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Posted

So, here's the story...my girlfriend (Alyssa) and I visited Chicago for four days back in May and we really loved many of the distinctive foods of the city. But most of all, we were completely wowed by the art that Grant Achatz is creating in the kitchen of Trio.

We found ourselves with little vacation time but a yearning to return and visit the kitchen table at Trio. What would we do? We definitely wanted to make it out before the subfreezing temperatures and snow overtook the city (yes, we're wimpy native Californians). So we decided to try and cram as much as possible into a one-day trip from the Bay Area. In just over 25 hours, not only did we eat the TDF at Trio but we also ate at Harold’s Fried Chicken, Al’s and Johnnie’s Italian Beef, SuperDawg, and Gino’s East. Needless to say that by the end of the trip we were absolutely stuffed.

But the focus of this post is Trio...so let's get to it. Upon arrival at 6PM, we were promptly shown to the table, made our water selection, and began one of the great culinary adventures in this country.

(We'll step through course by course and I'll throw in some candid shots from the kitchen as we go along.)

Sunday, November 16, 2003

Trio Kitchen Table

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Noilly Prat Dry Vermouth

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Pear-Eucalyptus-Olive Oil

Noilly Prat Dry Vermouth

Eucalyptus gelee, Anjou pear poached in white wine, and olive oil. This was a great amuse for a number of reasons. It utilized some intense flavors without being overpowering. And it was successful in opening up the palette. Also, it had proper sizing for an amuse...a small bite that provided immediate satisfaction. I much prefer this small bite style to some of the larger ramekin based amuse presentations which often end up being closer in size to an actual course. What I loved with this was the blending of herbaceous notes with the dominantly sweet flavor. As the consumption progressed the oil began to take over and provide a smooth, velvety finish. Also of note was the outstanding pairing with the Noilly Prat Dry Vermouth. The beverage provided a compelling continuation of flavors from the amuse which was aided by the aroma of a pear garnish.

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Aubry Brut Champagne with Quady Vya

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Pacific Sea Urchin

Puree of orange rind, licorice, peppers

Aubry Brut Champagne with Quady Vya

What struck me with this dish was how much the uni played a supporting role, flavor-wise, to the orange puree (an unexpectedly dominant flavor), the licorice foam, and the peppers. Two weeks previous, we had uni with conch at the Fifth Floor in San Francisco and in that dish the uni dominated with a briny ocean flavor. However, in this dish, the sea urchin seemed much lighter and more delicate...its flavor not commanding in the least. So I felt its role was more geared toward providing a rich and creamy texture to the other flavors. However, looking back, perhaps I did not completely "get" this dish.

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Puree of Chestnuts

Quince, bacon, potato ice cream

Pojer & Sandri "Palai" Muller Thurgau, Vigneti delle Dolomiti, Italy 2001

This was simply outstanding. It's a dish where many different flavors come together (somewhat unexpectedly) and form a thoroughly dynamic whole. I simply referred to it as a savory ice cream sundae. The chestnuts provided a creamy and earthy base, the bacon consume added a rich smokiness, and the quince provided glimpses of sweetness. The potato ice cream provided a coolness that contrasted well with the other warm components and which provided an additional textural dimension. I think this dish became more and more successful as everything mixed and melted together. It was savory, rich, and sweet all at once. Also included were a small cube of bay gelee and a celery garnish. Very inspiring and creative.

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Tempura of Rock Shrimp

Vanilla, cranberry, Meyer lemon

Cusumano "Cubia" Insolia, Sicily 2001

The really unique thing about this dish was the aroma that wafted out of the glass as it was presented at the table…the unmistakable scent of cotton candy. Don't ask me how this was; just take my word for it. The diner is given directions to grasp the vanilla bean from the top and to dangle the entire piece above one's mouth. Then you are asked to consume the tempura ball in a single bite, stripping it off the bean as one might pluck a grape from its vine. It's also recommended that you enjoy the scent of the vanilla bean as you do this. It sounded a little unorthodox but it was an amusing way of engaging the diner. The exterior was crisp and definitely had a freshly fried scent to it. The interior was molten and warm and had a huge punch of tangy lemon flavor that was mildly tempered by the sweetness of the cranberries. While I felt that the lemon was a bit overpowering, Alyssa felt that the rock shrimp held up to the strong flavors and provided a pleasant briny aspect. But we both agreed that the shrimp was perfectly cooked and also added a textural dimension. From our perspective, it was an interesting play on the traditional pairing of fried shrimp and lemon wedges, turning it inward upon itself and including the lemon within the fried casing.

