Paella Pans: The Discussion

[vkrn]

Read recs on cook's illustrated, which mentioned nothing re: difference between smooth v. pebbly (the latter being more traditional, supposedly) interior bottoms on paella pans... Searched eGullet info, with no luck.

What's the science behind a smooth v. pebbly interior bottom for paella pans? I note that Cook's Illustrated recommended the La Ideal pan with enamelled smooth bottoms... while also pointing out that you want to generate that crunchy rice crust at the bottom...

Wonder if it has something to do with increased heat at the peaks of the pebbles? No? Yes?

[boar_d_laze]

vkrn,

The express premise is that by creating a pattern of regular irregularities the heat will spread more evenly than with a flat bottom -- but it may be an artifact from a time when paelleras were hand-hammered.

Paelleras with the most tradition are earthenware -- very cool, but totally impractical. Most Spaniards use plain carbon steel or thin steel enamelled paelleras . If you can keep a seasoned pan without cleaning the "cure" off of it, steel is the best choice. Enamelled steel is a close second. If you choose enamel, don't choose anything too substantial. The trade off with thin steel is a very responsive pan that must be moved around during cooking for even cooking -- but that's arroz de paella for you. Copper is nice, but prohibitive. In my opinion, stainless and nonstick lag behind. You just can't get as good a socarrat -- the toasty rice you mentioned -- with stainless or stickless. Spanish kids know who Mama loves best by who gets the most socarrat.

If you cook paella more than a couple of times a year it's worth having a dedicated paellera. The kind that comes without a lid. A lid is a sure sign of total misunderstanding. It's a well known fact that El Cid invented aluminum foil for the resting period. If you cook paella once a month it's worth putting up with keeping a cured, crusty, steel paellera. You want a pan wide enough to cook your rice in a very thin layer. With a little googling, carbon steel paelleras are inexpensive. If it doesn't work for you it can be replaced with little loss. That having been said, you can do a good job in any shallow pan wide enough to cook a sufficient amount of rice in a thin layer.

In Spain they use a kind of medium-grained rice generically known as bomba. FWIW, you don't need imported Euro-rice with its snooty airs and well-tailored clothes. I've had very good luck with arroces (and risottos) using Cal-Rose.

Buena suerte,

Rich

Edited October 16, 2006 by boar_d_laze (log)

[vkrn]

THANK YOU! Awesome advice, with cultural, historical, and scientific tidbits thrown in!

[Marc Olson]

I made paella for the first time in years yesterday using a new carbon steel pan from The Spanish Table and Bomba rice. Mostly turned out great, except the soccarat was a little more burned than crusty. I'm going to give it another go tonight and try turning the heat down from high once the rice is added and bubbling (recipe I was using said keep heat on high for 10 minutes).

Suggestions appreciated!

[pigeonpie]

Could it be that the 'pebbly' bottoms are left over from days when such pans were made by hammering metal into shape, such that many modern ones retain the 'pebbles', even though they are no longer an unavoidable result of the production process?

Just wondering ...

[Anna N]

Could it be that the 'pebbly' bottoms are left over from days when such pans were made by hammering metal into shape, such that many modern ones retain the 'pebbles', even though they are no longer an unavoidable result of the production process?

Just wondering ...

←

I think that is what boar_d_laze suggested.

[pigeonpie]

Could it be that the 'pebbly' bottoms are left over from days when such pans were made by hammering metal into shape, such that many modern ones retain the 'pebbles', even though they are no longer an unavoidable result of the production process?

Just wondering ...

←

I think that is what boar_d_laze suggested.

←

See, that's what happens when you try to do three things at once.

(Note to self: pay more attention to egullet ...)

[boar_d_laze]

DEFINITELY, turn heat down to a simmer once the stock is boiling. Keep your eye on the pan -- if one part is cooking hotter than another you have to shift the pan around on the stove. In theory, that's part of "the fun."

Fully cook everything but the sofrito and the rice first -- then when the rice is almost done, decorate the rice with the meats, fishies, and veg -- just so they have the chance to warm through. None of that stuff really wants to be cooked on top of the rice. When the top layer of rice is al dente, arrange the good stuff on top of the rice in a star pattern, give it a couple of minutes, cover it with foil, give it another couple of minutes at a bare simmer, so you've got some steam in the foil, then turn off the flame. Let it rest for at least 8 minutes tightly covered with aluminum foil. 15 minutes is better than eight. The rest is a critical part of the cooking process.

Don't plate. Put the pan directly in the center of the table so everyone serves themselves with a boarding-house reach. This should clarify the purpose fo the star pattern -- it tells people where their portions begin and end.

