I use a Rick Moonen recipe (formerly of Oceana, and now at rm) that is astoundingly delicious (but involved): Rick Moonen's Salmon Tartare With Smoked Salmon and American Caviar 1 egg yolk 1 teaspoon Dijon mustard 1/2 tablespoon each of fresh lemon and lime juice 1 tablespoon fish sauce (available in Asian or specialty food markets) 2 1/2 tablespoons diced shallot 2 1/2 tablespoons chopped capers 1 teaspoon Tabasco sauce 1/4 teaspoon white pepper 1/2 cup vegetable oil 12 ounces raw, very fresh salmon (preferably from the belly), skinned and in large dice 3 tablespoons chopped chives 3 tablespoons chopped parsley 1 teaspoon fresh dill 4 slices smoked salmon, sliced into 1-inch wide ribbons Paddlefish roe (or other American caviar), for garnish White bread for toast, crust removed and sliced into 4 triangles 4 ounces pea shoots, mâche or watercress, tossed with lemon juice (1/4 lemon), 1 tablespoon olive oil, salt and pepper Whip the egg yolk, mustard, lemon and lime juice, fish sauce, shallot, capers, Tabasco and white pepper together. Add the vegetable oil drop by drop at first, whisking the mixture vigorously until the oil begins to incorporate into the mixture. Then, pour the oil in a slow and steady stream, while constantly whisking until sauce emulsifies. Taste for seasoning, and add more citrus, fish sauce or pepper (if needed). Spoon half of the sauce into a bowl and add the diced salmon, folding until it is well-mixed. Add enough additional sauce to just coat the salmon. Fold in the fresh herbs. Place a ring mold of the desired portion size (you can use a tuna can with its top and bottom removed) into the center of a serving plate. Fill the mold to capacity, pat down with the base of a spoon, and then gently remove the mold. You should have a perfectly round disk of tartare to wrap with smoked salmon. Wrap one slice of smoked salmon around the outside of the tartare, overlapping the ends to seal, and top the presentation with a dollop of caviar, shaped like a quenelle (egg-shaped). Serve with an ounce or so of the greens (present three little piles around the tartare) and 4 toast points per person. Serves 4.