Classic French Crème Brulée - The Topic

[gfron1]

just letting you know I'm fascinated by this and can't wait til you find the perfect one. So, are these all being eaten?

[Intellidepth]

gfron1: the gaping mouth of my kitchen sink is devouring most of them.

Apologies for this long post... its here for future generations

‘Crème’ Experiment 6

Texture: very thick creme, like double-cream/King Island Cream for those in Australia.

Sweetness: just enough to enhance the vanilla

Vanilla: enough to be distinctive without turning it into a full vanilla custard flavour

Recipe:

4 yolks from 59g eggs

¼ cup sugar

1 tsp vanilla extract

375ml cream (1 ½ cups)

125ml milk (1/2 cup)

(Serves 4)

-----

Oven 150*C. Rack in centre of oven. Boil water in kettle.

Mix yolks, sugar and extract with silicone spatula in 1L jug.

Heat cream and milk to 85*C in heavy-based medium saucepan, stirring gently. Take off heat, continue to stir and cool to 75*C to avoid scrambling when tempering (dairy mix may rise to 90*C before dropping).

Temper egg mix: very slowly pour dairy mix into yolk mix by teaspoonfuls (approx.) incorporating well after each addition. After about 5 teaspoons, start adding in tablespoon quantities and then ¼ cup quantities until about 1/3rd of the egg mix is tempered, then add the rest of the dairy mix and stir briefly.

Strain into another 1L jug.

Skim off bubbles.

Pour into ramekins gently.

Torch fine bubbles to remove them. A domestic gas lighter is fine.

Individually foil seal the ramekins (double layer) and place in thin metal tray.

Water bath 1/8th inch using boiled water in thin metal tray.

Bake: 55-60 minutes. Bench-top cool-down to room temp with foil removed to prevent condensation.

Refrigerate overnight, covered with plastic wrap.

Equipment:

2 x 1L jugs

5ml teaspoon

63ml cup (¼ cup) measure

250ml cup (1 cup) measure

2 x silicone spatulas or wooden spoons

Heavy-based medium saucepan

Candy thermometer

Fine strainer to fit in/over a 1L jug

Domestic gas lighter

Foil

Thin metal tray(s)

Ramekins: four x 2½” wide x 2” tall

Notes of wisdom: cooking time will depend on the size, shape, thickness and density of ramekins, the thickness of the metal tray, and the temperamentality of one’s oven.

Notes of regret: reducing the bake time by 10 minutes (from 60) didn't affect the tiny overcooked top edge which may have to do with the shape of my ramekins - widening towards the top.

Notes of interest: it's amazing how close this recipe is to the original considering every ingredient received alteration and experimentation.

And thus ceases my interest in my favourite dessert for a few months.

Edited December 22, 2007 by Intellidepth (log)

[jsmeeker]

This is a great thread. I love custards of all types. I've made creme caramels, pot de cremes, etc. before with good results. But I never made creme brulee because I never had or got around to buying a torch to do the actual brulee. Well, I received a small kitchen torch as a Christmas gift, and I finally got around to making some creme brulee last weekend.

As I've read through this thread, most of the talk has been about how to bake them. Water bath or not. Convection oven or conventional. Oven temp. etc. There has also been some suggestions on how to deal with bubbles (something I ran into in my attempt last weekend), the best way to brulee (equipment, type of sugar, etc). It's all been very informative and I have learned some things. (skim off bubbles/and or use the torch to get rid of them prior to baking. Suggestions to let the custard mixture to sit overnight in the fridge prior to baking. Stuff like that.

But one thing I haven't seen too much discussion on is the actual custard mixture. One thing I have been frustrated with in looking at recipes is that the ones I find from sources I trust tend to be sized to make a lot of servings. Like eight. While this may be great if you are hosting a dinner party, it's not so great if you are single and don't host big dinner parties. Sure, I could eat a couple of them each day, but that may not be the best idea long term.

