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Cooking with "All About Braising" by Molly Stevens (Part 1)


Marlene

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On Saturday, I took a class with Molly Stevens. She's a wonderful, generous instructor. There's been some discussion here about the use of parchment paper in some of the recipes so I asked her about it. One of the reasons it should hang over the sides is to help make a better seal. I find that it works quite well and it's easier to lift it to make sure that it's not boiling. Yesterday, I made the Zinfandel Pot Roast. I followed her instructions with no changes and it was perfect. As far as the oven temperature goes, I've never had to reduce the temp with any of the recipes. Has anyone considered that their oven might be off? My engineer husband (anyone who's married to one knows what that means) checked the temperature of our oven (he also used to make ovens for GE) and mine was right on. Just a suggestion.

jb

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On the Estouffade. I really liked it, but I didn't have a pig's foot, so I had to make do without it!

On oven temp. I've had my checked and re checked and in fact had Dacor in to make sure it was calibrated. I have never yet done a braise at the temps Molly suggests.

Marlene

Practice. Do it over. Get it right.

Mostly, I want people to be as happy eating my food as I am cooking it.

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Ditto here on the oven temps. I am an engineering/lab geek and I went so far as to use a certified lab thermometer.

I have never been able to braise at the higher temperatures, either.

Linda LaRose aka "fifi"

"Having spent most of my life searching for truth in the excitement of science, I am now in search of the perfectly seared foie gras without any sweet glop." Linda LaRose

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I did the short ribs with port, wine and honey again tonight. boy those are good. They are certainly rich though. I think I need to try the beef rendang soon.

Marlene

Practice. Do it over. Get it right.

Mostly, I want people to be as happy eating my food as I am cooking it.

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I also made the Zinfandel Pot Roast over the weekend - it turned out really nice. I usually add more liquid when I braise, but I followed the recipe and was very happy with the sauce after I boiled it down a bit. I also made the glazed carrots and parsnips in the recipe. Nice flavor and the carrots were al dente the way we like them, but maybe I didn't cook the parsnips enough - they were kinda woody or stringy.

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Della . . . I don't see anything wrong with your substitutions. Just keep in mind that each one is upping the sweet note. Your suggestion of the cider vinegar is probably right on. You can taste as you go to check it out.

Thanks! I think I will give it a go and I will report back to say how it turns out.

Happy T-Day to all.

Della

We made the Brisket with Rhubarb and Honey (with substitutions) the day after Thanksgiving. We rubbed the brisket with the spice rub on Wednesday afternoon and started cooking on Friday about 3:00 PM.

We subbed out the Rhubarb for Granny Smith Apples and the wine for apple cider and one capful of cider vinegar. ( I couldn't find a measuring spoon and wanted to know how much I put in for adjustments another time). I had to braise on the stove top instead of the oven. I was making this at someone else's home rather than my own and due to pots/pans and available space I ended up on the stove top. I used the parchment paper and I think it made a difference as the pot I was using was a bit too tall for the meat. (think tall soup/stock pot). I made a point to turn the meat every 30 minutes for even cooking (as suggested in the book).

The brisket turned out wonderful. Tender, flavorful and everyone raved. The sauce reduced nicely and it went well with the meat - (we just poured it over the meat and served). We also served the apples and onions that had cooked in the pot after we strained them out of the braising liquid. Served the meal with roasted red potatoes with rosemary along with roasted carrots and turnips.

We would definately make this again.

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  • 2 weeks later...

I made the Zinfandel Pot Roast with Glazed Carrots and Fresh Sage the other night. DELICIOUS It is easily the best pot roast I have ever made. I used a chuck roast and it was a good hint to tie it up first. I never have before and never had a problem (other than dry meat) but this time it held the meltingly tender meat together and I was glad I did it. I have to say I loved this recipe. I followed it pretty much exactly as written and I just had to turn my oven down about 25 degrees from what the book said. But that is probably just my oven.

I am going to make the Braised Potatoes with Garlic and Bay Leaves for a holiday dinner in a few weeks. (to go with Prime Rib). I didn't notice that anyone had made that yet? If someone has and I missed it - please let me know any thoughts, hints or changes. I will make it this weekend to test the recipe before I bring it to my friends for dinner.

More later.