On the subject of the dimples: More than thirty years ago I worked on a "heart lung machine" building a blood oxygenating unit out of a #8 can. Eventually the machine was picked up by a medical equipment manufacturer who had a prototype professionally built. Their machinist lathed the reservoir out of a solid stainless steel billet, machining grooves into the bottom of the reservoir mimicking the reinforcing rings of the can. When the machine went into production and the cylinders were made from stainless tubing with flat stock welded on to the bottom -- rings still machined into the stock. Everyone was unsure whether those rings did anything (they didn't) but were all to embarassed to ask.

Rich

[slbunge]

By the way, PaellaPans.com is a great source for pans and for information. I bought my plain carbon steel pan from them three years ago and have had fantastic luck.

Remember that much of the finesse of the soccarat is listenning for the crackle. You really want that state just before the burn. I've had varying luck but my best results always come when I really focus my attention on the rice at the end...hard to do when you have a bunch of hungry folks asking a boatload of questions.

[ChefCarey]

Read recs on cook's illustrated, which mentioned nothing re: difference between smooth v. pebbly (the latter being more traditional, supposedly) interior bottoms on paella pans...  Searched eGullet info, with no luck.

What's the science behind a smooth v. pebbly interior bottom for paella pans?  I note that Cook's Illustrated recommended the La Ideal pan with enamelled smooth bottoms...  while also pointing out that you want to generate that crunchy rice crust at the bottom...

Wonder if it has something to do with increased heat at the peaks of the pebbles?  No?  Yes?

←

Let me join the others whose suspicion is that the original, hand-beaten paellas were, no doubt, pebbly, as were the hand-formed woks.

I've been making - and teaching folks to make - paella for over 30 years and here are a few observations. (Oh, and that interesting web site notwithstanding, I find the term "paella *pan*" redundant, since a paella is a pan. As is the dish made in it.)

I've had both the earthenware and steel paellas. The earthenware did not survive long. It was dropped and broken by a student. Stick with the metal. Don't worry about pebbles.

You don't need a rice grown in a secluded glen on the southeastern slope of the Pyrenees. Any medium grain rice will do - arborio works just dandy. While the original may well have contained snails, I have not found this a popular choice for a modern paella. Most folks prefer shellfish. Either peas or beans work fine. I usually include chiles in the sofrito, but they are not necessary.

[boar_d_laze]

Chef,

Ever tried CalRose rice? Performs better than arborio for arroces and risottos I think; significantly cheaper, and more easily available -- at least on the left coast. There's also an Australian CalRose. Never tried it, personally.

Rich

[russ parsons]

rich, do you have much experience cooking paella over an outdoor grill? a couple of years ago our own archestratus came by the house and did one. the flavor was terrific, but the thing that surprised me was how quickly the rice cooked. it was a very fast flame; he used bomba rice; and as i recall, the paella was done inside 10 minutes. i've never seen rice cook that fast and i have no idea how to explain it.

[Curlz]

Rich and Chef Carey---

Do either of you have a basic sofrito recipe to share? I don't know if there are variations on the theme or if there's a sofrito recipe...

I'm also curious to know if it's something that can be made in quantity and stored for future use, and if so, the best method for doing so.

Thanks!

[boar_d_laze]

Thanks for asking. I'm flattered. I'm also not really an expert when it comes to this, but here's a complex sofrito I like. You can simplify it by omitting whatever seems like trouble. More, anon.

For a 16" Paella Valenciana (4 - 6 people)

Ingredients:

1 large Spanish onion

1 red bell pepper

1 green bell pepper

2 peeled and seeded roma tomatoes, or equivalent -- about 1/4 lb, or 1/2 C canned crushed tomatoes.

1/4 lb pancetta, or 4 rashers of good ol' 'merican bacon -- cut into 1/2" pieces

6 cl garlic

3 fillets of anchovies

3 tbs capers

1 tsp caper juice

1 tsp crushed coriander seed

1/2 tsp red pepper flakes -- or less

1/2 tsp sweet paprika -- or omit paprika and pepper flakes and substitute 1 tsp nora (There should be tilda over that n -- and rots o'ruck finding nora)

3 or 4 bay leafs

A few threads of saffron -- call it a 1/4 tsp.

Extra Virgin Olive oil (Trader Joe's or other el cheapo is fine)

Technique:

Chop the the onion and peppers to a medium dice. Chop the garlic and anchovies separately from the onion and peppers. Chop the tomatoes fine, or use a box grater. Heat a saute pan or the paellera to medium heat, and add a couple of tbs olive oil. Oil should be hot enough for fragrance, but nowhere near the smoke point. As you know EVO really objects to overheating. Add the bacon and render it down a bit. If you're using lean bacon, back bacon or ham, you'll need more olive oil. When the bacon starts to brown, add the onions and peppers. When the peppers begin to soften, add the garlic, then after a minute add the remaining ingredients and simmer until mixture marries and is reasonably thick. 5 to 10 minutes ish.

