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DIGEST: Los Angeles Times Food Section


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Note: Below you will find the collection of digests in chronological order. For the latest digest go to the end.

Los Angeles Times Food Section -- March 12, 2003

The Beer Sleuth -- Cover story by James Ricci looking for the best draft beers around the city and County. Includes a listing of 12 restaurants where "draft beer is a passion." From the San Fernando Valley to Long Beach, and Santa Monica to San Gabriel. Also includes a guide on what to do "Before you sip." Click here for the main story and links to the related story. http://www.latimes.com/features/food/la-fo...eadlines%2Dfood

Under a Prickly Skin -- The other cover story is Russ Parsons' homage to artichokes. Includes pictures and instruction on how to pare an artichoke, recipes for Simplest Fried Artichoke, Cream of Artichoke Soup & Parmesan Chips, & Marinated Artichoke. Further inside this week's section is another article about growing artichokes. Click here for the main story and to find links to the recipes and related stories http://www.latimes.com/features/food/la-fo...eadlines%2Dfood.

A Nouvelle Brogue -- As a lead-up to St. Patrick's Day, I suppose, this is Charles Perry's discussion of Irish food reinvented and the new book "The New Irish Table." Recipes for Turnips Anna Livia (a variation on Potatoes Anna) and Accordion Potatoes is included.

http://www.latimes.com/features/food/la-fo...eadlines%2Dfood

Matters of Taste is David Shaw's profile of wine maker Manfred Krankl who began down this path when we was general manager of Campanile (think Mark Peel & Nancy Silverton). http://www.latimes.com/features/food/la-fo...eadlines%2Dfood

Irene Virbila's restaurant review gives a Satisfactory (no-star) rating to the Spanish Kitchen on La Cienega. The best dishes are quesadilla with huitlacoche, cream of squash blossom soup, black bean and tortilla soup, vegetarian tamale, & barbecued pork in banana leaf.

http://www.latimes.com/features/food/cl-fo...eadlines%2Dfood

This weeks "Cookstuff" section profiles two artisan vinegars from the Rhone, Cucina hand cream (olive oil based), and the Ashley collection plates from Target.

http://www.latimes.com/features/food/la-fo...eadlines%2Dfood

This week's Wine of the Week is the 1999 Piaggia Carmignano 'Riserva." http://www.latimes.com/features/food/la-fo...eadlines%2Dfood

All this and more is available at http://www.LATimes.com/features/food/

Edited by Fat Guy (log)
So long and thanks for all the fish.
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I'm still learning how to do this so, in advance of next week's food section, I thought I'd attempt to do a better job of providing links to the articles. This one is from Thursday's LA Times. It is a profile of Leadville, Colorado. While not strictly about food, read down the article for interesting information on the challenges of boiling water and baking at 2 miles above sea level.

Jody

Breathless Way Up in Leadville

So long and thanks for all the fish.
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Jody, works flawlessly. (LA Times pop-up ads of course.) Thanks again.

"I've caught you Richardson, stuffing spit-backs in your vile maw. 'Let tomorrow's omelets go empty,' is that your fucking attitude?" -E. B. Farnum

"Behold, I teach you the ubermunch. The ubermunch is the meaning of the earth. Let your will say: the ubermunch shall be the meaning of the earth!" -Fritzy N.

"It's okay to like celery more than yogurt, but it's not okay to think that batter is yogurt."

Serving fine and fresh gratuitous comments since Oct 5 2001, 09:53 PM

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Leadville's a very nice town, with gorgeous views in every direction. I would imagine baking is a huge challenge.

The local tourist railroad (Leadville, Colorado & Southern) has learned to tweak its locomotives to perform in the very thin air. They cross Tennessee Pass at about 11,000 feet above sea level. We did it in a 4L Mustang and that car nearly didn't make it.

Apparently it's easier still to dictate the conversation and in effect, kill the conversation.

rancho gordo

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Los Angeles Times Food Section -- March 19, 2003

Well this is an industry town and this coming weekend is the biggest annual event for our local biz. In preparation for the Oscar's, this week's LA Times Food section has a few offerings.

