Thomas Keller's Ad Hoc at Home

[OliverB]

for temporary relieve from hunger?

Is that something they sell? Please do report how it turns out, should you make it. The book? I love it :-)

[Paul Kierstead]

Received Ad Hoc at Home on Friday, and made a few things saturday night.

Course 1

Caramelized Sea Scallops. I served it on a little bed of arugula with some apricot preserve drizzled around the perimeter, and a light sprinkle of fleur de sel. The flavour was fantastic; they were moist and totally lovely with great texture and flavour. The cooking procedure was a little iffy. I could not get his brine to fully dissolve the salt (2 cups kosther salt in a total of 10 cups water); I may not have had the initial 2 cups water warm enough, though I don't know if 2 cups of salt can be dissolved in 2 cups water no matter how warm. When I did the caramelization, some of the scallops went awry and did not release. This caused those stuck bits to burn and generated some smoke and also left me some uncaramelized scallops; in spite of this, they (all of them) tasted wonderful, but the fully caramelized ones did indeed have some extra flavour. I was a little ticked on the caramelization thing, so no pics. I think I was betrayed by my pan here; I should know better by now. It is an *extremely* thick demeyere pan and almost inevitably holds heat better then instructions assume when the cold food hits it, so I usually back off the heat some. I had already backed if off some due the stove, I should have done a bit more for the pan.

Course 2

Wild Cod en Persillade on top of Nantes Carrot Stew and Asparagus Coins. I also added some baby new potatoes, boiled and tossed with a bit of butter and S&P, I used Halibut, as suggested by the recipe as one of the substitutions, because the Halibut looked at lot better than the cod at the fish mongers. The "cod" (halibut) was delicious, totally wonderful, and dead easy. I'll note it was very good fish to start (and should be at its price, $17 for one moderate fillet). In addition, the dish was extremely easy and quick. The carrots were a little more complicated (especially since I couldn't find carrot juice and had to make my own) but were also extremely good and will be repeated. Even my g/f, who "doesn't like carrots" loved them and devoured them. The Asparagus Coins were good, maybe even quite good, but I doubt will be repeated. They are a bit of hassle, requiring chive oil (which I happened to have) and parsley water (which I had to make), and honestly weren't really better than some nice broiled or grilled asparagus. However, in fairness, I was stuck using peruvian asparagus, which I won't normally use, so that could have been a limiting fact. I think the potatoes rounded it out nicely and make it a pretty fulfilling meal. On a weeknight (when we eat less), I'd likely omit it and sub the asparagus with something else.

pic:

Our last course was a blueberry turnover from a local bakery. Good pastry, so-so filling. I need some pasty skills.

Also, on Sunday night, I used his method of preparing duck confit for use in a salad (a little different then most suggestions) and it was fantastic.

Edited October 27, 2009 by Paul Kierstead (log)

[Aloha Steve]

I couldn't decide whether to post this here or in the Ad Hoc at Home topic. In the opening pages of , Keller lists what he considers to be four essential counter top appliances:

• vita-mix
  
• stand mixer
  
• scale
  
• food processor
  

Scanning through the recipes, I've yet to find one that gives weight-based measurements. Why oh why would you explicitly tell people to go out and plunk down for a scale and then just as explicitly prevent them from using it to cook your food? It's even more frustrating given that most (all?) of the previous Keller books have given measurements in both units, so presumably he can twist an editor's arm.

This post by vice is in "Cookbooks That Use Weight-Based Measurements" discussion.

IF #1, having Vita-Mix is essential for his recipes, its a deal-breaker for me at this point to get this book. I simply do not have the room for it.

Can you folks weigh in here who have handled the book with your opinions please.

Edited October 27, 2009 by Aloha Steve (log)

[vice]

I did see that his brine recipes do give weights for salt, but not for other seasonings. Most meat/poultry/fish dishes seem to include approximate weights for the main protein, but not for anything else.

[violetfox]

I certainly don't intend to get a Vita-Mix any time in the foreseeable future. While I do need to get a scale, primarily for baking, it doesn't seem to make much sense to list a scale and not use weight-based measurements in the book.

Hm.

I couldn't decide whether to post this here or in the Ad Hoc at Home topic. In the opening pages of , Keller lists what he considers to be four essential counter top appliances:

• vita-mix
  
• stand mixer
  
• scale
  
• food processor
  

Scanning through the recipes, I've yet to find one that gives weight-based measurements. Why oh why would you explicitly tell people to go out and plunk down for a scale and then just as explicitly prevent them from using it to cook your food? It's even more frustrating given that most (all?) of the previous Keller books have given measurements in both units, so presumably he can twist an editor's arm.

This post by vice is in "Cookbooks That Use Weight-Based Measurements" discussion.

IF #1, having Vita-Mix is essential for his recipes, its a deal-breaker for me at this point to get this book. I simply do not have the room for it.

Can you folks weigh in here who have handled the book with your opinions please.

