Rx Restaurant-New Chef, Same Reasons

[tim olivett]

Hey everybody, I kinda disappeared after that dinner at the Moshulu, our deck opened and we got swallowed up into the river. So much so, that it made me take stock of what I wanted to do with my work. I think the underlying motivation of having that dinner was my own psyche's way of pushing my true feeling to the surface and that is to cook for people in as intimate a way as possible.

So, after an internet dalliance (courtesy of eGullet) with local restauranteur extraordinare, Mr. Greg Salisbury, (hey, he only has one restaurant but what's extraordinary about it is that he is in the restaurant business for all the right reasons and on top of that has managed to survive in the business while staying true to those principles at the same time).

This summer, I'm taking over the stoves at Rx with a few loyal cooks who are also in it for the right reasons.

What are these reasons I keep mentioning? Well, to me, they are;

A true desire to nurture and take care of people (remember it is the hospitality business though sometimes hostility business can be more accurate).

Adapting the menu to the ingredients, instead of the reverse, meaning we find out what's getting picked from the field the day before we get it so if we change the menu once, twice, three times a week it's to truly serve what's best that week or day. Other restaurants need to cost out dishes, train waiters with descriptions etc and trapped by their own dishes whether the artichokes come in moldy or the fish smells funny.

Put quality before the sacred 30% food cost. We just want it to be good, if we spend a dollar or two more, we don't automatically multiply that by 4, we just charge a dollar more, this way we make the same money (we do need to make money) but the percentage isn't the iron clad determination of efficiency. (IE, this past week we went through 8#of chanterelles and an equal amount of morels on entrees that were less than $20) If you work in the business you know that the big restaurants need percentages to gauge their efficiency. We're efficient when everybody walks out with a smile on their face.

Care about the neighborhood and the region, not to mention the entire friggin earth - however small a contribution (I got a little close to delusions of grandeur there). Buy from the local farmers and boy, do we ever. Not just "Branch Creek" greens, but potatoes, red onions, garlic, parsley, eggs (the best eggs I've ever had in my life), bacon, pork, chicken, lamb, milk, yogurt, cornmeal, apple cider vinegar that comes in washed out spring water gallons. Buy Kaffir lime leaves from the little Asian grocer on 43rd and Locust, not Fed Ex from where ever. Recycle our cans and bottles, we even feed the stray cats on the block. Let the hospitals, prisons and Aramark put money in the pockets of Sysco and US Foods (big corporate food suppliers, Sysco's headquarters are actually listed as a street named "Frozen Food Way", - seriously.

Soon, we'll be making our own vinegar, curing olives, smoking fish, meats and vegetables, baking bread. We're already making our own pastas, gnocchi's etc. We don't lie to you. I've worked in plenty of places that say homemade gnocchi and maybe they called Severino from home (not that Severino isn't a great company!) but that's as close as it gets. When we do buy it, we tell you. I definitely believe if you can't make it better, you should buy it. But when the gnocchi get made an hour before you have it, you understand why a couple of potatoes and eggs can be so ethereal.

Well, there you go. We're just getting started and we'll be closed from August 16th to the 23rd. I'm moving a block away (it does take time to make all those little gnocchi's).

Now that we have a parking lot just a few doors down between 44th and 45th on Spruce, I'd love to invite everyone to come on out and see what we're doing.

I can definitely say that this has been a return to why I started in this crazy, mixed up business and that's cause I love the satisfaction of doing good things, supporting sustainable agriculture, small farmers, artisans who have passion for what they do, pleasing people with food that tastes good and is good for you without taking your wallet for a ride. As a cook, it's almost like a baptism to wash away my commercial culinary days and start again with what I've learned on a new, personal level.

I look forward to seeing you all in the next few months (and years) and please don't be shy about letting me know you're there, I'll be there ready to take care of you, for all the right reasons.

I didn't mean this to be an unpaid advertisement for us, it's just that same impulse I had to invite you all to the Moshulu and my enthusiasm is spilling over to do what I think is the truest form of this profession, as Brillat Savarin said,"Food is the most benevolent profession, as it seeks only to provide good cheer and sustenance".

Thanks for giving me the forum and space to share my excitement and I hope you can come share in it.

