Chocolate Course

[Kerry Beal]

Stef was adamant that colours for airbrushing are not simply a mixture of the desired colour and cocoa butter.  His yellow contains yellow dye, some red dye, milk chocolate and cocoa butter.  This gives an excellent yellow.  Red contains red, a bit of blue, dark chocolate and cocoa butter.  He uses the immersion blender to combine the mixture.  The mixture is allowed to sit in the warming cupboard for 24 hours before use.  A bucket of cocoa butter is kept in the 40º C warming cupboard so there is always melted cocoa butter when required. 

How does this compare with the premixed colors from Chef-Rubber?

If it's an improvement, do you have formulas for improving various colors?

←

I haven't used the premixed colours myself, I've always mixed my own. I think his mixtures make more complex colours.

The yellow and red were the only two colours we discussed.

[Kerry Beal]

A small chocolate showpiece.

Stef put together the parts for the stand and made the rock for this showpiece before we arrived so we didn't get the opportunity to see how those parts were made.

Half filling some demispheres with chocolate to form the base of one of the flowers.

As for the decorations for the dessert, a bit of chocolate is piped in strips, a second piece of acetate is applied and the two pulled apart from the center out.

Rolling up the flower petals to give them a curve. Notice the other petals being made, a knife blade is dipped in the tempered chocolate and pressed down on the acetate. They were sprinkled with a bit of sugar while still damp.

The flower bases heated on the bottom on a warm cookie sheet to give them a flat surface.

Similar sized leaf shapes are chosen and applied to some tempered chocolate that has been piped on the top of the base.

A waterlily like flower is produced after building up the layers of petals.

Making a base for the showpiece.

Airbrushing the flowers, using cold spray to speed up the drying process.

At this point I suggested they make use of the spraybooth that was in the room, more eyerolling ensued and before long I was coughing so badly I had to leave the room. I stood outside the glass doors, coughing up a lung, wishing I'd brought an inhaler. I guess the spray booth's purpose is simply to store things.

To compose this flower a blob of tempered chocolate is put into a plastic petrie dish, and the curved petals added from the bottom layer up.

Stef piping some shapes into sugar.

A rock had been molded in sugar and Stef poured out some powdered colours to dab on the rock to colour it. It looked wonderfully like lichen for a while, but then all the colours got mixed and it just ended up a rusty brown.

Applying the flower to the rock.

A picture of all the stuff we produced in the 3 days.

[John DePaula]

Wow, it sounds like they were kinda nasty to you, Kerry. Don't know what's up with that... The spray booth was a good suggestion.

[ejw50]

Wow, it sounds like they were kinda nasty to you, Kerry.  Don't know what's up with that...  The spray booth was a good suggestion.

←

Yeah I agree. Seems they were always rolling their eyes at something or the other.

Some more questions (if you don't mind)

1. On chocolate making and speed. How fast are the "professionals" through each step per mold? Creating shells, piping, backing? I always wonder if I am too slow, especially after seeing Norman Love on Youtube.

2. On the cake height, do you know how his molding cake ring was? The reason I ask is Pierre Herme's book's fruit cakes seem to have 2 layers of cake, cream, some fruit, all in "4.5 cm high rings". That seems a lot for 4.5 cm, but maybe I am missing something.

[Beth Wilson]

What a wonder of information & pictures! Thanks for sharing your experience with us.

[Kerry Beal]

Wow, it sounds like they were kinda nasty to you, Kerry.  Don't know what's up with that...  The spray booth was a good suggestion.

←

Yeah I agree. Seems they were always rolling their eyes at something or the other.

Some more questions (if you don't mind)

1. On chocolate making and speed. How fast are the "professionals" through each step per mold? Creating shells, piping, backing? I always wonder if I am too slow, especially after seeing Norman Love on Youtube.

2. On the cake height, do you know how his molding cake ring was? The reason I ask is Pierre Herme's book's fruit cakes seem to have 2 layers of cake, cream, some fruit, all in "4.5 cm high rings". That seems a lot for 4.5 cm, but maybe I am missing something.

