Jump to content
  • Welcome to the eG Forums, a service of the eGullet Society for Culinary Arts & Letters. The Society is a 501(c)3 not-for-profit organization dedicated to the advancement of the culinary arts. These advertising-free forums are provided free of charge through donations from Society members. Anyone may read the forums, but to post you must create a free account.

KaffirLime

Sous Vide: Recipes, Techniques & Equipment (Part 4)

Recommended Posts

Sam - very interesting - this is the first time I've done a SV turkey - what happens to the skin that you don't like? Do you find it similar to what happens to chicken skin?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Keller does not seem to like strong flavors - notice how he wraps his aromatics in plastic when cooking sous vide - and he may feel that the flavor of the aromatics in the juices is too strong.

The herb sashes are not designed to suppress flavor, but to prevent the herbs from overwhelming the portion of the food they are in contact with. The sides are left open so the flavors can mix freely with other liquid in the bag. It's simply a technique for distributing the flavors evenly.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Sam - very interesting - this is the first time I've done a SV turkey - what happens to the skin that you don't like? Do you find it similar to what happens to chicken skin?

Somewhat similar, yes. Except that turkey skin is overall considerably thicker and tougher than chicken skin. SV chicken skin can be reasonably crisped up with a blowtorch, or a very short trip in a blazing-hit frypan. Not so turkey skin, IMO, which takes considerably longer to render out (there is a layer of gelatinous subcutaneous fat under the skin). Either way, it seems to end up either tough as a board or flabby. either way, not the treat that chicken skin can be.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I have a FoodSaver that has the Pulse vac feature and removable drip tray. I sometimes freeze the marinade in ice-cube trays BUT I usually don't. With the pulse feature, you get only a little liquid (which goes into the removable drip tray) when you get the air out. It works well-enough that I rarely free the marinade ahead of time.

I have a foodsaver pro 2 (and another older,completely manual one) Is there something like that I am missing with these things to do SV???

Any direction would be appreciated...

Bud

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Anyone planning on cooking a turkey sous vide?

I am. Making 2 turkey ballotines out of 1 whole bronze turkey.

I'm going roast off one of the ballotines as normal in an oven

and the other i'm going to SV.

I plan to Jaccard and butterfly the breasts.

Make a stuffing out of diced brown meat with sage and onion and then form

the roll.

Vacseal it and SV at 65C for 4 hours.

The turkey skin I'm going to made into skin crackers.

how are you planning to make your?

I'm going to cook it with butter, sage and thyme and garlic. There's a video of Grant Achatz on youtube cooking it this way. He does it in a ziplock bag. I don't have a plastic vac so I'll have to do it this way.


Edited by savvysearch (log)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Since it is virtually impossible to extract all the air from a ziploc bag how do you prevent it from floating? I ask this question because even though I have a Foodsaver occasionally my bag of vegetables seems to retain a little air and it floats.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Ballast?

Maybe a teaspoon would be excessive, but a few ceramic baking beans should do the trick, shouldn't it?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thank you. I was just thinking of going out to the back yard to collect some pebbles. Presumably the beans would be a touch more hygienic!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

so any person in the uk...whats the cheapest method of doing this in a home?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I have a FoodSaver that has the Pulse vac feature and removable drip tray. I sometimes freeze the marinade in ice-cube trays BUT I usually don't. With the pulse feature, you get only a little liquid (which goes into the removable drip tray) when you get the air out. It works well-enough that I rarely free the marinade ahead of time.

I have a foodsaver pro 2 (and another older,completely manual one) Is there something like that I am missing with these things to do SV???

Any direction would be appreciated...

Bud

What is it that you'd like to know? If you don't have the pulse option on your FoodSaver then you probably want to freeze any liquids that will be in the bag. If that is the case, then either seal one end of the bag and put the liquids in the bag and then freeze before vacuuming and sealing. Or, freeze the liquids in ice cube trays and add them to the bag before vac'ing and sealing.

If I totally misinterpreted your question, re-phrase.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
so any person in the uk...whats the cheapest method of doing this in a home?