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Spice Water

A small shot of liquid infused with peppercorns, star anise, Thai long peppers, and black truffle that was topped with hazelnut foam. The diner is asked not to shoot this in the traditional sense, but to sip the entire contents in one continuous motion letting the entire beverage wash across your palette. It had a very refreshing effect and was surprisingly mild in flavor. From the description, I had expected that it might be a little more potent. Star anise and pepper flavors were easily identifiable, but I wasn't able to pinpoint the truffle. The hazelnut foam added a bit of richness and earthiness to both the taste and the nose.

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Black Truffle Explosion

Pretty much everything has already been said about this classic. It's about as close as any dish comes to being crowned a signature dish at Trio. Once again it was enjoyable however the truffle flavor was not quite as pronounced as I had previously remembered and the internal temperature of the truffle/black tea infusion may have been a bit cooler. (Though, I will admit that I let it sit on the table for about a minute as I photographed it...so I'm most likely to blame for this.) But in the end, this dish is always an outstanding little bite.

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Elysian Fields Farm Lamb

Chanterelle mushrooms, coffee, catmint

Umathum Zweigelt, Burgenland, Austria 2001

Wow, there's a lot going on in this dish and thankfully it was pulled off very well. You are asked to start the dish by enjoying the spoonful of fried onions and coffee crème reduction. This definitely set up the dish and prepared the palette for the richness that was to come. And it also established a call back to the caramel mushroom coffee flan that rested under the lamb slices. The lamb was incredibly tender, pooled in a fabulously sweet yet salty lamb reduction and was especially enjoyable paired with the cippolini onion. The chanterelles added a rich buttery aspect that went a long way toward rounding out the fullness of the dish. And while mint was included in this dish, I failed to taste much trace of this traditional pairing. However, that was of little consequence...the dish was a great success regardless.

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Tenderloin of Venison

Banana, celeriac, malted barley

Europvin Falset "Laurona", Monsant, Spain 2000

This venison comes from New Zealand where, evidently, it roams the land without the threat of any predators. In theory, less adrenaline in the animal means more tender and tasty meat. I don't know how much of a roll this played but the meat was very succulent. This dish was another winner. Not being a big fan of celery flavor, I still enjoyed what the celeriac brought to this dish in the form of supporting flavors. I loved the malted barley and I think the earthy aspect paired well conceptually and practically with the venison. The banana introduced a hint of sweetness that was unusual but pleasing.

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"Cheese 'n Cracker"

Again, this course is one of the few other stalwarts on the Trio menu. However, it is now being served later in the menu. Simple yet fun. Had a great crunchy exterior and a liquid interior of sharp Wisconsin cheddar. Alyssa remembered the interior being a bit warmer on our last visit, but it seemed okay to me.

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"Salad"

Red wine vinaigrette

We love this dish. It really does epitomize what Chef Achatz's cuisine is all about. It's playful and intriguing and it really gets diners thinking about flavor vehicles and how tried and true flavors can sometimes be reinvigorated by presenting them in new and exciting forms. And it just plain tastes good.

(Who knows where the next generation of "salad" may lead…I can't help but envision chefg going "Willy Wonka" on us and concocting "salad" gum.) :biggrin:

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Pushed Foie Gras

Dolga crabapples, honey gelee

Bechtolsheimer Petersberg Beerenauslese, Ernst Bertz, Rheinhessen 1999

Amazing dish. My consumption of this encompassed two phases...my first few bites were comprised of the honey gelee and the foie gras alone. And I admit that I loved the pairing so much that I almost didn't want to include the apple sorbet into my next few bites. The insanely rich foie coupled with the naturally sweet honey was such a pure and satisfying flavor combination. Adding the apple into the mix completely transformed the dish into a pseudo apple pie rendition with the foie providing the buttery flavor reminiscent of a real pie. A few salt crystals on top contrasted the sweetness and made the dish that much stronger. An apple crisp and chervil complete as garnish.