The Hollywood Lunch is about place, not cuisine. It focuses on the places to see and be seen if you want to be or view Hollywood's power elite. The Grill in Beverly Hills comes in as the number 1 spot but several others are discussed. For a full listing, read Where the Industry Grazes, and so that you don't commit a faux pas when you make it be sure to read Here's How It's Done.

Continuing with the Oscar theme is the LA Times' guide for what to serve at your Oscar party. I realize that this is not as big of a deal in the rest of the world, but for many people in LA, Oscar Monday is akin to Super Bowl Sunday, complete with pools to pick the winners. If you need advice to ensure that you and your guests make it to the very last envelope, click on Winners for the Best Oscar Menu. Recipes provided are Cheesy Garlic Bread, Baked Pasta with Spinach and Sausage, and the one that I will definitely be trying soon Caffeinated Cookies.

Sharing the front page with the lead Oscar story is Scene Central, New York profiling Jean-Georges Vongerichten, Richard Meier-deisgned, Chinese-themed restaurant 66, including the name-dropping of the "A-list" types that you may see there. To try out one of the dishes for yourself, click here for Black Bass with Green Tea Tempura, Cold Sesame Noodles 66, and Kumquat Mojito.

Let Zin Tak You There relies on the prevalence of the zinfandel grape throughout California to discuss various wine growing areas of our state and explain how grapes from each place change the taste of the wine. Pinots, Cab and Chardonnay with a Sense of Place is the sidebar story to this article.

This week's Wine of the Week is the 2001 Domane Wachau Riesling Smaragd 'Singerriedel'.

Be sure to read Cookstuff to find out about elderflower syrup which is recommended for the sea bass recipe noted above. It also profiles a set of silver-plated, vegetable-themed hors'd'oeuvres picks.

This week's restaurant review, Italian Soul Food, Taken to Heart, gives two stars to Alto Palato on La Cienega. Recommended dishes are raw artichoke salad, black mussels and clams in white wine, prosciutto with burrata cheese, Margherita pizza, bombolotti con carciofi, elbow pasta in sausage ragu, chicken cacciatore, costoletta alla Milanese, grilled Tiger shrimp on rapini, and gelato.

A Brisket that's Better than Bubbies? profiles Mr. Pickles Deli on decidedly downscale Washington Boulevard. This strictly Kosher restaurant serves Israeli style food described as "European Jewish dishes with Middle Eastern touches." Of course, the brisket is highly recommended.

Matter's of Taste this week is David Shaw's Confessions of a Menu Snatcher where he discusses his habit of collecting menus when he has a truly memorable meal.

If I've missed anything, click here for this week's LA Times Food Section. This should be available until they post next week's section next Wednesday. Food related items often show up in the Sunday magazine section. If there is anything, I'll try and add it to this.

Have a great week everyone.

So long and thanks for all the fish.
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Okay, okay, it's Oscar Sunday not Monday. That's my goof. It used to be Monday so I guess I'm showing my age. For some reason, my computer isn't letting me edit the original post. Oh well.

So long and thanks for all the fish.
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Okay, okay, it's Oscar Sunday not Monday.  That's my goof.  It used to be Monday so I guess I'm showing my age.  For some reason, my computer isn't letting me edit the original post.  Oh well.

Thanks, JFL! My daughter lives in LA and I'll make sure she checks this out.

Great stuff.

Margaret McArthur

"Take it easy, but take it."

Studs Terkel

1912-2008

A sensational tennis blog from freakyfrites

margaretmcarthur.com

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I read Shaw's menu-pilfering article online (linked from saute wednesday) and had to smile. I've lifted many menus in the course of a review, and the big, bound, multi-page monsters are a nightmare. Like Shaw, I've slipped the printed pages out and handed the empty binder back to the server, but never been confronted about it.

My standard practice is to make Judith do it. She's got the purse, after all.

Jim

olive oil + salt

Real Good Food

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Los Angeles Times Food Section -- March 26, 2003

If you love cheese, or even if you only like cheese, the photos on the front page of this week's section are enough to make your mouth water. Cheese Course tells about those shops that are owned and operated by people who truly know, love and respect cheese in all its varieties. Eat. Read. Taste. lists the great cheese shops around town. From Milk to Morbier: A Guide is a guide to the cheese making process and how it effects the final product. What Goes with Cheese. Pairings that Work provide even more guidance.