Auber Instruments http://auberins.com/index.php?main_page=pr...6afb0e707fbc467 ship to the UK

Pair that with a low cost slow cooker, rice cooker or a steam table.

For professional use CLifton Industries http://www.cliftonfoodrange.co.uk/ or Grant Instruments http://www.grantsousvide.com/ tend to be used

You can buy foodsavers or vacuum sealers online from many sources

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I have a FoodSaver that has the Pulse vac feature and removable drip tray. I sometimes freeze the marinade in ice-cube trays BUT I usually don't. With the pulse feature, you get only a little liquid (which goes into the removable drip tray) when you get the air out. It works well-enough that I rarely free the marinade ahead of time.

I have a foodsaver pro 2 (and another older,completely manual one) Is there something like that I am missing with these things to do SV???

Any direction would be appreciated...

Bud

What is it that you'd like to know? If you don't have the pulse option on your FoodSaver then you probably want to freeze any liquids that will be in the bag. If that is the case, then either seal one end of the bag and put the liquids in the bag and then freeze before vacuuming and sealing. Or, freeze the liquids in ice cube trays and add them to the bag before vac'ing and sealing.

If I totally misinterpreted your question, re-phrase.

Both of my machines have an area that catches stuff that flows out of the bag on vaccuming , but the liquid still fouls the seal..

I guess that I don't know what the "pulse" option is or if I have it...the older machine is totally manual, and you can control when you seal. The Pro 2 has an overide of the vac process so you can vac as much you want before letting it seal. or seal at any time..What does the"pulse " option do???

Sorry for the confusion...

Bud

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The pulse option has a button that you press that vacuums while it is held down. So, you can 'pulse' it for a second. And then pulse again and keep on doing that until the air is out and little or no liquid has been pulled out of the bag. When the bag is vac'ed to your liking you then press the seal button. Even if some liquid gets pulled out, my FoodSaver has no problem making a seal. Mine is maybe a year old. My old foodsaver did not seal well when the bag in the sealing area had liquid in it. So, I think that they have made some improvements in that respect.

Does the liquid prevent your foodsaver from making a good seal?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I have a Pro 2300 from these guys, and have not found bagging with a fair amount of liquid to be any problem. For Thanksgiving, I made several Keller dishes from Under Pressure (more on this anon) which included much larger amounts of liquid than I would ordinarily ever put into a SV bag. For various reasons, it proved impractical or unfeasible to pre-freeze the liquids. I figured I'd just keep my eye on the vacuum chamber and hit the "manual seal" button if a lot of liquid started coming out of the bag. I never actually had to do this. I held the bags so that there was always a clear "channel" for the air (no air pockets at the back of the bag). The air was always evacuated first, and while a small amount of liquid (perhaps 1/4 tsp) would typically come out of the end of the bag, the machine would always go over to sealing just at that moment -- before I had a chance to hit the manual seal button. The result was bags sealed with plenty of liquid and no residual air.

gallery_8505_416_263516.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
The pulse option has a button that you press that vacuums while it is held down. So, you can 'pulse' it for a second. And then pulse again and keep on doing that until the air is out and little or no liquid has been pulled out of the bag. When the bag is vac'ed to your liking you then press the seal button. Even if some liquid gets pulled out, my FoodSaver has no problem making a seal. Mine is maybe a year old. My old foodsaver did not seal well when the bag in the sealing area had liquid in it. So, I think that they have made some improvements in that respect.

Does the liquid prevent your foodsaver from making a good seal?

Yes if its wet, it does not seal well. The proII has a seperate button to seal, so I guess I could keep and eye on it and hit it if the liquid starts to go towards the sealing area...It seals better than the older one, but still not good wet..Thanks..

Bud

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
so any person in the uk...whats the cheapest method of doing this in a home?

Auber Instruments http://auberins.com/index.php?main_page=pr...6afb0e707fbc467 ship to the UK

Pair that with a low cost slow cooker, rice cooker or a steam table.

