Cooking with "Chocolates and Confections" by Peter Greweling (Part 2)

[Spring]

[Moderator note: The original topic became too large for our servers to handle efficiently, so we've divided it up; the preceding part of this discussion is here: Cooking with "Chocolates and Confections" by Peter Greweling (Part 1)]

I got my book yesterday
OMG this is not a book, this is The Book.
What a fantastic birthday present to myself, I am (almost) speechless.
Ive tried 2 recipes and cant wait to try more. I highly recommend it. If anyone is interested in chocolate sand confections they must get it.
I will post photos later. Heartfelt thanks to all of you who recommend it

Edited November 19, 2013 by Mjx
Moderator note added. (log)

[digigirl]

Okay, I've got The Book (and I agree, it is The Book) and I've read through it (and a couple of others). And I've read through much of this thread, as long as it is, but if the answer to my question is here, I've missed it.

Pretty much all the ganache recipes call for glucose syrup. He mentions invert sugar in the ingredients description as an alternate sweetener, but then doesn't say when or how to use it. I have neither glucose syrup nor invert sugar in my pantry.

I know honey is similar to invert sugar, but what about glucose syrup? Are they interchangeable? I know invert sugar is sweeter, but otherwise, can one be substituted for the other? And so, by the same token, could honey be used instead of either?

The only source I have for either is online and while that's not a huge problem, it means I can't make something right now, like I'd like to. If I can use honey, well then....

Any input from all you experienced chocolatiers for a clueless newbie?

Valerie

[Kerry Beal]

Okay, I've got The Book (and I agree, it is The Book) and I've read through it (and a couple of others).  And I've read through much of this thread, as long as it is, but if the answer to my question is here, I've missed it.

Pretty much all the ganache recipes call for glucose syrup.  He mentions invert sugar in the ingredients description as an alternate sweetener, but then doesn't say when or how to use it.  I have neither glucose syrup nor invert sugar in my pantry. 

I know honey is similar to invert sugar, but what about glucose syrup?  Are they interchangeable?  I know invert sugar is sweeter, but otherwise, can one be substituted for the other?  And so, by the same token, could honey be used instead of either?

The only source I have for either is online and while that's not a huge problem, it means I can't make something right now, like I'd like to.  If I can use honey, well then....

Any input from all you experienced chocolatiers for a clueless newbie? 

Valerie

←

Valerie,

White corn syrup is just glucose with a bit of additional water and some vanilla flavouring - so you can use white Karo syrup (or the no name version) where it calls for glucose.

Invert sugar can be replaced by honey where the flavour won't be compromised, or failing that make your own. Thanks to Will Goldfarb for the recipe from the spanish patisserie book Los Helados - Heat 430 grams water to 50º C, add 1 kg sugar, heat to 80º C, add 4 grams citric acid, cool to 65 ºC and add 5 grams of baking soda. Store at room temperature. (note: original recipe is 9 kg water, 21 kg sugar, 90 g citric acid and 110 g bicarbonate).

[digigirl]

Kerry, thank you for the speedy reply! I do have karo syrup in my pantry, so that puts me back in business.

So the question would be, then, when would one use glucose instead of invert sugar and vice versa? My understanding is that they both serve basically the same purpose - prolonging shelf life, sweetening, etc. So why would I choose one over the other and in what circumstances? Should I keep both on hand for different situations?

[Kerry Beal]

Kerry, thank you for the speedy reply!  I do have karo syrup in my pantry, so that puts me back in business.

So the question would be, then, when would one use glucose instead of invert sugar and vice versa?  My understanding is that they both serve basically the same purpose - prolonging shelf life, sweetening, etc.  So why would I choose one over the other and in what circumstances?  Should I keep both on hand for different situations?

←

Glucose is less sweet than sugar (ie sucrose), invert sugar is more sweet than sugar. I put a bit of glucose in most truffles I make. I don't use a lot of invert sugar - have it for recipes that call for it specifically.

I tend to use a whole lot of glucose in candy making ie for caramels etc.