Growing the Grapes of Peace profiles Golan Heights Winery, obviously located in the Golan Heights, and their chief wine maker Victor Schoenfeld who grew up in Southern California and learned his craft at UC Davis.

Sticking Up for Rhubarb discusses this spring time regular that can be challenging. Recipes provided are Strawberry-rhubarb stained glass cookies, marzipan tarts, and breakfast coffee cake.

When dining out means reaching out discusses the uptick in business at LA restaurants since the start of the war.

When tapas learn to speak another language profiles Rambutan Thai in the hip Silverlake area of town where you can "graze" on Thai tapas, as well as a regular Thai menu.

In the nick of time, a chef from Toulouse is this week's restaurant review. It gives two stars to Citronelle in Santa Barbara. Recommended dishes are porcupine shrimp, broiled eel carpaccio, brûlée foie gras, veal osso buco style, cote de boeuf, duck two ways, and French toast surprise.

Feeling like you're in a rut? Read Diary of a chef wannabe. Julia Powell decided to cook her way through the entire Julia Child Mastering the Art of French Cooking and is documenting it all, Bridget Jones style, in The Julie/Julia Project, a blog on the Salon web site.

It Only Tastes Expensive profiles Vineyard Express which specializes in wines under $10.

This week's wine of the week is 1996 Vietti Barolo Castiglione.

This week's Culinary SOS answers a reader's request for a lobster chowder recipe from a restaurant in New Brunswick, Canada.

Unfortunately, the on-line version doesn't seem to have a link to a great little article about some places to get yummy hand-made tortillas around town. There are a variety of styles including "freshly made flour tortillas, extra-thick Central American corn tortillas and platter-sized tortillas from Oaxaca.

Have a great week everybody.

So long and thanks for all the fish.
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Sunday Update.

This week's Sunday magazine is a travel issue. Since travel and food are often linked, there may be some articles here that interest e-gulleteers. I haven't really had time to go through it in detail myself but I'll list a few that appear more interesting.

Cruising the Turquoise Coast, by Amanda Jones, is about cruising Turkey's Mediterranean Coast.

Rub It In: Taste Treatments, by Craig Nakano, discusses places around the country where you can have culinary-inspired body scrubs, wraps and massages.

Ture Tables of Venice, by Marlena di Blasi, is about the Venice in Italy, not Southern California, and where to eat and drink like a true Venetian.

The Inn Thing: My Beautiful Bed & Breakfast, by Joel Grossman, profiles some former Californians who have decided to pursue the life of an innkeeper.

I'll check in next Wednesday or Thursday with this coming week's food section.

So long and thanks for all the fish.
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Los Angeles Times Food Section -- April 2, 2003

Yes, times are uncertain so what food do people crave most? Bread. In Staff of Life, by Charles Perry, find out about bread traditions around the world. You can also find a recipe for Brick oven-style bread and a timeline about the history of bread going back more than 10,000 years, Long ago and many bakeries before Wonder was born. Luckily, Charles Perry also tells us how to Turn your oven into a brick oven.

Thanks to Russ Parsons' Modern art in a bowl, we can all find out about beautifully, clear consomme which is apparently making a come back. Scroll down to the bottom of the article for a "how-to" with recipes for a shellfish consomme master recipe; consomme with shrimp, arugula and lemon zest; and consomme with scallop sashimi and peas.

Sharing the front page with the previous two articles is this week's restaurant review from S. Irene Virbila. Read There's nothing like it to find out about Sona which has been getting a lot of discussion elsewhere in e-gullet. This is a rave review with lines like "eating at Sona is one of the most exciting dining experiences in the city." Chefs David and Michelle Myers come in for high praise, even when they mess up, because they are willing to take risks and, most of the time, get it right. Sona gets 2 1/2 stars and, while many dishes are recommended individually, the six-course tasting menus (at $69 per person) that varies daily is listed as the best choice. For $99 per person you can try the nine-course "spontanee" menu.

La Parrilla in Boyle Heights is profiled by Barbara Hansen in A lush menu that's served once a year. A standard for traditional Mexican food, this time of year the restaurant serves "Mexican Lenten dishes that are not available the rest of the year."

