ME-HEE-CO (or avocados every day!)

**catdaddy** · February 15, 2023

Thank you for taking the time to post all these wonderful photos. I just love all the fruit!

BonVivant · February 16, 2023

Brought to table as soon as you sat down. A busy restaurant, clean and efficient. The queue starts at around 8:30am (we got there at 08:00). At lunch time the queue gets stupid long but seems locals and Mexican tourists don't mind waiting.

Omelette filled with chorizo (not Spanish chorizo)

Rancheros

At my hotel... oh god, no more earthquakes! And besides, I'm on 7th floor.

Typical Mexican chairs and how they are being made.

We kept in touch with a pair who shared the whale watching boat with us last year and used to live in Guadalajara but now lives in Ajijic. We took a taxi to a birria restaurant half way between the 2 places to meet up with them. Massive restaurant with outdoor and indoor sitting areas. They are famous for their tradional Jalisco style birria. Our acquaintances only eat birria here.

I tried this for the first time. Has tequila in it.

Our acquaintances ordered a plate of meaty goat meat only and a plate of mixed meat (surtido) including organ bits and blood.

Very savoury bean puree. The broth is used to cook the beans, probably.

Melted cheese. We couldn't finish everything. Our acquaintances took the leftovers home.

Back in Guadalajara later. New beers on chalk board.

BonVivant · February 16, 2023

Back to the same restaurant today because we wanted to try their pozole.

Pozole with both chicken and pork

The restaurant's own dish of eggs (underneath the sauces), pork belly and chicharron. I chose 2 types of sauces and 2 types of meat.

Took a bus to Chapala, a lakeside small town, to meet up with our acquaintances again.

Thous shall not pass. Coot faces the pelicans.

Men in costumes

A coconut every day

Our acquaintances chose this "Argentinian" restaurant on the pier.

2 meat, 1 spinach and cheese and 1 caprese (last one for myself)

My favourite empanada in Argentina was caprese. This restaurant's version is very different, mainly the pasty.

Parrillada for 4

Today's beers

8 hours ago, catdaddy said:

Thank you for taking the time to post all these wonderful photos. I just love all the fruit!

Thanks!

I ate a big plate every morning in Madeira (another good place for fruit lovers).

blue_dolphin · February 16, 2023

12 hours ago, BonVivant said:

Pozole with both chicken and pork

This looks interesting! No chiles at all? What is the broth seasoned with? Just a light chicken or pork broth? Pozole rojo (with dried chiles) is most common in my area with pozole verde (with fresh green chiles) a close second but I haven't had an opportunity to try pozole blanco.

Another thanks for taking us along on your travels!

heidih · February 16, 2023

2 hours ago, blue_dolphin said:

This looks interesting! No chiles at all? What is the broth seasoned with? Just a light chicken or pork broth? Pozole rojo (with dried chiles) is most common in my area with pozole verde (with fresh green chiles) a close second but I haven't had an opportunity to try pozole blanco.

Another thanks for taking us along on your travels!

Every time I hear or read posole I think of this wonderful article by the late beloved Patricia Quintana. It will make you crave a bowl along with the add-ins. https://www.latimes.com/archives/la-xpm-1994-10-13-fo-49542-story.html

Edited February 16, 2023 by heidih (log)

blue_dolphin · February 16, 2023

20 minutes ago, heidih said:

Every time I hear or read posole I thin of this wonderful article by the late beloved Patricia Quintano. It rill make you crave a biw akkong with the add-ins. https://www.latimes.com/archives/la-xpm-1994-10-13-fo-49542-story.html

Thanks for the link! This made me smile:

Quote

Here, and in other Mexican towns dotting the coast, Thursday is posole day.

Thursday was always pozole day in the company cafeterias at the last place I worked. There were 2 soups everyday and they rotated through quite a selection but Thursday was always pozole!

BonVivant · February 18, 2023

A soupy dish with chipotle, corn, chickpeas, rice and avocado.

A bit like pozole but not exactly.

Not a fan of soggy bread/tortillas but I'm willing to try it more than once just to be sure and then I can slag it off.

We took a bus to Tequila today. Maybe because it was a Sunday or it's always stupid busy and deafening in Tequila every day of the week. It's like a giant stag party. Everyone was drinking Tequila sitting down or walking. I had to leave the centre to find silence (near impossible in Mexico). In a quiet area just off the deafening centre I saw an open window... It's Jose Cuervo distillery.