[digigirl]

Glucose is less sweet than sugar (ie sucrose), invert sugar is more sweet than sugar.  I put a bit of glucose in most truffles I make.  I don't use a lot of invert sugar - have it for recipes that call for it specifically. 

I tend to use a whole lot of glucose in candy making ie for caramels etc.

←

Do you use the glucose in place of regular sugar in recipes? Or are you making judgment calls based on your experience to determine how much to use? I've made caramels before, but always with non-professional recipes that just called for sugar and other regular kitchen ingredients, so I'm not sure how I would make that substitution.

Do you find that it makes better caramels than regular sugar?

[Kerry Beal]

Glucose is less sweet than sugar (ie sucrose), invert sugar is more sweet than sugar.   I put a bit of glucose in most truffles I make.  I don't use a lot of invert sugar - have it for recipes that call for it specifically. 

I tend to use a whole lot of glucose in candy making ie for caramels etc.

←

Do you use the glucose in place of regular sugar in recipes? Or are you making judgment calls based on your experience to determine how much to use? I've made caramels before, but always with non-professional recipes that just called for sugar and other regular kitchen ingredients, so I'm not sure how I would make that substitution.

Do you find that it makes better caramels than regular sugar?

←

Caramels use both sucrose and glucose. The glucose helps prevent crystallization after cooking. Check out the recipe and descriptions here in the caramel class in the eGCI. Just use your Karo syrup.

It makes a really nice caramel. Give it a try.

Edited August 23, 2008 by Kerry Beal (log)

[digigirl]

Thanks Kerry!

[scratch]

Kerry & Valerie,

Thanks for the great questions and information! Mystery solved!!

Edited August 26, 2008 by scratch (log)

[digigirl]

Another question!

Greweling says, in recipes, to "massage the butter into the chocolate." What exactly does that mean?

I took a chocolate class at Sur la Table last year and when we made the ganache, we poured the hot cream over the chocolate wafers, let it sit for a little bit, then stirred gently with a rubber spatula in concentric circles starting at the center. After it was emulsified, we added the liquor and then the very soft butter, which was also stirred in.

Greweling wants the butter massaged into melted chocolate before adding the cream. Is massaging the same as stirring? Or is there some technique here I'm not getting?

I'd like to try the method described elsewhere on this board by SteveKlc (I think - hope I got that right!) of pouring the melted chocolate into the cream (instead of vice versa). And I think the butter is added at the end of that procedure also.

Any input from y'all who have done some of these Greweling recipes already?

[David Israel]

Another question!

Greweling says, in recipes, to "massage the butter into the chocolate."  What exactly does that mean?

I took a chocolate class at Sur la Table last year and when we made the ganache, we poured the hot cream over the chocolate wafers, let it sit for a little bit, then stirred gently with a rubber spatula in concentric circles starting at the center.  After it was emulsified, we added the liquor and then the very soft butter, which was also stirred in.

Greweling wants the butter massaged into melted chocolate before adding the cream.  Is massaging the same as stirring?  Or is there some technique here I'm not getting?

I'd like to try the method described elsewhere on this board by SteveKlc (I think - hope I got that right!) of pouring the melted chocolate into the cream (instead of vice versa).  And I think the butter is added at the end of that procedure also.

Any input from y'all who have done some of these Greweling recipes already?

←

When I've made ganaches from Greweling's book that call for "massaging" the butter into the chocolate, I've added the very soft (i.e., around 85 degrees F) butter into the tempered chocolate and stirred it until it was incorporated. I believe the key here is to ensure no lumps of butter remain; if needed I've worked any such lumps between the side of the bowl and the spatula to smooth them out. Once the butter's added you'll see the chocolate thicken considerably.

Now, if only the ganache would massage me!

[emmalish]

I made the marshmallows yesterday – they turned out great! I've never made marshmallows before, so I was a little nervous. And frankly, I've never really been fond of them – but I've only ever had the mass-produced things. These are amazing.

I made a half batch, and after whipping for 8 minutes they were still light and fluffy and really easy to spread in the pan (which made me a bit nervous, because I'd read that other people have trouble spreading the marshmallows). They seem fine – they set up nicely, and they're all sliced and coated and waiting to be eaten.