For professional use CLifton Industries http://www.cliftonfoodrange.co.uk/ or Grant Instruments http://www.grantsousvide.com/ tend to be used

You can buy foodsavers or vacuum sealers online from many sources

thank you very much

will this : http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/MORPHY-RICHARDS-6-5-...A1%7C240%3A1318 be allright with it?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
so any person in the uk...whats the cheapest method of doing this in a home?

Auber Instruments http://auberins.com/index.php?main_page=pr...6afb0e707fbc467 ship to the UK

Pair that with a low cost slow cooker, rice cooker or a steam table.

For professional use CLifton Industries http://www.cliftonfoodrange.co.uk/ or Grant Instruments http://www.grantsousvide.com/ tend to be used

You can buy foodsavers or vacuum sealers online from many sources

thank you very much

will this : http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/MORPHY-RICHARDS-6-5-...A1%7C240%3A1318 be allright with it?

Don't see why not. You want to make sure it does not have a fancy electronic control/timer, so that the external controller can vary the heat by turning the power on and off.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Found a long lost bone in strip steak in my freezer and decided to turn it into my first sous vide steak. The beef was dry aged, prime. After defrosting I hit is with salt, pepper, and a bit of frozen olive oil. Cooked it about fifty minutes at 57.7 degrees then seared a single side in a roaring skillet for about 40 seconds. I flipped it over for just a few more seconds because the gray sous vide exterior is so unappetizing. Finished with some more fleur de sel and very good olive oil. Results were phenomenal.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I'm probably asking something on par with turning water to wine

but anyone know how I can turn SV turkey into something that would actually be nice?

I made two turkey ballotines yesterday one with a leek, sage and onion stuffing and one with a porcini, mushroom stuffing.

Bagged them and cooked them at 64C for 5 hours.

The flavours were nice but i really didn't like the texture.

Everytime I have had turkey it has had that crumbly texture anyone know what temperature or what i can do to stop it being like that or at least make it a little bit smoother.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The following table was compiled by Camano Chef, posted here to preserve the formatting of the table. All of the contents are his.

This post is a summary of the sous vides temperatures and time for quite a variety of foods.  I compiled this list from reading the entire sous vide thread on EGullet and adding information from Tom Keller's books,  "French Laundry" and "Under Pressure".  You will note that several different temperatures/times are given for some food items, ie. fish @ 43.5 C and at 49C. or pork chops @ 54.5C and 60C, etc. these merely represent what others have reported success with.  I have given many sources for my information.  Nothing in my efforts in any way conflicts with the excellent posts by NathanM and Baldwin.

I hope my effort will, in some small way, contribute to the use and refinement of this wonderful technique.



 
C F DESCRIPTION NOTES
       
43.5 110 FISH RARE
       
45 113 LOBSTER USE THICKNESS TABLE-ADD BUTTER-/NATHANM POST 454
      TWO TBS BUTTER PER TAIL
       
46 115 SHRIMP 15'-20'
       
49 120 FISH MED RARE
    MONK FISH 40-35'
       
50 122 SHRIMP POST # 1651
       
52 125 TENDER MEAT RARE
    SALMON MED-RARE
       
54.5 130 TENDER MEAT MED-RARE
    PORK CHOPS LONG COOK- 12 HOURS
    TOUGH MEAT LONG COOK-24-48 HOURS
      MY BEEF SHORT RIBS
      FLATIRON & TRI TIP
       
55 131 LOBSTER POST # 1651
       
56 133 SALMON TRY NEXT
       
       
57 135 BRISKET 36-48 HOURS
    MED RARE STEAK ~30'-/NATHANM
    CHICKEN BREAST "LITTLE PINK"-POST # 1145
       
59.5 139.1 LOBSTER TAILS FRENCH LAUNDRY-15'
       
60 140 FISH MEDIUM
    TENDER MEAT MEDIUM
    PORK CHOPS TRADITIONAL
    TOUGH MEAT LONG COOK-34-48 HOURS
    TURKEY BREAST POST # 2179
    CHICKEN BREAST POST # 2117
    VEAL LIVER MEDIUM-40'(+DEMIGLACE+CARMEL. ONION-POST # 1941
       
