eG Cook-Off #68: Citrus Fruits

[Smithy]

That's beautiful work, David. The peeled slices remind me of the lacy crisps that one gets from baking shredded cheese in little flattened patties until it's crisp - I forget what those are called (ducks head in shame) but they always look pretty when someone gets them right.

Do you think, in retrospect, that the parchment paper blocked circulation? Would these have been more or less sticky if put on a grate over a baking sheet? Would you have been able to get them off the grate when finished?

[David Ross]

That's beautiful work, David. The peeled slices remind me of the lacy crisps that one gets from baking shredded cheese in little flattened patties until it's crisp - I forget what those are called (ducks head in shame) but they always look pretty when someone gets them right.

Do you think, in retrospect, that the parchment paper blocked circulation? Would these have been more or less sticky if put on a grate over a baking sheet? Would you have been able to get them off the grate when finished?

I had considered putting them over a fine mesh screen, but decided against it and went with the parchment Ducasse calls for.  I will however try it with my screen next time. I haven't tried that method for fruit slices, but I have for veggies and baked goods.  I usually spray it with non-stick spray first so that helps with the sticking issue.  One downfall of using the screen is it leaves a cross-hatch imprint on the food.  That's o.k. for the bottom of a pizza crust, but probably wouldn't look great on my orange slices.  This is another great cause for more experimentation and I like my new approach of testing all the elements first.  I typically go into a new dish blind and put everything together at the same time, but using my new approach I can test the garnishes, lemon filling, chocolate sauce and pastry crust first. 

[Darienne]

What about a thin layer of glass curtain on the screen.  I have some glass curtains...from a much earlier visit to Utah...and I find them useful for all sorts of things, like keeping flies and fruitflies at bay when leaving things out to cool, and instead of cheesecloth...not quite the same, but they do work...mind is currently a blank, but I do use them a lot.  They will let all the air in for the drying of the orange slices and not leave a pattern.  I think.  It's just a thought.

 

Really enjoying reading about your Ducasse workout.

[Smithy]

What about a thin layer of glass curtain on the screen.  I have some glass curtains...from a much earlier visit to Utah...and I find them useful for all sorts of things, like keeping flies and fruitflies at bay when leaving things out to cool, and instead of cheesecloth...not quite the same, but they do work...mind is currently a blank, but I do use them a lot.  They will let all the air in for the drying of the orange slices and not leave a pattern.  I think.  It's just a thought.

 

Really enjoying reading about your Ducasse workout.

"Glass curtain"? Google has failed me. Is this mica? Please tell more.

[Darienne]

Sorry about that.  It's just what I've always called sheer curtains.  They are fibreglass or some other fabric that you can see through sort of.  People used to hang then underneath the drapes.  They don't block out the light.  A friend was getting rid of his when we were in Utah many years ago and we had rented an empty house.  We put them up in the living room.  And then took them home to use in cooking and baking. 

 

https://www.google.com/search?q=sheers&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8#q=sheer+curtains

[SylviaLovegren]

Sorry about that.  It's just what I've always called sheer curtains.  They are fibreglass or some other fabric that you can see through sort of.  People used to hang then underneath the drapes.  They don't block out the light.  A friend was getting rid of his when we were in Utah many years ago and we had rented an empty house.  We put them up in the living room.  And then took them home to use in cooking and baking. 

 

https://www.google.com/search?q=sheers&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8#q=sheer+curtains

 

 

Yes, the sheer curtains between the heavy drapes and the actual window are called "glass curtains"  -- but you use them in cooking? ! ? ! ? Who thought up that idea?  And how do you use them?  And how do you make sure they're not polyester and they'll melt?  

[Smithy]

I have a friend who decorates her home with her scarves and has been known to make clothing from her old curtains, a la Maria and the Von Trapp children. It never occurred to me that old curtains (even the sheers) could be used in cookery also! Thanks!

[Darienne]

Again my apologies for not explaining better.  They are not part of the actual cooking or baking heat process.  I just thought that maybe David Ross could dry his orange slices on the curtains to avoid grid marks.  I just use them anywhere where cheese cloth is called for, or for drying items, etc.  Sorry.  I don't seem to be making myself very clear today.  Time to lie down and read a book.