So today I decided I'd try making his hot chocolates. Again, a half batch, but this time the marshmallow set up really quickly and I had a really hard time spreading it in the pan (not to mention getting it out of the bowl). It looks pretty clumpy, but because I'll be spreading a ganache over it later I'm not too concerned. I'm going to assume that because it's a much smaller amount than the other batch I made, it cooled too quickly. What I've tasted so far is quite nice. I had the same problem that someone else mentioned (here or in the marshmallows thread) that the cinnamon sank to the bottom of the bowl and wasn't properly incorporated in the final marshmallow. Still tastes cinnamon-y though. Can't wait to finish them off. I'll post pics then...

Edited August 31, 2008 by emmalish (log)

[Darienne]

Hello all,

I am a new member of eG and a great fan of the Greweling book, which is THE book as some have said.

Slowly I am working my way through this long and interesting thread, along with a number of other long and interesting threads, and don't feel as if I have anything to say until I get further along in my reading.

However, there is one question on my mind and perhaps someone could tell me where on this thread I might find the answer.

Greweling never seems to use 70% chocolate in any recipe. He states in the intro that he is using 64% dark, but does he say why he never uses 70% at all? I find it wonderful to enrobe sweet centers, to counteract the 'sweetness' factor.

BTW, the very best confection I have made to date is Greweling's Montielimar nougat. Joy reigned supreme while eating that nougat which was so perfect in every way. But can I do it again? Definitely a two-person job and I did it with my partner in candy, Barbara.

Thanks for any 70% answers.

[Kerry Beal]

Hello all,

I am a new member of eG and a great fan of the Greweling book, which is THE book as some have said.

Slowly I am working my way through this long and interesting thread, along with a number of other long and interesting threads, and don't feel as if I have anything to say until I get further along in my reading.

However, there is one question on my mind and perhaps someone could tell me where on this thread I might find the answer.

Greweling never seems to use 70% chocolate in any recipe.  He states in the intro that he is using 64% dark, but does he say why he never uses 70% at all?  I find it wonderful to enrobe sweet centers, to counteract the 'sweetness' factor.

BTW, the very best confection I have made to date is Greweling's Montielimar nougat.  Joy reigned supreme while eating that nougat which was so perfect in every way.  But can I do it again?  Definitely a two-person job and I did it with my partner in candy, Barbara.

Thanks for any 70% answers.

←

Probably not a satisfactory answer, but I think we all tend to use what we use. Some folks get involved in showcasing the distinct flavours of different origin chocolates, others in the techniques of decoration. Ultimately It comes down to choosing chocolate you like and can work with.

Greweling's recipes are certainly not set in stone. Subbing different chocolates may improve his recipes in some areas and may result in failures in others. depending on the cocoa vs cocoa butter percentages - but go for it - it's only chocolate!

[Darienne]

go for it - it's only chocolate!

←

Thanks Kerry. And thanks for encouraging me to join eG.

That's what I intend to do...go for it!

[Habeas Brulee]

Darienne - I've been using 70% chocolate in making some of the chocolates from this book, adapting the recipes to dark chocolate as needed, and it works out great. Don't worry!

[Darienne]

Darienne - I've been using 70% chocolate in making some of the chocolates from this book, adapting the recipes to dark chocolate as needed, and it works out great. Don't worry!

←

Thanks Habeas,

When you say 'adapting', what do you mean? Are you adding something else, or more of some ingredient or less of some ingredient?

[Darienne]

Has anyone made Greweling's Lemon Mint Ganache, p.122, and how did it turn out?

Looking through Greweling today I saw that nowhere in this recipe does it say to remove the mint, 'chopped very finely', from the ganache. The photo shows these lovely creamy white fillings dipped in a dark chocolate.

Friends had a truffle making session Christmas 07, and we made a mint flavored ganache, also in white chocolate. The mint chopper chopped the mint very finely. We steeped, etc...however, we strained out the mint as best we could. The resulting ganache was a green color which I hesitate to describe. It was not appealing. We reluctantly all agreed it looked exactly like something quite familiar and very unappealing. Tasted great!

