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ariggsby

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  1. ariggsby

    Momofuku Ko (Part 2)

    Sorry, I'm not on the board very often. The only things that I didn't love were the egg (not a main ingredient I'm fond of, and the didn't sell me on it) and, surprisingly, the foie. Best dishes for me were the pasta, carpaccio, and pork. Also, everything with the "hozon" (basically non-soy-based miso, as I understand) was spectacular.
  2. ariggsby

    Siphon to make dumplings?

    The texture is wildly different than a normal scrambled or poached egg. That might not be your thing, but it's hardly pointless. A
  3. ariggsby

    Siphon to make dumplings?

    We're in the process of moving, but I'll report back when I get to try it. The air waffles, by the way, look great! A
  4. ariggsby

    Siphon to make dumplings?

    No, though that would have been an excellent trick! As far as I could tell, they'd beatend the egg thouroughly (and I presume strained it) before loading it into the siphon. The resulting poached object was about the size of a poached egg, but fluffy, off-white, and homogeneous. A
  5. ariggsby

    Momofuku Ko (Part 2)

    Lunch 12 July 2014 (forgive the errors of recognition and memory on my part): Amuses Green pepper gazpacho, creme fraiche, mint Washington state oyster (raw), hot sauce, toasted sourdough crumbs Hard-boiled quail egg stuffed with smoked trout roe Potato crisp (cylindrical), filled with chipotle sour cream Raw Scallop, grilled cucumber, almond pesto Bronzino, hozon, shredded (dried?) radish Spanish mackerel tataki, watermelon, black sesame oil, kimchi Asparagus/scallion/jalapeño salad, tomato water vinaigrette “Main” Courses Lightly smoked trout, grilled romaine, parmesan, hozon Potato puree, potato broth, scallion, American caviar Grilled cuttlefish and rice cake, sishito pepper and lemon puree Carpaccio of 60-day aged beef, dried chicken and duck, porcini milk, celery Siphoned and poached egg, bacon dashi, shio kombu Roasted lobster, laminated brioche, herb salad w/myoga, siphoned lobster sauce Fresh farfalle pasta, cheddar sauce, bacon fat, peas, nettles Slow-cooked halibut, pickled cucumber, tomato/Indian lime pickle sauce Roast rack of heritage pork, white kimchi, caramelized red onion, chili oil gravy Shaved foie, lychee, pinenut brittle, yuzu/Riesling gelee Desserts Fluffy sweet goat cheese mousse over graham crust, calamansi sorbet, shiso “Tres leches” cake filled w/black sesame, plums, dulce de leche gelato Strawberries, cream, green tomato sorbet, candied buckwheat, strawberry/elderflower soda Fermented chickpea and blueberry macaroon
  6. Oh, no! A couple of weeks ago, I was looking on FB to see if I could get anyone to come to Naz with me for the same reason. I should have known to come and look here.
  7. ariggsby

    Siphon to make dumplings?

    At a restaurant last weekend, I had a poached egg, but instead of just cracking the egg into the water it was shot out of an isi siphon. This got me wondering about making very light poached dumplings by putting batter in a siphon and dispensing into a poaching liquid (or even, if I weren't worried about the splatter, into a fryer). Has anybody tried this? Does it work? Thanks in advance, Andrew
  8. ariggsby

    Making Fresh Masa

    I'm a Texan recently removed to Rome, and I'm feeling an increasing need for several masa based dishes. Looking at this thread and elsewhere, it seems to me that the choke-point here will be the grinding. I'm pretty sure I can't get a Mexican corn grinder, but I do have access to a general-purpose (meat) grinder. There was some brief discussion above, but it didn't look to me like anyone had actually tried this. Any help? Andrew
  9. ariggsby

    Dos Brisas

    We went there for my birthday a couple of months ago and had the veg. tasting menu. I'm still not entirely sure what to make of it. The room is great. The service is absolutely first rate. The several dishes we had were all expertly prepared and presented. The menu as a whole was ever so slightly disappointing because (1) while everything (8 courses) was very good, there were only one or two real wow moments, and (2) that effect was magnified by a certain sameness between dishes. They seemed to rely very heavily on their own garden vegg and fresh cheese, which is obviously good at one level, but did produce a certain sameness. I think that if I could go back in time, I'd still go there (the chef is clearly really, really good) and have the regular prix fixe instead. One other thing to think about. It is really expensive. I had a dinner at Daniel in NYC a month later that cost considerably less (if you don't count the plane ticket) and was a complete show-stopper. I don't know how you feel about paying those kinds of prices in Texas. Andrew
  10. ariggsby

    Olivia

    Based on my minimal experience (exactly one meal), "good" certainly doesn't do Olivia justice, but the idea that this was really one of the top ten new restaurants in the country is an absurdity that can only be explained by a need for geographical diversity. (Feast in Houston, on the other hand, might actually qualify.) That said, there's a lot to like at Olivia. They're good about being local and seasonal. Partly as a result, the menu changes a fair amount. They have a lot of unusual items (like the justly famous lamb tounge) and unusual combinations of more "normal" ingredients (peach gazpacho). They have a good balance between serious and casual. Prices are not crazy. The problem with the food, and this was the case with nearly every one of the 7 dishes we had at that meal, was that the idea was a little better than the execution. It was hard to taste the peach in that gazpacho; one dish was way too sweet, one too salty. Now, certainly the people behind Olivia know how to cook. I wonder if the rotation (of a slightly longish menu) sometimes gets the better of them? Clearly Austin is better off to have this restaurant, and it is probably unfair to penalize them for not being as good as they could be (when that still puts them ahead of most of the competition). Still, I couldn't help be a little disappointed. Andrew
  11. ariggsby

    Belfast

    I was just there a couple of weeks ago and had very fine lunches at both Deane's and his deli/bistro. Andrew
  12. This is a problem, and in the whole state, not just Dallas. In that context of lowered expectations, however, you could do a lot worse than Nana in Dallas, where we had an excellent dinner (the lacto-ovo-vegetarian tasting menu) last week. Not super-avant-garde, but very, very good. Maybe some day... Andrew
  13. ariggsby

    Dallas: Indian Restaurants?

    Thanks for the info. I like the Clay Pit here, but I assume the one up there isn't much different. I'll keep an eye out for the Pyles place; sounds very interesting. Andrew
  14. ariggsby

    Dallas: Indian Restaurants?

    I live in Austin, but am always excited to go to Indika when I'm in Houston. I'll be in Dallas on business soon, and I was wondering if there are comparable Indian restaurants up there? I guess I'm more interested in a skilled and inventive chef than absolutely rigorous "authenticity." Andrew
  15. ariggsby

    The Dewhurst Bill

    I was questioning the calmness of the blog post I quoted on the other side of the debate. Your posts here have been, I agree, totally reasonable. Andrew
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