Okay, so you know how to boil water but, once it's boiling do you really know how to poach an egg? Donna Deane thinks poached eggs are great and will tell you all about it in The magic of hot water. The article provides recipes for Spring herbed poached eggs, Poached eggs with tarragon cream, and Poached eggs with asparagus and prosciutto hollandaise.

In this week's Culinary SOS, Cindy Dorn tracks down Bittersweet memories by getting the recipe for chocolate chip cookies from Clementine in Century City.

In The other Cabernet, Rod Smith talks about the advances of Napa Valley vintners growing Cabernet Franc vines.

In Matters of Taste, David Shaw discusses people who buy wine based on some rating system rather than really discussing what's the best way to go.

This week's Wine of the Week is 2001 Two Hands Shiraz 'Angel's Share."

Have a great week everyone.

So long and thanks for all the fish.
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Los Angeles Times Food Section -- April 9, 2003

"For 40 years, her agnolotti have drawn travelers from around the world. Now, she shares her secrets." After you see the photos, you will want to find out more too. In Italy Beckons, S. Irene Virbila profiles Lidia Alciati from Piedmont who she deems the "undisputed queen of agnolotti." Click here for the link to her pasta recipe, assembly method and how-to photos. Click here for her filling recipe.

More from Piedmont is James Ricci's article Overcoming Barolo envy. Find out about the Nebbiolo grape and the "majestic Barolo and Barbaresco" wines that result.

You know you're really a grown-up when you take on responsibility for one of the classic traditional holiday meals. In Finally, home for the Seder, Valli Herman- Cohen is ready to do just that for Passover with recipes collected from family and friends over many years. Read through the article for recipes for Sephardic charoset, Passover potato kugel, Sweet & sour tzimmes (a chuck roast recipe), and Passover apricot bars.

Another sign of spring is the arrival of watercress. Read Regina Schrambling's The white gloves are off to learn more. Recipes include Watercress and Stilton soup, and Watercress and avocado salad with lemon-soy dressing.

Think you can't blame McDonald's for everything? Well maybe you can. In Matters of Taste, read David Shaw's The super-sized culture.

S. Irene Virbila appears again this week with her review of Halie in Pasadena. In Finally, a chef to match, she gives the restaurant two stars and claims that with Claude Beltran as chef the restaurant finally "seems to be finding its groove."

For a different type of restaurant, read Charles Perry's Counter Intelligence column where he profiles Senegalese restaurant Bistro 4040 in the Crenshaw district.

In Culinary SOS, Cindy Dorn reprints film producer Ismail Merchant's lemon lentil recipe.

In Cookstuff, find out about Belgian style Easter goodies made from Venezuelan chocolate, artistic seder plates, and a decorative cooling rack with a swirl pattern.

This week's Wine of the Weekis 1998 Alvear Fino 'En Rama' Mintilla Moriles, a Fino Sherry from Andalucia, Spain.

Have a great week everyone.

Jody

Edited by Fat Guy (log)
So long and thanks for all the fish.
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Jody and other LA Times watchers--a question: have you noticed that all writer bylines now appear on the front page of the food section website--along with the title and article into? Is this a recent improvement?

Steve Klc

Pastry chef-Restaurant Consultant

Oyamel : Zaytinya : Cafe Atlantico : Jaleo

chef@pastryarts.com

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Los Angeles Times Food Section -- April 16, 2003

Sprigs of Spring is from Regina Schrambling encouraging all of us to appreciate mint in all its versatility. Scroll down to the end of the article for recipes for Roast lamb with fresh mint sauce, Minted sweet pea soup, Chocolate mint ice cream, and Mint lemonade. To accompany this article, read Emily Green's Kitchen Gardener so you can grow your own.

Forget the lamb or ham for your easter dinner. Read Russ Parson's The California Cook and think about pork shoulder roast instead which he claims is "almost too good to be true." Recipes include Porchetta falsa, Green sauce for port, Roast pork with garlic and rosemary, and (of course) Roast pork shoulder master recipe.

The 2000 Bordeaux are beginning to arrive in the stores and, according to Corie Brown, it's a good thing. Read A heralded Bordeaux arrives.

In The biscuit, only better, Donna Deane will have you rethinking this classic. Keep the buttermilk but here are some twists. Recipes for Salt and pepper sandwich biscuits, Fresh herb pinwheel biscuits, and Strawberry biscuits.