[Paul Kierstead]

IF #1, having Vita-Mix is essential for his recipes, its a deal-breaker for me at this point to get this book. I simply do not have the room for it.

He loves things whizzed together and then thoroughly strained. Ad Hoc doesn't seem to have changed that. I'd suggest that what is required is a very very good blender. I had a blender, thought it was kinda useless. I bought a KA, and it is a *huge* improvement; it is one of those appliances where the gaps in performance are much larger then they should be. Now I know my KA is not a vita-mix, and I would really love to have the full variable speed of a vita-mix (*), but I believe any good blender will do the trick.

PK

(*) A good example of that was when I made the parsley water. My KA has a supposed 'soft-start' but still tended to flick the solids all up the side on start, causing grief. A real slow start would be very handy for that; a lot less stopping and scraping down. But you can make do. OTOH, I've made things like chive oil, for example, which is blended 'to death' (or steaming, actually...), and the KA did a lovely job on it.

[OliverB]

I still didn't get around to cook from this book, reading the Amazon reviews, it seems that there might be some errors here and there, particularly the brine for the above scallops is mentioned. It's quite sad that most recipes don't have weights, just the usual cups and spoons. Despite the fact that Keller calls for a good scale to be essential at the beginning of the book.

I'm pretty sure he uses Diamond Krystal Salt, and it's important to use the same if it's just called for in cups/spoons.

[dougal]

... It's quite sad that most recipes don't have weights, just the usual cups and spoons. Despite the fact that Keller calls for a good scale to be essential at the beginning of the book.

I'm pretty sure he uses Diamond Krystal Salt, and it's important to use the same if it's just called for in cups/spoons.

Thanks for that. You've just saved me £25.

For me, and probably many others - especially outside the US, its a deal-breaker.

[Paul Kierstead]

Come now, it is easy enough to convert the volumes to weights. I am sure someone here who has access to diamond crystal willing to weigh some out for out if google doesn't cough it up.

Edited October 28, 2009 by Paul Kierstead (log)

[Chris Amirault]

There are lots of books and websites with those conversions. I think that the point is, rather, that the lack of weighted measurements indicates a missed opportunity, one we've been discussing here.

[OliverB]

Also, if you're outside the US but like US published books, you can easily obtain a set of cups and spoons. There seems to be no real norm for these, just read a test somewhere that showed quite some differences, I'd try to get one set from one manufacturer. They have other uses too in the kitchen, and for some things I like measuring in cups/spoons. It should not keep you from getting the book if you'd otherwise like it.

that there are no weights is disappointing, I'd like to ask Keller or Ruhlman for the reasoning - especially since the scale is called for as essential. Makes little sense, but sure would not keep me from buying the book.

You should be able to find the conversions via google very easy, even those that compare table salt to Morton to Diamon etc. And they differ widely. Some good books do specify which salt they use, which is great. And if you can't find that salt, it's easy to make a little table to stick on the cupboard door as quick reference, I have several of those.

Oh, and salt usually does not get measured by the cup for most recipes

Maybe wait until you can look at the book in a store? Or return it as not up to my expectations or what that reason is on Amazon if you really don't like it.

I think it's a very good book and the price is more than fair.

[Aloha Steve]

I certainly don't intend to get a Vita-Mix any time in the foreseeable future. While I do need to get a scale, primarily for baking, it doesn't seem to make much sense to list a scale and not use weight-based measurements in the book.

Hm.

I couldn't decide whether to post this here or in the Ad Hoc at Home topic. In the opening pages of , Keller lists what he considers to be four essential counter top appliances:

• vita-mix
  
• stand mixer
  
• scale
  
• food processor
  

Scanning through the recipes, I've yet to find one that gives weight-based measurements. Why oh why would you explicitly tell people to go out and plunk down for a scale and then just as explicitly prevent them from using it to cook your food? It's even more frustrating given that most (all?) of the previous Keller books have given measurements in both units, so presumably he can twist an editor's arm.

This post by vice is in "Cookbooks That Use Weight-Based Measurements" discussion.

IF #1, having Vita-Mix is essential for his recipes, its a deal-breaker for me at this point to get this book. I simply do not have the room for it.

Can you folks weigh in here who have handled the book with your opinions please.

I am bumping my question:

A scale does not seem to be essential to use the recipes in this book.

Is a vita-mix or a mixer necessary or essential ? I have a stand mixer and FP with a few blades..

[Marlene]

I have a friend who is working his way through this book. He doesn't own a vita mixer. I doubt that it is necessary for the book.

[vice]

Neither one strikes me as particularly necessary, unless he's pureeing avocado pits in some recipes. A standard kitchen blender (or food processor, in some cases) should work in place of the Vita-Mix. He cites the Vita-Mix specifically because it's more powerful than other blenders and yields purees with smoother texture. If you puree with whatever you've got handy and pass it through a fine sieve, you're probably close enough.