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Mountain Huckleberry Soda

Five flavors gelled

This was the first of several progression style dishes that Trio loves to serve and that I love to eat. Rather than focusing on a theme as a whole, the concept of these progressions involves the examination of flavor pairings revolving around a core ingredient. In this case a huckleberry soda is to be paired one at a time with five gelees. They included: butternut squash, sage, smoked salt, chocolate, and toasted pine nut. That is the suggested order of consumption (from left to right). These are all very different flavors so it's immediately intriguing that they all pair well with huckleberry. The butternut squash provided a smooth and creamy aspect. The sage was fragrant and herbal. The smoked salt was the most unexpected taste...and for some reason reminded us of pork (probably invoking memories of kalua pork). The chocolate pairing was reminiscent of a chocolate truffle. And the pine nut was kind of hard to taste coming after the more powerful chocolate flavor. None of the pairings stopped me in my tracks but it was enjoyable to experience how sweet, salty, herby, and earthy all inter-relate around a single flavor.

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Pineapple-Mustard

Nice melding of flavors between the two sides of this frozen lozenge as you rotate it in your mouth. I think the critical addition to this course is the few sprinkles of salt that were perched on top. The salt enhanced the flavors of both the pineapple and the mustard and made everything "pop" more.

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Michigan Brook Trout Roe

Ginger, soy, papaya

Fukucho "Moon on the Water" Junmai Ginjo Sake, Hiroshima Prefecture

This golden trout roe is supplied to the restaurant through a friend of the chef. It's harvested prematurely in order to keep the shell of the roe as soft as possible. Layered from the bottom up were papaya, ginger, soy, and finally the trout roe. The roe was definitely great quality, soft and delicate...bursting with salty goodness. I made sure to eat each bite with the roe side landing downward onto the tongue in order to maximize the flavor perception and enjoyment.

I can't help but make note of an incident that occurred midway through this course. I won't go into details because I think that those are between the chef and his staff. But evidently, things were getting a bit loose and a mistake was made in moving some dishes through the kitchen. The normally mild mannered Chef Achatz stepped up and made it perfectly clear to everyone in that kitchen that elementary mistakes such as this were unacceptable. And sure enough, the atmosphere that had been a little buzzy and a little frenetic suddenly became focused and determined. Not to mention the fact, you could hear a pin drop for a long while after that. Eventually as the evening began to wind down, everyone once again loosened up.

But the reason I cite this incident is the remarkable fact that at such a relatively young age, Chef Achatz truly does have complete control of the kitchen and also has the utmost respect from his employees. In addition, it illustrates how truly passionate he is about what the kitchen delivers (as he should be.) I think everyone realized that they could have been a bit sharper...and that there's really no other choice in order to remain at the top of the nation's dining scene. If anything, I'm sure they felt terrible for letting the chef down.

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Puffed Lobster

Scrambled & Grated Lobster Coral, Grapefruit, lemongrass

After previously reading about this dish, I had expected the grapefruit flavor to be more pronounced that it actually was. Because of its size and texture the chip dominated the dish. But what was really successful was the awesome lobster broth pooled right below the chip. It was sweet, smooth, and salty with the strong essence of lobster. I would suggest pairing each bite of the chip with a sip of the broth. Also, I think that the form and visual aspect to this dish is really top notch.