←

They work pretty fast (and amazingly clean - their whites are still white at the end of the day). The thing is you need to work fast enough that the chocolate isn't able to start setting up before you finish a step. That way while making shells you will be able to get enough excess chocolate out to get the thin shell you want. And on backing off - the chocolate will still be liquid so that after scraping, the remaining chocolate will settle and give a smooth back.

The rings used were likely 4.5 cm as well. The layers of passionfruit cream, pineapple compote and dacquoise were about 1/2 inch to 3/4 of an inch, leaving the remainder to be taken up by the mousse.

[Kerry Beal]

We took a couple of course related side trips while in Belgium. I had told JC that I wanted to check out a mold place if possible while there so on Tuesday evening we piled into 2 vans and headed off to Antwerp to Chocolate World. They knew we were coming so kept the store open after hours.

I was like a kid in a candy store. I personally spent enough to make it worth their while to stay open. I bought 23 used figural molds - the biggest a huge cow with a ribbon around her neck. I bought at least half a dozen used or reduced plate molds - and the most expensive item - a set of Magyfleur brass forms that you freeze and then dip in chocolate to make leaves and flowers. I picked up a few small odds and ends as well, but didn't buy Fine Chocolates 2 as I knew it should be available from Chocolat-chocolat soon enough. I had wanted a Konigberg cutter for marzipan and when I last priced it it was already pretty expensive. I drew the line at 615 Euro.

The Konigberg cutter - brought home just the picture.

Thursday, after the course was complete, we headed to Bruge to see the chocolate museum that Mr van Belle, who owns Belcolade, opened.

Our first stop - a little shop to buy some saucisson sec to have with bagette for lunch later.

Numerous molded items are available in the shops. I haven't posted the male anatomy pictures I took. I did notice that at Chocolate World you could get polycarbonate versions of anatomically correct molds. Important if you are going to be doing a lot of them I guess.

Marzipan is also a popular item in shop windows.

This shop - Chocolate Line - has caused quite a stir in Bruges. The chocolatier strays from the traditional belgian flavours - did I mention that Belgian chocolatiers are a pretty conservative bunch?

On the wall is an article comparing him to Ferran Adria - I don't know that adding lemon grass to a chocolate or making a pizza flavoured praline would necessarily qualify as molecular gastronomy - but it's really far out for Belgium.

How to get your chocolates to replicate themselves.

Saw lots of confit fruits.

Now we moved on to the chocolate museum - lots of old molds - which Mr van Belle collects - as well as old equipment.

A nice old bain marie used for tempering.

The first tempering machine.

Seemed like the perfect Belgian product - chocolate fries.

[prairiegirl]

Wow, great pictures!! I have a lady who owns a lingerie shop and she wants me to do the "private body part" vchocolates! So the breasts were very interesting and think a good seller. I would love to do those for Valentines next year.

[Kerry Beal]

While we were doing our course, the third table in the kitchen was being used by Stephan Leroux, an MOF pastry chef and chocolatier who works for Belcolade. He was working on a series of showpieces that will be featured in a two volume book that is to be published this fall if all goes well. I, for one, will be getting this book when it is available.

We all found ourselves drawn to the work he was doing. It was simply amazing to watch what he could produce. At times he was working with chocolate paste that he made from cocoa powder and cocoa butter, other items he molded. He airbrushed, rubbed chocolate with colour and silk screened. He would paint layers of colour on acetate, then put some chocolate behind, cut lines, then roll it up to dry.

He made a series of white chocolate tubes in acetate, then we watched him transform them into a grove of bamboo, each piece perfect inside and out.

Picture taking was not allowed. Some of his showpieces can be seen on eG here when he was a member of the Belgian team at the World Pastry Team championships. Go to post #55 and look for the belgian team pictures.

Here is a piece that is in the lobby at Belcolade made by Stephan.

[Tri2Cook]

The final result with all the chocolate decorations applied.

←

Nice! Sounds more tropical than springtime but still looks and sounds tasty and he can call his dessert whatever he wants to.

[CanadianBakin']

Kerry, would you have to have acetate to make the chocolate/coconut decorations or could you use parchment? It's not something I'd do very often so I wouldn't want to buy a whole roll of acetate but it might be fun to try.

[Kerry Beal]

Kerry, would you have to have acetate to make the chocolate/coconut decorations or could you use parchment? It's not something I'd do very often so I wouldn't want to buy a whole roll of acetate but it might be fun to try.

