Minor Paris Report, Late 2022

[Steve R.]

One of the (many) things we love about Paris is that we could spend a month there, eating at more than a month’s worth of restaurants (as we just did in Oct) then you can tag team afterwards and eat at great places - and there’s no duplication.  An affordable, accessible and varied food city like just about no other.

[weinoo]

3 hours ago, Steve R. said:

 An affordable, accessible and varied food city like just about no other.

 

Certainly not as affordable as eating in Florence!

[rotuts]

or other places in France .

 

their is a premium for Paris

 

as there is for NYC

 

and similar places .

 

there is an ambience for Paris 

 

and an ambience for Tours 

 

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tours

 

some time ago 

 

the espresso I had in Tours  was 2.5 FF

 

later that day , in Paris 

 

( by a major Bus Station , while waiting for my mother  an ordinary city place ) 

 

3.5 FF    it was fine , the one in Tour a bit less hectic .

 

however , the experience is itself , and the cost a different matter.

 

as i said 

 

a menu or two from 

 

this MPR

 

in front of me

 

priceless 

[ambra]

Everyone I know who has been to Paris in the past year has complained about the prices. I have been wondering if they are just choosing wrong. 

[weinoo]

2 hours ago, ambra said:

Everyone I know who has been to Paris in the past year has complained about the prices. I have been wondering if they are just choosing wrong. 

 

I really can't complain, but I'l note that I'd say a 20 - 30% increase across the board (for food) is not uncommon (compared to our last trip, pre-pandemic, in February, 2020). 

 

Wine prices are probably more stable than food prices, at least when drinking French wines.

Edited February 3, 2023 by weinoo (log)

[weinoo]

Another night, after I'd spied a recommendation to someone else from an acquaintance (of someone else), we ventured a little further afield, deep into the 18th.  Really like this neighborhood.

 

Le Bistrot du Maquis

 

When the menu comes out like this, we are happy people...

 

 

2 courses - 37€ ; 3 courses 42€

 

My gorgeous galantine,...(I had a hard time deciding between this and the langue de veau)

 

 

This came.,..

 

 

And my main, also a chicken course...

 

 

Also, very good.

 

A cheese, and then dessert were also consumed...

 

 

If you're there, go here.

[KennethT]

5 minutes ago, weinoo said:

Another night, after I'd spied a recommendation to someone else from an acquaintance (of someone else), we ventured a little further afield, deep into the 18th.  Really like this neighborhood.

 

Le Bistrot du Maquis

 

When the menu comes out like this, we are happy people...

 

 

2 courses - 37€ ; 3 courses 42€

 

My gorgeous galantine,...(I had a hard time deciding between this and the langue de veau)

 

 

This came.,..

 

 

And my main, also a chicken course...

 

 

Also, very good.

 

A cheese, and then dessert were also consumed...

 

 

If you're there, go here.

That duck with the blood sauce would be calling my name... extra surcharge or not!!!

[weinoo]

1 hour ago, KennethT said:

That duck with the blood sauce would be calling my name... extra surcharge or not!!!

 

Yeah - but it has to be ordered like 2 days in advance; when we go back, it's on my list!

[Steve R.]

Maybe this same place was more inexpensive 3 years ago but its current offerings and the meal you obviously had is exactly what I meant.  I never heard of it while there, its not hard to get to & its pricing extremely affordable (in my opinion).  If I go back there soon, I’ll be there.  Thanks.

[weinoo]

1 hour ago, Steve R. said:

Maybe this same place was more inexpensive 3 years ago but its current offerings and the meal you obviously had is exactly what I meant.  I never heard of it while there, its not hard to get to & its pricing extremely affordable (in my opinion).  If I go back there soon, I’ll be there.  Thanks.

 

Yes, I'm possibly referring to the general overall price hikes. Cheeses in the cheese shop, fruit and veg in the grocery, an espresso or filter coffee out, cocktails  - you know, like everything here, they've all gone up.  I also think finding places like Le Bistrot du Maquis has become a bit harder.

 

On further reflection, prices have not risen as dramatically as, let's say here in New York City.

 

We're not people who eat a ton of street food. But we were walking back to the apartment in the drizzling rain one day, and there was a tiny street market.

