CHI: Topolobampo and Frontera Grill

[bilrus]

I've searched high and low and haven't found an actual thread on Topolobampo. Sure there are plenty of threads mentioning the restaurant and a few infamous ones tearing Rick Bayless to shreds over his Burger King experience. But no threads dedicated to his long-time signature restaurant? I think I'll rectify that.

I've always enjoyed cooking from Bayless' recipes so I wanted one of my two dinners on my recent visit to be at either Topolobampo or Frontera, although I had some reservations. I'm always a little leery of places with big reputations that have been around a while - is the rep based on today or five or ten years ago?

But my wife and I were thorougly pleased and pleasantly surprised. We had the tasting menu, along with several margaritas and there wasn't a course in the bunch I didn't really enjoy (and not a jalapeno to be found anywhere). From the Crema de Quelites con Pollo Ahumado - a smoky, salty, creamy bowl of green soup to the vibrant and tender Pork in the Puerco en Mole Verde Queretano. Only the desserts fell a touch short.

It reminded me somewhat of Babbo, in that it is a "celebrity" chef's place, turning out "not exactly haute cusine" dressed up a little bit and doing it very well. Is it inspired? No. But they appear to have the formula down pat.

While I'd never consider our meal at Topolobampo as "great" as the meal I had the night before at Trotter's, it definitely gave it a run for the money in terms of enjoyment.

Maybe it was the margaritas.

And I publicly and officially take back anything bad I said about Bayless in any of those other threads. He can endorse whatever he wants as long as his kitchen is turning out food like this.

Edited June 28, 2005 by bilrus (log)

[hjshorter]

Thanks Bill. I love Bayless' cookbooks and Topolobampo is on my short list for our Chicago trip.

[docsconz]

Topolobampo is perhaps the finest mexican food I have ever had. One of the things I was particularly pleased with was the breadth and quality of their wine list and the excellent recommendations for pairing that we had. Next time I'm back in Chicago it is a must for me along with a return to Alinea.

[pete ganz]

Sounds great Bill. I am looking forward to going to Topolobampo next Wednesday for dinner. Since there are no reservations, does anyone know what time the crowds start getting there? Also, if someone wants the tasting menu, does the whole table need to order it?

[VeryApe77]

Sounds great Bill. I am looking forward to going to Topolobampo next Wednesday for dinner. Since there are no reservations, does anyone know what time the crowds start getting there? Also, if someone wants the tasting menu, does the whole table need to order it?

←

Actually, you can make reservations at Topolobampo - you can't at it's slightly less formal neighbour, Frontera Grill.

I've never been before, but my charming ladyfriend is taking me there tomorrow night for my birthday. I'm looking forward to it....

[pete ganz]

My bad, you're right, I was thinking of Frontera. It is supposedly the same or similar food, but with no reservations.

Don't forget to give a report VeryApe....

Edited July 7, 2005 by pete ganz (log)

[bilrus]

My bad, you're right, I was thinking of Frontera. It is supposedly the same or similar food, but with no reservations.

Don't forget to give a report VeryApe....

←

Frontera appeared (we actually enjoyed dinner enough that we tried to go for lunch the following day but got there right at their 2:30 closing) to have a slightly more casual menu as well as feel. Less elaborate presentations, probably slightly less expensive ingredients, etc.

[docsconz]

I believe that Topolobampo is more sophisticated and creative, while Frontera Grill is more traditional and less formal. Topolobampo is by no means stuffy, however.

[mrsadm]

I will be in Chicago the last week in August and very much wanted to have dinner at either Frontera or Topolobampo. (I'd love to go to Charlie Trotter's but I'm traveling with some beer and burger friends). Thanks for this thread so I have an up to date view of what to expect from Topolobampo. I have read some pretty horrible reviews on the net about Frontera so I will not try them.

[bleachboy]

I will be in Chicago the last week in August and very much wanted to have dinner at either Frontera or Topolobampo.  (I'd love to go to Charlie Trotter's but I'm traveling with some beer and burger friends).  Thanks for this thread so I have an up to date view of what to expect from Topolobampo.  I have read some pretty horrible reviews on the net about Frontera so I will not try them.

←

Actually, I thought Frontera was pretty damn good the time I ate there. I even went back two days later to eat there again, but it was closed.

However, if you wanted to do Trotter's you should probably do Topolobampo, since they have tasting menus and stuff and it's much fancier.

[ariggsby]

Rick Bayless ruined my life.

Well, not really, but I did have a major soup experience at Topo a couple of years ago. At the begining of a generally fine meal, I had the "sopa Azteca", basically a chile-heavy tortilla soup. It was unspeakably good, and I've barely been able to eat normal tortilla soup again, which is a real problem when you live in Texas.

Andrew

[VeryApe77]

I had a really good meal at Topo on Friday. Sadly, I don't have time to write more about it now (stupid job ) but I could post the menu I had tomorrow is anyone is interested.

