg was cold smoked for many hours - eighteen or so. Lacking a sophisticated cold smoker, I just made a wooden box and fitted that to the top of the electric "little Chief" smoker, moving the ham-to-be away from the heat source. Relying on the sub zero out doors temperature and an uninsulated box seemed to work well enough. After the smoking, the ham was hung in the unheated building.

gallery_42308_4529_15942.jpg

It stayed there from mid-February until mid-April, at which point the rising temperature started to make me nervous.

Never having had a cured ham to play with before, I wasn't too sure how best to deal with the end result. Since Craigslist has so far failed to provide an antique Hobart slicer at a sensible price, I eventually just took big lumps off. The bone and some of the more shoe-leather sections of rind are destined to make a great pot of beans.

gallery_42308_4529_12496.jpg

Sliced thinly, [or even not so thinly] the end result is meltingly delicious, moist and tender.

cheers

Derek

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Did you cook it or eat it as is?

We took thin slices off one of the "hunk o' ham" pieces and ate it uncooked. The book talks about the end result ideally being dried through the middle, and "as dense as any dry-cured ham". I think our humidity was perhaps too low to allow this. The texture achieved was softer and silkier then a commercial ham. Most of the big lumps went into the freezer - perhaps we'll try cooking one later.

cheers

Derek

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Very tasty looking work Derek and 6ppc. I doubt I'll even manage to try a whole cured ham in this part of the country without a temp controlled space like a wine cooler or fridge of some sort.

BTW, 6ppc the Grizzly stuffer is one of the best things I bought and highly recommended.


E. Nassar
Houston, TX

My Blog
contact: enassar(AT)gmail(DOT)com

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
BTW, 6ppc the Grizzly stuffer is one of the best things I bought and highly recommended.

I second this 6ppc...I tried the KA stuffer once and that was enough. The Grizzly was only about $70 and is a pleasure to use. You won't be sorry.


Anyone who says I'm hard to shop for doesn't know where to buy beer.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I had a busy weekend too. I made a batch of Ciauscolo from Len Poli's site that doesn't have to cure for a very long time. It also uses no starter culture and thought it might be good to try given our discussions upthread. I am also going to try the Ledenspeck from that site that looks awesome so I put those items in to cure. I am away on business the latter part of this week and first of next but will post pics when i return. Should be able to get a read on the Ciauscolo by the middle of next week.


Anyone who says I'm hard to shop for doesn't know where to buy beer.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Very tasty looking work Derek and 6ppc. I doubt I'll even manage to try a whole cured ham in this part of the country without a temp controlled space like a wine cooler or fridge of some sort.

BTW, 6ppc the Grizzly stuffer is one of the best things I bought and highly recommended.

Ordered it today.

IS anyone else annoyed by the lack of different size plates for the KA grinder? I wish they had a bigger plate.

Yes. I'd really like a larger plate. I keep thinking someone with more talent than I have should market accessory plates and blades for the KA grinder. Didn't someone once make a grinder attachment for the KA that took standard plates?


Jon

--formerly known as 6ppc--

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
IS anyone else annoyed by the lack of different size plates for the KA grinder? I wish they had a bigger plate.

Yes...I stewed about whether to get the KA or some other grinder and got the KA because I had a KA and it was a pretty inexpensive way to get started. I find it ok for pate because ususally you want the grind smaller. Its also good for fresh hamburger and some beginning sausage making. I think you outgrow it pretty quickly though.

Its probably cheaper to buy a #10 or larger grinder from B-P or some other vendor that it is to pay a machine shop to make one or two plates with different size holes. If you know a machinst (who likes sausage!) that is a different story. If you do let us all know.


Anyone who says I'm hard to shop for doesn't know where to buy beer.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

heh. Well i have access to a machine shop, so i'm going to try modifying a plate of the closest size. I already have the plate, (from my old manual grinder), it needs to be reduced in diameter about 2mm, and then i need to add some pins where the "ears" of the KA plates are.

Just haven't had time to do it.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hello,

this is my first post on egullet. I love this place, I just can't figure out why it took me so long find it.

I made a batch of the ginger/basil breakfst sausage on Sunday but I have two questions:

1. How do I store the extra sheep casings?. I added a lot of salt and then put them in ziplock bag in my fridge, but it is still fairly wet. Is this OK? or Should I makesure they are compleatly drained and then salted before I put them in my fridge?

2. I found it very difficult to stuff my sausages using the sausage stuffer attachment for the KitchenAid Grinder. Any tips one how to make this process a lot smoother? I found it REALLY slow...

Thanks

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.

  • Similar Content

    • By JoNorvelleWalker
      Started in on Rob's book tonight.  Nice pictures, interesting philosophy.  The bit about grapevines reminded me ever so much about my balcony.  My grapevine has been growing ten or twenty years, planted by the birds.  Never a grape, ever.  Only recently did I learn that unlike European grapes, the native grapevines are sexual.  This one is undoubtedly a boy.  He provides lovely leaves and shade, and something for the tomatoes to hang onto.
       
