eG Cook-Off #68: Citrus Fruits

[David Ross]

Well, the merguez dish had some flaws and I'll need to re-work things, but there is promise in terms of flavor, specifically citrus flavor.

 

The merguez needed at least double the amount of fresh orange zest, say 2 tbsp. rather than one. I might try adding dried tangerine peel that I can find in the local Asian market.  The merguez needed more seasoning, aka salt, and heat, aka heat fro the chiles I the harissa or more chipotle. 

 

I was planning on forming the merguez on skewers and grilling them, but that didn't work out in terms of visual appeal so I decided to make mini meguez meatballs.  Turned out looking ok on the plate, but I think grilled skewers of merquez still would have been better.  I think merguez patties stuffed in a pita along with the other elements would also work quite well.

 

The reduced blood orange balsamic was good, quite good in fact.  The perfect marriage of sweet and sour with the lamb merguez.  The salad, a blend of greens, shaved fennel and orange segments, was very good.  I also added some Greek olives, thinly sliced red onions, and dabs of bleu cheese. The vinaigrette was a blend of orange juice, olive oil and dried tarragon.  Also very good, but I think fresh tarragon would have been more lively.

 

So a good concept for using citrus in a savory application, but it needs some more work.  I'm not showing the photo as it depicts pretty much a mess of lettuce and lamb meatballs, but once I get this thing closer I'll showcase the steps in photos. 

[Anna N]

Inspiration taken from a number of sources. Blood orange and Mineola orange with onion, olives and a dressing of walnut oil, olive oil, sherry vinegar and a smidgen of maple syrup.

Thanks for starting this topic Dave. I have stretched my culinary muscles which is never a bad thing.

[David Ross]

I'd forgotten preserved lemons.  I've got a wonderful duck confit recipe that uses preserved lemons in a salad. 

[Smithy]

I tried a riff on the merguez meatballs last night.  For 1 pound of already-ground lamb I added the zest of 2 Minneola tangelos, 2t each of whole cumin, fennel and coriander seed (toasted, then ground), 2T paprika, about a T each salt and Aleppo pepper. I think some already-ground cumin may also have strayed into the mix. (My notes are a bit hazy at that point.)  I wouldn't have thought of a dipping sauce except for your posts, David.  As an accompaniment I marinated chunks of ripe bell pepper and red onion in some olive oil and the juice of those Minneolas.  When it was time to grill, I boiled down the marinade until it was syrupy, added the juice of 1 orange and boiled that down.  The sauce thickened beautifully, with an unexpectedly gelatinous quality from the outset.  I think it must have picked up something from the vegetables to help it on its way.  It was very, very good.

 

The whole lot was cooked over a campfire in long-handled grill woks.  The only problem was timing: the meatballs came out overcooked, because the onions and peppers were added too late in the cooking process.  Cooking the vegetables in a separate basket would have improved control.

 

At the table, in addition to the dipping sauce we had labne and a parsley/garlic/olive oil sauce.  Those three (separately or in various combinations) did wonders for the dryness of the meat, but aside from being dry the meat's seasonings were perfect to our tastes: a subtle citrusy note, the usual pleasure of cumin, coriander and fennel together, and the sneak heat of the pepper. 

 

Unfortunately the photos don't do it justice, nor do they do justice to this photogenic topic.  If someone's interested in seeing what it looked like, take a gander at Dinner II: The Gallery of Regrettable Meals (Part 2) or Camping, Princess Style.

 

I'll definitely do it again.  Thanks, David.

[David Ross]

My version of preserved lemons-

Just three ingredients, Kosher salt, fresh lemons and good quality olive oil.  Cut the lemons in quarters and place in a wide glass jar.  Sprinkle liberally with salt, then continue adding layers of lemons and salt.  Cover the jar and refrigerate for about 4 days for the salt to "cure" into the lemons.  Drain the liquid and then add olive oil to cover the lemons.  They'll keep for weeks.

 

Tommorrow I'll be serving the preserved lemons in a salad alongside some homemade duck confit.

 

 

 

 

[Smithy]

That's certainly quicker than my version, which takes weeks. Thanks, David. I'll have to try that method.