But our destination was Casa Sauza

Sauza's agave farm near the distillery. Their other farms are much farther away.

An employee demonstrated how to harvest agave

No leaf and in full bloom. Framed by an arch seen from inside the distillery.

Couldn't make any photos inside whilst doing the tour until now. At the end of the tour we got to make our own Tequila drink.

Enjoying the drink in Sauza's inner courtyard. I took a few sips. Mixed drinks are not my thing.

Found a simple restaurant at the end of the street very close to Sauza and it was full of Mexicans, in a residential neighbourhood with no other restaurants nearby.

Everyone ordered a plate of 4 or 5 tacos like these. We decide to try them ourselves.

Quesadilla with chorizo

Grilled meat

A communication mistake. It was supposed to be either this or the grilled meat, but young daughter who took our order thought we also wanted papas rellenas and carne assada. Luckily were very hungry. Btw, papas rellenas is actually mashed potatoes. We have had it a few times. One time it also had cactus in the parcel.

The bus to Tequila looked quite normal here. It took so long because the driver stopped for every single person that stood by the roadside.

Once inside it became apparent that it's possibly the oldest bus. The door couldn't close properly, the rubber seal all round it was warped leaving visible gaps. It rocked side way like a boat in rough seas when going over (speed) bumps.

Couldn't stretch my legs.

We had to wait for some time at this intersection. Something was going on in Tequila, a big group of cowboys was crossing the road.

And I thought the bus on the way to Tequila was the oldest one still in use. The one we took on the way back was older. There was about 3 buttons on the dash board. Really, Mercedes? Young driver was eating chilli drenched potato crisps and blasting music all the way to Guadalajara.

Finally, back in our room after a loud and interesting adventure.

On 2/16/2023 at 6:08 PM, blue_dolphin said:

This looks interesting! No chiles at all? What is the broth seasoned with? Just a light chicken or pork broth? Pozole rojo (with dried chiles) is most common in my area with pozole verde (with fresh green chiles) a close second but I haven't had an opportunity to try pozole blanco.

Another thanks for taking us along on your travels!

No chillies in this pozole blanco. Could be regional or personal/restaurant's own recipes. I'm always happy to try pozoles everywhere I go (in Mexico that is).

This was in Oaxaca last year.

I have just had a prawn version and it was something completely different (in a good way).

BonVivant · March 1, 2023

There are many food stalls on 2 floors inside the market. We are back there eating.

I ordered one with green sauce.

Turns out, the "parrot" (perico) is a big flour tortilla filled with meat and whole beans, topped with lots of melted cheese.

Needed some eggs and they don't make them without the bean puree and red sauced tortillas.

The "food court" is well organised, the stalls can be big or small, no concrete benches like in 2 other cities I have visited (Oaxaca, Morelia). One thing is the same everywhere, though, the stalls all vie so furiously for customers.

Repurposing a chilli sauce bottle. They also use drink bottles.

Chilli shopping

Second time seeing habanero seco

Another spelling is "pulla". Same pronunciation.

Mexican marjoram . Leaves must be big. Mine in the garden is much smaller.

2 different colourss of hibiscus. Darker has more color and lighter red has more taste. I notice Mexicans order a glass or a whole pitcher.

My chilli collection so far. I had to check how much room I had left after filling my bag with these.

Back to the market...

I might regret eating these blood cockles. Nothing happened but next time I would rather them cooked. These are not hairy like ones I ate in Asia.

Prawns in a spicy sauce. Not really "spicy". Some toursits be like "I don't like Mexican food. Chillis in every thing. Too spicy" Errr.... not always.

Snacks. Very sweet jackfruit (pods). Red balls are tamarind with chilli.

Sugarcane juice. The chilli/salt/lime trays are for other fruits.

Next to the sugarcane stall is another fruit stall and they have these beautiful wild pineapples that busted my lips.

I saw the sign there every day. Not sure why they think it's "flor de maguey". The name they use is pre-hispanic but pretty sure it's no flower of agave.

Some big celebration was happening in the centre. Huge press presence, also a bigger presence of police and security. It was probably the birthday of the city, Guadalajara.

