greenwich st

WF used to sell these, freshly made, in the olive section, but no longer. It's the sort of thing I'll never make but love to cook with. I know they have them at Kalyustan's but they look a bit dicey to me. Any takes on where and which are good. (Sorry if this has been done to death, but couldn't find it in a search.)

Just to obsess a bit more about the Capital: I am wondering about the wok cooktop configuration. I never stir fry in a wok and though owning such a stove may inspire me, I'm mainly interesting in being able to sear meat and to quickly boil and deglaze. The Bluestar offers two 22K burners as opposed to the Capital's four 19K burners. The Capital counters with the 25K central wok burner. Presumably one can use that wok burner for other functions, but doesn't the protruding skillet handle render one or two other burners unusable? And is there enough room on that cooktop for a big central pan, plus two other large pans, say, on the periphery? I'd love to be able to bring my pans and check it out in person somewhere.

This is what I love about EG -- I had just begun to think hey, what about Capital, and I find my thought process playing out right here several steps ahead. So, Joe Blowe, what do you think of Capital's wide burners from the opposite point of view: the simmer function? I've seen some suggestion that the small diameter of the simmer flame could lead to hot spots. And thanks, joancassell for your cautionary tale: sounds like what we experienced with Thermador (and I'm impressed that you still love the range.) I have to admit I coveted the Monogram mostly for its beauty. And there is always the potential resale factor: what if we sell and a buyer doesn't "get" the stove. Part of the appeal of the Capital is that it may combine features of both: good looks and the ultra-high and -low output of the Bluestar and lits large oven capacity. I also like the Capital 's advertised simmer function on four burners, and smooth-sliding oven racks . Unfortunately, it's very hard to check one out in person. Hmm...

Thanks, Derek. I will be thinking "anger" next time I toast a gratin! In the mean time I figured out that the Monogram dual fuel needs 220 volts for the oven which our apartment kitchen doesn't allow. I haven't seen a negative report on Bluestar anywhere on the web, and you confirm it's a winner. We're going to go for it. We're staying in a sublet with a leaky, unusable '80s-era restaurant Wolf -- fills the place with nauseating fumes within a minute. It's been salads and take out every day, so I can't wait for my new stove. (I'll have to find a non-cook to take my beautiful-but-brainless Thermador.)

The in-oven infrared broiler. We'd be going for the 30", not sure they have a grill top option. I do like to use the broiler a fair amount which is frustrating on the Thermador -- the rack is too far from the not-so-strong heat, and for some reason ours takes some patience before it actually kicks in. It procrastinates. We have really hesitated about replacing it because it cost so much, but it's a total lemon. How's your high-heat cooking? The Rosengarten article made me anxious to start searing meat.

What started out as a kitchen window replacement has rapidly evolved into high-pressure kitchen redo, when we realized that (duh) counters and cabinets were going to get ripped out of place and half-destroyed in the process. We've just replaced our double bowl SS Kohler with a large single Franke -- I'm psyched. The range (a '98 Thermador) is out of harm's way, but we've always detested it (burners don't stay ignited, hate the on-and-off clicking of the "ultra low" burner, oven's bipolar and it's impossible to get serviced, so we're manically edging toward another major impulse buy. Any votes for Bluestar or Monogram? The latter tempts me by it's narrower depth (two inches shallower) and generally glamorous looks, but we mostly want a good performer, so should I go Bluestar? Any comments on the broiler, and simmerability? Anyone have theirs serviced yet? Thanks!

I'm not Belgian (my husband's French, which definitely doesn't count!) but we've all had the opportunity to eat "Belgian" in the past decade in New York, which gives at least some basis for comparison. I would say that Resto is the worst in this genre I've ever experienced -- more sophisticated menu, less competent cooking than Markt, the formerly satisfying (now dreadful) Brussels, etc. Our mussels were dry almost down the bottom, fries no more than ordinary, lamb ribs charred but not particularly crispy or smoky -- just charred. Nice service. Yes, the place was very busy (horrendously loud, with Kwak-swilling guys bellowing nonstop) but still....We walked out wondering what Bruni is on. Ergot? Blue Lily? Something mind altering.

