Cooking with "All About Braising" by Molly Stevens (Part 1)

[snowangel]

After the exhausting blog, I swore I wasn't going to cook tonight, and more, that I wouldn't take a picture of what I cooked.

But, that package of chicken thighs in the freezer just about leapt out and grabbed me, so out they came, and out came All About Braising.

I had a winner in the Soy Braised Chix with Orange and Star Anise. I had everything on hand, and it is a quick braise.

This is a real winner! The kids pronounced it their second favorite chicken dish (after fried chicken ).

I did not have the energy to get out the rice maker and make rice, but I would make that effort next time, as the juices just scream for something other than a tongue to sop them up.

Some notes on this recipe:

I did bone in, skin on. What I did with all but one of the thighs was to brown seriously with skin on, turn over, remove skin, and flip back over to brown the top of the thigh. Cooked thigh meat browns much easier than raw chicken. The one thigh that I did not remove the skin on -- the skin separated during the cooking and turned flabby (ick). In my picture, I had removed the meat from the bones.

Cut up the orange peel intro 1/4" strips because they are really yummy eaten with the chicken.

I did not have a problem with too little sauce, rather I think I had a bit much.

Don't add the green onion tops until you put the dish on a platter or in a bowl so they stay nice and green and crisp.

The temp is right on for this one. I started it at my typical 225-250, and upped it after 15 minutes to the suggested 325.

[Lori in PA]

Thanks, Susan. The chicken sounds good. The rendange took about an hour longer than the recipe states, but if I'd simmered a little "harder" it might have been faster. It actually worked out time-wise for us because our plans changed. Nobody thought is was too spicy. The bite I tasted an hour before we ate was VERY spicy. Weird -- I'd think the finished product would be worse -- more concentrated, but it wasn't. I loved the cabbage, but it did not convert my family of cabbage-haters, to my disappointment. So far, the only way they'll eat it with a minimum of pathetic expressions is sliced fine and quickly sauteed.

[snowangel]

Lori, I know that it can be hard to justify purchasing cookbooks. But, this one is worthy. Forget the Yankee Pot roast, but remember all of the odd combinations that are divine. I, too, thought that Rendang would be too spicy for a couple of the kids, but they love it.

So, return it to the library, and if no one has it on hold, ask if you can renew it.

And, while you're at it, watch one of these on eBay.

And, so what did happen to that frittata? They chill well and make great lunches in kid's lunch boxes...

[Lori in PA]

Oh, the book is on my list for sure. I just have to wait for the budget to allow it. I have this one out through interlibrary loan, so there is no renewing it -- just a $1 a day fine if I return it late, which is why I'm getting all I can out of it right now! :-)

The frittata will be consumed -- no worries. Is there a food more universally liked? A good-sized wedge is accompanying some of the leftover rendang for dh's lunch at work tomorrow and I imagine the rest will be scarfed up at breakfast by the offspring.

[Della]

I am cooking dinner for my sisters birthday Saturday night. I was wondering if anyone has made the chicken and pork adobado. It looks great but, I'd love some reviews.

Also what would you serve with it? Thanks.

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I have not made it, but a close friend had us over for dinner and served it. It is indeed wonderful.

She served it with rice, the tomato relish (recipe in the book) and sauteed broccoli.

Definitely yummy and something I will make soon.

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Greg and I made this a week or so ago and I have to say it was GREAT! We made the tomato relish suggested in the book and some sticky rice and I have to say - Pork and Chicken in one dish is right on!

[Becca Porter]

Okay, I am hoping for some quick help. Since tonight is Valentines Day I would like to make a good supper. The problem is it is a busy night. I have my dds soccer practice from 5-6, then I have to pick my husband up at 6:30. Thats puts us home at 7:00. Too late to cook a meal start to finish.

I want to make the smothered top blade steaks with mushrooms and onions. It has you cook the steaks on the stovetop for about an 11/2 hours at a low simmer. I need them to cook for at least 2 hrs and 15 minutes. What would be the best way?

Would they be okay on the stovetop or should I put them in a 250-275 degree oven. Or should I scrap it and eat hot dogs ?

Thanks.

[Anna N]

...

Would they be okay on the stovetop or should I put them in a 250-275 degree oven. Or should I scrap it and eat hot dogs ?

