Salt Cod -- how to use it, cook with it?

[touaregsand]

I don't have the patience to wait for my husband to get home. So I did a quick internet search and came with up the following (cause ya know the internet is THE most reliable source for historical research. )

http://www.everything2.com/index.pl?node=B...ue%20de%20Nimes

I also found another recipe, it's in French, but pretty easy to follow. Lot's of pictures and all .

http://www.supertoinette.com/recettes/brandade_morue_to.htm

[PCL]

In my opinion, and it's just that, the stuff you do a'la Keller isn't stinky enough for any of the 'traditional' dishes. A good polpete di bacala simply doesn't work without the pungency.

[touaregsand]

In my opinion, and it's just that, the stuff you do a'la Keller isn't stinky enough for any of the 'traditional' dishes. A good polpete di bacala simply doesn't work without the pungency.

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Well I agree with you that coffee and cigarettes is the breakfast of champions. I like my stinky foods to have at least some stink. Of course my palate is developed enough to disect the ingredients/flavors in most dishes I try that are made from scratch anyway regardless of how "refined" or "subtle". So it's not like I'm a barbarian either. I suppose I derive eating pleasure from a larger range of flavors.

Edited March 1, 2005 by touaregsand (log)

[Busboy]

Just finished chowing down on some brandade made using a combination of Keller and the Zuni Cafe cookbook and whatever I felt like doing. I used some potato -- probably at least 2-1 cod to potato, I just added it until it looked right -- cream, garlic and olive oil. Panko strikes me as inauthentic, but the idea of frying up the cod balls remains in the back of my mind for another day. Because I couldn't find the metal blade to my food processor (and don't have a mortar) I used the plastic blade and the consistency came out pretty much perfect. Tasted pretty damn good, too, the first success in four tries.

I don't know why, but I get a craving for the stuff every now and again. Given its relative rarity here in DC, it's nice to know I can whip up a batch next time I get the urge.

[jayt90]

I want to freshen this thread, because I have seen a more expensive type of salt cod in my local fish market: Gaspe salt cod, flattened, white, $11/lb.

A Google check explains how this type of light salting, air drying, storing stacked, and finally sun bleached has a distinct flavour. I'll have to try it.

But, has anybody looked into this; whether various origins or types of salt cod taste different?

[athinaeos]

I cure a lot of fish in salt but not cod. My objective for doing that is to eat the cured fish without any further cooking. The length of the curing and the density of the mix in salt depends on the kind of fish and its volume. The major prerequisite for curing fish in salt is that it is very fresh. The flesh must be firm and bright.

Having said all that, I would agree with "busboy" who questioned the approach of preparing your own salted cod, only to de-salt it and cook it. It appears to me that the option of buying the stuff salted is much better in terms of price and quality.

In Spain, I have seen about 10 different cuts of salted but not dried cod in the market, ranging from 30 EUROS per kilo for the prime fillet to 4 EURO per kilo for the worst bits that are full of bones. This is to indicate the complexity of the process and the knowledge required to do it properly.

[LindaK]

Panko strikes me as inauthentic, but the idea of frying up the cod balls remains in the back of my mind for another day.

I grew up eating codfish cakes, more or less a brandade to which mom would add an egg or two, then shape into patties and fry up. I'm sure she served these out of economy, but I loved them because they were delicious.

[jayt90]

Panko strikes me as inauthentic, but the idea of frying up the cod balls remains in the back of my mind for another day.

I grew up eating codfish cakes, more or less a brandade to which mom would add an egg or two, then shape into patties and fry up. I'm sure she served these out of economy, but I loved them because they were delicious.

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James Beard was a fan, and had recipes in several books.

[Richard Kilgore]

I have started a fillet of cod curing in salt following Michael Ruhlman and Brian Polcyn's directions in Charcuterie. They suggest looking to Provencal, Spanish, Portugese and Catalan cookbooks and the cookbooks of Zuni Cafe and Bouchon for recipes.

Any from these sources that you have tried? Ruhlman and Polcyn also mention finding stacks of salt cod in Caribbean markets -- so any ideas about how it is used in island cuisine?

And how do you use salt cod in your part of the world? Any recipes that have been passed down in your family? Any recipes you have adapted or developed? Any you would be willing to share by adding them to RecipeGullet?

[Domestic Goddess]

In the Philippines, in my province of Cavite we have a special Lenten dish called "Baccalao". It is a stew of shredded salted cod fish, cabbage, chickpeas and potatoes (original recipe calls for sweet potatoes). It is a family recipe handed down from one genereration to another. Being a predominantly Catholic country, Fridays are always meatless days and this dish is a favorite for lunch fare.