And yes, the soup was probably the best course in my opinion....just fantastic.

Edited July 12, 2005 by VeryApe77 (log)

[ronnie_suburban]

I had a really great meal at Topo on Friday. Sadly, I don't have time to write more about it now (stupid job ) but I could post the menu I had tomorrow is anyone is interested. . .

←

Yes, definitely interested

Thanks,

=R=

[mrsadm]

Last week I dined at Topolobampo, Rick Bayless' upscale Chicago restaurant. The experience was fantastic. The food was superb and the atmosphere was very relaxed and quiet, and service was quite good.

I acted like a totally crass tourist and took pictures of the food. I also asked our server if I could keep the menu as a souvenier and she offered to have Rick Bayless sign it. She also offered to see if he'd come out to meet us at our table - which he graciously did. A very nice experience all around!

Me and my friend Ralph at the table:

I had the Chef's tasting dinner with matched wines for each course. Sorry I forgot to photograph the first course but it was delicious.

To start: Guacamole with cucumbers and jicama for dipping.

First Course:

"Corundas Rellenas" - classic Michoacan-style triangular tamales

2004 Cloudy Bay, Sauvignon Blanc, Marlborough, New Zealand

Second Course:

"Sopa de Flores" - creamy silky soup of local squash blossoms, serrano chiles and epazote, topped cappucchino-style with frothy milk; served with empanadas of squash blossoms and local artisanal chese.

2002 Belondrade y Lurton, Verdejo, Rueda, Spain

Third Course:

Langosta al Chilaca - Maine lobster in chilaca chile cream sauce

2001 Dom. Caillot, "Les Herbeux", Bourgogne, Mersault France

Fourth Course:

Carne en Mole Coloradito - adobo-marinated Coleman Natural beef in rich red-chile mole (ancho and guajillo) seasoned with sweet spices and thickened with sesame seeds; with crispy, queso anejo-flavored potatoes and braised greens.

2003 Isenhower, "Wild Alfalfa", syrah, Columbia Valley, Washington

Fifth Course:

Desert Sampler; 2003 Allendorf, "Winkeler Gutenberg" Eiswein, Rheingau, Germany

My friend ordered an entree with Duck which he really enjoyed:

Pato al Ajonjoli - sesame-crusted, pan roasted Gunthorp duck breast with sesame-thickened tomato-arbol sauce, Mexican greens (verdolages) and "lasagna" of tortillas, white beans and napales.

I can't wait to return!

[fifi]

I dined at Topo a few weeks ago while in Chicago visiting my son. We finally planned ahead enough to get that reservation. I have to admit that I was really anxious about the meal not living up to my expectations. We actually talked about that before being seated. There were three of us, myself, my son and a friend.

I should not have worried. I don't remember everything we had but I can say that we were not dissappointed with the food or service. I second the praises for the soups. I tasted the friend's gaspacho. I don't like gaspacho. It was fabulous. The mole sauce on my pork was complex and sublime.

My only worry was that someone would recognize my name on the credit card as being one of those folks at eGullet that gave Bayless such a hard time.

We have eaten at Frontera a few times. Absolutely excellent and a different experience altogether.

[little ms foodie]

Does anyone know if they do the tasting menu in the bar?

[little ms foodie]

I had a wonderful dinner at Topolobampo last week while in Chicago, the dining room and staff are really top notch.

I did the Chef's tasting menu with the wine pairings- very well matched and interesting combos!!

Tamal Colado ~ polenta style tamal studded with tepary beans and steamed in banana leaves. Topped with Dungeness crab and achiote infused morel mushrooms with roasted tomato habanero sauce. Paired with 98 Iron Horse Brut Rose, Sonoma CA

I'm not a huge fan of the Iron Horse Brut Rose but it went pretty well with this. I really liked the tamal and thought the texture with the beans in it was great.

Crema de Espinacas ~ creamy soup of spinach and parsnips with morita chile, smoked chicken and bacon. Paired with 03 Loimer "Kaferberg" Gruner Veltliner, Austria

The wine was maybe just a bit light for the creamy soup but the balance of the acidity against the smoky meats in the soup were great.

Langosta en Pipian de Pinon ~ pan roasted Main lobster topped with pine nut infused ancho chili sauce, chayote gratinado and microgreens. Paired with 01 Sierra Cantabria Crianza, Rioja Alta, Spain.

Amazing pairing!! The rioja went so nicely with the sauce in this dish and I loved the chayote gratinado!