So, in my attempt to figure out how to make a more manageable number of servings, I started to think about ratios. Most specifically, the ratio of egg to dairy. I started to look at some recipes from trusted sources (Cook's Illustrated). I also read through a book I recieved as part of my Christmas gift. What I found was that a ratio of 3 eggs to 1 cup cream was pretty "standard". Armed with this new found knowledge and my new Creme Brulee cookbook, I headed to the kitchen. Instead of following the recipe to a "T", which would make six servings, I essentially halfed it. The ratio of egg yolk to cream stayed the same. I used 3 yolks and 1 cup of cream. I cut back some on the amount of vanilla bean I put into the cream. I kind of halfed the amount of sugar called for (used a couple of table spoons). Poured it out into three pyrex custard cups (which yielded a proper portion for each) and baked them in a water bath at about 300. I checked them at about 30 minutes. They seemed to have goen past the still jiggly in the middle phase. I got a little worried that maybe they had over baked. I let them cool for several hours. Pulled one out, sprinked on the sugar, torched it, stuck it back in the fridge for about 15 minutes, then pulled it back out and ate it.

It was great! I thought the texture was just fine. Maybe it could have been a little softer, but it seemed to be inline with a lot of creme brulees I've had in restaurants. So, armed with my knowledge, it seems like making creme brulee is easily scaleable. If I need to make 4, I use 4 eggs and 1 1/3 cups of cream. It should work, shouldn't it?

I think I'll make up a new batch of custard tonight. But this time, I'll let it sit over night before baking. Also, I am going to try a espresso flavored variation. Instant espresso powder disolved in a bit of water will go into the egg/cream mixture. I may add a splash of coffee liqueur as well. (my book calls for this). If I get any bubbles on the top after pouring into the little dishes, I'll torch them away. (I love using the torch). And I'll keep a better eye on the baking time. Check them earlier this time around.

Anyway, thanks again for all the tips/tricks so far. If you have any about the ratios of egg to dairy (cream), fire away. I love, love, love custards, and will happily experiment with making them.

[iii_bake]

This is a great thread.  I love custards of all types.  I've made creme caramels, pot de cremes, etc.  before with good results. But I never made creme brulee because I never had or got around to buying a torch to do the actual brulee.  Well,  I received a small kitchen torch as a Christmas gift, and I finally got around to making some creme brulee last weekend.

As I've read through this thread, most of the talk has been about how to bake them. Water bath or not. Convection oven or conventional.  Oven temp. etc.  There has also been some suggestions on how to deal with bubbles (something I ran into in my attempt last weekend), the best way to brulee (equipment, type of sugar, etc).  It's all been very informative and I have learned some things.  (skim off bubbles/and or use the torch to get rid of them prior to baking.  Suggestions to let the custard mixture to sit overnight in the fridge prior to baking. Stuff like that.

But one thing I haven't seen too much discussion on is the actual custard mixture.  One thing I have been frustrated with in looking at recipes is that the ones I find from sources I trust tend to be sized to make a lot of servings. Like eight.  While this may be great if you are hosting a dinner party, it's not so great if you are single and don't host big dinner parties. Sure, I could eat a couple of them each day, but that may not be the best idea long term. 

So, in my attempt to figure out how to make a more manageable number of servings, I started to think about ratios.  Most specifically, the ratio of egg to dairy.  I started to look at some recipes from trusted sources (Cook's Illustrated).  I also read through a book I recieved as part of my Christmas gift.  What I found was that  a ratio of 3 eggs to 1 cup cream was pretty "standard". Armed with this new found knowledge and my new Creme Brulee cookbook,  I headed to the kitchen.    Instead of following the recipe to a "T", which would make six servings, I essentially halfed it.  The ratio of egg yolk to cream stayed the same.  I used 3 yolks and 1 cup of cream.  I cut back some on the amount of vanilla bean I put into the cream.  I kind of halfed the amount of sugar called for (used a couple of table spoons).  Poured it out into three pyrex custard cups (which yielded a proper portion for each)  and baked them in a water bath at about 300.  I checked them at about 30 minutes.  They seemed to have goen past the still jiggly in the middle phase.  I got a little worried that maybe they had over baked.  I let them cool for several hours.  Pulled one out, sprinked on the sugar, torched it, stuck it back in the fridge for about 15 minutes, then pulled it back out and ate it.

