Mexican Food in Northern California

[rancho_gordo]

Why aren't we demanding better Mexican food? Why are we happy with a number 6 combination plate with a chile relleno made yesterday, an enchilada that tastes like a taco and a taco that tastes like an enchilada, all smothered in a bland chile sauce? Why is the best thing always the refried beans?

There's a thread on the Texas forum about the virtues of Tex-Mex. I haven't eaten enough of it to really form an opinion but it leads me to wonder whether things are so great here.

There was Cafe Marimba on Chestnut Street when Reed Hearon was at the helm. It was to me some of the most exciting food I'd eaten in a long time, despite the cantina-like atmosphere and yuppie location. It was exciting. Then it was nothing. I don't even know if it's still in business but I think when Hearon left they realized at that spot they could serve Taco bell and it would still pack them in. There's a restaurant in Sonoma called Maya that was kind of interesting when it first opened but now it's a silly tourist trap.

I hear Picante in Berekely is good but haven't been. Primavera, who make such nice butter-laden tamels, is in the Farmers Market in SF on Saturdays and I hear good things there.

So other than cooking at home, where do you go? I love my burritos but I think that's a different thread.

[tanabutler]

Santa Cruz has some excellent Mexi food. Outside Santa Cruz, my two favorite places are:

1) 3 Amigos in Half Moon Bay. The roasted pollo burrito, yowsah! The place is always packed, but the line moves amazingly fast. Great place, seriously.

2) Mr. Taco in Davis. It has its own thread, and Mexican food in the area is discussed. Mr. Taco (Scroll down for a photo, Señor Gordo.)

[rancho_gordo]

That's wild. I discovered Mr taco on my own about 6 months ago! The burritos have a mysterious extra ingredient that turns me into an animal and I have the grease-stained t-shirt to prove it. Beyond burritos, the menu has too many items and I'm a bit suspect, but I'll try it.

By the way, should your car break down in Dixon, don't ever for a minute trust it to Dixon Tune and Lube right across the street. Inept and stupid! With a Hooterville view!

But surely a taqueria in Dixon isn't the best we can do for Mexican food!

[tanabutler]

That's wild. I discovered Mr taco on my own about 6 months ago! The burritos have a mysterious extra ingredient that turns me into an animal and I have the grease-stained t-shirt to prove it. Beyond burritos, the menu has too many items and I'm a bit suspect, but I'll try it.

By the way, should your car break down in Dixon, don't ever for a minute trust it to Dixon Tune and Lube right across the street. Inept and stupid! With a Hooterville view!

But surely a taqueria in Dixon isn't the best we can do for Mexican food!

Pheromones?

[rancho_gordo]

I was thinking more along the lines of Sweeny Todd or Soylent Green, but pheromones works for me.

[ludja]

Why aren't we demanding better Mexican food? Why are we happy with a number 6 combination plate with a chile relleno made yesterday, an enchilada that tastes like a taco and a taco that tastes like an enchilada, all smothered in a bland chile sauce? Why is the best thing always the refried beans?

...

So other than cooking at home, where do you go? I love my burritos but I think that's a different thread.

Good topic rancho gordo and one I've pondered myself.

When I first moved out here I was very excited in hoping to discover a whole world beyond the east coast version of Tex-Mex that I knew. I've definately learned some--Cal-Mex burritos, carnitas, pork al pastor, some good chile rellenos, agua frescas and horchatas but it's fallen short of what I hoped for. Part of this may be that by reading Bayless and Kennedy (I've not been to Mexico... yet) I have a false impression of the variety that could be out there. Besides that though, I think I can independently tell if is a sauce is complex and interesting--and have had some good ones. Bland chile sauces are such an insult!

I have found good small places down in South Bay for burritos and tacos. Even sopas and chile rellenos in some places. (And I do really like 3 Amigos also in Half Moon Bay). It's difficult though to find places with interesting sauces/choices on the menu.

