Market Watch: Uzes Saturday Market

[Vinotas]

I was in the Rhone Valley last week for 3 days, travelling around, wine-tasting and pretty much relaxing after the lunacy that was ViniSud.

But I made a point to visit the small town of Uzes to see the legendary market, and wow was it amazing. Artisans, cheesemongers, farmers, soapmakers, everything was fresh and from the area. Why can't we get something like this in NYC? In any case, HERE are some pictures of the Saturday market. Feel free to drool.

Cheers!

[cigalechanta]

That was one of my favorite markets also. Very few have as much pottery so that you can do all your shopping at this one market.

[Vinotas]

That was one of my favorite markets also. Very few have as much pottery so that you can do all your shopping at this one market.

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Indeed, I was surprised how comprehensive it was. It wasn't just food (though of course that was my main focus), it was everything. That said, I only bought food: several pigs worth of saucissons secs to bring home to the US.

[Dave Hatfield]

I think this is a great topic. I and I think most people coming to France find the markets one of the nicest features of the country.

Living here we go to a number of the local markets. Its a rare week that we don't go to at least one. Vinotas has inspired me so I will start taking pictures as we go to market and start posting the results.

I have seen a number of posts about Parisian markets, but I don't recall any about regional/local markets. (other than Lucy's about her beloved Lyonaise markets)

If people would like to start posting about their market experiences, and with John & Felice's permission, I'll start an interactive market map of France (with a second Paris only map) and link all of the posts to it.

Let me know what you think.

[Ptipois]

The reason for the absence of definite information about provincial markets in France is probably that there are wonderful markets, big and small, all over the country and it would not make much sense to try to list them. If you are serious about your food shopping and know how to rely on your senses of smell, sight, and touch, I cannot think of a place where you won't find not only ample reason to be happy, but also plenty of unexpected terroir gems.

Every large town has at least one famous food market, and those can be listed.

In Rennes, the marché des Lices is known all over France. On weekend mornings, people take the 2-hour TGV ride with their shopping carts back and forth just for that market.

In Rouen there is the magnificent Clos-Saint-Marc market, which also doubles as a flea market.

In Nice the beautiful Cours Saleya market...

All-week-round covered markets should not be forgotten, they offer high quality stuff. I like the Halle Saint-Michel in Brest and the Sète covered market.

There are many examples and I am sure that some eGulleters will add more to this thread.

Edited February 28, 2008 by Ptipois (log)

[Dave Hatfield]

The reason for the absence of definite information about provincial markets in France is probably that there are wonderful markets, big and small, all over the country and it would not make much sense to try to list them. If you are serious about your food shopping and know how to rely on your senses of smell, sight, and touch, I cannot think of a place where you won't find not only ample reason to be happy, but also plenty of unexpected terroir gems.

Every large town has at least one famous food market, and those can be listed.

In Rennes, the marché des Lices is known all over France. On weekend mornings, people take the 2-hour TGV ride with their shopping carts back and forth just for that market.

In Rouen there is the magnificent Clos-Saint-Marc market, which also doubles as a flea market.

In Nice the beautiful Cours Saleya market...

All-week-round covered markets should not be forgotten, they offer high quality stuff. I like the Halle Saint-Michel in Brest and the Sète covered market.

There are many examples and I am sure that some eGulleters will add more to this thread.

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I absolutely agree with you. There are wonderful markets all around the country.

The idea of listing them with links on a map is to help visitors who don't always know where they are and to help residents, such as Linda & I, who don't know the best markets outside of our own area.

I can for example point to markets at: Villefranche de Rouergue, Caussade, Limogne en Quercy, Cahors, Montauban, St Antonin Noble Val, Albi and Toulouse; all of which are close us, but if we were to go over to the Charante Maritime we wouldn't know exactly where to go for the best markets.

Think of it as a little help for our friends.

edited to correct typo.

Edited February 28, 2008 by Dave Hatfield (log)

[Vinotas]

I would add that the Saturday market in Beaune is to die for, I have a pile of pictures somewhere around here that I'll link to when I have a chance. Strolling through these gives one a quick idea of what the local specialties are and what the regions offer.

I do agree that mapping them out might be tough as there are so many of them. Perhaps just pointing to the major ones in each region (ie Beaune in Burgundy, Uzes in the Southern Rhone, etc...) might be a better idea?

Cheers!

PS: Opened one of the saucissons last night and it was delicious!

[bushey]

This is essentially the same market we visited on a Sunday in L'Isle Sur Sorgue. We loved it! The market wound in and around the little side streets, so it felt like everywhere we turned was a new surprise.

My greatest regret was not having measured our tables for linens. Even though we'd read lots of recommendations to do just that, I had the (mistaken) assumption that all of the linens would be brightly colored and patterned. instead, we found a fabulous vendor of natural linens that were just gorgeous.

Oh, well. Just another reason to go back.

[Dave Hatfield]

I do agree that mapping them out might be tough as there are so many of them.  Perhaps just pointing to the major ones in each region (ie Beaune in Burgundy, Uzes in the Southern Rhone, etc...) might be a better idea?

Cheers! 

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You're right that there are lot. Mapping's not a big deal given the software now available.

The problem selecting major ones is determining which are "the" major ones. I think we all have our favorites. Everybody has on opinion.

I'll give it a go & see what happens.

[Katie Meadow]

When we were in Provence in October we went to the daily market in Aix and then the next day, the Saturday market, which is of course much bigger and includes many winding streets organized by subject: antiques, clothing, scarves, etc. That was a beautiful food market, set in a lovely square where you can have cafe au lait and watch the show. I cook at home all the time, so a vacation for me means eating out. But when I got to that market what did I want more than anything? A kitchen. We bought twice as much fruit, cheese etc as we able to consume in picnics during the next couple of days. Believe me, I ate a dangerous amount of figs, but they were the most astounding figs I have ever eaten.