Cindy Dorn's Culinary SOS provides a requested recipe for a six-layer coconut cake with lemon filling.

Valli Herman-Cohen is Gathering spring bouquets as she profiles all the goodies showing up at farmers markets throughout the southland with the arrival of spring.

With the church's blessing in David Shaw's Matters of Taste column, gives an overview of the wines being sold at the gift shop LA's new Cathedral of Our Lady of the Angels. (OK, I can't resist, some of the nicknames for the new cathedral are the "Taj Mahoney" and "Our Lady of the 101." Sorry everyone.)

S. Irene Virbila's review this week is for a restaurant that serves Seafood with an Atlantic attitude. Menemsha in Venice gets one star. Recommended dishes are Oysters and clams on the half shell, lobster roll, fried Ipswich clams, steamed littlenecks, twin steamed lobsters, oven steamed salmon, Yankee pot roast, linguine with clams, banana cream pie.

Like southern Bar-B-Q? Read Charles Perry's Counter Intelligence to find out about Big Mam's Rib Shack in Pasadena. Best dishes are Barbecued ribs, fried chicken, jambalaya, chicken Creole.

Barbara Hansen's Dish to Go column lets you know some of the best places around town for sticky buns.

If you're curious about pickeld eggs, find out more from Charles Perry.

This week's Wine of the Week is Champagne Egly-Ouriet Bland de Noir Grand Cru 'Cuvee Vielles Vignes.'

Hope everyone has a great Passover Seder, Easter brunch or dinner, or just a great week.

So long and thanks for all the fish.
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Los Angeles Times Food Section -- April 23, 2003

You may think that California's biggest culinary contribution to the world is Julia Child (remember, she grew up in Pasadena), Alice Waters, or BBQ Chicken Pizza. Well, according to Charles Perry, it's Salad. We love salad in all it's varieties. Maybe it's because not that long ago we were the only one's in the nation that could get really good fresh produce throughout the year. This article gives you the whole history and some recipes -- Jar (the restaurant) chopped salad, Dorothy Lamour's cantaloupe salad, and Salad Encino.

Chocolate is so last weekend, or so says Regina Schrambling who claims to have been born without the chocolate gene. But she does love citrus and especially lemon curd. Get recipes for Lemon curd, and Lemon curd pecan bars.

They have a file on you according to David Shaw. This article talks about OpenTable software that restaurants are using to keep track of reservations and track customer's likes, dislikes and peculiarities. A tool for better service or invasion of your privacy? You decide.

It seems we will continue to have articles about all the great produce coming back to us with the arrival of Spring. Russ Parsons loves sugar snap peas, artichokes and asparagus and tells you about it in From side dish to star attraction. Recipes for Asparagus and Ham frittata, Rice salad with ham, sugar snap peas and provolone, & Artichokes stuffed with ham and pine nuts.

In Cookbook Watch, Barbara Hansen profiles "at Blanchard's table" by Melinda and Robert Blanchard with gives you the "best of the beach via Vermont." The article includes a recipe for gingerbread with warm cinnamon bananas and rum.

His world in harmony profiles winemaker and musician Steve Edmunds who specializes in Rhone-style blends bottled under the Edmunds St. John label.

Cuba through Hollywood's lens is S. Irene Virbila's review of Paladar Bistro Cubano. She gives it two stars. Recommended dishes are Empanadas, rock shrimp sofrito, grilled octopus, marinated hearts of palm, ham and shredded pork sandwich, skirt steak, braised oxtail, spicy frites.

Read Linda Burum's Delights of the ancient Persian table to find out about Darban Grill and Bar in Tarzana. Best dishes are : Albalu polo, sabzi polo, fesenjan, kashk-o-bademjan, faludeh.

This week's Wine of the Week is 2001 W.H. Smith Wines Pinot Noir 'Hellenthal Vineyard'.

In Restaurant Journal, Valli Herman-Cohen discusses restaurants being named for the chef's kids, and that Patina Group restaurants have now dropped their corkage fee and are allowing children 12 and younger to dine for free.

The Hot List will let you know about best selling cook books.