I just asked my mother for this recipe a couple of days ago. Lemme type it up in the RecipeGullet. When I fix it tomorrow, I will post pics of it (if I'm not lazy, also the process).

[johnnyd]

In Portugal we used to have bolinhas de bacalhau every couple weeks which were basically fried fish cakes; minced onion, shredded potato and saltcod (soaked for a day first), all bound by a bit of egg and fried in oil. It had to be my favorite snack when I was a kid.

[BarbaraY]

I still love the All-American codfish cakes. Just salt cod that has been refreshed and poached and potatoes mashed together and pan fried. Eat it with cheap yellow mustard.

My grandma used to make this often.

Edited February 14, 2007 by BarbaraY (log)

[Busboy]

As I recall, the brandade recipe in Zuni is pretty good. When I make it, I tend to pull out all the cookbooks and pick and choose from the various recipes (I think Bouchon may haveone, as well) even though brandade is pretty simple -- I just don't make it often enough to remember the ratio of garlic to cod.

Anyway, two trickes I've picked up.

Boil down the cream until it's reduced by maybe a third, which allows you to get the creamy goodness into the cod while preserving the fish's texture.

Also, some recipes call for potato and some don't. I was at a restaurant in France (L'Oliviade in Remoulins, I believe) and they struck a good compromise by making the brandade without potatoes, but serving the cod in a flat disk shape on the plate, and covering the brandade with a layer of thinly sliced boiled potatoes (and a scattering of sun-dried tomatoes). That way, you avoid the feeling that you've used "Cod Helper" in the brandade, but you still get something strchy to play the fish/gralic flavor off of.

[Carrot Top]

I still love the All-American codfish cakes. Just salt cod that has been refreshed and poached and potatoes mashed together and pan fried. Eat it with cheap yellow mustard.

My grandma used to make this often.

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I do almost the same thing - it is something to make that is *so* unfussy. The epitome of home cooking at its best. The only differences are that I shape the mixture into rounds (heh, like Rebecca, I am avoiding certain words today ) - uh, spherical shapes, then roll in fine breadcrumbs before gently pan-frying in a mixture of butter and olive oil. I use lots of black pepper in the recipe and sometimes add some thyme and nutmeg.

Other "sauces" go well with this, also. Chutneys, salsas, mustard-mayo, herbed mayo, or even a quick cheese sauce.

Anyway, two trickes I've picked up. 

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I love that spelling. Gives the word a bit of class(e). I may decide to borrow it and always use it, if you'll allow.

[Busboy]

I still love the All-American codfish cakes. Just salt cod that has been refreshed and poached and potatoes mashed together and pan fried. Eat it with cheap yellow mustard.

My grandma used to make this often.

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Anyway, two trickes I've picked up. 

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I love that spelling. Gives the word a bit of class(e). I may decide to borrow it and always use it, if you'll allow.

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Well, I was of course reciting sonnets to my beloved in honor of Valentine's Day, so I guess a little but of that olde tyme spelling crept in. (If this be false and upon me proved...)

I'll have to try the cod cakes. Sounds simple, and one advantage of living in half-Hispanic neighborhood is that salt cod is cheap and plentiful.

[eipi10]

One of the best sandwiches I ever had was shredded salt cod with olive tapenade and, strangely, chick peas.

[The Hersch]

In Portugal we used to have bolinhas de bacalhau every couple weeks which were basically fried fish cakes; minced onion, shredded potato and saltcod (soaked for a day first), all bound by a bit of egg and fried in oil.  It had to be my favorite snack when I was a kid.

In my observation, bolinhos de bacalhau are made with cooked, mashed potatoes, not shredded. They also usually contain parsley and a little pimiento paste, an ingredient difficult to obtain in the US unless you make it. Form into sort of football shapes and deep-fry. It was definitely my favorite bar snack with a beer when I lived in Portugal.

[jackal10]

Brandade with truffles, or even a little truffle oil is excellent, and a traditional Christmas dish is the south of France.

There are many many ways of preparing salt cold, just as with fresh cod. Poached or baked with onions and tomatoes is good, as are West Indian dishes like salt cod with ackee (breadfruit).

[phaelon56]

Ruhlman and Polcyn also mention finding stacks of salt cod in Caribbean markets -- so any ideas about how it is used in island cuisine?

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I have eaten it on a number of occasions as prepared by friends in their homes or alternately as take-out dinners at two different local restaurants.

