Wine Tasting Notes 2003

[SFJoe]

I was kidding. I've liked their wines going back to the '89. They even made a decent '92.

[Robin Meredith]

Given the fervor surrounding the 2001 vintage in Germany (and the speed with which some of the hotter items are disappearing from retail shelves), I thought it might be fun to share some of our experiences with wines from this vintage.

I'll kick things off with the following:

2001 Strub Niersteiner Kabinett

(1.0 liter bottles, $8.99 at The Wine Shop on 1st Avenue in NYC as of last week, 87 rating from RP)

I have to admit, I didn't pay as much attention to this wine as I probably should have - partly a function of the format and price, no doubt. But I came away with the distinct impression that it was alive - almost like an incredibly fresh piece of fish that almost seems to quiver on your plate. Bright, bouncy, well-balanced, capable of short-term aging but incredibly delicious now. Since this is the German equivalent of a village Burgundy (no vineyard designation), I can't wait to start tasting a little further up the quality ladder in this vintage.

Speaking of up the ladder, just ordered a case of Schaefer Wehlener Sonnenuhr Kabinett - assuming the retailer actually comes through, notes on that one will follow.

[Sandra Levine]

The Wine Shop on 1st Avenue .

Can you be a little more specific about location, please?

[Robin Meredith]

Sorry - it really is called The Wine Shop (I wasn't being lazy), and it's located between 82nd and 83rd on 1st Avenue. Or:

The Wine Shop

If you visit the web site, keep in mind that they don't seem to have real time inventory tracking, so things may appear to be in stock that really aren't.

[jparrott]

Here are my notes from a Rudi Wiest portfolio tasting from this past summer. Vintages are 2001 except where noted. Letter grades reflect my view of VALUE, based on the wholesale prices provided us at the tasting.

Karthauserhof, Estate QbA trocken: Almost Pfalz-like, with pure stoney elements. Not elegant, but expressive for QbA. C

Karthauserhof, Eitelsbacher Karthauserhofberg Kabinett: A bit clunky and sulfury. D

Karthauserhof, Eitelsbacher Karthauserhofberg Spatlese: Very very nice and focused, much more typical, but drinking awfully well now B

Karthauserhof, Eitelsbacker Karthauserhofberg Auslese: Melony and elegant, with a core that really comes out with air. An ager and for medium-term, equal to the Weins-Prum Auslese. B-

Karthauserhof, Eitelsbacker Karthauserhofberg Auslese trocken: A rarity, requiring a very physiologically ripe year. Compelling and floral, with a slate core that is the only thing that makes it different from a Wachau Smaragd. A great restaurant wine that will also age forever. B

von Buhl, Estate QbA trocken: Musty, with little fruit definition despite the fine mineral core. C

von Buhl, Estate Spatlese trocken: Melon, lemongrass, ripe chalk and slate. Very long. Very backward. Very fine. B

von Buhl, Kabinett "Armand": Honeyed and jammy, a bit obvious for Pfalz. B-

von Buhl, Forster Jesuitengarten Spatlese: Another wine that really tightened with air. Spicy, very Pfalzen. A long ager. B+

Zilliken, Estate QbA: Balanced but lacking cut and core. Breakfast wine? :-) B

Zilliken, Estate QbA halbtrocken: Riper nose, but otherwise showing the same minor flaws as the regular QbA. B+

Zilliken, Saarburger Rausch Kabinett: Pulsating attack with real complexity and interest, tho the core is not as solid or steely as the Rheingaus. Good medium-term. B+

Zilliken, Saarburger Rausch Spatlese: High-toned, a bit minty, suggesting some vineyard problems. But very complex now. B

Zilliken, Saarburger Rausch Spatlese 1991: Peppery, spicy, but a very fresh core of fruit. Probably from an extra cold cellar. A real treat and fabulous food wine. B+

Gunderloch, Estate QbA trocken: Perfumed nose, but none of the extra definition that a trocken should show. C

Gunderloch, Kabinett "Jean Baptiste": Unconvincing...my notes read "Trimbach pinot blanc?" F