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Alba White Truffle

Tagliatelle, Parmesan

Francois Villard "Contours de DePoncins" Viognier, Rhone 2001

My eyes lit up when I saw this one. It’s truffle season (albeit a relatively poor one this year) and I was hopeful we might get a glimpse of this heavenly tuber. This was an off the menu treat for the kitchen table. Even with the avant-garde philosophy at Trio, when you have a source ingredient of this quality, you owe it to the truffle to showcase it in a straightforward and traditional manner. This was right on the money…a bit of tagliatelle wrapped around the tines of a fork and topped with Parmesan and a couple generous shavings of truffle. As I slid this into my mouth I couldn’t help but close my eyes and revel in exquisite truffle aromas dancing on top of my tongue. It simply doesn’t get better than this.

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Dungeness Crab

Coconut milk, ten bridging garnishes

The coconut milk is served in a cylinder that is lifted tableside. The original preparation utilized a spherical ball that contained coconut milk but I forgot to ask why they switched. The garnishes included: cashew, passion fruit, young coconut, lime, fenugreek, avocado and Thai chili, ginger, and green tomato marmalade. Again, this was an opportunity to explore flavor variations. The richness of the coconut milk didn't seem to overpower the crab but rather provided a suitable backdrop to the textures and flavors used in the dish. And it was the milk's fragrance that stood out most. I marveled at the fenugreek pairing and how much it instantly reminded me of Old Bay Seasoning (a natural pairing with crab.) Alyssa felt that the ginger was also successful and invoked thoughts of a Chinese style crab preparation that utilizes ginger and green onion. One could also see a play on Mexican ceviche through the lime pairing. So I think the interesting aspect of this dish was it's "around the world" spin which allowed the diner to compare and contrast traditional and non-traditional crab preparations one right after the other.

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Sturgeon

Pumpkin, pumpkin seeds, matsutake mushroom

Mission Hill, Pinot Blanc 2002

A new dish whipped up for the kitchen table...I thought this was fantastic. In flavor and in concept, it's a perfect late-Fall dish. Thin strips of sturgeon were presented bacon-style, brined in maple and juniper and smoked with applewood chips. This fish preparation was interesting in its attempt to mirror aspects of bacon. The succulent and earthy mushrooms balanced well with the woodsy pumpkin seeds and the smoky fish. These flavors together with the pumpkin created a well-rounded, full flavor that clearly epitomizes what fall has to offer.

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Iowa Pork

Figs, truffles, fennel

Scarpantoni “School Block”, McLaren Vale, Australia 2001

It's about this point in the meal where you just have to hold back your glee at the sheer scope of the Tour de Force menu. I mean you've already enjoyed so many substantial courses with probably hundreds of ingredients and you still have many more to go!

This dish is great because you get several takes on the same ingredient. Featured are a pork loin medallion, pork rillette, and a black truffle steamed pork rib. All were fabulous. The rillette was not overly salty...a problem I've had at other restaurants. The rib meat was meltingly tender and delicious. And the medallion was lean and mild in flavor. The sweetness of the figs was a natural accompaniment and the slice of fennel at the bottom also went well with the meat. What's great with the dish was it showcased pork's different flavors, textures, and degrees of richness.

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Frozen Digestif Vinegar and Marigolds

These frozen discs of German sipping vinegar were brought to the table resting in grooves carved into the top of a large block of ice. The diner is given tongs in order to grab hold of the disc and is asked to immediately place it on one's tongue. It melts quickly and a sweet, delicate vinegar flavor envelops the tongue. It lasts not more than a few seconds but it is pleasing none the least.

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Breast and Leg of Wisconsin Pheasant

Autumnal fragrances

Bonny Doon "Le Cigare Volant", California 2000

The latest incarnation of Trio's signature vapor dishes. This time the focus is on autumnal fragrances that include hay, pumpkin, and apple. The arrangement seemed to create two different classes of aroma. The left side of the dish had the earthy, hay smell while the right side was more sweet and fruity smelling. However, in comparison to the "walk through the forest" pine vapor that preceded it, these autumnal smells were much less pronounced. I had to get closer to the dish in order to smell the vapor. The edible portion of this dish included two slices of pheasant breast, some dark meat leg pieces, pole beans, Brussel sprouts, and an apple cider nage. The foam on top had a nice sweet tang to it.

