Bistro/Brasserie food in philly

[philadining]

The recent posts about the bar food at Brasserie Perrier are timely, I had just been wondering about local casual French restaurants. I was eating at a nice little brasserie-style place out in San Francisco last weekend, called "Jeanty at Jack's," Philippe Jeanty’s place in the financial district in downtown SF (he also has a couple of restaurants up in Napa.) While sipping a lovely ’01 Gigondas, nibbling on duck and goat cheese pate, frisee with lardons and soft-boiled egg, short ribs, coq au vin, cassoulet, and crepes, I was bemoaning to my friends the loss of the Blue Angel here in Philly, which most closely resembled the overall vibe of this place.

As we were finishing up, we were chatting with the waiter, and somehow it came up that I was visiting from Philly. It turns out that our waiter had worked at Brasserie Perrier, a little bit out at Le Mas, as well as the Blue Angel. All sorts of gossiping and reminiscing ensued... most of which I probably shouldn't repeat! But the general jist was that after working several places in several cities, he still thought the Blue Angel's was the best bistro menu he'd ever worked, and had good things to say about his experience there.

Sometimes that kind of simple, hearty food is just the perfect thing: the duck “Shepherd’s Pie” at Balthazar in NY saved me from a really savage hangover once…

So, I know this gets discussed from time to time, but I didn’t find a good answer from trolling around the topics here, and I haven't found anywhere that's quite right. These days, where does one go in or around philly for simple homey bistro/brasserie French? I hear a range of reactions to Caribou, I haven’t been there in eons (Capaneus, did you go during restaurant week?) Loie vibes me out. It seems like the bar food at Brasserie Perrier gets in the culinary ballpark, but the main dining room is a different thing altogether, despite the name. Pif? The bar at LT’s?

[Capaneus]

The recent posts about the bar food at Brasserie Perrier are timely, I had just been wondering about local casual French restaurants. I was eating at a nice little brasserie-style place out in San Francisco last weekend, called "Jeanty at Jack's," Philippe Jeanty’s place in the financial district in downtown SF (he also has a couple of restaurants up in Napa.) While sipping a lovely ’01 Gigondas, nibbling on duck and goat cheese pate, frisee with lardons and soft-boiled egg, short ribs, coq au vin, cassoulet, and crepes, I was bemoaning to my friends the loss of the Blue Angel here in Philly, which most closely resembled the overall vibe of this place. 

As we were finishing up, we were chatting with the waiter, and somehow it came up that I was visiting from Philly.  It turns out that our waiter had worked at Brasserie Perrier, a little bit out at Le Mas, as well as the Blue Angel. All sorts of gossiping and reminiscing ensued... most of which I probably shouldn't repeat! But the general jist was that after working several places in several cities, he still thought the Blue Angel's was the best bistro menu he'd ever worked, and had good things to say about his experience there.

Sometimes that kind of simple, hearty food is just the perfect thing: the duck “Shepherd’s Pie” at Balthazar in NY saved me from a really savage hangover once…

So, I know this gets discussed from time to time, but I didn’t find a good answer from trolling around the topics here, and I haven't found anywhere that's quite right. These days, where does one go in or around philly for simple homey bistro/brasserie French? I hear a range of reactions to Caribou, I haven’t been there in eons (Capaneus, did you go during restaurant week?) Loie vibes me out. It seems like the bar food at Brasserie Perrier gets in the culinary ballpark, but the main dining room is a different thing altogether, despite the name.  Pif?  The bar at LT’s?

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I did go. Caribou Cafe is in fact a pretty authentic bistro, and a decent one. Still, the best thing about it was the wine list: a great many bottles in the $25 to $40 range that were well chosen bargains, reasonably marked up. The food... the food was good, but it didn't wow me. Good solid honest fare, and (except for the over-$20 steak frites) reasonably priced.

For my cassoulet, I get a friend who commutes to NY to bring me takeout from Les Halles. And I try to make my own, with varying success.

[philadining]

... the food was good, but it didn't wow me.

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Thanks Capaneus, that's what I'd been hearing. I totally know what you're saying, and I think i'll go, sometimes I don't need to be wowed if the food's solid and satisfying.

Coincidentally I just noticed a review from The Inky's Mystery Muncher that is pretty positive. Those reviews are never super critical, but the descriptions are helpful.

[davidbdesilva]

This topic has also frustrated me as well. I thought that Tartin was an authentic and good bistro and I recently had an excellent (and I think pretty authentic, albeit high-end) restaurant week meal at Le Bar (where one spends triple the cost of the meal on wine!). I have not been to Caribou or Pif. I guess I am spoiled because I had a very authentic and absolutely delish meal at a place called Le Gigot in the village in NYC. Small, romantic and cozy place right across the street from Po on a lovely tree-lined street. I can't quite find that type of meal here in Philly unfortunately. I also miss Bleu Angel and thought it was very good, probably because I ate there when it first opened and it was Shola Olunyolo in the kitchen!