Thanks.

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I have made this a number of times and always finish it in the oven. I think if you check it very carefully to ensure that the liquid is only barely moving (a very, very slow simmer) and you top the contents with some parchment before putting on a tight lid, you should be fine.

[johnjohn]

Does Molly give any hints/tricks to get a somewhat crisp skin when braising chicken? Is it even possible?

[Becca Porter]

I don't believe it is possible to do both. Unless you do what she does in the whole braised chicken recipe. After it finishes braising she puts it on a pan and sticks it in a very hot oven to crisp up.

[Marlene]

Step by Step Grillades and Grits (well ok, not Grits)

I've been wanting to do Molly's Grillades and Grits (not grits ) for some time now.

Here's a step by step of the process:

There's a reasonable amount of prep to this dish so start by gathering your mise:

Beef stock, green peppers, celery, onions paprika, cayenne and garlic, not shown is tomato paste and flour.

I used chuck steaks for this:

Cut into strips and pounded:

Using bacon fat if you have it, or peanut oil if you don't, melt the fat and sear the beef:

When the beef is done, remove it and add more bacon fat and flour to make a roux:

Cook that for several minutes then add the celery, peppers and onions and cook for 20 minutes or so:

Then add your spices and tomato paste:

And then the beef stock and boil briefly until thickened:

Add the beef back in, make sure the braise is only barely simmering (I needed a heat diffuser for this) and cover:

Check it every 15 minutes or so to make sure the liquid is barely bubbling and stir. Braise it for about an hour and a half. The book says an hour, but at an hour it still needed a bit of time.

Not being a grits fan, I made roasted garlic mashed for this.

Served:

(still playing with the new camera)

we really liked this dish (even without the grits). It was spicy and the beef was very tender. The key is certainly to simmer the beef at a very low simmer. Otherwise, it's likely to toughen up.

[Lori in PA]

Thanks, Marlene -- it looks very good. This was one of the things I'd hoped to make before I had to return the book to the library, but regular life intervened and I didn't even get a chance to copy the couple of recipes I had particularly liked that I DID make. Ah well, I'll try to buy it soon.

[Marlene]

Tonight we had the Pot Roast with Rhubarb and Honey. I had made this on Thursday but knew with one thing or another we weren't going to get to it until tonight. In addition, I used the other half of my brisket flat, and I had to use the apples variation because well, rhubarb just isn't available here right now:

Rub the meat with the spices and let it sit for 12 - 36 hours. I let this sit for the full 36 hours:

Brown the meat and set it aside:

And gather your mise:

Saute the onions, raisins and fresh ginger, then add the rest of the ingredients and boil for a few minutes:

Add the meat back in and slide it into the oven. I used a 240 oven for this and braised it for 4 hours.

You're supposed to use part of the apples or rhubarb in the beginning and add the rest later, but I totally forgot and added them all at the beginning.

I strained and degreased it before putting it back in the fridge tonight. For dinner tonight, I was in search of a decent potato idea, having had mashed last night. Yesterday, when I was scanning Jackal10's excellent eGCI Potato Primer course, I came upon the picture of potatoes croquettes and I figured since I had left over mashed potatoes and oil from yesterday, these would be a good thing to try:

I used panko bread crumbs and fried away:

Dinner:

Don declared this the best pot roast ever.

[kellycolorado]

Thanks to this mouthwatering thread I bought the book a few months ago and made my first braise from it Monday (chicken with olives and prunes). Yum! Restaurant quality flavor. I can't wait to try more...

--Kelly

[Lori in PA]

Thanks for the report on the roast, Marlene. I gotta say that one didn't sound so good to me, but your recommendation carries some weight.

[Marlene]

Lori, I'd have to agree with your initial reaction. I'm just not a fan of rhubarb at the best of times. But using the apple variation plus using a brisket flat really took this one to the next level, I think.

[snowangel]

Tonight we had the Pot Roast with Rhubarb and Honey.  I had made this on Thursday but knew with one thing or another we weren't going to get to it until tonight.

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I also made this dish, and it looked like it was fated not to happen. I started mine last Tuesday and we finally got to it last night!

I had noted this recipe last summer, and when I harvested rhubarb, I specifically put aside the right amount in a ziplock in the freezer. Since I don't really like raisins, I opted not to include them.