I've really bought into this whole vapor thing. I find there to be a really comforting quality to having warm, moist aromas rising from the dish. I think it really enhances the mood and psychology of the presentation. However, the pine vapor with rabbit was one of my all time favorite dishes and unfortunately, while respectable in it's own right, this rendition with pheasant didn't quite live up to my previous experience.

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Hereford Hop

Guinness, onions, fresh yeast

Rocha 20 year old Tawny Port, Douro, Portugal

Awesome. One of the best composed cheese courses I've had (along with the Manchego Textures we had at Trio back in May). This British cheese is coated with hop blossoms during production. It's somewhat firm yet rich and buttery at the same time. The sharpness and mild bitterness of the various accompaniments successfully play off the flavor of the cheese. Especially good were the two forms of onion: crystallized chip and pickled onion wedges. Also, portion size was right on the money. Many cheese courses I've had at other restaurants seem to have large amounts of cheese that can be a bit too overwhelming late in a meal. Yeah, sure, I could always leave the excess on the plate but I hate feeling like I'm wasting good food. The Hereford Hop was just right.

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Mango-Olive-Pistachio

Similar to the Mango-Yuzu capsule that we had back in May, this dish takes it a step further. This time the dehydrated mango capsule is longer and you are asked to bite off the top and suck out the powder inside. It's the chef's version of a pixie stick. The powder included pistachio, nicoise olive, cayenne pepper, and saffron. While I thought the powder flavors were mildly interesting together, they just didn't do it for Alyssa. But what we both agree on is that the mango capsule was great because of its crisp and delicate preparation.

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Tapioca of Roses

Raspberries, clove, cream

Ochs Blaufrankisch Eiswein, Neusiedlersee, Austria 2001

There are many reasons to love this dish. It's visually beautiful, it engages the diner, and it also helps educate you once again about relationship between scent and flavor. Having smelled both the rose and the raspberries, I can confirm that these scents are uncannily similar. Continuing the tubular theme of the last dish, this time the diner picks up a clear tube (cream side up) and sucks contents into one's mouth. Everything slides out remarkably well and the tapioca pearls impart a good textural contrast with the gelee. Of note was the fabulous pairing of the ice wine. The flavors of the wine perfectly mirrored the berry and floral flavors that were present in the dish.

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Liquid Mijao

Parmesan, quinoa, hazelnuts

Tamellini Recioto di Soave "Vigna Marogne", Veneto 1999

Featured Venezuelan chocolate with a gelatin outside and a liquid chocolate interior sitting on a quinoa custard base...an ingredient the chef wanted to use because of its essential amino acid content. A very unorthodox dessert but I really liked it. It wasn't overwhelming with the amount of chocolate used and I thought it worked well with the nuts and grapefruit. Overall, the entire dish was not too rich and it provided several different flavors to sample from which I appreciated.

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Tripod Hibiscus

A good ending to a great meal. The hibiscus ice pop was pleasantly flavored and was a joy to eat. The metal tripod legs collapse together to form a single stick to hold. Not only does it look cool but it also provides an invigorating and refreshing end to the meal.

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Chocolate truffles

Conclusion:

So after all that, what rose to the top? Well for me the standouts were the Puree of Chestnuts, White Truffle Tagliatelle, Pushed Foie Gras, the Sturgeon, and the Hereford Hop. Probably what intrigues me the most about many of the dishes is the balancing act between savory and sweet. Chef Achatz's seems to revel in the exploration of this relationship and I can happily report that most of the time he is on the money.

As would be expected, a clear autumnal theme resonated through the menu with extensive use of nuts, seeds, grains, and other earthy ingredients. Under this direction, many of the dishes showcased a richness and a fullness that was extremely pleasing. In addition, this thematic thread provided the meal with continuity from start to finish.

And how did the menu compare to what we received back in May? Well it's always hard to live up to a good first impression, but Trio managed to do it. While the highest highs of the first menu were slightly higher than those this time, I think that overall the menu is now stronger across the board.