Oh, and Le Jardin was absolutely fantastic while Robert Capella was there! Too bad that the owner went and screwed that all up!

Edited February 7, 2005 by davidbdesilva (log)

[TarteTatin]

How funny! My husband made Cassoulet (again) for an "intimate" party of 27 on Saturday night.

It was fantastic! 18 duck confit legs from Assouline, 10 pounds of fresh garlic sausage from Czerw's, 6 huge lamb shanks from B&L Grassland (local farmer; CSA/Winter Harvest/Bob Pierson), 3 big ham hocks from Martin's or Ochs (I get them mixed up), other bacony/fat back whatever stuff that looks like thick pancetta- from D'artagnan, Goose Fat from Rougie,

GOSH

I can't remember what else! Oh, the beans from Kaufman's Amish in Reading Terminal, since he didn't find the "right" beans that he liked anywhere.

It was FAB.

He takes his Cassoulet very seriously, researches a million recipes and puts it together in two days.

You are all invited to our house next time!

Anyway, sorry to go off track of the Restaurants that serve Bistro food, but...the timing was so good!

Seriously, we go to France a few times a year and still have yet to find the Philadelphia perfect Bistro. Yes, Caribou, Pif, --Bleu Angel was Disneyland Bistro, Bistro St. Tropez doesn't really do it...

Les Halles in NY is good bistro...There's a couple we've been to in D.C. - but I do think Philly is lacking. Gosh, a really good frisee salad with lardon and an egg...yum!

[g_camper]

He takes his Cassoulet very seriously, researches a million recipes and puts it together in two days.

You are all invited to our house next time!

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Let me know where to go - I love cassoulet!!! His sounds wonderful.

I miss good bistro food. When I lived in NYC, I enjoyed Le Zinc (now in a reincarnation) and Les Halles for cassoulet. Here the only cassoulet that I found was at Ange Bleu (sadly gone now). Still looking so don't hesitate to write.

Glenn

[mrbigjas]

Les Halles in NY is good bistro...There's a couple we've been to in D.C. - but I do think Philly is lacking. Gosh, a really good frisee salad with lardon and an egg...yum!

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le bar lyonnaise in le bec fin has one for $14, with the lardons and browned potato cubes all a perfectly uniform 3/8". i had this on saturday night and it was damn good.

brasserie perrier has one for slightly less on the bar menu--it has chopped egg instead of poached. but

loie also serves one, or did last time i was there about a year ago.

i realize none of these are bistros per se, but if it's just the dish you're looking for and not the atmosphere...

you know thinking about this, it's almost like we have to go to different restaurants to get the various dishes associated with bistros.

standard tap makes the best steak frites in town for my money. $18 i think.

i'm not sure who does a good roast chicken, and i haven't found a duck breast in green peppercorn sauce recently either.

[philadining]

--Bleu Angel was Disneyland Bistro

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That's absolutely true. But we're not in France, so I'm not sure it was WAY more contrived than Balthazar or Les Halles or Brasserie Jo or any of the places that are trying to evoke another time and place with menu typography, decor, the long aprons: it's all theater....

But behind the artifice, the Blue Angel had talent in the kitchen, and all my meals there were very good. And the pretense was just effective enough, that (after a little wine) I was always shocked to emerge back on Chestnut Street, somehow I was expecting the Boulevard St Germain or something. And I always laughed at the french lessons playing in the bathrooms.

That cassoulet party sounded great! I suspect you'll start to resent us if we show up at your door begging for leftovers, so we'll keep looking for a restaurant that satisfies.

I guess the good news is that cassoulet travels pretty well, so maybe I'll just have to get a bucket of it up at Les Halles sometime and auction it off when I get back!

(edited for typo, ironically enough, the word "typography")

Edited February 8, 2005 by philadining (log)

[herbacidal]

That cassoulet party sounded great! I suspect you'll start to resent us if we show up at your door begging for leftovers, so we'll keep looking for a restaurant that satisfies.

Hey! Don't uninvite the rest of us!

That just means that we need to bring much much wine, food, etc. to properly thank them.

I'm chomping at the bit already.

Edited February 8, 2005 by herbacidal (log)

[Rich Pawlak]

If all we have to rely on, French bistro-wise, is Caribou Cafe, we're doing alright. I've always found it to be warm, wine and beer savvy, and dilligent with its French bistro ouvre. There is also Bistro San Tropez and Patou, but I doubt there are maintaining the French bistro ethic in Philly. And a place that gets ignored is the very servicable restaurant in the Sofitel at 17th and Sansom.