And, instead of using beef brisket, I used vension. Heaven knows, I have enough of it! It looked like a briskety piece, so I figured why not?

So, when I started the braise last week, I only added half of the rhubarb, per the instructions. When I thought we were going to eat it last Friday, I added the rest of the rhubarb, but before I could get it into the oven, realized that we weren't eating dinner as a family that night, so out of the deck (outdoor fridge/freezer) it went.

When this thing was in the oven yesterday, it quickly became apparent that it does, indeed need the raisins, so I added them (I didn't have any golden ones, so used regular dark ones).

Over mashed, with caesar salad and pan roasted asparagus.

Count this as another real winner. This is probably my favorite potroasted recipe in the book. And, works with more cuts than just the brisket, as Marlene noted above. The vension (as is the case with most venison) was not very well marbled, but this was tender and succulent. And, as both Marlene and I have proven, this dish is very forgiving of changing plans!

[johnjohn]

I made the Goan chicken earlier in the week. It was easy to make and tasted good, but wasn't the prettiest looking dish. The sauce was very flavorful, I used half heavy cream and half sour cream to give it a little tang (it only calls for 3 tablespoons). I also strained it, and added freshly chopped mint and cilantro at the end - the herbs in the braising liquid tasted tired and dull. The chicken thighs are browned without the skin - mine stuck to the pan and in loosening them the meat got torn. That may have added to the unpleasant look of the dish. If I was to do it again, I may dredge them in floor or do them in a nonstick pan. I served it with a rice pilaf that had lemon zest, dried cherries, almond slivers, and spinach in it - that seemed to go really well with the chicken and was good for absorbing the tasty sauce.

[snowangel]

I made the Goan chicken earlier in the week.  It was easy to make and tasted good, but wasn't the prettiest looking dish.  The sauce was very flavorful, I used half heavy cream and half sour cream to give it a little tang (it only calls for 3 tablespoons).  I also strained it, and added freshly chopped mint and cilantro at the end - the herbs in the braising liquid tasted tired and dull.  The chicken thighs are browned without the skin - mine stuck to the pan and in loosening them the meat got torn.  That may have added to the unpleasant look of the dish.  If I was to do it again, I may dredge them in floor or do them in a nonstick pan.  I served it with a rice pilaf that had lemon zest, dried cherries, almond slivers, and spinach in it - that seemed to go really well with the chicken and was good for absorbing the tasty sauce.

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I had the same problem with the skinless chicken sticking to the pan and getting torn. I solved the browning the skinless thighs by first browning them with the skin on. When the flesh under the skin has turned white, I pulled the skin off and then browned them -- and they didn't stick.

BTW, most of the braised dishes I've made are not very pretty either! Thanks for the report. I'll add it to my list of things to make.

[Della]

I made the Yankee Pot Roast recipe on Saturday to serve on Sunday.  It was good, but I liked the Zinfandel Pot Roast from the book better.  It called for Hard Cider as the deglazing liquid.  Having never cooked with hard cider I was looking forward to seeing what it would bring to the dish flavorwise.  Sadly, it didn't bring much - I couldn't really taste it or the sweetness I assumed it would add.  The cloves in the recipe were a nice background taste, though.

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Ditto to everything you said. I tried it myself last night because we liked both the Zinfandel Pot Roast and the Brisket with Rhubarb and Honey but I have to say this one was a big disappointment. It was "fine" but I have had better. My boyfriend, who loves sauce, jus and drippings, mentioned that he was VERY disappointed in the braising liquid. There was just nothing to it flavorwise. And I used veal stock and hard cider to braise this dish. The whole thing would have benefited from a huge handful of fresh herbs.

Speaking of Herbs..........see how I changed course there? I typically braise our short ribs using the recipe out of the Herb Farm Cookbookby Jerry Traunfeld (not his new one but the original) and they are awesome. Just really delicious!! I am going to try Marlene's receipe next time and see how they turn out. They "sound" great and we are fans of the short rib.

Anyway - I think the next thing I am going to try out of Molly is the Chicken Fricassee w/Artichokes and Mushrooms. I'll post how it turns out.

[NYC Mike]

What an amazing thread!

