Matyson (LaBan, etc.)

[rlibkind]

Oversalting by the kitchen was the one issue we had, and I'm the type of guy who salts his buttered slices of baguette!

Either the bacon on the lamb could have been blanched first, or they added salt. Either way, salt became a flavor rather than an augmenting device. SWMBO complained that while the "creamed" (really, exceedingly rich buttered) spinach with her steak frites was superb, it was very salt. Sometimes, though, I think spinach just is salty, even without adding salt.

I agree, at least one overloaded mushroom dish would have been welcomed.

My scallop and risotto were perfectly cooked; I can imagine an undercooked risotto, but it's hard to contemplate how you can undercook a scallop -- overcook, yes, but not undercook, given how quickly even a large sea scallop can go from raw to rubber when not properly tended. Just say the word heat over it and it's cooked!

[philadining]

I didn't have any complaints about saltiness, but I will agree with mrbig that I was left thinking that the meal as a whole could have been mushroomier.

I suspect that might have had more to do with intellectual expectations, rather than the food on the plate. I thought each thing was quite tasty, and I have to wonder if the menu had been billed in some other way, following some theme that didn't mention mushrooms, we might have had no complaints at all.

That said, disconnects between menu prose and actual flavor are always a little distracting. Ignoring the mushroom theme, the first course's dumpling was quite nice, and I loved the broth, but wasn't getting a lot of the billed ginger. The duck terrine was good too, especially smeared with some of that great mustard, but I didn't taste much truffle as touted on the menu. My scallop was perfectly cooked, but if there was porcini powder on it, it was lost in the sear. I got no sea-urchin vibe from the nage. I loved the lamb, but thought it tasted like lamb and bacon, which is by no means a bad thing. The fried polenta alongside was fantastic. The poached pear was beautifully-done, as billed, with all the flavors I expected.

So, while that looks like a long list of complaints, I actually quite enjoyed the meal. And I suspect if the menu descriptions had been minimal, I might have stopped looking for the stuff I was expecting, and just enjoyed the food more.

So it's an odd conundrum: I thought the food was well-executed and delicious, but it didn't deliver some of the flavors promised on the menu. I certainly prefer that to something that tastes exactly as billed but isn't actually enjoyable.

I won't hesitate to go back for more of these tasting menus, regardless of how the food is described. What's on the plate has almost always been quite delicious, and any quibbles are usually with whether it's what I expected. And service has been quite good as well: they're very friendly, and accommodating of our various quirks...

Edited March 7, 2008 by philadining (log)

[mrbigjas]

I suspect that might have had more to do with intellectual expectations, rather than the food on the plate.  I thought each thing was quite tasty, and I have to wonder if the menu had been billed in some other way, following some theme that didn't mention mushrooms,  we might have had no complaints at all.

yeah, that.

The fried polenta alongside was fantastic. 

oh yeah, definitely that. that stuff was awesome.

[rlibkind]

Yes, the polenta! An incredibly delicate, thin gossamer of a crust surrounding a creamy interior.

[Capaneus]

Why has no-one mentioned the deep-fried egg? Everyone should talk about the deep-fried egg. Then everyone should go out and deep-fry eggs, and bring them to me.

I suppose, in fairness, that the deep-fried egg was not part of the tasting menu, but it was easily the most distinctive item in last night's diner. I agree with most of the individual points made, but my overarching complaint is that I expect more than tasty adequacy from Matyson: there is no question in my mind that this week's tasting menu was a great value, but that is not the standard this kitchen has set for itself, for better or for worse. When three out of the last four of these I have eaten have ranked among the best meals I've had in the past year, I couldn't help but feel let down by last night's dinner. It was uniformly good, but never great. And, most importantly, I felt they were *trying* for base hits. They did not once swing for the fences.

Except with the deep-fried egg. That baby sailed clean out of the ballpark.