So many designs

Bart is entrepreneurial

Cotton candy

Boy noticed me with a camera and he smiled. I wasn't even trying to make a photo of him but he didn't stop smiling.

PS: New to me on this trip that a bunch of sites are blocked, either partially or completely, by some internet providers. Surprisingly this site is partially block. Did not experience this on previous trips.

Edited March 1, 2023 by BonVivant (log)

BonVivant · March 1, 2023

This pozole specialist is located in a busy area with lots of shops and people. It's time we visited them.

Prawn pozole. Spicy and very prawny.

Rojo

Blanco

With chicharon and part of a trotter. This one and the prawn are our favourites. The other 2 (blanco and rojo)... oh, pah-leeze. Move.Over.

We got a sampler of 4 types.

Yessss, I still have some room in my rucksack. For more chillis.

A week in Guadalajara came to an end. Last day do get the chili shopping done.

All the chillis at this shop inside the market are of high quality. The seller was so happy to see us again (yesterday we got a couple of kilos)

The yahualica flakes are for on my pizza

Didn't get this birria seasoning. Jalisco being the birth place of birria.

Time for my fruits again

A popular carnitas stall inside the market

We each got a plate of 4 "surtido" (mixed meat)

All the meat cuts are strangely red.

I was curious about "barbacoa". It's deep-fried (flour?) tortillas filled with savoury bean puree.

In front of me

To my left

To my right

Last of the beer in Guadalajara

Small glasses

Now we went across the street to another craft beer bar

So dark inside. Totally different atmosphere, not to mention more expensive. Had 2 beer and left quickly.

One last bottle.

Some governments' fear-mongering campaign does work. Hardly any tourists in massive Guadalajara (Jalisco) and even rarer in Morelia (Michoacan). We enjoyed both places and would return, especially Michoacan. Great food there. We survived mega city Guadalajara, maybe we'd give MEX a go in the future.

Edited March 1, 2023 by BonVivant (log)

heidih · March 1, 2023

I can smell those wonderul dried chiles. If they have agricultural dogs where your home flight lands - they will be overwhelmed with an unfamiiar scent. We use beagles here. I am not big on fruis as it makes me ravenous but you inspired me to experiment. If I eat protein in morning then fruit is a treat and not a trigger. I bought the same strawberries you posted a while back today. US$ 2.50/lb Driscolls from Mexico. Not the dead ripe intoxicatting in season scent/taste from my farmers market, but firm, nice sweet tart mix - very enjoyable.

BonVivant · March 18, 2023

Long day travelling. A flight to La Paz (in Baja California Sur), then 3 hours by bus and another hour in the taxi to reach the whale watching location. Baja Sur is usually warm already in February but this year it's so cold and the hotels don't have heating (ceiling fans are useless now).

Just missed the bus and had some time to kill until the next departure. The only meal today:

We experienced moderate turbulence during much of the flight but it got bad just before we started to descend. Bouncing up and down in our seats, whole plane was shaking like in an earthquake. Felt like we were losing altitude uncontrollably as we dropped so fast. On top of this the plane dipped sharply a couple of times in the middle of the fast descend and turbulence. All the passengers were still (and probably gripping the armrests hard) during this, some women in the rows in front of us shrieked each time the plane dipped. This was not a normal approach, let's hope the landing gear wouldn't break upon landing! Touchdown was very hard but thankfully nothing unfortunate happened. During this harrowing turbulence there was not one word from the flight deck! Turns out "that's Volaris for you", I was told.

------------------------------------------------------

Next day.

This time we could stay no longer than a couple of days to see whales at Bahia Magdalena. Got up early and got back from whale watching early in the afternoon. Rested, and then ate something and the day was over. It's like this every day when you are here solely for the whale watching.

There are several types of hot sauces but this was the "hottest" for me.

I always order a ceviche of almejas chocolatas, so here it is again. It used to have avocado slices on top and the portion was bigger.

The guacamole had no onion by request. There's more than enough onion in my ceviche.

-------------------------------------

The only thing that had fruits and yoghurt. The yoghurt is usually sweetened so I can't eat it. There's only 2 tea spoons worth of it. The partner ate the yoghurt and teeth busting crunchy granola for me.