       
61 141 FOIS GRAS PER NATHANM-POST #313
    CHICKEN BREASTS 1+30-POSTS #'S 1098 & 1517
       
62.5 144.5 EGG FRENCH LAUNDRY
    FISH  
       
63 145 EGG EGS-POACHED OVERNIGHT-BAD RESULT
      WHITES=TRANSLUCENT, GELATINOUS
       
63.5 146 POULTRY BREAST MEDIUM
    TENDER MEAT WELL
    BRISKET FL-48 HOURS
    PORK BELLY  
       
64.5 148 "PERFECT" EGG 45'-1 HOUR
       
65 150 POULTRY BREAST MEDIUM WELL
    ASPARAGAS 6-8'-SHOCK ICE WATER
    CARROTS POST # 1576
       
68 155 PULLED PORK 24 HOURS
    PORK RIBS 24 HOURS
       
76.7 170 PORK RIBS 6 HRS-SMOKE FIRST-POST# 1504
       
80 176 POULTRY LEG CONFIT 8-12 HOURS
    BRISKET /BALDWIN-24-36 HOURS
    PULLED PORK 8-12 HOURS
    PORK RIBS 8-12 HOURS
    LAMB SHANKS 8HOUS / NATHANM
       
82.2 180 DUCK LEG CONFIT FRENCH LAUNDRY-10-12 HRS /NATHANM
    PORK BELLY FRENCH LAUNDRY-8+ HRS-RENDERS SOME FAT-NATHANM
       
85 185 CORN SOUP FRENCH LAUNDRY
    MOST VEGETABLES  
    ASPARAGUS,WHITE 20'-(+SUGAR + SALT) TKELLER
    CARROTS 1+00-CUT 2" LONG- ADD BUTTER TO BAG

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The quote for the white asparagus is from Tom Keller in "under Pressure. It means 20 minutes plus sugar plus salt.

The quote for carrots means 1 hour with carrots cut into 2 inch long strips with butter added to the bag. I didn't add that I usually add dill and cut the carrots into about 1/4" to 3/8" by 2" long. This is derived from Tom Keller's "Under Pressure" in his vegetable section.

I commonly use ' for minutes and hour-minute format as 1+20, meaning 1 hour plus 20 minutes

Many of the temperatures are derived from the addendum to "Under Pressure". When I started this project I was compiling this data for myself and did not start adding proper attributions for the source of the information. Much other information was derived from posts to this section.

Sorry for the confusion.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.

  • Similar Content

    • By lindaj1
      Is there any recipe from the modernist universe or any other galaxy to make ketogenic (low carb) puff pastry and strudel type doughs?  Unusual ingredients OK.  There must be a way...
    • By haresfur
      I got to thinking after the disgusting job of separating globs of fat from sous vide short ribs and debating never doing them that way again. If the fat renders out in a braise, but not in the sous vide, what temperature would you need to turn the fat liquid to get rid of it? Is it below well-done or do you really have to cook the shit out of it? Is it just temperature or a time&temperature thing?
       
      Along those lines, what happens with marbled, tender cuts? where is the sweet spot between solid fat and something more palatable?
    • By Daily Gullet Staff
      By John Sconzo

      The Daily Gullet is proud to present this, the first in a multi-part, front-row report on the recent "Spain and the World Table" conference. Watch for subsequent installments in this topic.

      In his introduction of Ferran Adria, Thomas Keller -- perhaps the most celebrated American chef ever -- described four elements that go into making a great chef. The chef must be aware. Once aware of one’s culinary and other surroundings that chef can then be inspired, which leads to the ability to interpret those surroundings. But a great chef does not stop there. Instead, the great chef continues to evolve. Ferran Adria, perhaps more than any other chef who has ever lived, is the embodiment of those four elements.