Della

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Today in the aftermath of a snowstorm, I made the braised endive & prosciutto. This recipe is easy to cut back to serve one or two persons.

I used two small endive and had a delicious dinner with the eggs fried in oil which I "sauced" with a sherry vinegar deglaze of the pan. (I thought the balsamic wouldn't give enough acidic counterpoint ot this rather rich dinner.) I doctored the braise just a smidge by adding some natural apple cider that has begun to fizz.

Meanwhile, I have some salted English style short ribs resting in the fridge to braise for the weekend. I'm doing them in porter.

"Half of cooking is thinking about cooking." ---Michael Roberts

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Sunday I made the Zinfandel pot roast - yummy! Tonight was the Soy Braised Chicken Thighs - so easy and quick. It was a bit salty tho, so I added a splash of vinegar (as recommended) and problem solved! Have some leftovers so I anticipate it being even better tomorrow.

Burgundy makes you think silly things, Bordeaux makes you talk about them, and Champagne makes you do them ---

Brillat-Savarin

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I was glancing through the book this evening, thinking that it's rapidly getting colder outside and I want more braises! I came across the grillades and grits (although sorry, there will be no grits in this house) and I think that's on my list of braises to try soon. To be followed very quickly by the Farsumagu on page 238.

Marlene

Practice. Do it over. Get it right.

Mostly, I want people to be as happy eating my food as I am cooking it.

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Made the pork with tomates and chipotle peppers. As usual, I forgot to take a picture, but will aim to do so tomorrow or Thursday with leftovers for lunch.

This was another outstanding dish. It has more of a kick than Peter normally eats, but he is getting better about eating spicy food. Most surprising was his friend Michael, who stayed for dinner. M. doesn't like spice at all, and he had two servings and wants me to give the recipe to his mom!

Susan Fahning aka "snowangel"
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Today I finished the short ribs in Porter with maple syrup and horseradish glaze. It was acceptable, but not outstanding. I've improvised shortribs with greater success.

In this recipe, the ribs lacked subtlety and complexity of taste and were sort of unidimensional. The maple-horseradish glaze, formed a contrast between the neutral taste of the meat and the slightly sharp sweetness of the glaze, but it was not enough. I probably will not make this one again. Luckily I made just a half batch to tide myself to tide myself over this stormy weekend and will not be feeding them to guests.

"Half of cooking is thinking about cooking." ---Michael Roberts

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The Porter short rib recipe was ok, but now I make short ribs no other way but this.. This one is truly amazing.

Marlene

Practice. Do it over. Get it right.

Mostly, I want people to be as happy eating my food as I am cooking it.

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The Porter short rib recipe was ok, but now I make short ribs no other way but this..  This one is truly amazing.

That looks interesting and I'll give it a try next time. I should have known that so few flavoring elements in the porter braise would not infuse the meat with lots of flavor.

"Half of cooking is thinking about cooking." ---Michael Roberts

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  • 2 weeks later...

I did the braised potatoes with garlic and bay the other night. Simple yet good. Everyone liked it. I think the fresh bay leaf made a difference in the flavor. I will try some other variations of this too. It was nice that it was all done stove top as we had a prime rib in the oven and there wasn't room to "roast" potatoes and we didn't want mashed.

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Tonight was Molly's Provencal lamb shanks (with paprika, lots of lemon and oily black olives). Very easy -- I did it pretty much as written but, as per this board's consensus -- lowered the oven temp to around 300 from 350 (my oven may be a bit slow) and cooked the shanks for a total of about 3 1/2 hrs, instead of the suggested 2 1/2. Also, I chilled and reheated before serving -- otherwise I don't think I could have eliminated enough fat -- vats o' lanolin -- from the otherwise very tasty sauce. My lamb-loving six-y.o. claimed it was of the best things I've ever made. Leftovers in big-pasta sauce tomorrow night. It was a perfect project for a rainy post-Christmas Monday.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Made a version of her Yankee Pot Roast Redux last night using a 2 pound hunk of boneless chuck roast and it turned out quite well.

Instead of studding an onion with cloves to cook with the beef, I added a cup or so of mirepoix; but, other than that followed the recipe fairly closely. I also went with the stove top browning option, not the broiler method she suggests. Since my piece of chuck was a little smaller than the recipe's, it was finished closer to 2 and 1/2 hours, not three.