Papas con chorizo (potatoes with Mexican "chorizo", a type of minced meat/sausage).

After an hour in the taxi and 3 nauseating hours in the bus going round and round, up and down the mountains we arrived at Loreto. Cold and windy, unlike previous times.

Immediately hit the supermarket. Price of avocado is not bad, actually. I have seen over 70 pesos before. But then it's no avocado paradise Michoacan so be glad that the avocados here are still the high quality stuff (buttery, flavourful, and Mexican grown).

Every day in Loreto we like to eat a big cup of soursop ice cream from a shop across the street.

First meal in Loreto is always at this restaurant. The 3 chickens are still around.

Salsa looks the same, but not the taste.

Scallop aguachile

A piping hot and heavy molcajete

"Surf and turf" with cactus and peppers.

Unfortunately, we don't want to return after this. So much has changed. The menu, the prices, employees, the experience, the food, the restaurant. Also, many gringos have found out.

We enjoyed these tamales more. From a street vendor next to a supermarket. She got the sign translated, I see. Got 1 of each, asked about chocolate sauced chicken and she said yes she had it. We got it, too.

Beer alongside. February is probably mango season. Every time we are here the (super)markets are full of ripe mangoes, many crates of them to choose from. We ate 4 mangoes over the kitchen sink every day.

How to know you are a Baja Sur repeat visitor? Employees at hotels, restaurants, pubs remember you. And the wifi connects automatically. An employee at this craft beer bar recognised me at once. Good to see him, too. The only craft beer bar in town. Head brewer is an Irish expat.

Edited March 18, 2023 by BonVivant (log)

**Smithy** · March 19, 2023

Sorry to read that your erstwhile favorite restaurant in Loreto was a disappointment. Thanks for the update, though. It looks as though you've found plenty of other good places to eat!

heidih · March 19, 2023

1 hour ago, Smithy said:

Sorry to read that your erstwhile favorite restaurant in Loreto was a disappointment. Thanks for the update, though. It looks as though you've found plenty of other good places to eat!

A lot like some former fishing spots that ex and his buddies liked. Tourism turned them into Disneyland. With climate change the whales may not be using it as breeding ground anyway.

C. sapidus · March 19, 2023

On 2/17/2023 at 11:59 PM, BonVivant said:

A soupy dish with chipotle, corn, chickpeas, rice and avocado.

A bit like pozole but not exactly.

Not a fan of soggy bread/tortillas but I'm willing to try it more than once just to be sure and then I can slag it off.

We took a bus to Tequila today. Maybe because it was a Sunday or it's always stupid busy and deafening in Tequila every day of the week. It's like a giant stag party. Everyone was drinking Tequila sitting down or walking. I had to leave the centre to find silence (near impossible in Mexico). In a quiet area just off the deafening centre I saw an open window... It's Jose Cuervo distillery.

But our destination was Casa Sauza

Sauza's agave farm near the distillery. Their other farms are much farther away.

An employee demonstrated how to harvest agave

No leaf and in full bloom. Framed by an arch seen from inside the distillery.

Couldn't make any photos inside whilst doing the tour until now. At the end of the tour we got to make our own Tequila drink.

Enjoying the drink in Sauza's inner courtyard. I took a few sips. Mixed drinks are not my thing.

Found a simple restaurant at the end of the street very close to Sauza and it was full of Mexicans, in a residential neighbourhood with no other restaurants nearby.

Everyone ordered a plate of 4 or 5 tacos like these. We decide to try them ourselves.

Quesadilla with chorizo

Grilled meat

A communication mistake. It was supposed to be either this or the grilled meat, but young daughter who took our order thought we also wanted papas rellenas and carne assada. Luckily were very hungry. Btw, papas rellenas is actually mashed potatoes. We have had it a few times. One time it also had cactus in the parcel.

The bus to Tequila looked quite normal here. It took so long because the driver stopped for every single person that stood by the roadside.

Once inside it became apparent that it's possibly the oldest bus. The door couldn't close properly, the rubber seal all round it was warped leaving visible gaps. It rocked side way like a boat in rough seas when going over (speed) bumps.

Couldn't stretch my legs.

We had to wait for some time at this intersection. Something was going on in Tequila, a big group of cowboys was crossing the road.

