• Welcome to the eG Forums, a service of the eGullet Society for Culinary Arts & Letters. The Society is a 501(c)3 not-for-profit organization dedicated to the advancement of the culinary arts. These advertising-free forums are provided free of charge through donations from Society members. Anyone may read the forums, but to post you must create an account.

jmolinari

Curing and Cooking with Ruhlman & Polcyn's "Charcuterie" (Part 5)

538 posts in this topic

Well, I finished curing bacon #1, and unfortunately, because of timing issues, had to roast it in the oven rather than smoke it. However!!-- it is absolutely delicious. I am really, really excited for when I can make another and use the apple wood that I tracked down.

It's got just enough resistance to your bite, and melting, delicious pockets of fat. Wow. My only complaint is that I used brown sugar instead of maple syrup, and it was a bit more on the savory side than I'd like my breakfast bacon to be.

Oh well. I guess I'll have to correct it next time.

Oh- and is Niman the consensus pick for ordering pork? I saw another-- Caw Caw Creek, I think-- does anyone have a strong case for anywhere else?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Oh- and is Niman the consensus pick for ordering pork?  I saw another-- Caw Caw Creek, I think--  does anyone have a strong case for anywhere else?

I would like to know the answer to this as well. My local butchers are no help when it comes to finding pork belly.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yeah- the local butcher that I thought might know got a little misty-eyed when I asked. He responded "no one ever asks for that anymore..."

I ended up buying mine from an Asian market. Which is fine, I guess, but I'd like to see what I can do with top-of-the-line stuff.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Though butchers at Whole Foods, I've gotten both Niman and Coleman (they're changing their name, but I can't find out what the new one is from their website), and while I prefer Niman, Coleman is significantly better than the Swift et al I can get at my local carnicarias.


Chris Amirault

camirault@eGstaff.org

eG Ethics Signatory

Sir Luscious got gator belts and patty melts

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I find the disparateness in quality of staff from my Whole Foods to yours disturbing, Chris. I'm not even sure they would know what to do if I asked them where to find pork belly at mine.

Once, I asked if they had any pancetta, and the guy at the counter told me they were completely out. Another employee overheard him and came over to show him they did, in fact, have some. Ahh... New Orleans.


Edited by MikeHartnett (log)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I worked long and hard to establish a good relationship to the "Meat Team Leader" (I'd kill for a job title like that) at one of the stores here. Just start by asking them about availability, suppliers, and so on. They have been given greater leeway by corporate to do those sorts of orders, so it's a matter of people taking the time to support a good customer.


Chris Amirault

camirault@eGstaff.org

eG Ethics Signatory

Sir Luscious got gator belts and patty melts

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Oh- and is Niman the consensus pick for ordering pork?  I saw another-- Caw Caw Creek, I think--  does anyone have a strong case for anywhere else?

I would like to know the answer to this as well. My local butchers are no help when it comes to finding pork belly.

Flying Pigs farm is not cheap but it's really great stuff ... I buy from them at Union Square greenmarket in NYC but they sell online as well. Their pigs are large blacks, Gloucestershire old spots, and tamworths. Depending on what you're doing with the meat it can be worth the splurge. They supply David Chang's Momofuku restaurants here in NYC among others. www.flyingpigsfarm.com

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I found this smoker attachment that claims to "cold smoke" HERE

There is not much info about how it really works so I am hesitant..

Anyone Have any ideas on this or have possibly used it???

Thought it might be a nice cold smoke addition to the Kamado, with much less hassle...

Bud

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I have a hind leg from a wild boar (i love marin sun farms!) in my fridge. I'm about to pack it in salt and make a salted air-dried ham but I'm a little concerned about trichinosis. Also, there's no nitrite/nitrate in this cure?

Should I be worried due to the wild nature of the beast? :biggrin:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
I found this smoker attachment that claims to "cold smoke" HERE

There is not much info about how it really works so I am hesitant..

Anyone Have any ideas on this or have  possibly used it???

Thought it might be a nice cold smoke addition to the Kamado, with much less hassle...