How did Greweling get that beautiful color in his ganache with all that finely chopped mint?

[emmalish]

Has anyone made Greweling's Lemon Mint Ganache, p.122,  and how did it turn out?

Looking through Greweling today I saw that nowhere in this recipe does it say to remove the mint, 'chopped very finely', from the ganache.  The photo shows these lovely creamy white fillings dipped in a dark chocolate.

←

I've made it once. I left the mint in, and it's really not very visible. It's chopped very finely and spread out sparsely through the ganache, so you won't see it much at all. I'm tempted to zest my lemon and keep it in rather than taking the peel out next time I try this one. And I definitely will try it again. Very nice flavours.

Here's a pic of how mine turned out...

You can barely see a little bit of green in the upper right side of the sliced one. The finished ganache is a very pale yellowy-green, almost white.

(please ignore how pixel-y this image is – I forgot I had my ISO set too high)

[Darienne]

(deleted the wrong quotey thingies...)

Here's a pic of how mine turned out...

You can barely see a little bit of green in the upper right side of the sliced one. The finished ganache is a very pale yellowy-green, almost white.

Hi Emmalish. You're right. Yours look lovely. The other strange thing about ours is that we used far less mint then Greweling called for. The mint was fresh. It was strained out. What more can I say? It was a gruesome color. We are it anyway.

I'll try it again...

Edited September 18, 2008 by Darienne (log)

[emmalish]

So today I decided I'd try making his hot chocolates. Again, a half batch, but this time the marshmallow set up really quickly and I had a really hard time spreading it in the pan (not to mention getting it out of the bowl). It looks pretty clumpy, but because I'll be spreading a ganache over it later I'm not too concerned. I'm going to assume that because it's a much smaller amount than the other batch I made, it cooled too quickly. What I've tasted so far is quite nice. I had the same problem that someone else mentioned (here or in the marshmallows thread) that the cinnamon sank to the bottom of the bowl and wasn't properly incorporated in the final marshmallow. Still tastes cinnamon-y though. Can't wait to finish them off. I'll post pics then...

←

I finally got around to taking a photo of these.

As I said upthread, the marshmallows set up too quickly and ended up all lumpy, so you can see that there's crazy variation in the thickness of the two layers. The instructions in the recipe said to use 2 sets of 1/4" rulers, but if you look at the picture in the book the marshmallow layer appears quite a bit thicker than the ganache. I think next time I make these I'll make a full batch of the marshmallow (since a half batch was so difficult to work with), spread it using 3/8" rulers, and then top that with 1/4" of ganache.

Overall I really like these. I need to find a better way to add the cinnamon so it doesn't just sink to the bottom though.

I'm not quite sure what happened, but the coating of chocolate seems too thick on the tops. It didn't seem any thicker than usual when I was working with it. Although I have to say, I always thought I'd done a pretty good job with my tempering before this. But when I bit into my first hot chocolate, it sounded like I'd bitten a carrot. Such a snap!

[Desiderio]

They look pretty good!

For the cinnamon what about cinnamon oil? We use it in the Pastiera to keep the filling from getting dark due the cinnamon powder. Now I don't know how that will react with the marshmallow batter, maybe ill try it myself.

[patris]

They look pretty good!

For the cinnamon what about cinnamon oil? We use it in the Pastiera to keep the filling from getting dark due the cinnamon powder. Now I don't know how that will react with the marshmallow batter, maybe ill try it myself.

←

We use cinnamon extract in ours - it works perfectly. I worry about putting flavoring oils in marshmallow, because I think it might interfere with aeration or, at the very least, the final texture.

[emmalish]

Thanks for the advice, both of you! I just ordered some flavourings and I'm pretty sure one of them was cinnamon. I can't remember whether it's an extract or an oil though.

[Tri2Cook]

For cinnamon marshmallows, I cook cinnamon sticks in the pan with the syrup then pull them out before adding the syrup to the mixer. Caramelizing a little sugar with the cinnamon sticks then adding in the rest of the syrup ingredients gives a really nice flavor as well.