←

Acetate gives you a shine that parchment can't. You can get pieces at art supply stores or Staples.

[Kerry Beal]

On Thursday evening we went back to Brussels, headed out for dinner. We found the Cafe Leffe, close by Marcolini in the Place du Grand Sablon for dinner. After dinner we had to try and find waffles, as two of the girls were determined to try them before they left for home the next morning. We didn't find the best examples I'd say. I tried the Liege waffles and they seemed fairly heavy and gummy. Perhaps a little under cooked.

The next morning I got up early and hit the train station. After a busy week of staying up late and getting up early, I was asleep in no time. Good thing someone gave me a poke when we arrived in Cologne.

I was picked up at the train station by eG's own Schneich. I had a 3 hour whirlwind visit in Cologne. First we went to one of his shops, enjoyed a coffee and a fabulous piece of his Chocolate Fondant. Very tasty and wonderfully smooth. On the way to his chocolate lab, we stopped off at a wonderful patisserie/bakery supply. I was like a kid in a candy store again. All the wonderful bannetons, some molds, a caloribac melter - too much to see in the short time we were there. I've got the catalogue to peruse. I had been instructed to try and find a coup lame for one of the pastry chef's who attended the course with me. He figured that germany would be the best place to find a quality blade. The owner of the supply store just laughed and said "everyone here uses a serrated knife to slash their loaves".

Isn't this a great location for a chocolate and pastry shop?

The front of the store.

Look at those fabulous macarons.

A variety of bars that Torsten decorates with Piedmont hazelnuts, pistachio, dried fruits, etc. I'm still working my way through them.

There are better pictures of the chocolate lab in the Starting a Chocolate Business thread than I took, so I'll just post some of the great looking goodies.

The soon to be opened store located in the same building as the chocolate lab.

I had a wonderful 3 hours, it was such a treat to meet Torsten and have the opportunity to see his stores, chocolate lab and bakery.

[Lior]

A very quaint and inviting place! Lovely!! Kerry I so enjoy taking a break from allmy daily responsibilities and sitting down to see what is new on this thread-as well as others! How can people live with egullet?? Just know that all your dedication and effort at posting and constantly helping and informing is very very appreciated. You are certainly a rare breed!!

[Kerry Beal]

Torsten dropped me back at the train station in time for my train to Bielefeld, where I was met by Michael Wolf - a friend who's family owns Lothar A. Wolf Spezialmaschinen, a manufacturer of industrial chocolate machines, and one of europe's largest agents of used equipment.

We stopped by the used equipment area first. I had a great wander around, checking out old brass candy rollers, huge conches, industrial sized coating pans. There were a few smaller items that caught my eye. Still a little too large to fit in my suitcase.

A rebuilt antique melanger - on it's way to South America somewhere. It was crated and wrapped in plastic, I managed to get the picture by holding the camera lens against the plastic.

A stone grinder for making nut pastes.

Lab sized melanger.

After leaving the used equipment we drove to the factory where the new equipment is built. The factory also had a nice little chocolate lab with temperers, coating pans and all sorts of toys to help them work the bugs out of the big equipment.

From the factory we made the drive out to the house, where Michael finally has enough room for his chocolate museum. He collects old metal chocolate molds. He figures he has 3500 or so. We spent some time in the attic rooting through boxes and I'm sure there were a whole lot more than 3500.

The Wolf's Den.

The Devil Collection.

A particularly nice pig.

The Tortoise collection.

A 4 piece tortoise mold that makes a box.

A squirrel a bit skinnier that the squirrels we see around here.

A fabulous cow mold.

A great elephant.

A stuffed bear collection - some very rare pieces here, especially the multpart molds.

Check out the locust mold. I've never seen one like that before.

The Chef's corner.

Hard candy rollers.

I thought my neck was going to snap off, from whipping it back and forth to check out all the molds.

[Chris Hennes]

This pig mold is awesome: I really would love to pick up a nice one to sort of combine my two hobbies!

[Beth Wilson]

Wouldn't it be cool to be able to try out those molds!! Can you imagine how much chocolate it would take for the elephant one!