[David Ross]

I'm so glad someone suggested preserved lemons and reminded me how delicious and unique they are.  I served the preserved lemon two ways--a grilled quarter preserved lemon, the warm juice squeezed over roasted duck confit.  Then I finely julienned some preserved lemon peel and tossed it in a salad of watercress, olives, sliced red onion, shaved fennel, bleu cheese and orange.  The dressing was a blend of orange, grapefruit and lime juice, olive oil (from the preserved lemons), dried marjoram, cracked black pepper, Dijon mustard and salt. 

 

The flavors came together quite well. I got the duck confit a bit too salty this time, but the preserved lemon and the tangy citrus dressing cut through the rich salty duck.  Enjoy.

 

[Smithy]

<snip>

Garlic olive oil-

2 cups extra virgin olive oil, (I prefer the spiciness of Greek olive oil)

10 cloves garlic, minced

Let the garlic steep in the olive oil at least two hours before using.

<snip again>

Dressing-

1 1/2 cups garlic olive oil

3/4 cup fresh squeezed lemon juice

1 2oz. can anchovies, drained, chopped

2 tsp. dry mustard

1 tbsp. Worcestershire sauce

2 tsp. salt

1 egg, coddled, (simmered in hot water for about 2 minutes)

1 tbsp. capers, chopped

Lots of fresh ground black pepper

I just realized that I have a question about this: does the garlic get strained out of the olive oil after being steeped, or is it incorporated into the salad dressing? Is it a matter of personal preference?

[David Ross]

I leave the garlic in the olive oil, but too much garlic can give the oil a bitter flavor so if you think it's a bit too acrid with the garlic, certainly strain it out. 

[David Ross]

I was thinking that it's time to revive our Citrus Fruits Cook-Off since this is the perfect season for citrus fruits.  I'm seeing a lot of blood oranges in our local markets right now so starting to think of a new dish with blood oranges.  Might be something sweet or maybe a savory blood orange dish. What are your best citrus dishes?

[Margaret Pilgrim]

WHOLE LEMON PIE couldn't be easier. 

 

1 unbaked pie shell

 

2 whole lemons, seeded and cut into quarters

1/2 cup softened unsalted butter

4 egg

1 1/2 cups sugar

 

Preheat oven to 350°F.   

 

Chunk lemons, butter, eggs and sugar into blender.    Blend until very light and creamy.    Pour into pie shell.

Bake for 40 minutes, CHECKING AT 35 MINUTES FOR DONENESS.

 

Let cool before dusting with powdered sugar.

 

Super superb if made with Meyer lemon.

[heidih]

I simply use them with abandon since they are just  outside the doors. They are often the acid in my dishes. I like to cut a tangelo or small orange Valencia type) in half and toss in a savory dish like a stew or broth. I make my nuoc mam cham with whatever is juicy. I do a simple kumquat marmalade. I do not care for ham but others do so I make a paste with ground kumquat, garlic, and brown sugar to rub before baking. I do enjoy an orange olive cake like this one. I don't have navels so I use whatever orange is just getting in need of picking - like when the tree is saying "momma please get the weight off my limbs"..  https://leitesculinaria.com/20321/recipes-portuguese-orange-olive-oil-cake.html

[Darienne]

Love citrus fruits.  Especially limes.  Growing up in the far frozen north and eons ago, of course our Mothers never baked anything citrus.   In fact, I doubt that limes were even available.   An orange in the Christmas stocking was a great treat.  

 

Now we have oranges, limes and lemons galore.  I've yet to see a Meyer lemon in one of my local grocery stores, but then we live outside a very what? unsophisticated small Ontario city.  I once bought a Buddha's Hand in Albuquerque and that was fun.   We do get blood oranges but not lots for certain.  

 

My biggest quarrel is with the oranges.  Mostly they are tasteless or next to it and I don't know how to pick a tasty orange.  

 

That orange olive cake sounds fantastic and I am going to make it.  

 

My go-to pie is a lemon cheese pie which is amazing in that it calls for only one package of cream cheese and one egg.  Of course, I make it lime.  And then top it with a dark chocolate ganache.  

[heidih]

@Darienne  The orange olive oil cake freezes well Unless guests/friends coming I will keep some out for myself and freeze the rest. Dead easy. Cuz can not follow strict direction I sometimes add just a sprinkle of ground ginger or cinnamon. Tiny grate of nutmeg or other spice would be good too. Just a hint. 