And I thought the bus on the way to Tequila was the oldest one still in use. The one we took on the way back was older. There was about 3 buttons on the dash board. Really, Mercedes? Young driver was eating chilli drenched potato crisps and blasting music all the way to Guadalajara.

Finally, back in our room after a loud and interesting adventure.

No chillies in this pozole blanco. Could be regional or personal/restaurant's own recipes. I'm always happy to try pozoles everywhere I go (in Mexico that is).

This was in Oaxaca last year.

I have just had a prawn version and it was something completely different (in a good way).

Thanks for doing this, and thanks for all the chorizo and chile photos. If _________ and Mexican chorizo is not a food group, it should be.

JoNorvelleWalker · June 19, 2023

Sorry @BonVivant I missed this thread until now. Thank you as always for sharing your adventures.

BonVivant · June 19, 2023

Finally I could get round to finishing this (trip). My new laptop arrived shortly after I got home from Lithuania and the last couple of days have been nothing but frustration and headaches trying to set it up and running. Windows 11 is utter rubbish. Staggering ineffiicency, it wastes you time and insults your intelligence, not to mention a new level of keeping tabs on you. Hold on to your previous Windows version for as long as possible.

Back to Mexico...

After Loreto there's not much to photograph, it's just getting up early getting ready for whale tours and going to bed early. It's the last week of this trip and it's only whale watching every day.

We always visit El Rey del Taco down the road from the lodging, at least once. A very simple restaurant run by El Rey and his partner, both English speaking and friendly (like nearly all Mexicans, really). The taco shop is always busy and sometimes first-timers who don't have patience get up and leave, or keep trying to get the wife's attention to order. She'll come to you when she's ready.

She'll ask the tourists what type of tortilla they prefer, and if they would like the spicy peppers and onions. This is to prevent wasting food. Some tourists don't touch the peppers and onions. My taco as brought to me, before I piled on all the other bits. One taco comes with 2 tortillas and big pieces of fish. You make 2 tacos with 1.

We also ordered "Cabeza" but it usually runs out fast. I have tried cabeza several times but couln't get into it. Couldn't get past the strong smell of some part(s).

Eat this every day in Mexico. Fresh and warm corn tortillas to be filled with buttery avocados. That's a 1kg stack of corn tortillas, still steamy.

Found pure frozen passion fruit pulp and soursop to snack on.

Only in the course of a year we noticed a few things had changed. Some homes and businesses are gone, some new restaurants and businesses appeared. This corner former house is still around and well kept.

It's so cold and windy this year it's so unlike Loreto. No beach weather.

Funky snowy egret (I think). He eats the big black critters on the rocks. Windy day (actually all the days we were in Loreto this year).

Deemed a pest in some cities/countries. They land on the boat as soon as it approaches the harbour. They are huge (but still smaller than other species of pelicans). We like observing them, they are comical.

BonVivant · June 19, 2023

Roadside food

Minced prawn filling

Prawn pozole. A little spicy.

You'll often see whale wall murals in towns or villages where there's whale tourism.

A bbq rig

It's an old Suzuki Samurai classic jeep

One of the few hand-painted signs left. They used to be hand-painted like this, just like adverts and film posters.

The promenade in Loreto. Not used to seeing Loreto so cloudy, cold and windy. We had to put on a light jacket the whole time and it was also most cold in the evening/early morning.

Loreto is full of palm trees. It does feel like a classic Mexican holiday.

My favourite whole pig spit-roast man on a street corner is no longer in business in Loreto, but by chance I found a carnitas shop where locals queue from opening time. Guest house owners and us joined the queue on a Sunday morning and we all ate the meal together. This chicharon is so good. I'm sure the Michoacanos would approve (they are a, rightly, difficult bunch when it comes to chicharon and carnitas). We snacked on the leftover chicharon during the long bus ride to the north, drawing longing looks from Mexican passengers.

Guest house owners also thought the carnitas was good. $10 for all of this. Lasted 2 meals.

And later, beer from a craft beer bar on the next street.

BonVivant · June 19, 2023

Last photos in Loreto before a gruelling 10 hour bus ride north to near the north-south Baja border.

We eat at this "comida corrida" place down the road from the guest house every time. The beans are soupy but we like the rest just fine.

A juvenile blue-footed booby. The male version of this bird has striking blue feet.