[philadining]

A tasting menu featuring: Kennett Square Mushrooms

Foie Gras and Mushroom Dumpling

Mushroom-Ginger Broth

Truffled Duck Terrine

Pickled Mushrooms, Whole Grain Mustard

Porcini Dusted Diver Scallop

Porcini Risotto, Sea Urchin Nage

Bacon and Mushroom Crusted Rack of Lamb

Crispy Polenta, Rosemary Demiglace

Red Wine Poached Anjou Pear

Almond Creme Anglaise, Mascarpone Filling

oh and the fabled deep-fried egg. I think there might have been sweetbreads on the plate too...

Edited March 8, 2008 by philadining (log)

[dagordon]

I highly recommend Matyson's Young & Delicious (aka Barely Legal) tasting menu this week -- baby vegetables and proteins. For some reason we hadn't been in a while before tonight, and as soon as the food came we started to wonder why... of the many tasting menus we've had, as I recall one was merely good, and the rest were varying degrees of excellent. This one is quite excellent. And a tremendous value at $45.

The crispy smoked sweetbreads are a highlight. For a while I was turned off of the idea of smoked sweetbreads after having a poor version of the dish in this city. This is fantastic. It's smoked with what I was told are applewood and maybe some mesquite, and the result is crispy on the outside, creamy on the inside, bacony sweetbreads. The hackleback roe & lobster & gnocci is also killer.

http://www.matyson.com/tasting.html

Edited June 25, 2008 by dagordon (log)

[ulterior epicure]

Going back to philadining's photos of the Kennett Square Mushroom tasting: That seems like an awfully generous amount of food for $45. I think this might be a great place for my other dinner.

[wkl]

Going back to philadining's photos of the Kennett Square Mushroom tasting: That seems like an awfully generous amount of food for $45.  I think this might be a great place for my other dinner.

←

not sure when you will be visiting, but the $45 tm is only monday-thursday. (i think)

[shacke]

I highly recommend Matyson's Young & Delicious (aka Barely Legal) tasting menu this week -- baby vegetables and proteins. For some reason we hadn't been in a while before tonight, and as soon as the food came we started to wonder why... of the many tasting menus we've had, as I recall one was merely good, and the rest were varying degrees of excellent. This one is quite excellent. And a tremendous value at $45.

The crispy smoked sweetbreads are a highlight. For a while I was turned off of the idea of smoked sweetbreads after having a poor version of the dish in this city. This is fantastic. It's smoked with what I was told are applewood and maybe some mesquite, and the result is crispy on the outside, creamy on the inside, bacony sweetbreads. The hackleback roe & lobster & gnocci is also killer.

http://www.matyson.com/tasting.html

←

I was there last night as well - nice to run into the newlyweds. I too thought it was great and an insane value. Plus, it's BYO. I ran home to tell my wife to get some babysitting lined up this summer. We're going back. I thought the gnocchi and octopus were the highlights.

[dagordon]

We went back last night, just to make sure that we weren't imagining anything two nights before. It was spectacular. If I were nitpicking I'd say that the octopus dish needed a touch more acid, but this is really nitpicking. The kitchen is operating at a very high level. If there's consistently better food to be had in this city, I'm all ears...

Also, the front of house is very, very nice. This time we were with a baby, and they couldn't have been more accomodating.

This quality of food for $45/person is borderline ridiculous.

We're moving pretty close to Matyson soon, and this is definitely going to be a weekly thing for us.

[zeffer81]

Anyone had this week's lobster menu? I'm bringing my fiancee for his 30th tomorrow.

Katie (or anyone) any wine recs for the menu? He's a bubbly or white wine kinda guy.

I'll report back!

[KatieLoeb]

Go bubbly or go buttery. You can't go wrong in either case. A nice chardonnay/white Burgundy would be delicious. As would the finest bubbly you wish to spring for.

Report back. The menu looked great but I had other plans this week and couldn't take advantage.