Bud

Bud,

I have not tried the smoke pistol, but it looks a lot like a small smoke generator of the same technology of the Bradley smoker (which is what I use.) The packed wood pellet is about twice the size of a Bradley puck. The Bradley puck lasts about 20 minutes. The smoke pistol claims 3 hours from a pellet. Trying not to get into a math debate - I wonder if there is enough smoke for anything as large as a BGE?

On the cod smoke question - if there is enough heat to make smoke, your BGE is well insulated an might be too warm. It could work in a small cardboard box.

Paul

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
I have a hind leg from a wild boar (i love marin sun farms!) in my fridge. I'm about to pack it in salt and make a salted air-dried ham but I'm a little concerned about trichinosis. Also, there's no nitrite/nitrate in this cure?

Should I be worried due to the wild nature of the beast? :biggrin:

Uhm...yes. I would be. I would deep freeze it before using it for however long the FDA recommends freezing it.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
I have a hind leg from a wild boar (i love marin sun farms!) in my fridge. I'm about to pack it in salt and make a salted air-dried ham but I'm a little concerned about trichinosis. Also, there's no nitrite/nitrate in this cure?

Should I be worried due to the wild nature of the beast? :biggrin:

Uhm...yes. I would be. I would deep freeze it before using it for however long the FDA recommends freezing it.

Actually, the USDA says it's fine!

http://www.foodsafety.gov/~lrd/9cf318.html

Look for section 318.10 and then scroll down a bunch until you reach the part about hams. It's quite involved but essentially you can *either* freeze the meat, or just follow a relatively normal curing schedule (although to meet their regulations, you need 1.5days/lb rather than the 1 day/lb that ruhlman suggests).

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

As all readers of this massive topic know, it has become unwieldy. Thus we offer this index, to aid readers in finding all of the information our members have contributed over the years. We've also started this topic, for new discussions of the recipes in Ruhlman's book.

Thank you for participating! We look forward to more great contributions in the new topic!

 

 

[Moderator note: This topic continues here, Cooking with Ruhlman & Polcyn's "Charcuterie" (Part 6)]


Edited by Mjx Note added. (log)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.

  • Similar Content

    • By Bon Appetit Cookbooks
      This topic was hijacked from the Vancouver Board.
      What cookbooks do you love to cook out of at home?
      Is there a specific recipe that is your favorite?
      Or is there a book you just can't live without?
      If you have pictures, even better! Lets see how it turns out!
      Some of my favorites to cook out of:
      The Balthazar Cookbook - The Beef Tartar is amazing! As is the Chicken Liver Mousse
      The Babbo Cookbook - The Strawberries & Peaches with Balsamic Zabaglione
      Barefoot in Paris - The Blue Cheese Souffle looks JUST LIKE THE PICTURE!
      The Bouchon Cookbook - The Roast Chicken will seriously change your life
      Gordon Ramsey Makes it Easy - The Chocolate Pots are the easiest dessert in the world and tastes so good....especially with the Amedei #7
      There are lots more. Hopefully I can take pictures and show you.
      Hopefully this post can be an ongoing thing.
      I think we are all interested in what eachother cooks!
      Happy Cooking

      J
    • By Dave the Cook
      Those of us that have been following Rob Connoley's (aka gfron1) trek from home cook to down-and-literally-dirty locavore James Beard-semi-finalist chef are justifiably proud of his well-deserved transformation to a published author, which he has faithfully detailed in an earlier topic. If you're not familiar with his story, I urge you to catch up, then come back here, because we're ready to move on to the next step.
       
      Rob's book, Acorns & Cattails: A Modern Foraging Cookbook of Forest, Farm & Field, is finally, officially available. This alone is awesome news, and you should totally order your copy today. Or . . . 
       
      . . . we want to continue the conversation about Rob, his book and his future plans in this topic. And just to up the awesomeness, Rob is offering a free book to a randomly selected participant here.
       
      Simply post a question or comment in this topic between now and 11:59 p.m. CST (US), 13 September 2016 and you'll be eligible to "win," based on a random drawing to be conducted, with each participant getting one chance, not including Society volunteers (and Rob himself. Multiple posts will not improve your chances, so don't get overheated.)  The winner will be announced on 14 September.
       