Gunderloch, Nackenheimer Rothenberg Spatlese: very nice, very floral, about as good as Rheinhessen can get. C+

Gunderloch, Nackenheimer Rothenberg Auslese: 100% botrytis. No structure. F

Gunderloch, Nackenheimer Rothenberg Auslese GK: Fat and more defined, but short. Not concentrated enough for the level of botrytis. N/R (no price)

Pfeffingen, Estate QbA trocken: Floral, with an intriguing herbal edge. Great food wine. A-

Pfeffingen, Kabinett halbtrocken "Pfeffo": Compelling, sappy, floral, focused, complex. Wonderful, long-lived kabinett. A

Pfeffingen, Ungsteiner Herrenberg Spatlese: Honeyed and ripe, but less food-friendly than the kab. B-

Pfeffingen, Ungsteiner Herrenberg Scheurebe Spatlese: Powdery, with fat tangering fruit. Candied. More interesting than the riesling spatlese. B

Pfeffingen, Ungsteiner Herrenberg Scheurebe Auslese: Red fruity, rich, high-toned, expansive but maybe a bit too expansive. C

Wirsching, estate Silvaner QbA trocken: Washed out, soave-like. Hard to taste in this context. C

Robert Weil, Estate QbA trocken: herbal and floral accents to the beam of fruit. Very typical and nice. A-

Furst, Burgstadter Centgraf. Muller-Thurgau Kabinett 2000: A bit like a dry gewurz, but without stuffing. C+

Furst, Burgstadter Centgraf. Riesling Kabinett trocken 2000: Like a federspiel, well defined for the style and level of ripeness. Impressive. C-

Wirsching, Iphofer Kronsberg Scheurebe Kabinett: herbal and unfocused. F

Furst, Volkacher Karthauser Silvaner Spatlese trocken 2000: unfocused. Would be better with a bit of RS. F

Schloss Lieser, Estate QbA halbtrocken: Perfumed, nice structure, but restrained fruit. Nice now. B

Wegeler, Estate QbA halbtrocken: Sappy, spicy, crystalline. An ager and another Rhiengau winner. A

Kunstler, Estate QbA halbtrocken: A lot going on, with steely melon and mineral and a little honey. Very nice for early drinking. B+

Robert Weil, Estate Kabinett halbtrocken: Ripe and balanced, but a bit diffuse. C

Rudi Wiest 1999 "Mosel River Selection": Very ripe, but balanced and good minerality. A-

Rudi Wiest 2001 "Rhein River Selection": Linear and focused. Classy and steely. A

von Hovel 2000 Estate QbA: Honeycomb, lemon, not much structure. Forgettable. C+

Bert Simon, Estate QbA halbtrocken: Very floral, but diffuse on the finish B

Monchhof, Estate QbA: Very big, extracted and honeyed, not a great food wine. B-

Bert Simon, Serriger Herrenberg Kabinett: Minty and a bit herbal, with quite some complexity. B+

von Hovel, Oberemmeler Hutte Kabinett: Focus, focus and more focus. An archetype. A-

Monchhof, Kabinett "Astor": Rich, but a floral spine keeps it from being clunky. B+

Schloss Lieser, Estate Kabinett: sulfury N/R

Milz, Neumagener Nusswingert Kabinett: Less ripe fruit, more apple-focused. Drink soon, but nice. B-

Kunstler, Hochheimer Reichestal Kabinett: Beautiful. Pure slate and almost Nahe-like red fruit and Rheingau flowers. Wow. A-

Weins-Prum, Graacher Domprobst Kabinett: Crystalline and expressive, food friendly. A-

Weins-Prum, Wehlener Sonnenuhr Kabinett: Powdered slate, focused. Beautiful fruit. A

Milz, Trittenheimer Leitarchen Spatlese: Closed but fat, lacking cut. D

Milz, Trittenheimer Felsenkopf Spatlese: Deep, complex, and focused. Very nice. B

von Hovel Oberemmeler Hutte Spatlese: Dry honey, lemongrass and crushed flowers. Nice. B+