[KatieLoeb]

If all we have to rely on, French bistro-wise, is Caribou Cafe, we're doing alright.  I've always found it to be warm, wine and beer savvy, and dilligent with its French bistro ouvre.  There is also Bistro San Tropez and Patou,  but I doubt there are maintaining the French bistro ethic in Philly.  And a place that gets ignored is the very servicable restaurant in the Sofitel at 17th and Sansom.

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That'd be Chez Colette and I had a lovely lunch there not too long ago. There's also L'Hexagon, but that's more of a Eurotrash bar scene than a bistro. I thought they did serve food though.

[Capaneus]

If all we have to rely on, French bistro-wise, is Caribou Cafe, we're doing alright.  I've always found it to be warm, wine and beer savvy, and dilligent with its French bistro ouvre.  There is also Bistro San Tropez and Patou,  but I doubt there are maintaining the French bistro ethic in Philly.  And a place that gets ignored is the very servicable restaurant in the Sofitel at 17th and Sansom.

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That'd be Chez Colette and I had a lovely lunch there not too long ago. There's also L'Hexagon, but that's more of a Eurotrash bar scene than a bistro. I thought they did serve food though.

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Do tell! I noticed a reasonable-sounding prix fixe on the posted menu some time back, but I've heard such mixed reports about Chez Colette that I haven't made it there yet...

Edited February 8, 2005 by Capaneus (log)

[KatieLoeb]

If all we have to rely on, French bistro-wise, is Caribou Cafe, we're doing alright.  I've always found it to be warm, wine and beer savvy, and dilligent with its French bistro ouvre.  There is also Bistro San Tropez and Patou,  but I doubt there are maintaining the French bistro ethic in Philly.  And a place that gets ignored is the very servicable restaurant in the Sofitel at 17th and Sansom.

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That'd be Chez Colette and I had a lovely lunch there not too long ago. There's also L'Hexagon, but that's more of a Eurotrash bar scene than a bistro. I thought they did serve food though.

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Do tell! I noticed a reasonable-sounding prix fixe on the posted menu some time back, but I've heard such mixed reports about Chez Colette that I haven't made it there yet...

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I don't remember specifically what I had, but I was taken to lunch there by a former co-worker and had some tasty calamari we'd shared and a lovely fish dish of some sort for my entree. All was well prepared and the service was very profesisonal. Great wine by the glass selection as well. This was some time in the autumn so it wasn't so long ago that things could be that radically different now. I haven't heard anything about changes of chef there or anything else. I thought it was solid, and surprising that more folks didn't know about it. We went around 1:30 PM or so, and the lunch "rush" was definitely over. We were comfortable and never rushed.

I wouldn't say the menu at Chez Colette is as "classic bistro" as the others mentioned here, but definitely was reasonably casual in atmosphere and the food had a French flair to it.

[philadining]

I wouldn't say the menu at Chez Colette is as "classic bistro" as the others mentioned here, but definitely was reasonably casual in atmosphere and the food had a French flair to it.

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There's no date of this review, but there's a 2004 at the bottom of the page, so I think it's new-ish. Written with the inimitable style of "Fatty R Bockol" here's a review of Chez Colette

And if you trust the callow youth up at Penn, here's one from the DP

Both make it sound a little swankier than your average bistro, but good.

[victornet]

My one meal at Brasserie Perrier did not suggest it would be the place for cassoulet. Alsatian food perhaps (choucroute was definitely OK, and better than most of my companions' entrees), but the menu, service, and program seemed tilted towards the hip and contemporary rather than the classic food they certainly have the talent to do if the percieved demand was there.

In NYC Quatorze does a very tasty cassoulet once a week.

[TarteTatin]

Well, I showed himself all the emailed compliments, and thought an egullet Cassoulet party at our house would be just dandy, but....he's spent...for now!

He said he'd "think about it" in the next month or so (since it really is a winter dish), or maybe next year!

Meanwhile, we have a freezer full of leftovers!javascript:emoticon(':wink:')

In response to a private emailed question: 13 quart, 9 quart and two smallish Le Creusets, plus two others, totaling 6 pots full.

Let's do a Les Halles trip!

Maybe not, the bus coming back might not be too pleasant.

(27 people in our living room was pretty risky)

[philadining]

He said he'd "think about it" in the next month or so (since it really is a winter dish), or maybe next year!

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If you can talk him into it, I make a pretty respectable Soupe a L'Oignon Gratinée. I'll bet we could convince someone to make a frisée salad. But your husband is right, it really needs a good snowstorm to complete the picture. Maybe if we all pray for bad weather....