[jsmeeker]

I don't have the book, but maybe he means "VitaMix" as a generic term for "blender". I mean, that's what it is. It's a really souped up blender. I'm sure a good blender that isn't a VitaMix will be fine. The results may not be quite as super smooth as a VitaMix, but I would certainly use my regular blender and then maybe strain if needed.

[OliverB]

As I'm just sitting there reading in the book:

"There are four appliances I especially recommend for the home kitchen: a Vita-Mix, a standing mixer, a scale, and a food processor"

He then goes into detail about each, and he does mean the Vita-Mix brand blender. Talks about the high price but that he thinks it's justified since it works so well.

However, this is not a list of "have to have to cook with this book" things, it's a general chapter talking about recommended kitchen gear, anything from knives to pots and pans. And those four counter top appliances. I am sure that any blender will be fine (well, as long as it does blend), some things might not come out as well as TK would have them, but unless you compare side by side....

So, no, you do not need one.

This is not French Laundry cooking, if your soup is a bit rougher than what the Vita-Mix would make - does it matter at home? Not with this book, it's not it's intention. Just shows you how to make some really good looking food in a regular kitchen. You also don't "need" a food processor, I haven't used mine in a long time and don't even have a stand mixer. They're nice but so far I have not found one necessary. I love kneading dough and use a hand mixer for other things.

It is a very nice book and it's neat to see TK's approach to "fine home dining", can't wait to make the buttermilk fried chicken!

[Greystreet]

Once I have saved $500, I will purchase a Vita Prep. The speed control and blades are the best in the business. From making soups to sauces to purees, nothing beats a Vita Prep plus a $100 chinois.

[jk1002]

For salting, he is using diamond crystal, he is writing an entire page about it. He even goes as far as comparing the cup of morton's (8 oz) to the cup of diamond (5oz).

I haven't cooked anything yet but that has more to do that so many books came out recently. There always seems to be a cluster of releases towards christmas.

Being from germany I find cups and spoons deeply annoying, I have 2 scales, one rough and one precision that goes below a gram.

I am not sure why he is "pimping" the vita prep. Yes they are great but 500$ is a lot of money for a single use appliance.

[Richard Kilgore]

Not $500. The VitaMix runs $449 on their website. $395 at Costco during a roadshow demo.

[Anna N]

Once I have saved $500, I will purchase a Vita Prep. The speed control and blades are the best in the business. From making soups to sauces to purees, nothing beats a Vita Prep plus a $100 chinois.

Keep checking charity stores and garage sales - my chinois cost me $10 with stand!

[Richard Kilgore]

Not $500. The VitaMix runs $449 on their website. $395 at Costco during a roadshow demo.

My error since you said Vita Prep. However, I have seen Vita Prep 3 - 1005 for less than $500 on eBay.

[jenc]

Didn't know where to dump this, so I'll add to it here. This is less about the book and more about TK and his book tour.

Saw Thomas Keller in town (Toronto) for the Ad Hoc At Home book tour. I found the talk interesting for a fan, but otherwise, it'd have been pretty boring for anyone else. The talk was definitely less about the book and more about Thomas Keller. For those of you who can't make it to a nearby city for the tour, I've got some clips up from the Toronto talk. Some interesting sound bites.

[tomdarch]

I only half remember it, but there was a piece in the Chicago Tribune a few weeks ago about Keller (and tangentially about the book, I think.) My impression is very much that the PR approach currently is selling the story (particularly his relationship with his father) first and foremost, and the book is secondary. The market of "people with fathers" is somewhat larger than "people who know who Thomas Keller is and are interested in yet another one of his cookbooks." (I hope that doesn't sound too snarky - Ad Hoc at Home is at the top of my Christmas wish list, despite that fact that it encouraged me to get a Vita Prep 3... cart before the horse, anyone? )

[jenc]

He does sign the book with "It's all about family" so I can see that. Anecdotal, but the room on Monday night was all Keller-fans as far as I can tell. At least by all the chatter before he came in. It was never, "Can't wait to hear about the book/recipes/whatever" but more of "keller this..." or "I took the night off... I wasn't going to miss this..." looooots of resto peeps all around. Even Mark McEwan was there!

Also funny was that Keller was asked where he wanted to go for food, and he couldn't quite come up with much, but he did say "Black Hoof" which is a charcuterie/offal place in town (really interesting/yummy) and that apparently packed the house after the event. I suspect that peeps were hoping he'd still go out to eat... heheheh

[OliverB]

I picked a couple things I want to make by now, I did not yet get to it, mostly as I'm still on the no shopping for a week (week 2 now) thing.

I will be seeing him Thu night in SF though, some little invite only thing at a store (I guess we spent enough there? Not sure why we got that) where he's also catering some snacks supposedly, and signing the book of course. If you buy it there. So I'll have two copies by tomorrow evening :-)

What I'd as him, and if I get to it I will, is what music he's listening to in the kitchen. What would you ask?

I'll post a note here later this week, maybe with a picture or two.

I don't really care what he says or does though, I just love to finally see him in person, as I've probably learned more about food and cooking from him (i.e. his books etc) than from anybody else.