I am going for a few days in May with my family, including my seven-year-old daughter and eighty year-old father-in-law. I know Culebra is not known for its lux accomodations, and we're mainly into the island's rep for great beaches, tranquility, natural beauty -- no resort frills necessary. However we do tend to be pretty spoiled when it comes to cleanliness and comfort and we hate yucky overpriced tourist food -- any ideas how to get the best of both worlds in Culebra?

I love the right kind of restaurant tiramisu (which I've never made) -- I thing it should offer some fairly perceptible contrast between the coffee and the dairy, both in terms of liquidy/unctous and bitter/sweet aspects, and that the cakey/ladyfinger part should sort of mediate. I hate tiramisu when it's too sweet, too whipped-creamy, or too cakey. But what I'm noticing here is freaking me out -- are raw egg-yolks necessary? Common? And is that okay?

Wow, pureed clams, that's fascinating. It sounds so vile, somehow, but now I'm really curious, at what point did they add it to the chowder?

Damn them!

Ann, beautiful pic, and I just wanted to add that I mean adding cheese to sauce before serving is off. To each his own, at the table.

I'm no purist, obviously, but I do think that cheese violates the nature of the sauce by attenuating that iodine perfume we're all going for. And, though I suspect the typical American joints add tons of butter (which is not bad, IMO) I haven't often tasted cheese in NYC clam sauce.

Varmint, do you think it might help if you gave the pasta a turn in the sauce (in the pan) before serving? So the sauce would cling more? I like it that way.

A recipe I've been loving is a little more complicated: Spaghettic w/ Cockles, Pancetta and Parsely in Erica deMane's Flavors of Southern Italy. Now, I agree that cockles are not as juicy as littlenecks, so I sub about 40 little necks per lb. She suggests steaming the clams first in white wine and reserving them while preparing the sauce base. I find this works well and gives great juice, though its a bit more complicated than she suggests because I then shell the clams (which she doesn't with cockles) and strain the juice. She then sautes a bit of chopped pancetta in 1/3 c evoo, adds sliced garlic, then simmers with some of clam liquour with zest and juice of a large lemon. A minute later, heat clams with remaining clam juice, S & P to taste. I also add a pinch of red pepper (not in recipe.) Serve with drizze of evoo and lots of chopped (and yes, well-rinsed!) parsley. Although I have always adored the classic version of this dish, I like this even better and my family does the finger on the plate thing to get every last bit of sauce.

Just my two cents -- I have eaten here 4 times as of yesterday (I live two blocks away) and have come to the conclusion that I hate this place. It is certainly not for neighborhood dwellers -- it is really very specifically intended as a "destination" despite it's earthy decor which is mostly inherited. The food is good, IMO, though not stellar or consistently so -- for instance, at brunch, our duck egg salad with endive, (good) pancetta and mustardy vinagrette was overly simple and served ice-cold. I like the gnudi too and the ginger cake but not much here seems better than decent home cooking. On the other hand, the attitude is beyond off-putting. Quite simply, they hate children here -- automatically herd you upstairs if you have the nerve to bring one, even if the downstairs is utterly empty. And then they seat you at the worst table upstairs! This has happened to us twice (my daughter is lovely, seven and far more well-mannered than most 30-something adults I hear yapping in cell-phones from 3 booths away. She is a welcomed regular at a variety of sophisticated NYC restaurants -- sounds absurd, I know, but my point is that no place should make you that defensive.) And we saw it happen to the only other couple who dared to bring a child there -- on a weekend, at noon. Our last waitress was quite pleasant and attentive, but the "hostess" makes a big hostile point of not interacting which made me regret walking in there. She made us ask for a table, even though the place had already opened and was empty. I want to like this place because it's so convenient for us and I tend to love the kind of cooking they aspire to, but a few winning dishes among as many near-misses do not compensate for the general vibe of narcissistic incompetence or their policy of ghettoizing patrons who don't fit some kind of predetermined demographic.

Thanks, Pam -- I guess I can make it by spinning my regular meal. I think it's a good idea -- I saw warnings on the web about letting potato starch come to a boil, and you never know with a long braise....

Emergency question -- sorry if I missed the answer elsewhere in this thread. Can I dredge lamb shanks in potato starch instead of flour for my Tuesday seder braise? (I'm making Molly Steven's shanks with tomato, lemon and olives.) I have matzoh meal as well, but that really doesn't seem like it would work. Or should I just skip the dredging? Thanks -- I know everyone is fiendishly cooking right now!