It was great!  I thought the texture was just fine.  Maybe it could have been a little softer, but it seemed to be inline with a lot of creme brulees I've had in restaurants.  So, armed with my knowledge, it seems like making creme brulee is easily scaleable.    If I need to make 4,  I use 4 eggs and 1 1/3 cups of cream.  It should work, shouldn't it?

I think I'll make up a new batch of custard tonight. But this time, I'll let it sit over night before baking.  Also, I am going to try a espresso flavored variation.  Instant espresso powder disolved in a bit of water will go into the egg/cream mixture. I may add a splash of coffee liqueur as well. (my book calls for this).  If I get any bubbles on the top after pouring into the little dishes, I'll torch them away. (I love using the torch). And I'll keep a better eye on the baking time. Check them earlier this time around.

Anyway, thanks again for all the tips/tricks so far. If you have any about the ratios of egg to dairy (cream),  fire away.    I love, love, love custards, and will happily experiment with making them.

←

did the vanilla seed sink to the bottom?

[jsmeeker]

did the vanilla seed sink to the bottom?

←

yes it did.. I forgot to mention that.

[alanamoana]

jsmeeker: if you've chilled your brulee for several hours, there's no need to put it back in the fridge after torching. just torch and let it sit until the sugar gets hard again (should be within a minute or two) and eat!

[jsmeeker]

jsmeeker:  if you've chilled your brulee for several hours, there's no need to put it back in the fridge after torching.  just torch and let it sit until the sugar gets hard again (should be within a minute or two) and eat!

←

thanks for the tip.. I'll give it a try on the next batch.

The brief chill after torching was a tip I had picked up from the Cook's Illustrated folks.

[alanamoana]

i think it might only be a consideration if the torch is too weak and it takes too long to caramelize the sugar. if that's the case, the custard underneath sort of melts and warms up so you need to put it back into the fridge to allow the custard and sugar to firm up.

using a torch from home depot (bernz-o-matic) with a propane tank, this shouldn't be a problem. i don't know how big or how hot your particular torch is...half the fun in being a pastry chef is the pyromaniac factor!

[jsmeeker]

i think it might only be a consideration if the torch is too weak and it takes too long to caramelize the sugar.  if that's the case, the custard underneath sort of melts and warms up so you need to put it back into the fridge to allow the custard and sugar to firm up.

using a torch from home depot (bernz-o-matic) with a propane tank, this shouldn't be a problem.  i don't know how big or how hot your particular torch is...half the fun in being a pastry chef is the pyromaniac factor! 

←

it''s the only torch I have used, so I can't compare it to a plumber's torch. I'll just try torching and letting it sit a minute or two next time (which will be tonight). I'll report back.

[Art]

I've never been too pleased with the wimpy kitchen torches used for Creme Brulee for a whole host of reasons. Besides not being as hot as I'd like, I've not found one that I have been happy with from a quality standpoint. I know there are some really expensive mini-torches used industrially but these are very expensive (often a few hundred dollars).

So, what I have ended up using is a MAPP gas torch. This uses basically the same head as those el-cheapo propane torches from the hardware store but the MAPP gas is hotter and what's more isn't prone to going out or gas pressure fluctuations like the propane torches are.

The MAPP gas is a bit more expensive than propane but Oh, so worth it....

Go look for it in the plumbing or tool section of your local hardware store and I'm sure you will be satisfied.

-Art

[CalumC]

I've not looked at this thread before, but by the looks of it, when making creme brulee you all bake them in a bain marie in the oven. Anytime i've made them, ive made a custard on the stove and chilled it, then caramelised the sugar on top of it. Is this an odd method?

[JeanneCake]

No, it's just different. Roland Mesnier uses this method for the creme brulees in his books and I can attest to the fact that his Champagne Creme Brulee with sugared grapes is a big hit!