 

On selecting oranges - that is tough as there is no sniff or feel test. It is not your lack of expertise it is the nature of the beast. I do not care for navels. Always (almost) a sure flavor with tangerines or tangelos. Basic orange to me is a Valencia type (juice oranges  - no greenies allowed). Bordering me is a city called Orange - 

[heidih]

I mentioned kumquat jam earlier. This is the recipe I riff on. I don't use the booze - I think it loses its sprightliness when added. Small batch so no canning drama.

http://www.amateurgourmet.com/2013/05/sunday-morning-kumquat-jam.html

[JoNorvelleWalker]

Mai tai.

 

[gfweb]

Mandarin slices in a salad tonight, accompanying a braised short rib ragu. 

[heidih]

We had a decent downpour today so not able to take pictures. Will try tomorrow. Our season is late but the trees are grateful and responding to the recent rains. The frost was not pretty.

[kayb]

I guess my favorite citrus dish of all time has to be lemon icebox pie. 2 cans condensed milk, five eggs, 3/4 cup lemon juice. Two pie shells (I usually use the graham cracker ones). Bake 20 minutes at 350 and chill overnight. Serve with a dollop of whipped cream.

 

I must have made a million of 'em over the years.

 

[David Ross]

8 minutes ago, kayb said:

I guess my favorite citrus dish of all time has to be lemon icebox pie. 2 cans condensed milk, five eggs, 3/4 cup lemon juice. Two pie shells (I usually use the graham cracker ones). Bake 20 minutes at 350 and chill overnight. Serve with a dollop of whipped cream.

 

I must have made a million of 'em over the years.

 

I think I'll make that this week.  Mother made it, but I've never made one so now is the time.  We're seeing good big hard lemons in our markets right now.  I detest the times of year when all we get are little lemons with thin skins and they're already soft when the supermarket puts them out.

[Margaret Pilgrim]

26 minutes ago, kayb said:

I guess my favorite citrus dish of all time has to be lemon icebox pie. 2 cans condensed milk, five eggs, 3/4 cup lemon juice. Two pie shells (I usually use the graham cracker ones). Bake 20 minutes at 350 and chill overnight. Serve with a dollop of whipped cream.

 

I must have made a million of 'em over the years.

 

Thanks for reminding us of this workhorse, my m-i-l's "go to".       She topped it with (canned) cherry pie filling.    I let the lemon flavor carry the load.   I also don't bother with a crust but rather butter the mold and simply coat it with graham or cookie crumbs.    Lighter and enough suggestion of crust.

[Darienne]

9 minutes ago, Margaret Pilgrim said:

Thanks for reminding us of this workhorse, my m-i-l's "go to".       She topped it with (canned) cherry pie filling.    I let the lemon flavor carry the load.   I also don't bother with a crust but rather butter the mold and simply coat it with graham or cookie crumbs.    Lighter and enough suggestion of crust.

And I'd go for the crust and then top it with a dark chocolate ganache.  But then I'll top just about anything with a dark chocolate ganache.

[heidih]

Checked on the old kumquat. Apparently the rains have impacted positively. The fruit smells great. So...marmalade on deck within a week or so. 

 

Edited March 25, 2020 by heidih (log)

[Katie Meadow]

This morning my husband and I made an ersatz Atlantic Beach Pie. Ersatz because he isn't crazy about the saltine crust, so we made a crust with biscotti. As if saltines aren't ersatz enough for a pie crust!Totally easy and you could probably use various flavors of biscotti, whatever was on hand or your favorite.  Isn't the filling pretty similar to a lemon icebox pie? Lots of lemon juice, 4 egg yolks, one can of sweetened condensed milk and a handful of zest. Still in the fridge, to be eaten as a late dessert. I need a LOT of treats these days.

[kayb]

15 hours ago, Katie Meadow said:

This morning my husband and I made an ersatz Atlantic Beach Pie. Ersatz because he isn't crazy about the saltine crust, so we made a crust with biscotti. As if saltines aren't ersatz enough for a pie crust!Totally easy and you could probably use various flavors of biscotti, whatever was on hand or your favorite.  Isn't the filling pretty similar to a lemon icebox pie? Lots of lemon juice, 4 egg yolks, one can of sweetened condensed milk and a handful of zest. Still in the fridge, to be eaten as a late dessert. I need a LOT of treats these days.

 

Yep, that's pretty close to lemon icebox pie. I do mine with a graham cracker or vanilla wafer crust, which is pretty close to biscotti....