greenwich st

WF used to sell these, freshly made, in the olive section, but no longer. It's the sort of thing I'll never make but love to cook with. I know they have them at Kalyustan's but they look a bit dicey to me. Any takes on where and which are good. (Sorry if this has been done to death, but couldn't find it in a search.)

Just to obsess a bit more about the Capital: I am wondering about the wok cooktop configuration. I never stir fry in a wok and though owning such a stove may inspire me, I'm mainly interesting in being able to sear meat and to quickly boil and deglaze. The Bluestar offers two 22K burners as opposed to the Capital's four 19K burners. The Capital counters with the 25K central wok burner. Presumably one can use that wok burner for other functions, but doesn't the protruding skillet handle render one or two other burners unusable? And is there enough room on that cooktop for a big central pan, plus two other large pans, say, on the periphery? I'd love to be able to bring my pans and check it out in person somewhere.

This is what I love about EG -- I had just begun to think hey, what about Capital, and I find my thought process playing out right here several steps ahead. So, Joe Blowe, what do you think of Capital's wide burners from the opposite point of view: the simmer function? I've seen some suggestion that the small diameter of the simmer flame could lead to hot spots. And thanks, joancassell for your cautionary tale: sounds like what we experienced with Thermador (and I'm impressed that you still love the range.) I have to admit I coveted the Monogram mostly for its beauty. And there is always the potential resale factor: what if we sell and a buyer doesn't "get" the stove. Part of the appeal of the Capital is that it may combine features of both: good looks and the ultra-high and -low output of the Bluestar and lits large oven capacity. I also like the Capital 's advertised simmer function on four burners, and smooth-sliding oven racks . Unfortunately, it's very hard to check one out in person. Hmm...

Thanks, Derek. I will be thinking "anger" next time I toast a gratin! In the mean time I figured out that the Monogram dual fuel needs 220 volts for the oven which our apartment kitchen doesn't allow. I haven't seen a negative report on Bluestar anywhere on the web, and you confirm it's a winner. We're going to go for it. We're staying in a sublet with a leaky, unusable '80s-era restaurant Wolf -- fills the place with nauseating fumes within a minute. It's been salads and take out every day, so I can't wait for my new stove. (I'll have to find a non-cook to take my beautiful-but-brainless Thermador.)

The in-oven infrared broiler. We'd be going for the 30", not sure they have a grill top option. I do like to use the broiler a fair amount which is frustrating on the Thermador -- the rack is too far from the not-so-strong heat, and for some reason ours takes some patience before it actually kicks in. It procrastinates. We have really hesitated about replacing it because it cost so much, but it's a total lemon. How's your high-heat cooking? The Rosengarten article made me anxious to start searing meat.

What started out as a kitchen window replacement has rapidly evolved into high-pressure kitchen redo, when we realized that (duh) counters and cabinets were going to get ripped out of place and half-destroyed in the process. We've just replaced our double bowl SS Kohler with a large single Franke -- I'm psyched. The range (a '98 Thermador) is out of harm's way, but we've always detested it (burners don't stay ignited, hate the on-and-off clicking of the "ultra low" burner, oven's bipolar and it's impossible to get serviced, so we're manically edging toward another major impulse buy. Any votes for Bluestar or Monogram? The latter tempts me by it's narrower depth (two inches shallower) and generally glamorous looks, but we mostly want a good performer, so should I go Bluestar? Any comments on the broiler, and simmerability? Anyone have theirs serviced yet? Thanks!

I'm not Belgian (my husband's French, which definitely doesn't count!) but we've all had the opportunity to eat "Belgian" in the past decade in New York, which gives at least some basis for comparison. I would say that Resto is the worst in this genre I've ever experienced -- more sophisticated menu, less competent cooking than Markt, the formerly satisfying (now dreadful) Brussels, etc. Our mussels were dry almost down the bottom, fries no more than ordinary, lamb ribs charred but not particularly crispy or smoky -- just charred. Nice service. Yes, the place was very busy (horrendously loud, with Kwak-swilling guys bellowing nonstop) but still....We walked out wondering what Bruni is on. Ergot? Blue Lily? Something mind altering.

I am going for a few days in May with my family, including my seven-year-old daughter and eighty year-old father-in-law. I know Culebra is not known for its lux accomodations, and we're mainly into the island's rep for great beaches, tranquility, natural beauty -- no resort frills necessary. However we do tend to be pretty spoiled when it comes to cleanliness and comfort and we hate yucky overpriced tourist food -- any ideas how to get the best of both worlds in Culebra?

I love the right kind of restaurant tiramisu (which I've never made) -- I thing it should offer some fairly perceptible contrast between the coffee and the dairy, both in terms of liquidy/unctous and bitter/sweet aspects, and that the cakey/ladyfinger part should sort of mediate. I hate tiramisu when it's too sweet, too whipped-creamy, or too cakey. But what I'm noticing here is freaking me out -- are raw egg-yolks necessary? Common? And is that okay?

Wow, pureed clams, that's fascinating. It sounds so vile, somehow, but now I'm really curious, at what point did they add it to the chowder?

Damn them!

Ann, beautiful pic, and I just wanted to add that I mean adding cheese to sauce before serving is off. To each his own, at the table.

I'm no purist, obviously, but I do think that cheese violates the nature of the sauce by attenuating that iodine perfume we're all going for. And, though I suspect the typical American joints add tons of butter (which is not bad, IMO) I haven't often tasted cheese in NYC clam sauce.

Varmint, do you think it might help if you gave the pasta a turn in the sauce (in the pan) before serving? So the sauce would cling more? I like it that way.

A recipe I've been loving is a little more complicated: Spaghettic w/ Cockles, Pancetta and Parsely in Erica deMane's Flavors of Southern Italy. Now, I agree that cockles are not as juicy as littlenecks, so I sub about 40 little necks per lb. She suggests steaming the clams first in white wine and reserving them while preparing the sauce base. I find this works well and gives great juice, though its a bit more complicated than she suggests because I then shell the clams (which she doesn't with cockles) and strain the juice. She then sautes a bit of chopped pancetta in 1/3 c evoo, adds sliced garlic, then simmers with some of clam liquour with zest and juice of a large lemon. A minute later, heat clams with remaining clam juice, S & P to taste. I also add a pinch of red pepper (not in recipe.) Serve with drizze of evoo and lots of chopped (and yes, well-rinsed!) parsley. Although I have always adored the classic version of this dish, I like this even better and my family does the finger on the plate thing to get every last bit of sauce.