Monchhof, Urziger Wurzgarten Spatlese: Lots of minerals, but a bit acid deficient. Great near-term, though not that expressive. B

Weins-Prum, Graacher Domprobst Spatlese: So ripe, so focused, maybe too ripe? Tasty, though not completely compelling. C+

Weins-Prum, Wehlener Sonnenuhr Spatlese: Acid-deficient. C

Wegeler, Estate Spatlese: Too ripe, too rich for much interest. C-

Wegeler, Bernkasteler Doktor Spatlese: Coiled, minerally, already starting to shut. A long ager. C+

Haart, Piesporter Goldtropfchen Spatlese: Sulfury. N/R

Robert Weil, Estate Spatlese: ripe, reserved, complex minerals and a dollop of beautiful spice. Wonderful. B

Kunstler, Hochheimer Kirchenstuck Spatlese: Sappy, crystalline, ripe flowers and lime curd, great structure. Utterly compelling. B

Wegeler, Rudesheimer Berg Rottland Spatlese: Honeycomb, more lime character. Very nice. B+

Schloss Lieser, Niederberger Helden Auslese: sulfury. N/R

Bert Simon, 1989 Serriger Wurzberg Auslese #32: Shut. Wonderful potential. A

Weins-Prum, Wehlener Sonnenuhr Auslese: Beautiful, huge minerals. Balanced and compelling, especially with air. A-

Haart, Piesporter Goldtropfchen Auslese: sulfury. N/R

Wegeler, Geisenheimer Rothenberg Auslese: Great structure, the most structure of the Wegelers. Very nice. B+

Meyer-Nakel, 2000 Pinot Noir "S": Woody and mature, like a 1994 Oregon. Nice enough, I guess. F

[Steve Plotnicki]

The best wine I've had, not that I've had that many, although every one I've had was good or better, was the 2001 Maximum Gruenhauser Von Shubert Auslese. Killer stuff. I'd like to lay a case of that stuff away for 15-20 years.

[jaybee]

The best wine I've had, not that I've had that many, although every one I've had was good or better, was the 2001 Maximum Gruenhauser Von Shubert Auslese. Killer stuff. I'd like to lay a case of that stuff away for 15-20 years.

I thought that 2001 Christofle reisling kabinette I brought to Thomas Beisel was very good. I wish I could remember the name.

[MartyL]

I thought that 2001 Christofle reisling kabinette I brought to Thomas Beisel was very good. I wish I could remember the name.

I wasn't there, but chances are it was either the Urziger Wurzgarten or the Erdener Treppchen. Both wines are excellent in 2001, although personally I prefer the Urziger Wurzgarten for its higher acidity and spiciness.

[Yaacov]

The best wine I've had, not that I've had that many, although every one I've had was good or better, was the 2001 Maximum Gruenhauser Von Shubert Auslese. Killer stuff. I'd like to lay a case of that stuff away for 15-20 years.

Steve: Abtsberg or Herrenberg? Interestingly, TWA's recent non-mention of this great house caused quite a stir in the Riesling-loving community. I bought some, sparingly, and have burried it in the recesses of my cellar.

As for 2001, I strongly believe that Christoffel was most successful across the board. Other standouts include: J.J. Prum, Donnhoff, Merkelbach, J. Leitz, Fritz Haag, Selbach-Oster and Willi Schaefer, to name just a few.

Marty: Interesting how you characterize the Erd. Trep. vs. Urz. Wurz. I find that the Erd. Trep. shows more apparent acidity now (though I agree with the spicyness remark -- it is, after all, a "spice garden"). If you haven't tasted it, the Erdener Treppchen ** Auslese is out of this world amazing.

-yb

edited after the brain fart of forgetting the amazing J.J. Prum!!

Edited January 28, 2003 by Yaacov (log)

[Christopher]

The best wine I've had, not that I've had that many, although every one I've had was good or better, was the 2001 Maximum Gruenhauser Von Shubert Auslese. Killer stuff. I'd like to lay a case of that stuff away for 15-20 years.

Steve: Abtsberg or Herrenberg?