I commend Chef Achatz for his prolific repriotoire and his desire to keep things fresh and exciting. Did I miss the "walk through the forest" dish this time? Well, somewhat yes, but that was greatly overshadowed by the fact that most of the menu is completely new. And it's not just a different protein or starch switched out here or there. The menu is ever evolving and from a conceptual level it continues to strive for new forms of presentation and consumption. For return visitors such as ourselves, things are always guaranteed to be exciting.

In most of my reviews, I spend a few moments discussing service...good and bad. Although some may disagree, I feel that when it comes to dining at the kitchen table, service is not as much of an issue. I could nit pick a few instances where silverware wasn't properly set before the dishes arrived, etc. But at the 'KT', service is really secondary to the whole experience.

To put it another way, when you're out in the dining room you have very little choice but to inwardly reflect on your table. And in that case, the manner in which your table is handled is a larger issue. But with the excitement that surrounds you in the kitchen, your attention shifts elsewhere. No longer are you paying as much attention to the mechanics...you're spending your time watching the action and absorbing the overall energy.

I found the kitchen table to be a refreshingly real experience lacking any pretentiousness. It was more about the enjoyment of discussing amazingly artistic food and wine with people who are really passionate about what they do.

The kitchen table really is what you make it. If you want strict formality, I'm sure they'd give it to you. But for us, we were looking to learn more about the people that comprise the Trio team. We enjoyed the friendly conversations with the chef and his staff and learning about how various people ended up working at the restaurant. The kitchen table allows you to spend time getting to know not only the philosophy behind the food but also about the people who breathe the soul into that same food.

After spending a mind blowing six hours meal (boy the time flew by...it felt more like three to me) in the kitchen, I count many of these people as friends who I hope to visit with again in the future.

View more of my food photography from the world's finest restaurants:

FineDiningPhotos.com

Posted

Wow! Thanks for the amazing write-up and pictures. I'm eating at the kitchen table in just 2 weeks, so this is a really good sneak preview for me, since I expect many of the dishes will be the same.

Tammy's Tastings

Creating unique food and drink experiences

eGullet Foodblogs #1 and #2
Dinner for 40

Posted (edited)

That's simply an amazing report, jeffj. Great photographs.

The action shots really punch up your presentation.

Edited by Jinmyo (log)

"I've caught you Richardson, stuffing spit-backs in your vile maw. 'Let tomorrow's omelets go empty,' is that your fucking attitude?" -E. B. Farnum

"Behold, I teach you the ubermunch. The ubermunch is the meaning of the earth. Let your will say: the ubermunch shall be the meaning of the earth!" -Fritzy N.

"It's okay to like celery more than yogurt, but it's not okay to think that batter is yogurt."

Serving fine and fresh gratuitous comments since Oct 5 2001, 09:53 PM

Posted

From someone over the seas, who never expects to be able to eat there, your report has been invaluable. Thanks for taking the time. Amazing photographs too.

"Gimme a pig's foot, and a bottle of beer..." Bessie Smith

Flickr Food

"111,111,111 x 111,111,111 = 12,345,678,987,654,321" Bruce Frigard 'Winesonoma' - RIP

Posted

One dish you didn't go into much detail on was the "salad". What makes it different from a salad?

Bill Russell

Posted

Although this is too sophisticated for me to engage in a dialogue I wanted to add my appreciation for the time and effort to post the review and all those wonderful pics!

Anna Nielsen aka "Anna N"

...I just let people know about something I made for supper that they might enjoy, too. That's all it is. (Nigel Slater)

"Cooking is about doing the best with what you have . . . and succeeding." John Thorne

Our 2012 (Kerry Beal and me) Blog

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Posted

A great, great report. Can you talk a little bit more about vapors. I mean, do you eat it or do you just smell it? I still can't quite grasp the concept of tasting compared to, well, eating, but it looks like an interesting experience. I'm also interested in the salad. And do you leave Trio feeling stuffed, satisfied, or a little hungry?

Posted

The "salad" is a very small portion, served with a tiny spoon that looks like a baby's spoon.