[mattohara]

we went. that lobster carpaccio was my favorite. thinly slice and with some porcinis. gah. i actually got a Frog's Leap Sauvignon Blank that went very very well. none of the dishes is exceedingly buttery, so you could either go with buttery to fill it out or go with citrusy crisp like i did. i thought it went very very well.

[dagordon]

This week's tasting menu was perhaps the strongest one we've had at Matyson:

"Out of Our Gourds"

Sugar Pumpkin Soup

Pumpkin seed tuile, cider gastrique

Spaghetti Squash Carbonara

Pan roasted diver scallop, pancetta, parmesan

Butternut Squash Coconut Curry Stew

American red snapper, steamed mussels, peanut sambal

Sautéed Acorn Squash Gnocchi

Five spice roasted quail, porcini mushrooms, quail jus

Pumpkin Napoleon

White chocolate mousse, honey sauce

--

This was really flawless (well, the third course should have been served with a spoon, so that you could get every last bit of the delicious broth).

Matyson continues to serve some of best food in Philly, imho. At $45 the tasting menu is always a steal, and this week's particularly so. The level of execution of the food here is very high.

[kosoffj]

dagordon - question for you - was it too much food? we are going tonite, and i'm afraid if my husband and i both get it we will be flat out stuffed!

I am super excited to try it though, it's been far too long since we've been but that's what having a 3 year old does to you

[Capaneus]

dagordon - question for you - was it too much food? we are going tonite, and i'm afraid if my husband and i both get it we will be flat out stuffed!

I am super excited to try it though, it's been far too long since we've been but that's what having a 3 year old does to you

←

dagordon may be the wrong person to ask: he's been known to order entire additional entrees off the menu, to supplement the prix fixe.

I'd guess that you get about as much food as if you were ordering three courses a la carte. Each tasting menu course is maybe about app-sized, except the dessert, which is, oddly enough, dessert-sized.

Enjoy. I've missed the last couple of weeks, and I'm hankerin' for some...

[zeffer81]

I know I'm late to the party but...it's definitely not too much food. We actually ordered something off of the menu in addition and still left full but not stuffed. Looking forward to your report!

[kosoffj]

it was awesome. the standout was the second course which was a poached lobster with an avocado grapefruit salad. soooooooooo yummy. and they were very kind my husband is allergic to lobster and wnated to do the tasting menu so they did the same sald with a few fried oysters on top which he loved and appreciated!

it was the perfect amount of food for me. but my husband definately left a little hungry. i think if we do it again i'll do the tasting and he'll order off the menu. service was a little oddly spaced (some long waits between courses) but we were with friends and didn't mind. plus we sat and finished our wine for quite awhile after we finished dessert and never felt rushed out so that was very nice!

[TarteTatin]

I get emails from The Wine Garage in Calistoga, California.

Here is what the one last week said:

"Dear Friends and Loyal Customers,

I am so happy to announce our very first wine release in conjunction with a wine pairing dinner at my new favorite restaurant, JoLe.

Mat and Sonja Spector moved to Calistoga this summer from Philadelphia where their restaurant, Madyson, received rave reviews. I have personally dined there over 5 times and have been wowed by Mat's entrees and Sonja's desserts.

Mat and Sonja bring new energy and enthusiasm to the "Farm to Table" concept all us Californians enjoy.

Mat and I designed the menu found below to pair perfectly with

the Wine Garages' first releases.

Looking forward to seeing many of you next Monday,

Todd Miller

The time is 6 p.m. and the cost is $100 per person, plus tax, tip,

and other beverages.

JoLe is lcoated at the Mount View Hotel

1457 Lincoln Ave. Calistoga, CA

phone 707-942-5938

Please call Jole directly to make your reservation.