      Rob will be along shortly to add his encouragement and whatever late-breaking news he has -- he's busy guy these days, so be patient -- but there's no need to wait to post questions or comments.
       
       
      P.S. And if you don't win, you should still get this book.
    • By liuzhou
      A few weeks ago I bought a copy of this cookbook which is a best-selling spin off from the highly successful television series by China Central Television - A Bite of China as discussed on this thread.   .
       

       
      The book was published in August 2013 and is by Chen Zhitian (陈志田 - chén zhì tián). It is only available in Chinese (so far). 
       
      There are a number of books related to the television series but this is the only one which seems to be legitimate. It certainly has the high production standards of the television show. Beautifully photographed and with (relatively) clear details in the recipes.
       
      Here is a sample page.
       

       
      Unlike in most western cookbooks, recipes are not listed by main ingredient. They are set out in six vaguely defined chapters. So, if you are looking for a duck dish, for example, you'll have to go through the whole contents list. I've never seen an index in any Chinese book on any subject. 
       
      In order to demonstrate the breadth of recipes in the book and perhaps to be of interest to forum members who want to know what is in a popular Chinese recipe book, I have sort of translated the contents list - 187 recipes.
       
      This is always problematic. Very often Chinese dishes are very cryptically named. This list contains some literal translations. For some dishes I have totally ignored the given name and given a brief description instead. Any Chinese in the list refers to place names. Some dishes I have left with literal translations of their cryptic names, just for amusement value.
       
      I am not happy with some of the "translations" and will work on improving them. I am also certain there are errors in there, too.
       
      Back in 2008, the Chinese government issued a list of official dish translations for the Beijing Olympics. It is full of weird translations and total errors, too. Interestingly, few of the dishes in the book are on that list.
       
      Anyway, for what it is worth, the book's content list is here (Word document) or here (PDF file). If anyone is interested in more information on a dish, please ask. For copyright reasons, I can't reproduce the dishes here exactly, but can certainly describe them.
       
      Another problem is that many Chinese recipes are vague in the extreme. I'm not one to slavishly follow instructions, but saying "enough meat" in a recipe is not very helpful. This book gives details (by weight) for the main ingredients, but goes vague on most  condiments.
       
      For example, the first dish (Dezhou Braised Chicken), calls for precisely 1500g of chicken, 50g dried mushroom, 20g sliced ginger and 10g of scallion. It then lists cassia bark, caoguo, unspecified herbs, Chinese cardamom, fennel seed, star anise, salt, sodium bicarbonate and cooking wine without suggesting any quantities. It then goes back to ask for 35g of maltose syrup, a soupçon of cloves, and "the correct quantity" of soy sauce.
       
      Cooking instructions can be equally vague. "Cook until cooked".
       
      A Bite of China - 舌尖上的中国- ISBN 978-7-5113-3940-9 
    • By yoboseyo
      Novice at meat-curer looking for advice. I'm making 2 pancettas this season.
       
      The first one I used the over-salting technique. What I didn't expect was that the salt would all turn into brine in a day, and I expected that I could scrape away the excess salt at the end. Instead, I left it on the brine for too long, and the result was too salty. The meat firmed up in 2 days so I should've taken it out then.
       
      For my second one, which is currently in the fridge, I used the equilibrium salting technique. I added about 100g salt for 3.5kg meat. The problem now is that it's not firming up seemingly at all! It has been 9 days in the fridge, and flipping it every day or 2. After 6 days, however, there was no pool of brine left. I put the meat in a folded over but unsealed bag. Did the brine evaporate or resoak into the meat?
       
      Any advice on how to continue would be appreciated.
    • By davidcross
      I made some Lonza and cured it for 2 weeks.
       
      In the drying chamber (70% humidity and 55F with gentle air flow) it's only been 4 days but it's already lost 30% of its pre-drying chamber weight. Normally that can take weeks.
       
      Is that normal, and is the meat ready?
       
      Thank you
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.