Edited by Fat Guy (log)
So long and thanks for all the fish.
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Los Angeles Times Food Section -- May 7, 2003

Last week got away from me and I couldn't post the digest of the food section. Sorry.

This week Russ Parsons gets fresh with a great story about more than the plethora of farmers markets throughout the southland. He also discusses how chefs shop, create dishes and are influenced by their finds at the markets and how the farmers are influenced by the interest of the chefs. Shopping by the season is your guide to when and where for the markets. In Chef's favorites, find out which farmers are the favorites of LA top chefs Josiah Citrin, Joe Miller, Suzanne Goin, Mark Peel, Scooter Kanfer, T. Nicholas Peter and Bruce Marder. You can also get recipes for Grilled asparagus & polenta and Pistachio and mint goat cheese tart. The print edition also has a recipe for Fava bean soup but, alas, no link that I could find.

Read David Shaw's Like Mother Like Son to find out about the rather amazing meal that his 13-year old son prepared for his mother's birthday! Recipes his son used include Garlic-caper grilled pork chops with Sicilian sauce, Asparagus salad with beets, new potatoes and mustard vinaigrette, and for dessert Rich choloclate-almond cake. Wow, I'd love my son to be able to cook like that. It could happen.

If you think your cocktails are getting expensive, you'd be right according to Valli Herman-Cohen in Gulp! Just look at that tab. Find instructions to make your own Key lime pie martini, The Hpnotiq, and Blue Avalon.

Canneles, which have been the topic of discussion on the pastry & baking page, are discussed as "the Crowns of the Counter" by Betty L. Baboujon. Find a recipe and an evaluation of different types of cannelle pans and where to get them.

For this week's review, S. Irene Virbila profiles EM on Beverly Boulevard saying "it simply gives diners a warm welcome and serves up American food with flair." She gives it 2 stars. Recommended dishes are Heirloom bean soup, crab and lobster cake, steamed mussels with lentils and curried leeks, wild Irish salmon, Cornish game hen, braised beef short ribs, sauteed pea tendrils, brown butter plum tart, Boston cream cake, organic strawberry shortcake.

In Counter Intelligence, Linda Burum profiles Top Thai in Reseda that specializes in cuisine from the mountainous north of Thailand. Best dishes are Larb thod, khow soy, kang hung-lay, nam prik noom, tum kha-noon.

The Wine of the Week is 2001 Altavilla della Corte.

So long and thanks for all the fish.
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Los Angeles Times Food Section -- May 14, 2003

Well we all know that Southern California has a reputation for hedonism. According to Emily Green, "New York might have better appetizers and San Francisco better main courses, but no city beats Los Angeles for dessert." Find out more in Hedonism Lives. The only problem with this otherwise terrific article is that it doesn't give enough of the recipes for all the great treats it mentions. You can find recipes for Water Grill Cheesecake, Jelly doughnuts, Strawberry-rhubarb jam, and Pink peppercorn meringues. You can also find out what the pros do in Tips: The secrets of pastry chefs.

Mexican wine? Well believe it. According to Barbara Hansen in The next wine country? It's Baja. The wine tour tells you where to stop on your visit, and you can also find out Where to buy Baja wines locally.

Speaking of the Water Grill (above), they do way more than cheesecake. According to S. Irene Virbila, "Chef Michael Cimarusti is obsessed with seafood and his cooking shows it off splendidly." In Neptune, meet your match, she gives the restaurant 3 1/2 stars and recommends the following dishes: Seafood platter, oysters, white clam chowder, celery root soup, hand-cut tuna tartare, foie gras au torchon, crab cakes, Alaskan halibut, loup de mer, John Dory with Meyer lemon syrup, vanilla crème fraîche cheesecake, strawberry napoleon.

In Culinary SOS, Cindy Dorn comes to the rescue with a recipe for Watercress salad with toasted coriander vinaigrette.

In Cookbook watch, Charles Perry profiles the newly published history with recipes of San Francisco's legendary Tadich Grill. Find recipes for Oysters Kirkpatrick and Prawn saute Chardonnay with fresh mushrooms.

The wine may be dry, but lists don't have to be. In his Matters of Taste column, David Shaw says, "Choosing and ordering should be fun. Why have only a few restaurants caught on?"