A destination to add to my "Must see list". Thanks for finding another place for me to add to it. What would we do without your adventures Kerry!

[Kerry Beal]

The next morning we took advantage of a rare event - Michael not working on a Saturday - and took the 4 kids and a neighbours child to 'Salz and Zuckerland' - a candy store with working production equipment that shows kids how hard candy is made.

Salz and Zuckerland

Using the heat from the boiling sugar to get the glucose to drain into the pan.

Pouring out the sugar syrup into oiled rulers on an oiled stainless table.

Adding flavour - we chose mango and passionfruit.

Using a metal rod to stir in the flavour, colour and citric acid.

The candy now in a large clear segment and a smaller coloured segment.

Marvin watching in rapt attention as she pulls the sugar. The table is leather covered and heated via a radiator system from underneath.

Combining the pulled sugar syrup with the coloured syrup.

Heated roller, which keeps the candy pliable until you are ready to work it.

A lollipop lesson from the professional.

A great little hard candy roller in their collection.

Our finished lollypops. Not quite as perfect as the ones she produced.

[ejw50]

more great pics thanks!

[Lior]

Absolutely fascinating!!! I wish I could have been there to watch!! And the little boy is so cute!! I just love those old molds!! What an astounding collection-whew! (whistle!) And the pig? Just GREAT!!! Thanks for the pictures!

[prasantrin]

The next morning we took advantage of a rare event - Michael not working on a Saturday - and took the 4 kids and a neighbours child to 'Salz and Zuckerland' - a candy store with working production equipment that shows kids how hard candy is made. 

Suuuuuurrrrreee...use the kids as an excuse go see the candy store!

Adding flavour - we chose mango and passionfruit. 

←

So you got to make the candy, not just watch? Was it only because you (the adults) were experienced candy makers, or can anyone, adult or child, participate?

I've always wanted to make lollipops, but I'm afraid to do it by myself!

[Chris Hennes]

Marvin watching in rapt attention as she pulls the sugar.  The table is leather covered and heated via a radiator system from underneath. 

←

Why leather? That's really fascinating...

[Kerry Beal]

The next morning we took advantage of a rare event - Michael not working on a Saturday - and took the 4 kids and a neighbours child to 'Salz and Zuckerland' - a candy store with working production equipment that shows kids how hard candy is made. 

Suuuuuurrrrreee...use the kids as an excuse go see the candy store!

Adding flavour - we chose mango and passionfruit. 

←

So you got to make the candy, not just watch? Was it only because you (the adults) were experienced candy makers, or can anyone, adult or child, participate?

I've always wanted to make lollipops, but I'm afraid to do it by myself!

←

Anyone can participate. The candy maker does the sugar boiling and the original work with the hot sugar, but we got to take pieces and make the lollipops and stick candy etc. I thought that it was very strange compared to North America where you wouldn't let kids (or adults, for that matter) anywhere near hot candy for fear of them getting burned and suing.

Check out my confectionery course on eG for making lollipops. They aren't hard. There is a straight lollipop class there, but if you look at the pulled candy class, bent the pulled candy around, flattened them and pushed a stick into it you could make some excellent striped lollipops too. Just need to keep things warm while you work.

[Kerry Beal]

Why leather? That's really fascinating...

←

It seems to form a non stick surface for the hot sugar. The top layer of that table is actually naugahyde, but there was a leather layer underneath, and traditionally they work on leather. I guess it holds the heat but repels the sugar.

[Kerry Beal]

A few last things I neglected to post the first go through.

When Stef was making the ganache to be cut on the guitar, rather than apply the chocolate foot afterwards, he put down a layer of tempered chocolate on the guitar sheet before he poured out the layers of ganache.

You can see the thin layer of chocolate under the ganache.

Just before cutting he applied a thin layer of chocolate on top of the ganache, but cut it before it had a chance to harden. His explanation was that chocolate on top made for nice sharp edges after enrobing. Gotta work fast though, I know once the chocolate has hardened you get a real mess when you try to cut.

My favorite garbage can in the world. It has a nice large capacity, when you step on the pedal the lid comes up, then slowly closes again. Saw them at Chocolate World, go for about 500 euro. No wonder I liked it so much.