Thanks eatmywords and pups -- yes, they both seem like great choices -- two that I'd love to try -- though I think my French companions may not be excited enough with these choices for this occasion. Somehow Asian-inflected food seems fancy enough, but Greek? Italian? A hard sell to my still slightly chauvinistic guy.

Nathan, we're neighbors! Re Pastis, I used to be a weekday breakfast-lunch regular and now, as I mentioned, can't go there at all. The food, the awful crowd, the service -- it's ghastly now. But we just came back from a successful Friday meal at Morandi -- probably because we arrived at 5:30, well before the place filled up (at about 7). We ordered for the table and really enjoyed all our antipasti -- the fried olives, fried artichokes, ricotta bruschetta, and grilled sardines with mint and tomatoes. (The bread, however, was nothing special -- seems not to be Balthazar bread.) Then we had the pasta with cabbage and speck -- creamy, smoky, homey, and quite irresistible. Even my cabbage-hating husband ate his. And pork shoulder (a special) stuffed with, as I recall, hard boiled egg, soprassata and chard, with a thin tomato sauce. This was visually appealing and tasty but slightly overcooked and dry. Sides were spinach (plain, as one would hope, and nice) and "roasted potatoes" which were our biggest disappointment -- they were dry, waxy and not at all crunchy -- seemed slow-baked, not roasted and sorely lacking in salt and oil. Dessert was a refreshing lemon/mint granita served in a lemon, a nice but run of the mill almond/lemon/ricotta torte (perhaps a bit dry) and a crepe with vanilla gelato and berry sauce. The crepe dessert was unsatisfactory I thought, though my family enjoyed it -- thick, tough crepe and the whole was like the kind of thing I might throw together on a weeknight, which surprised me because the crepes suzettes was my favorite dish at Pastis. We were not seated at a good table -- that often happens as my daughter is seven and I suppose the staff tends to assume we are going be messy and not order for her. Next time I will ask to be better placed when reserving. But we were otherwise very pleased with the service, which was consistently friendly and professional. Our waiter, in particular, was competent, informative and friendly. And the crowd, at that hour, was civilized, with nobody braying on cell phones or broadcasting their tiresome lifestyle arrangements, as Jesikka experienced after 8:30. We always do first service because of our child, but I'm beginning to feel that early-bird actually is the way to go these days. Total before tip with a modest half-bottle of wine: $150.00. We thought it was a good neighborhood-restaurant experience and we plan on returning. I bet early Tuesday nights will be okay for a while

Oh, god, what mixed reviews! I'm on my way there with family at 5:30 -- I'll report back. Being a MPD resident, I know we're chancing it. We were very happy with biweekly lunch at Pastis for the first two years...now won't set foot in the place.

Aha -- thanks Noodlebot! And we've never eaten there. So, hmm...

Thanks guys -- I'm now weighing Cru, Perry Street and Cafe Gray as options. We have been to JG, back in the day, and enjoyed it a lot. But something brand new seems more exciting. I'm embarrassed to admit that I can't figure out what EMP is...

nikkib, Cafe Gray is tempting -- I've just been put off by all the dissing of the decor. Does it bother you? My husband (being French) is very snotty about New York-style glitz. River Cafe I alway hear nice things about but somehow I imagine it being a bit too classic for us. Is the cooking creative? Nathan, we live right near Perry Street, so I've been thinking about it (and we were definitely considering JG as an option. How do PS stand up to comparison foodwise as that would be much more relaxed and convenient?) Wallse is very friendly and prettybut has never thrilled us -- I think the food is a bit too simple (and perhaps bland) for our palates. As for Robuchon, we were just warned off by a rather surly French friend, but are curious. Have you eaten there lately?

We usually do Gramercy Tavern for fancy dinner -- but I've been a bit let down by the food there of late. We could dress up, it's not out of the question, but the emphasis definitely should be more on sophisticated food and pretty decor and less about scene or pomposity. We'll be taking daughter (an adventurous eater) and grandpa (visiting from Paris -- good sport). Price not a problem...any ideas?