[tanabutler]

Chef, this post is inspirational for me in so many ways. I can't speak to the business (dollar) end of things, because that's beyond my ken. But you make sense in every way, and I hope your neighborhood (where in PA are you?!) appreciates you (with business) for the ways that you are not only feeding people, but nourishing them.

I have sent your post to my chef ("my chef" = "my client" who does the farm dinners) for him to appreciate.

I don't know at all what is Moshulu, but it sounds like a naughty Hebrew dance. No explanation is necessary or desired. I'm just glad to read that you've found your bearings, found your music, and want to dance.

Bon fortuna!

[shelly59]

My bib is on, my fork is in hand and I and my foodie friends await the opening of your new restaurant with eagerness, Tim. It sounds wonderful.

Much success to you.

[doggonecrazy]

hey a chef who just worked there told me that the owner buys stuff at jetro, so whats the difference between sysco and jetro !!!!! still like your support for the local farmers

[Pan]

That was a great statement, Tim, and from reading it, there's no doubt in my mind that you're doing this because your soul needs it. What you wrote is more like a manifesto - and a very well-written one - than an ad. I have no idea when or whether I'll have the chance to come to your place, as I don't get down to Philadelphia often at all. But I see you as a kindred spirit, a committed artist/artisan, and I wish you good luck and all the enjoyment you seek from your vocation.

[Mummer]

After tasting your wares at the Moshulu dinner, I'm eager to check out your new spot. I hoped you'd resurface in town when I read that somebody else was feeding the tourists on the river. I've a fondness for Rx's neighborhood since my gigging nights at the never-to-be-forgotten Walsh's Tavern.

Break an egg, Tim!

[tim olivett]

  hey a chef who just worked there told me that the owner buys stuff at jetro, so whats the difference between sysco and jetro !!!!! still like your  support for the local farmers

Was that the same guy who walked out at the end of his shift?

Well, not many of the farmers grow their own trash bags, plastic wrap and to go containers. If you know any local artisanal producers of paper products, drop us a line. Plus, not for nothing, at least going to Jetro or Resaurant Depot you actually handpick what looks good, compared to just ordering blindly. Not many owners are dedicated enough to get up everyday and run around for the restaurant, I know that some chefs weren't either. It would be a lot easier to order that stuff, at a higher mark up than Jetro (see - more money in the big guys pockets).

So there, tit for tat!

You know it's like liberals, we spend so much time splitting hairs and arguing amongst ourselves while the conservatives present a united front and dominate our lives.

Let's fight the good fight, not each other!

Edited July 26, 2004 by tim olivett (log)

[arice]

tim,

wowee, your food and mission sound grand.... and parking?!? i can't wait to stop in for a bite.

arice

[Greg Salisbury]

Let me just preface this by saying that I am extremely uncomfortable posting anything on this site that could even remotely be construed as shilling for the restaurant. That said, I am thrilled that Tim has decided to come aboard (sorry, couldn't resist). I sincerely hope you will stop by and let us know what you think of Tim's cooking.

I'm really only here to respond to doggonecrazy. I absolutely, positively cop to shopping at Jetro, just like I cop to shopping at Dairyland, Green Meadow, Chilly Philly, Halteman's, Greensgrow, Endless Mts. Cabin, Overbrook Farm, DiBruno, Tartes, TCP, Farm Fresh for Chefs, Country Time Farm, Meadow Run Farm, B&L Farm, Fahnestock Orchard, North Star Orchard, Genuine Bakery, Anson Mills, etc. We only use pork from Country Time Farm; IBP products have come into the restaurant only when Country Time could not deliver. I'm not sure if I understand what it is doggonecrazy is trying to say, or what kind of response he's looking for from me, so I invite him/her to give me a call (215.222.9590) or stop by the restaurant. I would be happy to not only go over my purveyor list and purchasing strategies by the season, but to introduce Paul from Country Time, who is eminently more qualified to talk about what he does with the waste from his broods.

[R Washburn]

Tim,

I am looking forward to your opening, and my wife and I will definitely make the trip down from NYC to try "Rx".