 

\

 

With some nice, and some weird, products.

 

And, there was a lady making these; we couldn't resist...

 

 

One for each of us, and they were quite good.

[Margaret Pilgrim]

I'm late to this incredible thread.   Thanks, joe, for sharing the feast.

[Okanagancook]

@weinoothank you for sharing your experience here.  Fascinating and drool worthy.

[weinoo]

Les routiers were at one time the roadside truck stop restaurants, located all around France; they may still exist, but since I haven't been a truck driver in France (unless maybe in a previous life), I can't confirm. But what I can guess is that just as the classic diners of America have gone by the wayside, the routiers have been slowly disappearing as well.

 

However, all is not lost, as a number of restaurants literally with the imprimatur of  Les Routiers, are catering to Parisians who miss them...or perhaps what they stood for. At least 3 are open and thriving in the city of lights.

 

We like the one in the 11th, walking distance from where we stay. I have a hunch @Steve R. may have eaten here as well.

 

Aux Bons Crus

 

Our 2nd trip to Aux Bons Crus, because we liked it last time, though last time was quite some time ago. The food may not be the most photogenic, but it's delicious.

 

 

Oeufs.

 

 

Stuffed cabbage. Oh - Chou Farci, if you insist.

 

 

Mine! 

 

With (I think) one of @Margaret Pilgrim's favorites:

 

 

An Alsatian Riesling to drink with that choucroute.  Recommended. And budget friendly.

 

Edited February 8, 2023 by weinoo (log)

[Margaret Pilgrim]

Simple but correct plates.  

[Steve R.]

Mitch, your hunch is correct.  We’ve eaten there more than a couple of times, as its been convenient to the places we’ve rented in the 11th & has always served us food that is interesting & tasty.  While not quite up to general Lyon bouchon standards, the double order of Quenelles is always one of my favorites, and the frisee aux lardons is a must as well.

[weinoo]

10 hours ago, Steve R. said:

Mitch, your hunch is correct.  We’ve eaten there more than a couple of times, as its been convenient to the places we’ve rented in the 11th & has always served us food that is interesting & tasty.  While not quite up to general Lyon bouchon standards, the double order of Quenelles is always one of my favorites, and the frisee aux lardons is a must as well.

 

If they're both on the menu (as they are now), I'll order them next time!

Just satisfying food, at a reasonable price.  Same with the wines. And very lovely service.

[DianaB]

Many French diners eat their main meal at midday and there are plenty of small bistros offering prix fixes “Les routiers” style menus for those with a 2 to 3 hour lunch break.  3 courses for between 15 and 20 euros seems to be the average price.  Best to go for the dish of the day.  These places won’t be open in the evening but if you can adapt your eating habits they can be extremely pleasant ways to observe ordinary life.

 

Out of Paris there has been a resurgence in roadside bistros, thanks in part to the popularity of Top Chef etc.  Décent 3 course menus with wine for 12 to 15 euros (many French diners will have a “ticket restaurant” as an employee perk that covers the first 10 euros).  
 

Of course one can eat extremely well in the evening but those on a budget might find more choice at lunch time. 

[CeejayB]

On 1/30/2023 at 2:35 AM, weinoo said:

After our visit to Florence, our second and final stop was Paris. We've stayed in the same apartment a couple of times; it's located on Square du Temple Elie Wiesel, with a view of the square from its windows.  It's around the corner from Rue de Bretagne, home to any number of fine food shopping establishments.

 

There's the Marché des Enfants Rouges, established sometime in the 1600s. Fun to walk through, maybe grab a bite or a quick glass of wine.  Nearby are a couple of groceries; I wish my grocery here at home did something like this...

 

 

 

Lots of oysters! To take home!! (Here on the lower east side, they're more likely to be selling weed...https://www.instagram.com/p/Clt3VDTOlsU/?hl=en)

 

There's an amazing cheese shop, which we take advantage of...

 

 

Chocolate, butcher, patisserie, etc. all within a stone's throw - it's great.

 

Our first night in Paris, we met an old friend for dinner.

 

L'Attache

 

 

 

 

 

All the tableware reveals itself as you finish up the dish.  The food was good (wine great); the plates are...interesting.

 

 

This is a cool idea!