    • By Bon Appetit Cookbooks
      This topic was hijacked from the Vancouver Board.
      What cookbooks do you love to cook out of at home?
      Is there a specific recipe that is your favorite?
      Or is there a book you just can't live without?
      If you have pictures, even better! Lets see how it turns out!
      Some of my favorites to cook out of:
      The Balthazar Cookbook - The Beef Tartar is amazing! As is the Chicken Liver Mousse
      The Babbo Cookbook - The Strawberries & Peaches with Balsamic Zabaglione
      Barefoot in Paris - The Blue Cheese Souffle looks JUST LIKE THE PICTURE!
      The Bouchon Cookbook - The Roast Chicken will seriously change your life
      Gordon Ramsey Makes it Easy - The Chocolate Pots are the easiest dessert in the world and tastes so good....especially with the Amedei #7
      There are lots more. Hopefully I can take pictures and show you.
      Hopefully this post can be an ongoing thing.
      I think we are all interested in what eachother cooks!
      Happy Cooking

      J
    • By Dave the Cook
      Those of us that have been following Rob Connoley's (aka gfron1) trek from home cook to down-and-literally-dirty locavore James Beard-semi-finalist chef are justifiably proud of his well-deserved transformation to a published author, which he has faithfully detailed in an earlier topic. If you're not familiar with his story, I urge you to catch up, then come back here, because we're ready to move on to the next step.
       
      Rob's book, Acorns & Cattails: A Modern Foraging Cookbook of Forest, Farm & Field, is finally, officially available. This alone is awesome news, and you should totally order your copy today. Or . . . 
       
      . . . we want to continue the conversation about Rob, his book and his future plans in this topic. And just to up the awesomeness, Rob is offering a free book to a randomly selected participant here.
       
      Simply post a question or comment in this topic between now and 11:59 p.m. CST (US), 13 September 2016 and you'll be eligible to "win," based on a random drawing to be conducted, with each participant getting one chance, not including Society volunteers (and Rob himself. Multiple posts will not improve your chances, so don't get overheated.)  The winner will be announced on 14 September.
       
      Rob will be along shortly to add his encouragement and whatever late-breaking news he has -- he's busy guy these days, so be patient -- but there's no need to wait to post questions or comments.
       
       
      P.S. And if you don't win, you should still get this book.
    • By liuzhou
      A few weeks ago I bought a copy of this cookbook which is a best-selling spin off from the highly successful television series by China Central Television - A Bite of China as discussed on this thread.   .
       

       
      The book was published in August 2013 and is by Chen Zhitian (陈志田 - chén zhì tián). It is only available in Chinese (so far). 
       
      There are a number of books related to the television series but this is the only one which seems to be legitimate. It certainly has the high production standards of the television show. Beautifully photographed and with (relatively) clear details in the recipes.
       
      Here is a sample page.
       

       
      Unlike in most western cookbooks, recipes are not listed by main ingredient. They are set out in six vaguely defined chapters. So, if you are looking for a duck dish, for example, you'll have to go through the whole contents list. I've never seen an index in any Chinese book on any subject. 
       
      In order to demonstrate the breadth of recipes in the book and perhaps to be of interest to forum members who want to know what is in a popular Chinese recipe book, I have sort of translated the contents list - 187 recipes.
       
      This is always problematic. Very often Chinese dishes are very cryptically named. This list contains some literal translations. For some dishes I have totally ignored the given name and given a brief description instead. Any Chinese in the list refers to place names. Some dishes I have left with literal translations of their cryptic names, just for amusement value.
       
      I am not happy with some of the "translations" and will work on improving them. I am also certain there are errors in there, too.
       
      Back in 2008, the Chinese government issued a list of official dish translations for the Beijing Olympics. It is full of weird translations and total errors, too. Interestingly, few of the dishes in the book are on that list.
       
      Anyway, for what it is worth, the book's content list is here (Word document) or here (PDF file). If anyone is interested in more information on a dish, please ask. For copyright reasons, I can't reproduce the dishes here exactly, but can certainly describe them.
       
      Another problem is that many Chinese recipes are vague in the extreme. I'm not one to slavishly follow instructions, but saying "enough meat" in a recipe is not very helpful. This book gives details (by weight) for the main ingredients, but goes vague on most  condiments.
       
      For example, the first dish (Dezhou Braised Chicken), calls for precisely 1500g of chicken, 50g dried mushroom, 20g sliced ginger and 10g of scallion. It then lists cassia bark, caoguo, unspecified herbs, Chinese cardamom, fennel seed, star anise, salt, sodium bicarbonate and cooking wine without suggesting any quantities. It then goes back to ask for 35g of maltose syrup, a soupçon of cloves, and "the correct quantity" of soy sauce.
       
      Cooking instructions can be equally vague. "Cook until cooked".
       
      A Bite of China - 舌尖上的中国- ISBN 978-7-5113-3940-9 
    • By yoboseyo
      Novice at meat-curer looking for advice. I'm making 2 pancettas this season.
       
      The first one I used the over-salting technique. What I didn't expect was that the salt would all turn into brine in a day, and I expected that I could scrape away the excess salt at the end. Instead, I left it on the brine for too long, and the result was too salty. The meat firmed up in 2 days so I should've taken it out then.
       
      For my second one, which is currently in the fridge, I used the equilibrium salting technique. I added about 100g salt for 3.5kg meat. The problem now is that it's not firming up seemingly at all! It has been 9 days in the fridge, and flipping it every day or 2. After 6 days, however, there was no pool of brine left. I put the meat in a folded over but unsealed bag. Did the brine evaporate or resoak into the meat?
       
      Any advice on how to continue would be appreciated.
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.