The only thing I would do differently would be to add the vegetables 45 minutes from the end instead of an hour and a half. They were a little well cooked for my taste.

Served it with the braised vegetables and a salad of arugula and wonderfully ripe fuyu persimmons in a pomegranate vinaigrette. A bottle of 2000 Greenwood Ridge Cabernet Sauvingon complemented the meal wonderfully.

added salad and wine comment.

Edited by eje (log)

---

Erik Ellestad

If the ocean was whiskey and I was a duck...

Bernal Heights, SF, CA

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I did the braised potatoes with garlic and bay the other night. Simple yet good. Everyone liked it. I think the fresh bay leaf made a difference in the flavor. I will try some other variations of this too. It was nice that it was all done stove top as we had a prime rib in the oven and there wasn't room to "roast" potatoes and we didn't want mashed.

Thanks for bringing this recipe to my attention. I had overlooked it and, at any rate, would not have thought of it as solving the "potato problem." I have run into just the situation that you describe more than once. I have usually resorted to boiled potatoes with parsley and butter. This sounds so much more adventurous. We are about to make a run to "The Bay Tree" in the cemetary and this looks like a good place for some nice fresh bay leaves. :biggrin:(Excerpt from my blog here.)

The chicken is poached very simply with onion, garlic, and bay leaves. I do have to relate that the bay leaves come from a very large tree in a historic cemetary in Houston. My sister spotted it some years ago while stopped in traffic behind a wreck. (That is what I mean about keeping your eyes open.) It took us a while to wind our way through the roads in the cemetary to actually find the tree. Once we did, we have gone back from time to time for a supply. We once got caught, loppers in hand, and made up a story about "Great Aunt Mabel" that was buried beneath it and that it was actually our property that dear Auntie intended us to take advantage of. The cemetary security guard actually bought the story so we have access to the bay tree whenever we want. OK . . . I digress. But if you are going to forage in questionable places, you need to get your act together or get arrested.

Linda LaRose aka "fifi"

"Having spent most of my life searching for truth in the excitement of science, I am now in search of the perfectly seared foie gras without any sweet glop." Linda LaRose

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I am cooking dinner for my sisters birthday Saturday night. I was wondering if anyone has made the chicken and pork adobado. It looks great but, I'd love some reviews.

Also what would you serve with it? Thanks.

-Becca

www.porterhouse.typepad.com

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I am cooking dinner for my sisters birthday Saturday night. I was wondering if anyone has made the chicken and pork adobado. It looks great but, I'd love some reviews.

Also what would you serve with it? Thanks.

I have not made it, but a close friend had us over for dinner and served it. It is indeed wonderful.

She served it with rice, the tomato relish (recipe in the book) and sauteed broccoli.

Definitely yummy and something I will make soon.

Susan Fahning aka "snowangel"
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  • 2 weeks later...

I made the Chicken Do-Piaza last night. Yum! I wished I'd added more cayenne, but the lower level kept Peter happy, so I just put the bottle of cayenne on the table for people to add as they wanted. The combo of the chicken, the silky sauce (I took the immersion blender to the onions that are pureed; worked like a charm) and the still slightly crunchy onion slices was divine.

I did not take any photos. Braises, in my experience don't usually photo very well, and the color of this one (given the turmeric) gave it a well, let's not go there, look.

Susan Fahning aka "snowangel"
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  • 2 weeks later...

Tonight I am making the whole braised chicken with bread stuffing and bacon. The recipe looks really fantastic. The bread stuffing is similar to the one in the famed Zuni chicken recipe.

I've looked throught the thread and I haven't seen any comments about it. Anyone made it?

I'll post my comments when it is done. Yum.

I'm sorry no picture. I really gotta get on that.

Edited by Becca Porter (log)

-Becca

www.porterhouse.typepad.com

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I just ordered this cookbook and it arrived in the mail last night. What a pleasure! Am really looking forward to trying it out. The chicken with cider and parsnips looks particularly tasty.

Welcome to the club! :biggrin: If you haven't already, you might want to take some time to read this topic. While the recipes are terrific, we have pretty much found that the temperatures are too high in a lot of cases.

Linda LaRose aka "fifi"

"Having spent most of my life searching for truth in the excitement of science, I am now in search of the perfectly seared foie gras without any sweet glop." Linda LaRose

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