Ribeye en Mole Poblano ~ chili marinated ribeye served with Pueblan mole. Paired with Saxum "Broken Stones" Syrah, Paso Robles CA

This wine was such a winner, I even overheard another dinner ask for 'just a spash more'. The mole was amazing! I couldn't eat much of this though as I was getting very full by this time.

edited to add in the dessert- Delicia de Coco y chocolate blanco ~ white chocolate cream scented with Mexican vanilla and studed with preserved sour prickly pear, sandwiched between layers of coconut Mexican chocolate meringue cake; mango blueberry salsa. Paired with 04 Domaine de Durban Muscat de Beaumes de Venise, Rhone Valley, FR

yum, yum, yum!

Edited March 20, 2006 by little ms foodie (log)

[Elrushbo]

I had a wonderful dinner at Topolobampo last week while in Chicago, the dining room and staff are really top notch.

I did the Chef's tasting menu with the wine pairings- very well matched and interesting combos!!

Tamal Colado ~ polenta style tamal studded with tepary beans and steamed in banana leaves. Topped with Dungeness crab and achiote infused morel mushrooms with roasted tomato habanero sauce. Paired with 98 Iron Horse Brut Rose, Sonoma CA

I'm not a huge fan of the Iron Horse Brut Rose but it went pretty well with this. I really liked the tamal and thought the texture with the beans in it was great.

Crema de Espinacas ~ creamy soup of spinach and parsnips with morita chile, smoked chicken and bacon. Paired with 03 Loimer "Kaferberg" Gruner Veltliner, Austria

The wine was maybe just a bit light for the creamy soup but the balance of the acidity against the smoky meats in the soup were great.

Langosta en Pipian de Pinon ~ pan roasted Main lobster topped with pine nut infused ancho chili sauce, chayote gratinado and microgreens. Paired with 01 Sierra Cantabria Crianza, Rioja Alta, Spain.

Amazing pairing!! The rioja went so nicely with the sauce in this dish and I loved the chayote gratinado!

Ribeye en Mole Poblano ~ chili marinated ribeye served with Pueblan mole. Paired with Saxum "Broken Stones" Syrah, Paso Robles CA

This wine was such a winner, I even overheard another dinner ask for 'just a spash more'. The mole was amazing! I couldn't eat much of this though as I was getting very full by this time.

←

Sounds good! I'm already going to Moto on my June trip, looking for a second place the night before, was thinking Spring or Kevin, may have to consider this place now.

[Judith Gebhart]

I had a wonderful dinner at Topolobampo last week while in Chicago, the dining room and staff are really top notch.

I did the Chef's tasting menu with the wine pairings- very well matched and interesting combos!!

Tamal Colado ~ polenta style tamal studded with tepary beans and steamed in banana leaves. Topped with Dungeness crab and achiote infused morel mushrooms with roasted tomato habanero sauce. Paired with 98 Iron Horse Brut Rose, Sonoma CA

I'm not a huge fan of the Iron Horse Brut Rose but it went pretty well with this. I really liked the tamal and thought the texture with the beans in it was great.

Crema de Espinacas ~ creamy soup of spinach and parsnips with morita chile, smoked chicken and bacon. Paired with 03 Loimer "Kaferberg" Gruner Veltliner, Austria

The wine was maybe just a bit light for the creamy soup but the balance of the acidity against the smoky meats in the soup were great.

Langosta en Pipian de Pinon ~ pan roasted Main lobster topped with pine nut infused ancho chili sauce, chayote gratinado and microgreens. Paired with 01 Sierra Cantabria Crianza, Rioja Alta, Spain.

Amazing pairing!! The rioja went so nicely with the sauce in this dish and I loved the chayote gratinado!

Ribeye en Mole Poblano ~ chili marinated ribeye served with Pueblan mole. Paired with Saxum "Broken Stones" Syrah, Paso Robles CA

This wine was such a winner, I even overheard another dinner ask for 'just a spash more'. The mole was amazing! I couldn't eat much of this though as I was getting very full by this time.

←

Sounds good! I'm already going to Moto on my June trip, looking for a second place the night before, was thinking Spring or Kevin, may have to consider this place now.

←

I would advocate Schwa, Alinea and Moto for any visitor coming to Chicago for an introduction to CHicago's finest and newest culinary talents. Spring is also an excellent choice. Try the very best fine dining sites you can afford! This choice will also guarantee a magnificent dining experience.

Schwa will NOT break the bank and is an amazing value in CHicago. So is Spring which is more expensive than Schwa.

Now Moto and Alinea can be more expensive. You can ultimately dine at the best of both. If you have one meal at both establishments is it worth it?? YES!! Yes without qualification. Your tab will be in excess of $200. Judith Gebhart

[tokyogurumegal]

Have you seen the move Like Water for Chocolate? When I dined in Topolobampo in my last visit to Chicago, I thought "ahhhhhhhh this must be like the food in that movie!". However... I didn't go running out of the restaurant tearing my clothes off like that red head! Their margarita was incredible. I had no idea good quality tequila tastes so smooth.