      The moment that Ferran Adria strode towards Thomas Keller on the stage at the CIA/Greystone’s World of Flavors’ “Spain and the World Table” Conference was electric -- as if a giant Van de Graf generator had been turned on. The feeling didn’t subside when Adria took the stage from Keller; it only became more pronounced as the packed crowd rose to its feet, raining applause, admiration and love on the Spanish master. Adria accepted the response with aplomb, and gave it right back to the audience -- and to his fellow Spanish cocineros, who were standing off to the side. He brought each one up to join him on the stage for a rousing thank-you to the conference organizers, sponsors and participants. Once this emotional release subsided, Adria got down to what everyone had been waiting for -- his discussion and demonstration.

      Ferran Adria, with eyes sparkling like the finest cava, began speaking Spanish in a voice as gravelly as the beaches of the Costa Brava, while Conference Chairman Jose Andres translated. The crowd, hushed and straining for every word, moved forward in their seats as Adria explained El Bulli and himself, with a lesson in recent culinary history thrown in. Ferran explained that El Bulli is not a business. While offshoots of El Bulli are operated on a for-profit basis, the restaurant runs without profit as a primary motivation. For example, he said, the greatest difficulty they have is distributing reservations. Given the extraordinary demand and the severely limited supply, he explained that they could simply raise the price of a meal to the point where the supply and demand met. Indeed, the price of a meal at El Bulli is in itself quite reasonable given the stature of the restaurant and well within means of most motivated diners should they be able to get there, and this is how Adria prefers it. He stated that he was not interested in cooking solely for those with the most money. He prefers to work for people with a true interest in exploring the limits of cooking with him. To this end he showed a short film depicting “A Day in the Life . . .” of El Bulli set to the Beatles’ song of the same name. The film showed a couple’s response to the experience.

      Ferran’s voyage into creativity began with a visit to Jacques Maxima at Le Chanticleer Restaurant in Nice, France. He learned from Maxima that to be creative is not to copy. This idea changed his entire approach to cooking -- from making classic cuisine to making his own. Aware of elaborate books of French cuisine, Adria resolved to catalogue his work, the results of which are the richly detailed El Bulli books, published by period. These books, as wonderful as they are, are huge and extremely expensive. During his presentation, Adria announced -- and demonstrated -- that the individual dishes photographed and described in a chronology within each book are all now available online at elbulli.com.

      He finished the philosophical discussion by talking about the general style of haute cuisine that he and others are engaged in. While others have coined the term “molecular gastronomy” to highlight the scientific component of the creativity involved, Adria rejected it, saying that all cooking is molecular: most of his techniques are in fact rather simple and don’t employ radical new technology. Most of the technology that they do use has been around for some time; they have simply adapted it to their own purposes. Nevertheless, he applauds contributions to gastronomy from Harold McGee and other food scientists, and welcomes their collaboration in the kitchen. He has yet to find a term that describes the movement: as of now, he feels that there really is no good name for this style of cooking.

      More than any other single thing, Ferran Adria is known for the use of “foams” in cooking. While he is proud of his achievements with foams, he stressed that while appropriate in some circumstances, the real utility of foams is limited. He bemoans their ubiquity -- and wishes to not be blamed for others’ poor deployment of the concept. In the course of describing this and other techniques, Adria made a point of stating that using them should not be inferred as copying. Techniques and concepts are to be used and shared. He invited everyone to learn and harness whatever they found interesting, and to employ it in to their own pursuits.

      Another set of techniques discussed and demonstrated by the master and his assistant, Rafa Morales from Hacienda Benazuza, included three types of spherification. These included the use of calcium chloride (CaCl) and sodium alginate as well as the converse, and exploration of a new agent, gluconodeltalactone. The original combinations of alginate into CaCl for “caviar” production, and CaCl into alginate for larger “spheres” have chemistry-related limits as to what can be sphericized. In private correspondence, Harold McGee explained to me that Adria described encapsulating a mussel in its own juice. While this would make the dish technically an aspic, unlike conventional aspics it remains a liquid. Adria said that though gluconodeltalactone is very new, and they are just beginning to get a handle on it, he is very excited by it. He also demonstrated a machine for spherification on a larger scale than they had originally been able to do, as well as liquid nitrogen and freeze-drying (lyophilization) techniques. At the conclusion of his demonstration -- and thus the Conference -- the audience once again awarded him a standing ovation.