It's a melange of variously flavored ices, including arugula, radicchio (IIRC), oil, vinegar, and salt and pepper. The "salad" in other words, is basically just shaved, flavored ice. When you put it in your mouth it tastes dead-on like a really well prepared salad. My wife and I burst into laughter at the first taste.

Don Moore

Nashville, TN

Peace on Earth

Posted

Thank you very much for your time and effort, looked like you enjoyed some great wines with the meal, as well. Hoping to have the opportunity to go to Trio in the near future. :biggrin:

Patrick Sheerin

Posted
Chef Achatz truly does have complete control of the kitchen and also has the utmost respect from his employees. In addition, it illustrates how truly passionate he is about what the kitchen delivers (as he should be.) I think everyone realized that they could have been a bit sharper...and that there's really no other choice in order to remain at the top of the nation's dining scene. If anything, I'm sure they felt terrible for letting the chef down.

My favorite part of the entire post. Most leaders fail to remember the importance of respect from the team. It has to come before everything else and must continually grow in order to open the doors to creativity.

Future Food - our new television show airing 3/30 @ 9pm cst:

http://planetgreen.discovery.com/tv/future-food/

Hope you enjoy the show! Homaro Cantu

Chef/Owner of Moto Restaurant

www.motorestaurant.com

Posted

jeffj, I want to join others in thanking you for that great report and those great pictures. This is one of the best reviews I've read on eGullet.

Michael aka "Pan"

 

Posted
Chef Achatz truly does have complete control of the kitchen and also has the utmost respect from his employees. In addition, it illustrates how truly passionate he is about what the kitchen delivers (as he should be.)  I think everyone realized that they could have been a bit sharper...and that there's really no other choice in order to remain at the top of the nation's dining scene.  If anything, I'm sure they felt terrible for letting the chef down. 

My favorite part of the entire post. Most leaders fail to remember the importance of respect from the team. It has to come before everything else and must continually grow in order to open the doors to creativity.

you mean he doesn't cuss, yell, scream, carry-on like a child, denigrate his staff, and throw things in the kitchen? how can a restaurant possibly survive without these things. :smile:

Posted

Gorgeous, thank you!

What's wrong with peanut butter and mustard? What else is a guy supposed to do when we are out of jelly?

-Dad

Posted

As was previously mentioned:

your review and photos were absolutely awesome!

Many thanks for taking the time to share.

...I thought I had an appetite for destruction but all I wanted was a club sandwich.

Posted

Thanks! This was one of the best posts I have ever read. Trio was at the top of my list of restaurants to get to before, but now it is an absolute must.

By the way, welcome to eGullet!

John Sconzo, M.D. aka "docsconz"

"Remember that a very good sardine is always preferable to a not that good lobster."

- Ferran Adria on eGullet 12/16/2004.

Docsconz - Musings on Food and Life

Slow Food Saratoga Region - Co-Founder

Twitter - @docsconz

Posted

In her editor's note this month, Gourmet's Ruth Reichl noted and praised a new credit card-sized camera, saying it would have made her job a lot easier if it had been around when she reviewed restaurants.

The Trio report was excellent. This sort of thing just blows away what newspapers and magazines are able to do. eGullet may yet change the whole nature of restaurant reviewing and reporting.

Arthur Johnson, aka "fresco"
Posted
Wait a second; wasn't this digital photography? Are you sure a flash was used?

chefg doesn't allow flash photography in the dining room (awbrig asked when we went). they were in the kitchen where the flash probably didn't bother anyone.

thanks for the report jeff. i'm very impressed that you went to superdawg and trio on the same day like holly moore.

Posted
The Trio report was excellent. This sort of thing just blows away what newspapers and magazines are able to do. eGullet may yet change the whole nature of restaurant reviewing and reporting.

This sounds very exciting. Hmmmmmmmm.........the napster of restaurant reviewing. Whether they want it or not, its here for good and its a good time to revolt.

Future Food - our new television show airing 3/30 @ 9pm cst:

http://planetgreen.discovery.com/tv/future-food/

Hope you enjoy the show! Homaro Cantu

Chef/Owner of Moto Restaurant

www.motorestaurant.com

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