The menu and wine pairings:

"Joy Ride" White Blend North Coast 08

(Albarino, Sauv Blanc, Viognier, and Muscat)

Foie Gras Slider w/ Pear Chutney, twice baked almond brioche

*Sauvignon Blanc "Musque Clone" Napa Valley 08

Sea Scallop w/ Lobster & Potato hash, pink grapefruit sabayon

*

Pinot Noir Sonoma Coast 07

Hawaiian Swordfish w/ Smoked avocado mousse, toasted cumin and tomato vinaigrette

*Cabernet Sauvignon "Hillside" Napa 06

Pulled BBQ Brisket, w/ Crispy Polenta and pickled veggies

*Zinfandel Napa Valley 06

Crispy Pork Belly, w/Pork stuffed eggplant, dried cherry gastrique

*Syrah North Coast 06

Lamb Tostadas, w/ Lamb loin, tongue and red mole

*

Vin Santo NV

Mascarpone cheese cake, biscotti

[shacke]

Interestingly - dovetailing on your post TarteTartin - I would state that Matyson since they left is a much better restaurant. Much. That includes food and service.

Evan

[sockii]

Thanks to our office closing early tonight due to both the weather and a plumbing problem, the sweetie and I were able to sneak into Matyson for the first time in a good couple years and it was an outstanding meal all around.

David went for the tasting menu which this week was in celebration of the Chinese New Year:

Oxtail wontons, pickled peking cabbage, lotus chips, mushroom broth

Chinese noodles, shrimp, snap peas, chili & garlic

Five spice duck breast, sweet potato & bok choy, tangerine-soy reduction

Grilled whole red mullet, bamboo shoots, scallion, black bean sauce

Green tea ice cream & lemon cookies ($45)

These were all excellent, especially to my mind the oxtail wontons (wonderfully earthy and it went perfectly with the Calabrian red wine we'd brought) and the grilled red mullet (rich grilled flavor, nice touch of black bean sauce without drowning out the flavor of the fish.)

I had the

Herb Crusted Ahi Tuna ($13) - lovely light starter with a great salad of fennel and watercress

Crispy Skinned Wild Salmon with curried green lentils, pineapple salsa, mussel-coconut nage ($25) - very subtle curry flavor, but extremely filling

Coconut Cream Pie ($8)

Total bill was about $125 with t/t. If I compare it with the meal we had 2 weeks ago at Tangerine, it really blew Tangerine out of the water. Everything was much more about subtlety and delicacy, beautiful blends of flavors and excellent execution. We'd definitely be going here more often if it wasn't so rare of a chance for us to eat out on weeknights, when it's easier to secure a table.

[wkl]

isn't the season for wild salmon long over?

[dagordon]

Actually you can get wild pacific salmon year round:

http://wdfw.wa.gov/outreach/fishing/salmon.htm

You can even find king salmon during the winter. Wegmans had it last year. Google "king salmon winter" and you'll find a lot of charter companies that will actually take you fishing for king salmon during the winter.

--

On a different topic, the shellfish tasting menu this week is absolutely spectacular. Perhaps the best tasting menu I've had there. Tonight's the last night -- don't miss it!

I'm hard pressed to think where else I could get a meal of this quality in Philadelphia, regardless of the cost. That this menu is $45/person is just incredible.

[julastern]

This week's tasting menu is “BBQ a la Matyson”:

--

Watermelon Salad

Feta, pickled red onion & jalapeno, ice wine, mint & opal basil

Crispy Smoked Baby Back Ribs

Avocado mousse, grilled corn salsa, Georgia peach glaze

Grilled Diver Scallop

Banana mash, grilled porcini mushrooms, fig vinegar

Barbequed Duck Breast

Baked beans, molasses, coffee, jicama-mango-orange slaw

Berry Cobbler

Vanilla ice cream, caramel sauce

--

Could anyone suggest some wine to pair with these dishes? Mr. Pawlak, I hear that you're a beer expert; is there any beer that you think might go well with some of this food? Is it looked down upon to bring beer to a restaurant of this caliber?