When we planned our trip (sadly it was only a week in provence) I checked a website called Provence-beyond. The link is faulty, so I suggest googling "Provence-beyond markets." The second site of the search will yield a wonderful catalogue of markets sorted as you like, either by every conceivable little town or by day.

Our only snafu was l"isle-sur-la-sorgue. We planned to stay the night there before the weekday market, but discovered that our hotel was not right in town. The parking situation in that town is a bigger nightmare than NY. Even on a weekday afternoon when there was no market we could find absolutely nowhere to park! If you don't stay right in town you will never be able to go to either of the markets there. The big antques market on the weekend sounds amazing. Some other lifetime.

[Dave Hatfield]

Ok, map started.

Only two entry's so far. As you can see its nice to have both location & day or days of the week. Pictures or a write up of special features are nice as well.

Here's thelink to the map.

Enjoy.

Edited February 28, 2008 by Dave Hatfield (log)

[Ptipois]

The idea of listing them with links on a map is to help visitors who don't always know where they are and to help residents, such as Linda & I, who don't know the best markets outside of our own area.

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I was not thinking of your map, which I think is an excellent idea. I only meant that an absolute listing of interesting markets in France would be an impossible task. That does not mean that the most remarkable markets cannot be listed and put on a map. One has to focus on the exceptional, knowing that the point is not to mention every village or small town market that seems appealing, since most of them, if not all of them, are.

[Vinotas]

Ok, map started.

Only two entry's so far. As you can see its nice to have both location & day or days of the week. Pictures or a write up of special features are nice as well.

Here's  thelink to the map.

Enjoy.

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I'd suggest Beaune for the Wednesday and Saturday markets, especially the latter. I will link to the pics ASAP and you will see what I mean.

[John Talbott]

If people would like to start posting about their market experiences, and with John & Felice's permission, I'll start an interactive market map of France (with a second Paris only map) and link all of the posts to it.

Let me know what you think.

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Sounds good to me.

John

Edited February 28, 2008 by John Talbott (log)

[Busboy]

I think that Pti is right -- there are too many to map. And very different. Uzes is compact and mostly food, Isle-sur-la-Sorgue is immense and has everything from African music CDs to sensible underwear, in addition to antiques and food...

But, long as you're making a list, don't forget the Wednesday local/biologique market in Uzes, and I have heard Vaison la Romain (Tuesdays) is Patricia Wells' favorite in all of France -- and quite cool market it is -- and Orange (Thursday) is not without it's charms.

Markets in Languedoc.

Larger Markets in Provence.

[Margaret Pilgrim]

....If you are serious about your food shopping and know how to rely on your senses of smell, sight, and touch, I cannot think of a place where you won't find not only ample reason to be happy, but also plenty of unexpected terroir gems....

Stumbling on a robust market in unlikely Allemagne-en-Provence at lunchtime, I was delighted to find a roaster with more than the usual assortment of meats for sale in picnic size portions. I pointed to the morsels I wanted, and the seller announced, "You are American!" I asked him how he knew. "The English won't eat bunnies," he answered, and with a huge smile handed me my delicious and memorable lunch.

[Katie Meadow]

I really appreciate the concept of the maps, but truthfully, when I was planning my trip, I found them hard to decipher. The pushpins, balloons, or in this case baskets, obscure detail and once you stick on a lot of them the organizational benefits start to decline. But then, that could just be me.

What if you had regional maps and provided a master list of towns w/their market dates that was organized by those regions? If most people are like me, and if they plan on having a car, they will already have gotten a good road map to help them plan; no map on line that I could find came come close to that kind of detail.

The Provence-beyond list I mentioned above seems really comprehensive; I am guessing there are other regional market lists available. That way anyone planning a "market" trip would have every possible town/day easily accessible for the region they will be visiting. Then there could be some way to plug in recommendations, comments etc on any given markets, so when you click on a town up comes whatever reviews have been submitted. Am I dreaming?

[John Talbott]

I have heard Vaison la Romain (Tuesdays) is Patricia Wells' favorite in all of France -- and quite cool market it is -- and Orange (Thursday) is not without it's charms.

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Hummm, well, when we were touring the Seguret market last summer with our wonderful polyglot host, Ms. Wells was clearly leading her market group through it.

Speaking of which, Dave, if memory serves me, Ms Wells took Calvin Trillin, of "Let's Eat" and other fame, through her fave, the Poncelet market, in that tiny town north of you. Are you going to include markets in "our" city too?

[Dave Hatfield]

Glad to see that there is interest in a Markets Map.

I don't know how to determine which are the 'best' markets or those 'worthy' of inclusion on the map. So, I'll just add all that get posted to the map. My assumption being that if someone takes the trouble to write up a market & post then it must be good enough for them.

Vinotas - I'll look for the pictures & write up.

Busboy - Like the lists. Have put a link to them (a ? symbol) in the Ocean near their areas. Think that will work.

Katie - Yes, think you need to zoom in on the map to de-clutter. To do this hold down the LEFT mouse button until the cursor turns into a little hand. Keep holding it down & move the area of interest to the center of the map. Let go & move the cursor to the 'scale' on the LEFT of the map. Move Up the scale to zoom in until you get the view you want. You may have to go back & reposition as you zoom in.

John - Yes, I'll do Paris. It would be nice, however, if you could do one of your brilliant searches to bring all the previous Market posts together.

Note that I don't plan on a second map for Paris. Zooming in will be necessary. See the example.

Remember that I need name & day plus the write up. For Paris I think we need the street name as well.

Have fun.