The cook through the cookbook threads here on eGullet are wonderful and oh so helpful for someone like me (the novice cook ) now that I find myself having to do dinner for 3 kids 5 nights a week!

I've just recieved my copy and am going to try Chicken & Dumplings tonight since we have everything onhand!

-Mike

[NYC Mike]

The dish was great, thanks to all for the temp. advice too. I started out following the book to the letter of the law....following the K-I-S-S sales rule works for me generally but I did need to scale the temp down quite a bit to maintain a simmer.

My dumplings came out as one large mass instead of 8 nicely separated dumplings. Taste was still great but any advice on that would be welcome. I think I either made the dough too wet initially (finished texture was fine) or I didn't space them out enough and they cooked together.

Huge note to self, the lid handle gets really hot, use a potholder next time. #1 son said "um..dad..that looked like it was really bad idea dude."

-Mike

[Blondelle]

Marlene, your dishes look really delicious. Your buffet casserole is really getting a workout ;-). I think I remember though you having the 5 qt. one. Are you doubling her recipes? Do you think the dishes above would also work in the 3.5 qt buffet? I can barely lift the 3.5 qt. one empty. I can only imagine how heavy the 5 qt. one would be with food. Seemed to be even heavier than my 5.5 qt. LC oven.

Tonight we had the Pot Roast with Rhubarb and Honey.  I had made this on Thursday but knew with one thing or another we weren't going to get to it until tonight.

←

I also made this dish, and it looked like it was fated not to happen. I started mine last Tuesday and we finally got to it last night!

I had noted this recipe last summer, and when I harvested rhubarb, I specifically put aside the right amount in a ziplock in the freezer. Since I don't really like raisins, I opted not to include them.

And, instead of using beef brisket, I used vension. Heaven knows, I have enough of it! It looked like a briskety piece, so I figured why not?

So, when I started the braise last week, I only added half of the rhubarb, per the instructions. When I thought we were going to eat it last Friday, I added the rest of the rhubarb, but before I could get it into the oven, realized that we weren't eating dinner as a family that night, so out of the deck (outdoor fridge/freezer) it went.

When this thing was in the oven yesterday, it quickly became apparent that it does, indeed need the raisins, so I added them (I didn't have any golden ones, so used regular dark ones).

Over mashed, with caesar salad and pan roasted asparagus.

Count this as another real winner. This is probably my favorite potroasted recipe in the book. And, works with more cuts than just the brisket, as Marlene noted above. The vension (as is the case with most venison) was not very well marbled, but this was tender and succulent. And, as both Marlene and I have proven, this dish is very forgiving of changing plans!

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[Marlene]

I do have the 5 quart buffet. I now also have several round ones of various sizes. The buffet casserole gets used mainly for short ribs, and other small pieces while the larger pot roasts go into the 5 or 7.5 quart round dutch ovens. I have to say though that I use the buffet casserole for all kinds of things though and it is probably the most used of my Le Crueset pieces. And no, I tend not to double her recipes as I 've never had to and the buffet casserole seems to fit the dish I'm doing at the time.

It is a heavy so and so, though!

Mike, I can't help you with the dumpling question since that's one dish I haven't made from Molly's book yet.

[Blondelle]

Thanks Marlene! I had wanted to know though if you thought her recipes would also work in the 3.5 qt. LC buffet casserole, or do they pretty much fill your large one. It's hard to judge from the photos if a smaller one such as the one I have would also work. I would really appreciate your opinion as you seem to make so many recipes in yours. Thanks much ;-).

I do have the 5 quart buffet. I now also have several round ones of various sizes.   The buffet casserole gets used mainly for short ribs, and other small pieces while the larger pot roasts go into the 5 or 7.5 quart round dutch ovens.  I have to say though that I use the buffet casserole for all kinds of things though and it is probably the most used of my Le Crueset pieces.  And no, I tend not to double her recipes as I 've never had to and the buffet casserole seems to fit the dish I'm doing at the time.

It is a heavy so and so, though!

Mike, I can't help you with the dumpling question since that's one dish I haven't made from Molly's book yet.

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[NYC Mike]

Thanks Marlene. This book is breeding some serious over-confidence, I made the cabbage and butter/rosemary potatoes to go with some chops yesterday and it was another big hit with the team.

-Mike