My question as well because I was surprisingly underwhelmed by the Abstberg at a tasing in Sept. I do have high expectations for Dr. Carl though and may have been more unforgiving ...

OK, here's my list in no particular order all from this killer vintage.

Best new vineyard (to me) wine

Kloster Eberbach Hocheimer Domdechaney Riesling Kabinett Champion. Slate, stone, searing acidity and defined green apple flavors without being over tart - a wonderful discovery, especialy for the intense mineral quality.

Surprising QbA's

Kendermann Roter Hang Riesling Trocken At 12.1 degrees for a Rheinhessen QbA this wine clearly shows off the vintage. Blood oranges with hints of darker fruits. Incredible value.

W.Z.-Graeff-Muller Weissbugunder Classic* QbA Pfalz 12.5 degrees with 9.4grams residual sugar and yet this was a slam dunk with raw oysters. The acid from this was shocking.

Old Favorites

Lingenfelder Goldberg Old Vines Scheurebe Spatlese I have a fondness for Rainer Lingenfelder and for his comittment to Scheurebe, whcih can be clumsy in the wrong hands. Yes, this is like drinking a grapefruit and I love it.

Georg Breuer "B" a new bottling of Spatburgunder for Bernhard Breuer, which was really a barrel sample. Way too early but more and more I am looking to German Pinot Noirs when I'm not going for Burgundy proper. (Yes, I read the other thread and agree with SP all the way & I would drink from the Rheingau before California.)

St. Urbans-Hof Ockfener Bockstein Riesling Kabinett Mineral and pine, almost too herbacious but the fruit keeps it in check.

Johannishof Rudesheimer Berg Rottland Riesling Auslese There isn't a wine I'd rather have with cheeses or certain game meats. Sweet, yes, but with clove, ginger and pepper with, of course, perfectly balanced acidity.

New Friends

Kruger-Rumpf Sekt. I think most Sekt could and should peel paint and remove rust. But Stefan Rumpf made a Sekt from Spatlese level Riesling grapes that was delightful and truly unique the varietal character really came alive. And from the Nahe.

Basserman-Jordan Forster Ungeheuer Riesling Spatlese trocken Spice and lemon zest. L-O-N-G finish. I feel like the last guy to discover this winery. Now I see it everywhere.

Donnhoff Oberhauser Bruke Riesling Spatlese This is what chardonnay thinks it is in it's wildest dreams. Riesling on steroids with character. $$$$

Most bizzare

E. Gebhardt Markbreiter Sonnenberg Domina QbA Troken Pinot Noir crossed with Portugeiser

* FWIW I think this whole 'Classic' and 'Selection' grading is ridiculous

Edited January 29, 2003 by Christopher (log)

[Yaacov]

My question as well because I was surprisingly underwhelmed by the Abstberg at a tasing in Sept.

Christopher:

It seems folks are split down the middle on Grunhaus 2001. I've had a few older wines that I've loved, but when I tasted the 2001, i too found them, well, at least strange in that they didn't have the glorious ripeness and balance of other better 2001s.

That said, i did buy 10 mixed bottles of spatlese and auslese to put away for a long time because of this producer's track record and reputation for actually requiring a good deal of time to come around...only time will tell i guess...

best,

yb

[delights]

I have bought a few years ago some 1977 saint julien,

chateau ducru beaucaillou and talbot.

The reason was the price was sage because of the year.

1977 was a nightmare year as it rained a lot and merlot and cabernet were so poor.

A few days ago,i suddenly decided to open 2 bottles of these saint julien.

I thought this would be a nightmare.

Oh but 25 years ago,the result was very pleasant but

riches of tannins.

I can't explain why it was so gead.

Did the years give to the wine what 1977 didn't give in quality?

I would be happy to see if someone has the same experience as I

Sometimes poor years give happy surprises.

[Craig Camp]

Kalin Cellars Chardonnay, Cuvee LR, Sonoma County, 1988

The color is a dark..... that reminds me I have to make an appointment for my annual physical. Anyway, the nose is rich and full of butterscotch and butter with a surprising strong mineral component and a touch of lime. Full and round in the mouth with a firm almost tart backbone balancing the ripe tropical fruit (mango?) fruit and oak. The finish is firm with a stony/lime tartness to help carry all that richness and butterscotch. This was a pleasant surprise as I expected it to be shot and when I saw the color, well...