[ulterior epicure]

... I thought "ahhhhhhhh this must be like the food in that movie!".  However... I didn't go running out of the restaurant tearing my clothes off like that red head!

LOL!!

Neither did I, thank goodness!

u.e.

[docsconz]

I had a wonderful dinner at Topolobampo last week while in Chicago, the dining room and staff are really top notch.

I did the Chef's tasting menu with the wine pairings- very well matched and interesting combos!!

Tamal Colado ~ polenta style tamal studded with tepary beans and steamed in banana leaves. Topped with Dungeness crab and achiote infused morel mushrooms with roasted tomato habanero sauce. Paired with 98 Iron Horse Brut Rose, Sonoma CA

I'm not a huge fan of the Iron Horse Brut Rose but it went pretty well with this. I really liked the tamal and thought the texture with the beans in it was great.

Crema de Espinacas ~ creamy soup of spinach and parsnips with morita chile, smoked chicken and bacon. Paired with 03 Loimer "Kaferberg" Gruner Veltliner, Austria

The wine was maybe just a bit light for the creamy soup but the balance of the acidity against the smoky meats in the soup were great.

Langosta en Pipian de Pinon ~ pan roasted Main lobster topped with pine nut infused ancho chili sauce, chayote gratinado and microgreens. Paired with 01 Sierra Cantabria Crianza, Rioja Alta, Spain.

Amazing pairing!! The rioja went so nicely with the sauce in this dish and I loved the chayote gratinado!

Ribeye en Mole Poblano ~ chili marinated ribeye served with Pueblan mole. Paired with Saxum "Broken Stones" Syrah, Paso Robles CA

This wine was such a winner, I even overheard another dinner ask for 'just a spash more'. The mole was amazing! I couldn't eat much of this though as I was getting very full by this time.

←

Sounds good! I'm already going to Moto on my June trip, looking for a second place the night before, was thinking Spring or Kevin, may have to consider this place now.

←

I would advocate Schwa, Alinea and Moto for any visitor coming to Chicago for an introduction to CHicago's finest and newest culinary talents. Spring is also an excellent choice. Try the very best fine dining sites you can afford! This choice will also guarantee a magnificent dining experience.

Schwa will NOT break the bank and is an amazing value in CHicago. So is Spring which is more expensive than Schwa.

Now Moto and Alinea can be more expensive. You can ultimately dine at the best of both. If you have one meal at both establishments is it worth it?? YES!! Yes without qualification. Your tab will be in excess of $200. Judith Gebhart

←

I certainly would not argue against those restaurants, but Topolobampo has always been on my to do list in Chicago because it is so difficult to find truly great Mexican haute cuisine anywhere else outside of Mexico. I felt that way even before my recent trip with Rick Bayless. Not to take anything away from the other restaurants that Judith mentions, but I wouldn't sell Topo short. I do not disagree with her recommendations, it is just that I include Topo on my list with them. If you do go try their pairings with Mexican wines. They work surprisingly and amazingly well with the food.

[ronnie_suburban]

I certainly would not argue against those restaurants, but Topolobampo has always been on my to do list in Chicago because it is so difficult to find truly great Mexican haute cuisine anywhere else outside of Mexico. I felt that way even before my recent trip with Rick Bayless. Not to take anything away from the other restaurants that Judith mentions, but I wouldn't sell Topo short. I do not disagree with her recommendations, it is just that I include Topo on my list with them. If you do go try their pairings with Mexican wines. They work surprisingly and amazingly well with the food.

←

I'm with doc on this one. Can't argue at all with Judith's suggestions but you haven't "done" Chicago until you've been to one of Bayless's spots. In a town known for its chefs, Bayless is always going to appear near the top of the roster.

Happily, Topolobampo and Frontera Grill are open for lunch which makes hitting them a bit easier than some other places in town.

=R=

[Sneakeater]

If you do go try their pairings with Mexican wines. They work surprisingly and amazingly well with the food.

←

I'm very interested in that remark, because in a fairly recent visit to Mexico City I tried and tried to pair Mexican wines with alta/nueva cucina, and I just couldn't make it work. I consistently found the foods too rich for the reds (the way Indian food is), and too hearty for the whites. I'd love to hear what you've done.

Edited March 22, 2006 by Sneakeater (log)

[little ms foodie]

If you do go try their pairings with Mexican wines. They work surprisingly and amazingly well with the food.

←

I'm very interested in that remark, because in a fairly recent visit to Mexico City I tried and tried to pair Mexican wines with alta/nueva cucina, and I just couldn't make it work. I consistently found the foods too rich for the reds (the way Indian food is), and too hearty for the whites. I'd love to hear what you've done.

←

As stated, my wines were very well matched and quite surprising as generally I don't drink wine with this type of meal. For that alone I think it's worth the trip to Topo.

I'm heading back to chicago next month, maybe I'll hit Frontera this time.