Robert

[KatieLoeb]

My understanding is that Rx is up and running (as it has been for some time - it's not a "new" restaurant) quite well with both Greg and Tim in the house as of this writing. They will be closed for vacation during the week in August that Tim mentioned earlier, but are welcoming guests each and every evening right now.

If I am incorrect I hope Greg or Tim will point that out, but my plan is to try and get there for the first time (certainly not my virgin voyage to Rx) with Chef Tim at the stove before they go off on their vacations the 3rd week of August.

Gentlemen?? Do I require correction?

[mrbigjas]

If I am incorrect I hope Greg or Tim will point that out, but my plan is to try and get there for the first time (certainly not my virgin voyage to Rx) with Chef Tim at the stove before they go off on their vacations the 3rd week of August.

What she said.

[sara]

This is terrific news and I'll be checking Greg & Tim out this Thursday night after my movers depart!! It's been terrific watching my West Philly neighborhood flourish into a place that could house a 'destination' restaurant.

[Greg Salisbury]

Katie, you are correct - we are open until the week of 8/16, then we re-open 8/24. Sara, I am so glad we'll be able to say Bon Fromage to you in person!

[TarteTatin]

Tim, you go!

You're doing the right thing.

Please know that most of us readers realize it.

...and stay enthusiastic and full of passion!

[Andrew Fenton]

First, congratulations, Tim! It sounds like a perfect match.

I'm embarassed to admit that it took me years to make it across the river to eat at Rx (especially since I'm in west Philly every day). But we finally ate there in the spring, and ever since then, I've been thinking about the smelts I had for dinner. Man, those were some good smelts.

I'll have to head on back there soon. I'll be sure to use the secret liberal phone line when I make reservations...

[sara]

Ok, after much delay due to an extended vacation--here's the report!

Liam & I went to Rx with a friend as soon as my movers pulled away on Thursday July 29. We arrived at 5:30, and found ourselves still noshing and talking well after 8, when we needed to be on our way to NY!

I've been eating at Rx since it opened, watching it go through multiple chefs--and I must say this latest development, the addition of Tim to the lineup, is a fabulous move! The menu is more interesting and electic than ever, full of yummy ingrediants, and each dish is deceptively simple in preparation, packing a great deal of flavor--and without overwhelmingly the diner with gigantic portions.

We each did the $25 prix fixe, 3 courses, available Tuesday-Thursday nights. This is an AMAZING deal. I hope it doesn't go away- it should be a great draw for the locals.

We started with:

White shrimp risotto: garden zucchini, truffle essence, summer onion coulis

Rx gnocchi: chanterelles, micro arugula, truffled parsley puree

Grilled day boat calamari: Gaeta olives, lemon, almonds

The pastas were wonderful--tender, rich, yet not heavy. My calamari was full of spice and vigor, and perfectly cooked.

For my entree I had a special--wild striped bass, corn/bacon/nut-crusted, with chanterelles, butternut-chardonnay broth. AWESOME, silky.

Liam and my friend each chose the braised short ribs: creamy morels, yukon gold hash, sauce Bordelaise. The ultimate falling off the bone comfort dish--kudos to Tim for having the balls to serve this in July.

We then had many desserts--balsamic strawberries, bread pudding, chocolate cake, and another that's slipping my mind. A real sugar high.

Lucky y'all who get to enjoy Tim's cooking at Rx when he really has a chance to "settle in" -- whatever that means; he's already cooking far beyond the capacity of many of Philly's chefs who've been there for ages.

[Kim WB]

Interesting thread..whre is Rx? In Philadelphia or the burbs?

Edited August 12, 2004 by Kim WB (log)

[KatieLoeb]

Interesting thread..whre is Rx?  In Philadelphia or the burbs?

Kim:

Rx is in the University City neighborhood of West Philly that surrounds Penn, a very short ride from Center City. Address is 4443 Spruce St. which places it at the corner of 45th & Spruce.

If you're coming to town tomorrow to check out Reading Terminal, a dinner at Rx is entirely feasible as it's well located via either public or private transportation.

[marinade]

Liam and my friend each chose the braised short ribs: creamy morels, yukon gold hash, sauce Bordelaise. The ultimate falling off the bone comfort dish--kudos to Tim for having the balls to serve this in July.