Certainly not a wine to keep any longer but at this point is is a very interesting and complex wine showing both richness and a firm structure to carry its weight and oxidation.

[fyfas]

I would have been nervous, too, over an '88 but my impression of Kalin has always been that they are made to age; do age well as the old Stony Hill chardonnays did.

I've always loved the Kalin Potter Valley Sauvignon Blanc which they don't even release for 3+ years after bottling because it improves so with age.

[Craig Camp]

Le Colline, Monsecco Gattinara, Piemonte, 1978

When you taste wines like this you want to go burn all the barriques in Piemonte. Why anyone would want to destroy such a great wine is sad.

A brilliant translucent scarlet with just a touch of orange at the edge. The aromas are explosive and delicate at the same time, full of the smell of fresh leather and dark wild cherries. The combination of silky and astringent flavors in the mouth are amazing. The delicious round, warm dark bitter cherry and cassis fruit flavors are mixed with a strong backbone of rich tannin. The complexity of this wine in the nose and on the palate is wonderful. The long finish sums up all the complexities of the aromas and flavors and lasts almost forever.

A wine at its peak and the best Gattinara I have tasted.

[Robin Meredith]

2001 Basserman-Jordan Forster Jesuitgarten Spatlese

This received some favorable comments from David Schildknecht (sp?) in the IWC, and a 1990 Kabinett from this producer tasted a few weeks ago was drinking beautifully, so my expectations were fairly high, but I have to say I don't really connect with this wine. It's undeniably delicious, but no more so than some of the basic Kabinetts and qbA's I've tasted from this vintage, and it seems a bit flabby and one-dimensional. I keep looking for the "grip" I think this wine should have, but I'm coming to the conclusion that it's just not there.

Of course, it could pick up some complexity with time, but I'm just not sure there's enough acid here to make that happen. I bought this with an eye toward picking up some quantity for the cellar, but I think I'll probably move on to the next item.

$19.99 from The Wine Shop, First Avenue between 82nd and 83rd, NYC.

[pixelchef]

I'm relatively new (see: extremely) to the wonderful world of wine, but I'm practicing every day! :) I picked up Cave Springs' Riesling Reserve tonight after having it recommended by quite a few people. I'm happy to say I was absolutely not let down. Gorgeous riesling.

Green gold in colour. Intense riesling nose, developing petrol already. Deep pear / peach and apple fruit on the nose. Off-dry on the palate, very rich, mouthfilling, great acidity, lemony-lime character. Long clean finish that lasts and lasts - should be great to cellar. Nice and smooth.

[Beachfan]

Nice note, thanks.

[estufarian]

The Ontario climate is perfectly suited to Riesling. I think it's consistently been their best grape variety. But the sad thing is - it just doesn't sell. So we get 'hundreds' of watered down chardonnays instead - which are 'usually' inferior to the cheaper imports. In quality terms, there are some that compare favourably to the 'fringe' Burgundy styles (excluding the Cote d'Or), and also Chablis styles, but too often they're overoaked.

Still, there seem to be some good examples of gewurztraminer surfacing too, so there's still hope that eventually Ontario will find the varietals best suited to the climate and geography. There may yet be an upside to the extreme cold weather that has recently killed some of the warmer weather suited vines. Realistically, fine wine production is barely 25 years old here so there's still time. Maybe the forthcoming world-wide overproduction will force us to specialize in the areas where quality is paramount.

[Robin Meredith]

That's a great tasting note coming from someone who's "extremely" new to wine!

Glad to see more observations on Ontario wines coming through. Regarding your comment about petrol flavors - I love Niagara Peninsula Riesling dearly, but they do seem to be a bit precocious. I didn't get up there to buy any 2000's, but most of my 1999's seem to be evolving quite rapidly, including two of my favorites (Daniel Lenko Reserve and Stoney Ridge Reserve). I have almost a full case of 1997 Early Harvest and Late Harvest Rieslings from Thirty Bench in the cellar, and I'm almost afraid to approach them at this point (nothing worse than finding out you let a bunch of bottles go over the hill on you).