Too bad he sat down when I pulled out the camera. But he was standing up before that so I got to see the feet.

An osprey directly above me. It's the season so you see them everywhere.

Next day in Guerrero Negro after returning from whale watching. Went to the spot where the taco truck used to park but didn't see it there. We were sad thinking the business went belly up. This town experienced a bad hurricane last August and many businesses never recovered. Anyway, this birria truck is new this year so we decided to check it out.

The partner ate the cabeza

"Carnitas"

BonVivant · June 19, 2023

What it's like to be approached by friendly whales

Flipper. Grown man for size.

We found the town's taco truck again! Everyone was happy to see each other again. They recognised us straight away. So they had moved to a different spot, 2 streets away. They are opening a small restaurant next season. Hopefully they'll have more than tacos, like ceviche, aguachile and other seafood snacks/dishes.

We ordered plate after plate of prawn and fish tacos.

---

Laguna Ojo de Liebre, where up to 2 thousand grey whales gather before heading to Alaska. The water is warm and level of salinity is high, both are crucial for birthing and new born calves.

4 whales swimming near the boat. (Closest one is a white patch, about to surface)

A special moment, for first-timers and repeaters alike. The tenderness of both species is heartwarming.

First-timer's mistake... touching or kissing the super sharp barnacles. I've seen people got gashed.

This one kept opening its mouth

More tacos

BonVivant · June 19, 2023

Last day of whale watching and eating Tony's tacos.

Had to check out a new restaurant. After Tony's this is what the restaurant served (fish and octopus tacos). We thought it was a joke, but unfortunately it was not.

The aguachile was weird, too. We left quickly. But it doesn't matter, because the whales were so incredible that you forgot the unpleasant things and unkind people ever existed.

We experienced a gang of aggressive whales for the first time. The guide in another boat said she ran into them 3 days in a row. They surrounded and circled our boat and waved their big flukes uncomfortably close, they tried to lift and rock the boat, literally . It was a bit scary, really. When we tried to escape, they then followed us for a long time. If we stopped they would start the whole thing again.

So close to where I was sitting... Only takes one flick and in the water you go, or worse, breaks your neck. But aggressive whales are not common.

Thanks for your trust and generosity, whales! So far we have done 26 or 27 whale watch trips! Each time was different and incredible.

These highly intelligent creatures piercing stare gives you the chills. (My camera can be submerged in water)

Love Mexico. Always looking forward to the next trip back to this amazing country.

Muchas gracias, Mexico!

Whale watching places I visited on this trip. Gave up on San Ignacio. Laguna is best. Will go to Laguna from now on.

(And thanks for reading this far)

Edited June 20, 2023 by BonVivant (log)

heidih · June 19, 2023

Thank you for the wonderful finale to your trip. Always enjoy the food. The whales! Los Angeles Times today reported on odd whale behavior (Killer Whales) boat bashing etc. in Europe - Iberian Peninsua. Experts puzzled. Think they are playing and not being aggressive to injure but their size - things happen.

JoNorvelleWalker · June 20, 2023

7 hours ago, heidih said:

Thank you for the wonderful finale to your trip. Always enjoy the food. The whales! Los Angeles Times today reported on odd whale behavior (Killer Whales) boat bashing etc. in Europe - Iberian Peninsua. Experts puzzled. Think they are playing and not being aggressive to injure but their size - things happen.

From what I'm reading I'm not sure the killer whales are playing.

KennethT · June 20, 2023

@BonVivantThanks for yet another amazing trip! So glad I could experience it through your lens.

weinoo · June 20, 2023

19 hours ago, BonVivant said:

We experienced a gang of aggressive whales for the first time. The guide in another boat said she ran into them 3 days in a row. They surrounded and circled our boat and waved their big flukes uncomfortably close, they tried to lift and rocked the boat, literally . It was a bit scary, really. When we tried to escape, they then followed us for a long time. If we stopped they would start the whole thing again.

It doesn't appear as if Mexico has similar rules about getting too close to the whales as are often in place here in the US when whale watching.

Certainly the adults could be protecting calves, or just get annoyed by boats and injuries sustained from boats.

And - they were there first.

**TdeV** · June 24, 2023

Thank you, @BonVivant. I enjoy your posts very much.

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