Echo that on the Braised Ribs. Four of us were there last Friday (8/6) and the ribs, along with Truffled grits (app), blew me away. Tim told us that he's in the process of building a smokehouse and will be doing some cured meat as well. Should be just what the doctor prescribed.

[sara]

Tim (and Greg) is one ambitious man!

[Andrew Fenton]

I had dinner at Rx recently and have been thinking about it ever since then. Because I'm kinda slow, it took a while for me to figure out just what I like about it, but then I realized: Rx is the ideal neighborhood restaurant. It's casual and pretty; the servers are friendly and humorous; every time I'm there, I see people I know. There's a warmth you don't find at a lot of other places: it's a great place to to relax on a spring evening, chat, and finish a bottle of wine or three.

Of course, you wouldn't just want to drink, because the other thing that makes Rx so great is Chef Tim's awesome cooking. You can tell, after nine months, what a good fit it's been: lots of creative, fresh, accessible dishes. High points for us were: a plate of shellfish (oysters, clams, shrimp, seared scallop) with a red pepper-butter sauce. Was I tempted to distract my fellow eaters and, while they were looking out the window, drink the rest of the sauce? Perish the thought: that's what dippin' bread is for!

Calamari with a black sesame crust was another great seafood treatment: tender and crispy, more spicy and interesting than the usual squid, with a fish sauce dip and a wee salad of pea greens. Oh, how I love those pea greens. I also loved-- and was shocked that I did-- a chicken breast with gnocchi. I mean, gnocchi, sure, who doesn't love gnocchi? These were just as good as you could ask. But chicken breast? This one was tender, with a hint of foie gras: the best chicken dish I've ordered in ages, and I was tempted, once again, to distract everyone else and start licking the plate...

What else to say about Rx? It's just a great place; as I said, the ideal neighborhood bistro. And on a beautiful April evening, we found it verrry tempting to move to West Philly, just to be in that neighborhood...

[TarteTatin]

We also went for the first time this week, Wed night.

Super!

$25 prix fixe mid week is a super deal for three courses.

I had scallops with shrimp grits. Gorgeous scallops over lovely grits with large pieces of shrimp in it. Tasty. He had soft shell crap tempura with baby bok choy and coconut rice.

Then I had crusted halibut topped with fiddlehead ferns which I thought I wouldn't like-they were good! -- with interesting corn cous cous, he had hangar steak with mash with ramps.

Dessert was flourless chocolate for him and creme brulee made with molasses, topped with green tea something and a pomegrante sauce. The description sounds way too busy, but the tastes weren't.

Drove around for awhile looking for parking. First timers should note that there is a parking lot, ask when you make your reservation.

Byob, we brought two bottles and left a half bottle for the waiter.

(Paris has a new rule that you can bring home unfinished wine, what's the rule in Philly? --Not that I mind, the staff seems to like it!)

[mrbigjas]

Byob, we brought two bottles and left a half bottle for the waiter.

(Paris has a new rule that you can bring home unfinished wine, what's the rule in Philly? --Not that I mind, the staff seems to like it!)

←

to my knowledge the rule is: if you brought it, you can take it--in fact, i read the actual laws about alcohol in restaurants without a lcense and it kinda surprised me how strict it was about how you couldn't even have open wine in the kitchen for cooking, and other pretty harsh restrictions.

apparently no one pays attention to that.

but anyway, yeah, if you bring it, you can take it. if you buy it, you can't.

[jelly]

Byob, we brought two bottles and left a half bottle for the waiter.

(Paris has a new rule that you can bring home unfinished wine, what's the rule in Philly? --Not that I mind, the staff seems to like it!)

←

to my knowledge the rule is: if you brought it, you can take it--in fact, i read the actual laws about alcohol in restaurants without a lcense and it kinda surprised me how strict it was about how you couldn't even have open wine in the kitchen for cooking, and other pretty harsh restrictions.

apparently no one pays attention to that.

but anyway, yeah, if you bring it, you can take it. if you buy it, you can't.

←

I've been to a few restaurants where I bought it and was allowed to take the unfinished bottle home. Maybe they were bending the rules.