Meanwhile, I've been cleaning out some odds and ends from the German section of the cellar recently (mostly from 1990 and 1992), and have yet to find a single bottle that was past its prime (with the exception of one Scheurebe, which I never should have kept that long in the first place).

I find this odd, since the Ontario wines seem to have an impressive amount of "grip" in their youth.

[GordonCooks]

Cave Spring make some of my favorite Reislings and Chardonnays - I dined with the winemaker more than a few times and he's probably the best-traveled guy I know. Angelo Pavan spends extensive time in Burgundy, Italy, The finger lakes region, etc researching and talking to other winemakers.

[Florida Jim]

My perfect Sunday

Up with the sun, as the dogs are stirring and will need their walk soon.

I make a cup of espresso, do up any dishes left from last night and put away those already done. Then come get the “girls” and its around the block on clean, cool, Florida morning.

Another cup, and then we all head in to rouse Diane; several minutes on the bed getting reacquainted.

Diane makes scones served with fresh raspberries and yogurt. I do the crossword puzzle. The girls eat breakfast and then take-up patrolling the yard with noses active. The morning wiles away.

About 11:30, I give brother John a call; we are on for lunch and racing. I clean-up from breakfast, walk the girls again, run to the store for bread and head for John’s. Today is BLT’s and John has found some very lean bacon that he slow cooks throughout the afternoon. A little blueberry pie tops it off.

We watch the NASCAR race and it turns out to be one of the most exciting ever.

Then its back home; do a little e-mail, finish the crossword, flip on Good Eats – Alton Brown cracks me up. Diane has made mushroom lasagna with béchamel sauce while I was gone and we sit down to a big salad and a portion of the lasagna with a glass or two of:

1998 Cantina del Pino, Barbaresco “Ovello”:

very expansive nose of rose petals, red fruits, tree bark, earth and spice/

full body, extremely rich but still graceful in the mouth, deep flavors follow the nose, very substantial tannins are fine and not bitter, concentrated and intense, well-balanced/

long, grippy finish.

Better with the food with the tannins so prevalent but still a fine wine even if opened before its time. A Garagiste suggestion and, at $35 delivered, one I am happy to have more of in the cellar.

Once more around the block with the girls, a bit of washing-up from dinner, a shower and off to bed.

Its that simple.

Best, Jim

[carpet bagger]

So what do you do on your day off?

[Craig Camp]

Welcome Florida Jim to eGullet! we look forward to seeing your tasting notes here.

I have heard about the 1998 Cantina del Pino, Barbaresco “Ovello” always with very positive reviews. Is sounds like a steal at $35 - and that includes the shipping right? Its nice to know that there are still Barolo and Barberesco out there under $75.00. I've got to track some down before its gone.

Garagiste seems to be doing a good job.

[mamster]

I drank two 2001 Selbachs tonight. First, QbA Piesporter Michelsberg, $7 from European Selections (I think that's the name) in Seattle. I opened this yesterday, actually, and while it tastes fine, it has an overwhelmingly sulfurous nose which didn't dissipate overnight. I believe the technical term is that it smells really crappy. It's light and acidic with little overall character, would be okay drunk out of a tumbler so you don't have to smell it, and frankly mostly I got it because I wanted to taste it alongside the...

Selbach-Oster Zeltinger Schlossberg Auslese, $22 from Pike and Western in Seattle. First the sweetness, then the acidity, then, well, I've brushed my teeth and I can still taste the mineral flavors, like pulling a rock out of a clear mountain stream and licking it (which would be cheaper, but you might get giardiasis). Not that I have scads of experience, but this is everything I want out of a riesling. Give me a hip flask full of this stuff. I am so glad most people don't like German wines so I can get this for $22.

Now, whether I could actually tell the great 2001s from 2000s or anything else, probably not. But I'm happy.