The styles I've tried are Puerto Rican, Dominican and Haitian - all are very similar. Onions, tomatoes, sofrito or some other herb mixture is included and it's sort of stewed in the pan in a braising fashion. Wish I could say more but I've only eaten it and wasn't there when it was being prepared.

I have seen it with garbanzo beans and also chunks of cooked potato included. My Haitian friend advises that the salt cod sold in a wooden box is typically far less bony and of better quality than the big pieces that are stacked up like piles of kindling.

I also noted that her preparation was far less salty than the others I tried and more to my liking for that reason (and I liked it very much). IIRC she soaks it three times, changing the water after each soak and doing a final rinse before cooking.

[qrn]

I have started a fillet of cod curing in salt following Michael Ruhlman and Brian

And how do you use salt cod in your part of the world? Any recipes that have been passed down in your family? Any recipes you have adapted or developed? Any you would be willing to share by adding them to RecipeGullet?

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No recipe (yet), but my grandmother , from the Tyrol, fixed a dish that was salt cod in a cream sauce that she served over wide noodles. It was cooked enough so the cod was flaked into small pieces. I have been going to make this for years and have not done it. Will go get some soon and give it a shot. Thanks for the reminder.

It was only about 50 years ago that I last had it, but I still remember how good it was..!

Bud

[johnnyd]

In Portugal we used to have bolinhas de bacalhau every couple weeks which were basically fried fish cakes; minced onion, shredded potato and saltcod (soaked for a day first), all bound by a bit of egg and fried in oil.  It had to be my favorite snack when I was a kid.

In my observation, bolinhos de bacalhau are made with cooked, mashed potatoes, not shredded. They also usually contain parsley and a little pimiento paste, an ingredient difficult to obtain in the US unless you make it. Form into sort of football shapes and deep-fry. It was definitely my favorite bar snack with a beer when I lived in Portugal.

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Ah, yes! parsley was definitely in there. I can't recall any hint of pimento type heat but we made them at home in the algarve, and I was in my teens so I don't remember. We never ordered them out therefore. Damn I miss those things! At the fishmonger today I saw those pine boxes with a 1/2lb of boned saltcod for US$7.99. Inspired by this thread, I might have to make these soon...

[The Hersch]

[Ah, yes! parsley was definitely in there.  I can't recall any hint of pimento type heat but we made them at home in the algarve, and I was in my teens so I don't remember.  We never ordered them out therefore.  Damn I miss those things!  At the fishmonger today I saw those pine boxes with a 1/2lb of boned saltcod for US$7.99.  Inspired by this thread, I might have to make these soon... 

The amount of pimiento paste used in these is quite small, not enough to make them taste hot, just to give them a little vibrancy. But you should definitely make them; they're really easy. Desalt the salt cod (soak in water, change every 8-12 hours, for a day or two). Poach the cod in water for a few minutes, keeping the water below the simmer. Shred or chop the fish, mix with sauteed chopped onion, chopped parsley, mashed potatoes, raw egg, salt & pepper, a bit of pimiento paste if you have some or a small dash of Tabasco or other hot pepper sauce. I find it easier to form the balls if you refrigerate this mixture for 45 minutes or an hour. Then shape using two spoons into football shapes and drop into hot, deep oil. Fry until golden brown, about 3 or 4 minutes, and drain on paper towels. Some recipes call for coating in bread crumbs before frying, but I think they're much better (and more typical) without that.

[ludja]

I still love the All-American codfish cakes. Just salt cod that has been refreshed and poached and potatoes mashed together and pan fried. Eat it with cheap yellow mustard.

My grandma used to make this often.

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Growing up in New England, one of Dad's favorite dishes is codfish cakes served with Boston baked beans. I'm trying to remember what we had with the codfish cakes; I think tartar sauce or lemon.

Another old New England dish is codfish hash served wth a fried egg on top and bacon on the side. This is good for breakfast or anytime of day.

Edited February 15, 2007 by ludja (log)

[ludja]

One of the best sandwiches I ever had was shredded salt cod with olive tapenade and, strangely, chick peas.

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The chickpeas don't sound so strange to me anymore. Recently, someone on eGullet mentioned that they sometimes make tunafish with them. I tried it the other day and I love it! For the tuna I used a mix of mayonnaise, lemon, salt, pepper and chickpeas. I ate it on toasted rye and really like both the taste and texture. Thanks for mentioning this sandwich with the salt cod and tapanade.

[LindaK]

love, love, love salt cod. I grew up with New England salt cod cakes as a staple, and could never get enoough of them.

My personal experience of cooking with it is mostly as brandade. But I've ordered it at Portuguese restaurants where it's been served as as part of a stew with onions and red peppers. Yumm.