According to Jennifer Lowe Unplug the juicer, then squeeze your biceps. The kind of juicer you have will determine how much juice you actually get, and how hard you have to work. They are rated here.

Instead of wine, this week we get a Cider of the week. It's 2001 Poiré Authentique, 2001 Sydre Doux and according to S. Irene Virbila, "Eric Bordelet is raising cider to a new level at his estate 120 miles west of Paris."

She also talks about Hans Rockenwagner's new (to him), Ferrari-red, 500 pound, 70+ year old meat slicer in A slice of life at the Brasserie.

So long and thanks for all the fish.
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Los Angeles Times Food Section -- May 21, 2003

With Memorial Day upon us, the LA Times decided to devote this week's food section to grilling.

The main article from Russ Parsons, A new blaze of glory, discusses the "boutique-ing" of beef. Find out about specialty beef. Parsons' accompanying article focuses on grass fed beef. And, of course, find out the Prime places to buy your beef.

One of the best treats about southern California is combining the wonders of grilling with the beauty of the beach. Find out the best locations in A barbecue seasoned with scenery by Corie Brown.

Of course, you want to have all the right gadgets. Read Cookstuff, to find out about great tongs, disposable grill wipes, and grill baskets.

We're not done yet. Regina Schrambling wants us to Grab a pan, and bring the kitchen outdoors. As more and more grills are being sold with side burners, Regina points out that these can be used for more than just warming sauces or melting butter. She provides recipes and instructions for Wild mushroom fricassee, Baby crab cakes, Creamy grits, and Hot fudge sauce.

A good barbecue meal, needs a good beer. According to James Ricci, "the Bavarian-born wheat beer called hefeweizen is foamy, fruity and just right with char and spice." Read about it in Made for hot coals and summer days.

Charles Perry instructs us to Invite rosemary and anise to your next outdoor feast. Besides adding flavor with wood smoke, aromatics can also be used including rosemary, anise, cinnamon, cloves, and dried orange or tangerine peel.

Have some curry with a twist in One hot curry, from one cool summer fruit by Charles Perry. Click here for the recipe for Watermelon curry (matira).

Charles Perry also reviews Waldy Malouf's book High Heat in Even the cake bears the mark of the grill. Find recipes for Chicken breasts with grainy mustard, almonds and thyme; and Lamb chops with black olives and lemon.

Create your own Korean barbecue at home in Short ribs, Korean style by Corie Brown.

This week, S. Irene Virbila reviews Grace on Beverly Boulevard in A nighttime drama that starts at the door. She gives the restaurant 2 stars claiming "if you want to be in on the scene and have a decent dinner at the same time, Grace is the new must-have address." Recommended dishes are Skate with black Tuscan kale and fried capers, risotto with pumpkin and sea urchin, goat cheese salad, Dungeness crab salad, bacon-wrapped saddle of rabbit, jelly doughnuts, rhubarb cobbler.

For a different type of experience find out about Honduran food in Barbara Hansen's review of Antojitos Bibi located near MacArthur Park (take the Red Line). Recommended dishes are Enchiladas catrachas, tajadas de guineo verde con pollo frito, sopa de caracol, pastelitos, montuca.

In Matters of Taste, David Shaw says you should wear an apron if you are driving and eating at the same time.

The Wine of the Week is 2000 Nalle Dry Creek Valley Zinfandel. S. Irene Virbila claims that it goes great with grilled meats. Imagine that.

Happy grilling everyone.

So long and thanks for all the fish.
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Los Angeles Times Food Section -- May 28, 2003

Okay, so I'm running late this week and missed getting this in time to make it into Jinmyo's Weekend Update. My apologies to all.

Regina Schrambling starts off this week with her column Fragile Beauty, an homage to squash blossoms that "taste good, in a dozen or more ways." Recipes include Squash blossoms baked with Taleggio and almonds, Crab-stuffed squash blossoms, Fried squash blossoms, and Linguine with tuna and squash blossoms.

If you are frying squash blossoms or anything else, the Test Kitchen Notebook claims that chickpea flour is The secret to deep-fried success.

Mario Batali is making waves with his new Pan Pizza at Otto, his NYC pizzeria. It is apparently delicious and easy as, well, pie. Here is the recipe.