[misstenacity]

Has anyone made a creme brulee where the ONLY sugar was in the brulee - the custard below is just cream and eggs.... not even vanilla to mess with the flavor.

Is this the "true" creme brulee? Or is vanilla bean the accepted formula (should this be on the purist thread?)? :-)

[KevinS]

So, this may seem silly to a lot of you guys, but I am having serious trouble being consistent with my Crème brûlées at the place that I work at.

I do not cook them, I only put the sugar on the top and torch them before sending them out, but they seem to never be consistent. Sometimes they come out beautiful and perfect, sometimes it seems to be way too thin, sometimes the sugar never sets, and I'm pretty sure I'm doing the same method every time!

I have such different results during the same day, so I know something like humidity probably isn't to blame. I'm sure it's me, I just don't know why.

Any ideas?

P.S. My method for sugaring them is to pour the sugar on top, turn the brulée to let it get everywhere, and turn it upside down to let the excess fall off, and then repeat, then burn. This is how I was shown to do it, if anyone has any better ways I am totally open to suggestions!

[cookingkid]

On a similar vein as problems with custards, I am noticing a separation of my custard for a pot de creme. The only reason why I know it looks like a separation is because we serve them in 8 oz. mason jars.

The separation doesn't always occur, or at least it doesn't occur in a patterned fashion. The part on top (same 2/3 of the container) tastes and feels like a traditional custard. The bottom 1/3 is set but tastes eggier.

I originally thought we weren't stirring the custard base enough before putting it in the vessels. Now, I'm wondering if removing the custards from the bain upon being set might be the problem. In other words, should I keep the custards in the bain marie during the cool down of the pots?

Thanks if anyone has some advice.

[pastrygirl]

P.S. My method for sugaring them is to pour the sugar on top, turn the brulée to let it get everywhere, and turn it upside down to let the excess fall off, and then repeat, then burn.  This is how I was shown to do it, if anyone has any better ways I am totally open to suggestions!

←

Kevin, I'm not sure what you mean by you don't cook your brulees (don't use a broiler/salamander?), but I feel that you really need to do an attentive sprinkling with your sugar to get a nice crust. Do some of your custards get a little wet in top? If you're not dabbing that off with a towel, your wetter custards are going to absorb a lot more sugar when you pour it on top, and your drier ones are going to absorb less - that may be part of your inconsisitency. I feel that creme brulee needs a bit more than just what will stick. If a layer of sugar one grain thick will stick to the top of a relatively dry custard, I think you need a layer about three grains thick, just enough so you can't see the custard through the sugar. Of course, you can do too much, then it will puddle and burn. Practice, practice!

[Pam R]

Has anybody tried creme brulee with coconut milk rather than dairy? I'd like a non-dairy version.

[Leah Kinsella]

I'm having  a problem getting my creme brulees (cremes brulee ?) perfect.  The custard is smooth, but when I bake it, some of the portions develop a soft, foamy top that I don't like.  Is there a trick to getting a smooth, firm top ?  The two things I suspect I'm doing wrong are:

1) Beating the custard with an electric beater rather than a whisk.  The surface gets foamy, but I skim all the foam off.  Still, I wonder if using a whisk, at least when adding the cream to the egg mixture would reduce foaming.

2) Amount of water in the bain marie.  Could it be that I don't enough (or that I have too) water ?  I fill to just below the top of the custard in the ramekins. 

Anyone ?

  - S

←

You want enough water in the Baine Marie to cover the same amount of liquid (approx) in the glass, but make sure the water in the Baine Marie is already boiled. And if you getting a lot of foam, I would either suggest finding a new recipe or use a whisk and stir gently, just enough to mix the ingredients and that is all Middle rack, good idea. If at any point the top turns a little to dark for your likeing, TIN FOIL

If none of this works for you, rest the baked dish in the fridge for 24 hrs, it will set.

[Jan Stoel]

I make mine in a low heated oven (about 100C/210F) in a water bath (warm milk/cream/vanilla --> temper egg yolks --> bake --> cool etc).