A pretty good place down in Silicon Valley (Mountain View) is Fiesta del Mar. I give it points for having some more interesting things on the menu--mexcian chicken soup, seafood soup, shrimp dishes, mole negro (ok), a special guajillo chile sauce. It is relatively expensive though and could be done better.

Also agree on your Cafe Marimba assessment; used to enjoy it quite a bit the first few years it was open--both for the choice of items on the menu and the execution. Haven't been there in awhile to compare. Another place that was good but I think is now out of business was Casa Aguila on Noriega in the Sunset--it actually had a few different types of moles.

In writing this though, I think I may not have put in enough legwork to find and test the best places in San Jose and in the Mission. I hope there are some recommendations from others for places that are out there-particularly places serving different types of dishes.

[mcdowell]

I eat really good Mexican food out a couple of times per month, rotating between three restaurants in the South Bay.

It occurs me that I only know the name of one, a place in Sunnyvale called Tia Juana; it's on East Duane just off Lawrence & 101 and right across from the back-side of the AMD campus. They have all of the expected the border staples, but also a nice selection of things you don't typically find at your typical South Bay tanqueria.

My favorite mornings are those where I can break away from my office at about 9:15, just after they open, and sit in the empty restaurant eating spicy eggs and chorizo. No breakfast crowd at all, yet simply amazing food. Expect a bit of a lunch rush.

The other places I eat Mexican/Cali-Mex/Tex-Mex are "that place on Homestead with the really good cilantro snapper"* and that "great little Tex-Mex place on El Camino in Los Altos". Sorry I can't be more specific.

*edited to say that the "really good place on Homestead" is in the same shopping center as the new Trader Joe's.

Edited March 9, 2004 by mcdowell (log)

[ludja]

I eat really good Mexican food out a couple of times per month, rotating between three restaurants in the South Bay.

It occurs me that I only know the name of one, a place in Sunnyvale called Tia Juana; it's on East Duane just off Lawrence & 101 and right across from the back-side of the AMD campus.  They have all of the expected the border staples, but also a nice selection of things you don't typically find at your typical South Bay tanqueria.

My favorite mornings are those where I can break away from my office at about 9:15, just after they open, and sit in the empty restaurant eating spicy eggs and chorizo. No breakfast crowd at all, yet simply amazing food.  Expect a bit of a lunch rush.

The other places I eat Mexican/Cali-Mex/Tex-Mex are "that place on Homestead with the really good cilantro snapper"* and that "great little Tex-Mex place on El Camino in Los Altos".  Sorry I can't be more specific.

*edited to say that the "really good place on Homestead" is in the same shopping center as the new Trader Joe's.

Thanks for the recs... I'd like to try out the suggestions--breakfast sounds good as does the snapper.

I encountered the same problem with some of my smaller favorite places--know the location but not the name.

Just remembered one though, El Paso on El Camino in Mountain View. The food tastes very homestyle and it has a great comfy atmosphere.

Is Estrellita's the place you are thinking of Los Altos (El Camino and San Antonio)? I've heard some good things about them.

Estrellita's

Edited March 9, 2004 by ludja (log)

[mcdowell]

... The other places I eat Mexican/Cali-Mex/Tex-Mex are ... that "great little Tex-Mex place on El Camino in Los Altos".  Sorry I can't be more specific.

Just remembered one though, El Pasa on El Camino in Mountain View. The food tastes very homestyle and it has a great comfy atmosphere.

Ah! El Pasa is the Tex-Mex place I couldn't think of on El Camino (on the Los Altos/Mountainview border). Very comfy inside, and great out-back patio for warm evenings. Try their Sangria, if you haven't.

[ludja]

Just not to propogate my inititial mistake.... El Paso in Mountain View/Los Altos.

I have had their sangria and it's good!

Edited March 9, 2004 by ludja (log)

[Hest88]

Dona Tomas in Oakland.

[ingridsf]

Try New Central on South Van Ness and Fourteenth. Home-made tortillas, incredible carnitas, beans. Really fresh, everything juicy. A real stand-out.