Valli Herman-Cohen struggles to Make it organic, Mom when it's her turn to provide snack for her kid's preschool. The article includes a recipe for bagel chips. More about the bounty of the season in her other column, "Spring Splendor All Around." Unfortunately, the online edition doesn't seem to provide a link to the article or the accompanying recipes for Cherry and chocolate turnovers, or Wilted dandelion greens with goat cheese and pine nuts.

For this week's review, S. Irene Virbila profiles Cafe Atlantic. This cuban restaurant is around the corner from and more casual than its sister, Xiomara, in Pasadena. She gives the restaurant one star and recommends the Black bean soup, ajiaco, ensalada mista, Spanish tortilla, Cuban-style tamale, papas rellenas, fried rice picadillo, arroz con pollo, Cuban flan and pudin diplomático.

Charles Perry likes Tito's Market in El Monte. It's an Argentine deli with delicious spicy sandwiches.

The other wine degree, by James Ricci, profiles the program at Cal State Fresno. Not as famous as the program at UC Davis, this is "the only University enology program with its own commercial winery."

In Culinary SOS, Cindy Dorn responds to a request for California Fat's seafood stir fry.

The Wine of the Week is 2000 La Croix de Beaucaillou, reviewed by S. Irene Virbila.

So long and thanks for all the fish.
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Thanks for the update. I don't know if I've been asleep or what. It seems every time I'm in the streets I see another Argentine eatery. Is inflation/bankruptcy driving them all to our town?

I'm hollywood and I approve this message.

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Los Angeles Times Food Section -- June 4, 2003

Can you even get soft-shell crab in Southern California, or anywhere on the Pacific? Oh well. Russ Parsons claims that these once-a-year treats are A gift from the sea. I agree. Find recipes for Crisp-fried soft-shell crabs, Wilted parsley, and Homemade sauce tartare. Photos accompanying the articles show you how to ensure a crisp crust.

S. Irene Virbila's review this week, We'll always have Paris -- at L'Orangerie, celebrates that restaurant's 25th anniversary -- truly "a remarkable run given L.A.'s fickle restaurant scene." In that quarter century, it "has been through ups and down, but its classic setting is so perfectly rendered, it seduces visitors again and again." She gives the place two-and-a-half stars and recommends Egg in the shell with caviar, zucchini flower stuffed with spring vegetables, Maine lobster en cocotte, wild turbot, roast pigeon, apple tart "a la minute," chocolate soufflé.

Your wallet may be a little light after L'Orangerie. Not to worry however. In search of late night comfort food? For Barbara Hansen, it's The serious taco, cherished all over L.A. And, mind you, these are the real deal, not the Americanized stuff many people think are real, and these are not expensive in the least. Line up and dig in: Here's where to go lists 18 places around town where you can eat well for a little dough. There is also a recipe for Carne al pastor.

Barbara Hansen also can't live without cornbread. Find out more in Going for the golden. Find recipes for Clementine's sunshine corn cakes, Brother's jalapeno corn bread, and Newsroom Cafe's blue corn bread.

One of the best things about L. A. is the great variety of cuisines available. If you want to try Thai, Barbara Hansen recommends Erawan in her article, They've got good taste and it shows. Best dishes are Meang kum, summer rolls, steamed sea bass, choo chee prawns, seafood curry udon.

In Matter's of Taste, Davis Shaw discusses the list recently published in the trade magazine Restaurant of the world's top 50 restaurants. David says it's A surprising top 50, but look who's counting. Is this being discussed somewhere else on e-Gullet?

Cindy Dorn comes to the rescue in Culinary SOS with a recipe for Justice Lillie's chocolate mousse pie.

Rod Smith says the Flowers Estate is Not resting on its laurels in this profile of the winery on the Sonoma coast.

This week's Wine of the Week is 2000 Remelluri Rioja, discussed by S. Irene Virbila.

Find out where to Pick cherries by the bucket.

In the June 5th LA Times, not the June 4 Food Section, S. Irene Virbila discusses the flourishing restaurant scene in San Luis Obispo along the Central Coast in A booming small town that has big-city tastes.

No link but in "Cookstuff," they profile a professional watermelon knife, an herb garden kit, and an egg slicer-wedger. It should come up if you link to the print edition.

Edited by Fat Guy (log)
So long and thanks for all the fish.
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