I do have a question. When you bake the brulees at the end the vanilla always ends up on the bottom and the brulee is topped by a thin yellow line. Is there a way for the vanilla seeds to be evenly distributed and not get the yellow top with the oven method, so not the stovetop method? The only thing I can think of is making a creme anglaise and bake that in the oven to make a creme brulee, but that is more labour intensive.

Thanks. See picture below for my brulee.

As for the top sugar layer. I always caramelise sugar, let it cool down, cut it up in a food processor, sprinkle it on top and 'melt it together' with a blow torch. Works like a charm.

[Chris Ward]

So let's get the history out of the way: No, it wasn't invented at Cambridge University in the 19th century; it existed at least as far back as the 17th century in France, Catalan, Flanders and elsewhere. Because frankly, the idea of mixing together eggs, milk and cream isn't something that takes hundreds of years of thought to come up with.

And yes, some people call it 'burnt cream'. Some people also eat burgers while walking down the road.

There's a line, somewhere, between crème brulée, flans, crème patissière, custard, crème anglaise and all the other set creams. Not to mention pana cotta, custard cream and so on. 

I have two recipes for crème brulée: a refined one using just egg yolks, cream and sugar; and this quick and dirty one which is, I confess, more like a flan than a real crème brulée. Whatev.

This one calls for a dozen whole eggs - not yolks separated out, whole eggs; I told you this one was quick and dirty - 1.4 litres of cream and milk mixed in whatever proportions you like - I used 40cl of cream and a litre of milk this time - 200g of sugar, a teaspoon of vanilla extract and a pinch of salt. I put a pinch of salt in lots of things.

Combine all the ingredients in a bowl and whizz them together with the mixer of your choice. I used a hand-held stick mixer this time. You just need them all combined together.

I then pour this mixture into a jug as it makes the next stage, pouring into ramekins, easier.

These quantities gave me enough mixture for 18 ramekins.

I set them in a baking tray and add boiling water to the tray, about halfway up the sides of the ramekin. This bain marie ensures that the crèmes don't burn on the bottom - water keeps the temperature to a maximum of 100°C. Top tip: put the bain marie as close to your oven as possible, then add the water to save carrying a heavy, boiling hot pan across your kitchen.

They go into a warm oven at about 150°C for 20 minutes when I turn them around to ensure they cook evenly. I check them again after 20 minutes to see if they're set - just shake the baking tray gently to see how they wobble. If the mixture in the centre of each ramekins wobbles more than the outside, they're not quite cooked yet. When the mixture wobbles as one, they're done. If the tops are starting to brown and they're still not set, cover with aluminium foil to stop them browning further. This time it took 45 minutes for everything to be set properly

Once cooked, remove them from the oven and the bain marie and allow to cool before refrigerating them.

Just before serving, sprinkle a half teaspoon or so of sugar on top and caramelise it with your blowtorch - I now use one which uses cigarette lighter refill fluid, although I've used regular plumbers' ones before.

Allow the caramel to cool and harden before eating.

You can flavour the crème with many different things: I've used basil, rosemary, lemon verbena, lavender and other herbs from the garden many times. You heat up the milk and/or cream with the herb in it and allow it to infuse for an hour or so before making the crème.

You can also add fruits in the bottom of the ramekin - strawberries, raspberries, blueberries, banana, whatever takes your fancy.

[JohnT]

You have a rack / grid on the bottom of your bain marie?

[Chris Ward]

32 minutes ago, JohnT said:

You have a rack / grid on the bottom of your bain marie?

No, the whole pan sits on a grid in the oven. The ramekins themselves have a slightly concave bottom which allows for a pocket of water, and the system seems to work well. If i were poaching, say, a foie gras terrine in a bain marie then yes, I would use a grid in the bottom of the pan. 

[JohnT]

Thanks, it just looked like a grid between the gap of the bottom right hand ramekin and the one to the left of it.

[Chris Ward]

Ah ok. It's just a ridge in the pan. 

[Anna N]

 I'm quite interested and my math skills are probably sufficient to reduce the recipe but I wonder why you would make 18 except in a restaurant or for a catering gig. Do you routinely make this many for your family?