      While Adria’s appearance was the culmination of the conference, the energy it produced was not just because of his stature in the world of gastronomy -- it was also due to the excitement generated by the conference that preceded it. If there had previously been any doubt, Thomas Keller’s welcome of Adria was a clarion: Spanish cuisine has landed on North American shores and is finding a niche in the North American psyche. Spanish cuisine -- in its multifaceted, delicious entirety -- lives here, too.

      + + + + +

      John M. Sconzo, M.D., aka docsconz, is an anesthesiologist practicing in upstate New York. He grew up in Brooklyn in an Italian-American home, in which food was an important component of family life. It still is. His passions include good food, wine and travel. John's gastronomic interests in upstate northeastern New York involve finding top-notch local producers of ingredients and those who use them well. A dedicated amateur, John has no plans to ditch his current career for one in the food industry. Host, New York.
    • By docsconz
      About Jose Andres
       
      Throughout his career, Jose’s vision and imaginative creations have drawn the praise of the public, the press and his peers. José has received awards and recognition from Food Arts, Bon Appetit, Food & Wine, Saveur, the James Beard Foundation, Wine Spectator, and Wine Advocate. In addition, José has been featured in leading food magazines such as Gourmet as well as the New York Times, the Washington Post, Good Morning America, Fox Sunday Morning News with Chris Wallace, the Food Network, and USA Today.
       
      Widely acknowledged as the premiere Spanish chef cooking in America, José is a developer and Conference Chairman for the upcoming Worlds of Flavor Conference on Spain and the World Table at The Culinary Institute of America at Greystone, November 2 – 5, 2006.
       
      In 1993, Jose moved to Washington, DC, to head the kitchen at Jaleo. From there, Jose took on executive chef responsibilities at neighboring Café Atlantico and later Zaytinya. In July of 2003, Jose embarked on his most adventurous project to date with the opening of the minibar by jose andres at Cafe Atlantico. A six-seat restaurant within a restaurant, minibar by jose andres continues to attract international attention with its innovative tasting menu. In the fall of 2004, Jose opened a third Jaleo and Oyamel, an authentic Mexican small plates restaurant and launched the THINKfoodTANK, an institution devoted to the research and development of ideas about food, all with a view toward their practical applications in the kitchen.
       
      Every week, millions of Spaniards invite Jose into their home where he is the host and producer of “Vamos a cocinar”, a food program on Television Española (TVE), Spanish national television. The program airs in the United States and Latin America on TVE Internacional.
       
      Jose released his first cookbook this year, first published in English, Tapas: A Taste of Spain in America (published in the United States by Clarkson Potter) and shortly after in Spanish, Los fogones de José Andrés (published by Planeta). The book is an homage to Spanish cooking and to tapas, one of Spain's gifts to the world of good cooking.
       
      Jose Andres is passionate, intelligent, dedicated, witty and a fan of FC Barcelona.
       
      Jose has been a member of the eGullet Society since 2004.
       
      More on Jose Andres in the eG Forums:
      Cooking with "Tapas" by Jose Andres
      Vamos a Cocinar - cooking show with Jose Andres
      Jaleo
      José Andrés' Minibar
      Zaytinya
      Oyamel Cocina Mexicana, Crystal City
      Cafe Atlantico
       
      Jose Andres recipes from Tapas in RecipeGullet:
      Potatoes Rioja-Style with Chorizo (Patatas a la Riojana)
      Moorish-Style Chickpea and Spinach Stew
      Squid with Caramelized Onions
    • By gibbs
      With Modernist Cuisine I waited a couple of years and ended up with a copy from the 6th printing run the advantage of this was that all errors picked up in the erratta had been corrected in the print copy.  I am looking to get modernist bread soon and wondered if someone had purchased it recently to check or if someone knew of hand if they have printed any additional corrected runs 
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.

×