Jump to content

MobyP

eGullet Society staff emeritus
  • Content Count

    2,207
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Recent Profile Visitors

2,222 profile views
  1. Had an awesome lunch here today, sitting 15 feet from Alain Ducasse and his head chef, both of whom were mopping up the sauces with bits of bread and generally scraping the enamel off the plates. Mikael's constant new dishes make this place very special - today I had the new oyster with watercress gelee - Mikael sous-vides the oyster - which I thought would've been a crime, but apparently not - which gives it the texture of a barely-set custard. With the gelee and watercress, absolutely marvellous. Also new, the excellent crab with cauliflower. The jammy dodger to start with (I think he shoul
  2. It's Hugo, having discovered a time machine 25 years from now, decided to return to a time when Hedone wasn't a chain of hamburger and fried squid outlets.
  3. http://www.flickr.com/photos/jaxies/sets/72157627132268209/with/5964925490/
  4. I've had several astonishing meals here now. Disclosure, I'm also a friend (from egullet days) of Mikael. Went in for another few dishes last night and had an amazing meal, though I'm not sure why I was actually amazed. Things have been refined. Nothing is static. Actually had three perfect dishes. Haven't gotten over them today. One of Mikael's signatures (ridiculous to say signature after such a short time open, but still) is his flans (horrible word indicating divine set savoury custard). The umami flan with nori coulis has somehow gotten deeper in flavour. Mikael often juxtaposes elements
  5. I've had scallops at L'Ambroisie three times here's one of them, served with black truffle and jerusalem artichoke puree - http://www.flickr.com/photos/mobyp/1108440...57594095692807/ There the cooking style is different. My impression is that they are steamed through, rather than the graded cooking of most restaurants. The awsome quality of the scallops always shone through, despite the boldness of the other flavours.
  6. Hey Aaron, nice review. I'm glad I got to share your meal. About those scallops, (and this may be a conversation to be had amongst the terminally anal, of which I undoubtedly count myself) but I don't think those scallops were overcooked - the texture of the raw scallops were far more structured, more plastic-y, rather than the rubberyness of Scottish and Maine scallops. It is also because of the extreme freshness. I think this came across in the cooked versions too. I thought they were amongst the best scallops I've had, perhaps second only to the Ambroisie versions (which probably came from
  7. Er ... is this actually possible? This particular combinations isn't something I would complain about, were it to - er - present itself to me, as it were.
  8. MobyP

    The Terrine Topic

    served with pickled figs. http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3180/298397..._d4a9ca22ab.jpg
  9. MobyP

    The Terrine Topic

    This worked out well, although the tube of foie collapsed slightly in the cooking. It enabled me to add a game bird gelee (pigeon, grouse, partridge, woodcock) which was great. http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3034/297694..._5ff8abdcdb.jpg ETA: again adapted Culnary Bears gibier farce (posted above somewhere), substituting some chx livers for pigeon and a little foie. Also I approximated a quatre epice with some nutmeg, cloves and a little ginger. Also his pastry recipe: pastry : 570g bread flour 45g milk powder 7g baking powder 15g salt 100g lard (I used duck fat) 75g butter 2 eggs tbsp vinega
  10. MobyP

    The Terrine Topic

    p.s. Ian - where's the croute in the serving picture?
  11. MobyP

    The Terrine Topic

    Take a spoon full of the stock, place on small plate, put plate in fridge. After several minutes, when cold, examine to see if stock has begun to gel or if it's still just thin and runny. Add experience plus gelatinous things to your stocks like pig trotters and you'll get there in no time.
  12. MobyP

    The Terrine Topic

    That looks really great. I'm trying to do the same thing today (althoguh I still haven't got a stupid mold) except with a torchon of foie down the middle.
  13. MobyP

    The Terrine Topic

    My understanding is that the Troisgros boys first started using sous vide (I mean that they were literally the first non-industrial commercial kitchen to use it) as a way of controlling fat loss from their foie terrines.
  14. A very nice meal here today. Highlights of mackerel with a cucumber cream, suckling pig, and both nettle and fresh almond soups. Pictures here
×
×
  • Create New...