Recipe can be multiplied... 1-1/2X for an 18" or 20" pan, 2X for an 22" pan, etc.

One thing about this recipe is that the saffron is in the sofrito, so don't put it in the stock!. In the greater scheme of things it doesn't make much difference, and it's not that unusual but it is important to keep track of the saffron.

I can't remember ever storing a sofrito, but I don't see why it wouldn't keep in the fridge, the same way you store anything Spanish. I.e., covered, with a few mm of olive oil over the top. It ought to freeze well, too. I mean heck -- it's just aromatic mush, isn't it?

Now, about that simple thing: Onion and garlic are all you really need in a sofrito, the rest is embellishment.

Finally -- like any recipe you get from me, quantities are very elastic. Any improvisation you feel like trying in timing, amounts, or ingredients is enthusiastically encouraged. This is especially true with things like paella. Once you're comfortable with the technique, and you have some idea of how mushy you like your sofrito and how high above the rice the sofrito + stock should go -- throw out the recipes. Paella isn't Sousa, it's jazz.

One never know, do one?

Rich

PS. Claimer/disclaimer. This is an original recipe. No links necessary or extant.

PPS. Cook every other part of an arroz de paella separately, and add them at the last uncovered minute -- with the exception of clams which cook happily amidst steamng rice. Even mussels are easier to time separately.

PPPS. Don't forget that a good, long resting time, covered and off the fire, is an integral part of an arroz de paella.

NOTE: THE EDIT didn't change amounts or timing -- just a few clarifications, some additional misspelling, and a couple of random thoughts.

Edited October 17, 2006 by boar_d_laze (log)

[Alex]

I'm planning to buy a paella pan as a gift for some friends. They make paella maybe two or three times a year, and up until now have been using large baking dishes. I'm probably going to purchase from paellapans.com, unless someone has a better idea. I'm thinking of the largest one-burner size, 15" or 16" according to their web site. I'm looking for opinions about carbon steel vs. stainless steel pans. I know the stainless pans are much more expensive, but that's of secondary concern at the moment.

[tim]

Alex,

I have two high carbon steel pans and cannot tell you how happy we have been with the pans. They are perfectly non-stick (especiallly compared to stainless) and are perfect for broiling and even frying.

One is a de buyer and the other is a knock-off made in China and distributed by World Cuisine. The differences are not apparent. The pans are inexpensive and can be hard to find in various sizes.

I found a great selection of pans from My Cooking Store. Note: Their website is not properly certificated and may not encrypt your credit card information. Call any order to 818-845-5452.

Tim

[MagFoodGuy]

Spanish Table is also a good source for paella pans: http://www.spanishtable.com.

The carbon steel is more traditional and works quite well. They have a huge selection of paella pans. Literally huge, some of their pans can make up to 200 servings.

[Alex]

Thanks for the helpful feedback. I went with a 40 cm carbon steel pan (along with a kilo of Bomba rice and a quarter-ounce of saffron from Penzeys).

[MattJohnson]

Would anyone recommend the enamel pans over the carbon steel? They don't seem to be much more expensive...

I've never made paella, but we are camping for my brothers bachelor party, and I thought I might get a pan and do a paella.

[slkinsey]

Enamaled carbon steel is usually a much thinner gauge than uncoated carbon steel. I do not recommend it at all.

[MattJohnson]

perfect, thanks for the information. I'll stick to the tried and true carbon steel.

[ckruse]

I think Carbon steel is better even if you have to maintain them, they also make better crust.

[weinoo]

For paella, why not use a paella…from Spain?

[JoNorvelleWalker]

23 minutes ago, weinoo said:

For paella, why not use a paella…from Spain?

 

Because I have a paella from Argentina.  I've never been to Spain, although I've been close enough to see it.  By Spain were you suggesting a paella of enameled steel?

 

[weinoo]

6 hours ago, JoNorvelleWalker said:

 

Because I have a paella from Argentina.  I've never been to Spain, although I've been close enough to see it.  By Spain were you suggesting a paella of enameled steel?

 

 

Yet you write you gave up on that one, no?

 

I use a small enameled steel paella

 

 

only when I'm making a small amount of paella for the two of us. But I use a classic paella otherwise...

 

 

Of which I have 2 (or 3) sizes.