Edited March 10, 2004 by ingridsf (log)

[Squeat Mungry]

I've had good mole and enchiladas at Los Jarritos on 20th, but it's been a while since I've been there. They make their own tortillas, too, and do birria on the weekends.

Squeat

[ingridsf]

Also agree on your Cafe Marimba assessment; used to enjoy it quite a bit the first few years it was open--both for the choice of items on the menu and the execution.  Haven't been there in awhile to compare. 

Almost forgot -- I went to Cafe Marimba just a few weeks ago. Not good. My spicy shrimp tacos were fishy, the platanos were hard, and the tortillas were dried out. If I want a sit-down meal, I'd rather go to Roosevelts (24th at Bryant) for the enchiladas verde. Granted, they don't give you free chips and salsa but it costs a lot less and there are families there instead of 20-somethings getting drunk at the bar. Not that there's anything wrong with that And, of course, it makes a detour to Mitchell's afterward that much more justifiable.

[rancho_gordo]

Well, it looks like the south bay is the place to be. Ingridsf, is the New Central a taqueria or a restaurant? Tanabutler- are your places sit-down?

Squeat Mungry, I think you should organize another eGullet event around Mexican restaurants beyond burritos. I'll come!!!! ludja's got a lot of places to check out and Hest88's Dona Tomas I've heard of as well.

I don't quite know if Mr Taco in Dixon is worth the trip, unless you are enroute to Sacto or beyond.

I've asked before, but has anyone eaten at Maya in SF, the $$$$ one? I have his book and he seems solid but too fussy.

[Squeat Mungry]

Squeat Mungry, I think you should organize another eGullet event around Mexican restaurants beyond burritos. I'll come!!!!

Hey, I didn't really organize the Saturday event -- I just reported it! I'm terrible at organizing! I'd be happy to participate, though.

I've asked before, but has anyone eaten at Maya in SF, the $$$$ one? I have his book and he seems solid but too fussy.

I had a great meal at Maya about a year ago. I especially remember a delicious roasted corn soup with a huitlacoche-filled masa "dumpling".

Cheers,

Squeat

[jschyun]

Oh man, I wanna go but the next time I'll be in SF area is April 2-5. It would be cool to compare Northern CA Mexican food with SoCal Mexican food.

[ingridsf]

Ingridsf, is the New Central a taqueria or a restaurant?

To be totally honest, I haven't been inside it. But it looks like a taqueria from the outside. Somebody from our office walks over there for take-out and brings it back. On days that make me very, very happy. The food is still steaming and delicious despite it's journey en styrofoam. Their tacos just knock me out as do their salsas. Oh hell, I lick the entire damn container before I throw it out. Why lie to a bunch of eGulleteers?

[chasmartel]

Try Las Camilias (sp?) in San Rafael, I think on Lincoln. We've eaten there many times and have found the food consistent, and I think a cut above. They have interesting dishes beyond tex-mex, but I don't know enough about real Mexican food to say whether it is aiuthentic or not. I do like a lot of them.

San Rafael has a fairly large Mexican-American population and I'm sure there are small hole-in-the-wall places that must be good, but I can't say I know where they are.

Picante in Berkeley is not fine dining, but it is fun and the food is quite good considering the volume etc. Possibly the most kid-friendly place in the East Bay (and Mom & Dad get decent food & a beer).

(We're having some frozen leftover pork chili stew from Hadley Dent's Santa Fe cookbook with some of your beans for dinner tonight. We like them a lot.)

[cmvnapa]

Try either Los Panchos over in Pacheco - strictly takeout - or New Mecca in Pittsburg. And have you tried any taco trucks?

[rancho_gordo]

The list is getting longer, slowly but surely. I've had people tell me Las Camelias is pretty good but I have such a hard time believing it because Marin food is so bad in general, especially considering all the money in that county.

cmvnapam, I love the name New Mecca. I will have to try that. I live out of taco trucks. That's what got me started on this thread really. The trucks are so great but the minute you sit down, something dire seems to happen.

OK, who's going to organize?

[tanabutler]

Tanabutler- are your places sit-down?

With one exception, yes. I don't really go to Tacos Moreno, which is one of the faves in town, because I infinitely prefer Taqueria Vallarta. Tacos Moreno only has a couple of little tables. There's always a line but I think that's because there aren't many places to sit.

Edited March 11, 2004 by tanabutler (log)

[melkor]

OK, who's going to organize?

You are

[tanabutler]

Hey, a friend of mine has a teenaged son who is always on the quest for the perfect burrito. He grew up in San Francisco, and has been keeping a burrito diary for years, as he roved the country with a touring band. The entries are sorted from most recent to oldest, unfortunately, because you have to get to the end to read his manifesto (word to the wise, he's a vegetarian, but cut him some slack--just as I am cutting him slack for dissing Taqueria Vallarta). WARNING: I think his father exposed him early on to the writings of Anthony Bourdain. Rated R for language.

Morgan's manifesto:

Growing up in San Francisco, it's almost impossible not to venture over to the Mission and get ahold of one of the amazing burritos there are to offer from one of the dozens of taquerias lined up on each block. It's one of the major things the Mission district is famous for-- go to other states and look at their taquerias, mostly decked out all over with signs saying "real Mission burritos!" or "Straight from the Mission! Burritos!" and other things of the sort.

At the same time, it's been pointed out to me by various sources that people from the bay area have an 'odd' infatuation with burritos. This is probably true. I've known people who moved far away from the bay area for really legitimate, extreme reasons, but moved back soon after, merely because they missed the amazing burritos.

What is it about burritos that drives people to these lengths?

In any case-- I'm one of the many minions who grew up under the fine manna of the Mission burrito. I've observed this 'myth of the burrito' (or whatever you want to call it) over the years. At this point, this burrito infatuation seems almost religious. People are always arguing about where the best burrito is, how to make the best burrito, chemistry and content of the best burrito, and even have a giant burrito convention out in Texas once a year in an attempt to find the 'perfect burrito.' Well-- I've set out on my own quest to find the perfect burrito. For the past few years, I've extended my burrito love to trying out new taquerias everywhere I go, and figuring out from there which taqueria holds the true secrets of the universe. And basically, this journal here is where I will be posting the results of this extensive journey over time to come.

Criteria? There's not much, but here's some notes to take into consideration before reading into the reviews:

-I'm vegetarian, so if you're into that meaty stuff, you ain't gonna get much from my 'reviews'

-Fuck the fake shit. I'm into the basic and essential elements of a burrito. This means: beans, rice (well, those two are the most basic, and I'm cool with just those)-- and also good, depending where you go: avocado/guacamole, cheese, sour cream. Salsa does not belong INSIDE burritos. Get a cup on the side and put it on as you eat away.

-Taco Bell 'burritos' are NOT burritos

-Don't EVER use the word 'wraps' and 'burritos' in the same sentence.

Anyhow-- enough of my ramble, you get the gist.

By the way, if anyone has any taquerias in their town that they recommend, let me know-- and I'll hop on out there and check it out... Yeah.

Go here and change the number at the end to a lower number if you want to move upward (towards more recent posts) in the site.

[marie-louise]

Why aren't we demanding better Mexican food? Why are we happy with a number 6 combination plate with a chile relleno made yesterday, an enchilada that tastes like a taco and a taco that tastes like an enchilada, all smothered in a bland chile sauce? Why is the best thing always the refried beans?

For me- native Californian who has never lived outside the state- this is my comfort food. I've been eating this stuff since I was a kid-I don't want you messin' w/ it! I know what you are saying, the preparation can be inattentive at times, but I LIKE these classic dishes.

I do like it when good flour tortillas are served warm (and wrapped so they stay that way), when the cheese has been melted on top of the refried beans, and there is an assortment of salsas on the table.

PS Cactus has really good crispy chicken tacos. (I'm not that fond of their burritos.)