[JoNorvelleWalker]

 

 

 

 

[David Ross]

Now we've been tempted, so please share the elements of that refreshing cocktail.

[JoNorvelleWalker]

Now we've been tempted, so please share the elements of that refreshing cocktail.

[David Ross]

Damn.  Off to the liquor store we go!

[David Ross]

The sweet pastry is in the fridge resting and tomorrow I'll craft the lemon filling for the tartelette. It's time to start planning my next citrus dish.  I'm thinking of doing a variation of a spiced orange cake.  The recipe calls for using regular oranges, but I'm thinking of using blood oranges.  Does anyone have experience baking with blood oranges?  Do you use more or less sugar in a cake that uses blood oranges?

[Thanks for the Crepes]

I'd use a little less because red oranges are usually sweeter than the orange ones.

 

I have cara cara and regular navels in the fridge now, and I have to say that after the novelty wore off, I prefer good navels.

 

I still like the bloods because I don't get them here very much, but I think this is my last purchase of the cara caras.

 

Of course, you could always balance the recipe with a little lemon juice, and keep the sugar the same.

[David Ross]

Here are the elements ready to finish the Ducasse Lemon Tartlet. From the left, fresh lime, orange and grapefruit "supremes," lemon filling, orange chips (both with and without the peel), and "rich sugar pastry" pre-baked shells.  

 

The lemon filling is spooned into the shells and baked per the recipe in a 300 oven for 17 minutes.  The photo of the finished dish in the cookbook is cropped very close, so close in fact that I couldn't get a good idea of how it should look on the plate.  I've been watching "MasterChef UK-The Professionals," lately so I referred back to some pastry platings from talented young British Chefs.

 

My version of "Tartlette au Citron et Agrumes, Chips d'Orange"-(On an American menu we would probably title this little beauty a "Lemon Bar Tart with Citrus Salad and Bittersweet Chocolate.")-

 

 

 

I think I'd make some changes to this dish next time:

-Use my shortbread crust that I use when making lemon bars.  It's fail-safe, butter, a bit of flour and plenty of powdered sugar.  You just press it into the pan or tart shell, no rolling needed.

-Use my lemon bar filling which includes lemon extract and grated lemon peel for a stronger flavor. Ducasse instructs you to serve the tartelette warm, but I prefer a lemon bar custard which has chilled and set, then served at room temperature. The Ducasse filling was a blend of lemon juice, melted butter, powdered sugar and eggs, but I found it too runny, taking over twice as long to cook to set as the recipe directed.

-I considered adding a small scoop of orange sorbet, but that would only be gilding the lilly.  Another nice touch but you really don't need it.

-This was the first time I've eaten fresh lime wedges and it was quite the tart surprise.  Next time I think I'd coat the wedges with sugar and caramelize them to add both sweetness and texture.

-I used a 4oz. bar of Ghirardelli bittersweet chocolate, (the premium baking bar), 60% cacao.  I simply melted it in a bowl over a pot of slowly simmering water.  It was the perfect bittersweet balance against the tart citrus fruit and the creamy lemon custard.  Surprising since the chocolate was the one element I added to the original Ducasse recipe and it turned out quite good.

 

The best flavor combination of the dish?  A spoon of warm, bittersweet chocolate, a fresh orange supreme and a crispy orange chip.  Devine is a fitting description.

[Shelby]

Wow.  My mouth is watering!  

[Smithy]

Wow.  My mouth is watering!

Mine too! I'll bet that chocolate was just the right note to set everything off to perfection. Thanks for the additional notes on what you'd do differently next time. It's nice to know that tried-and-true recipes (shortbread, filling) can be better than what the published pros recommend.

[David Ross]

Mine too! I'll bet that chocolate was just the right note to set everything off to perfection. Thanks for the additional notes on what you'd do differently next time. It's nice to know that tried-and-true recipes (shortbread, filling) can be better than what the published pros recommend.

I agree. My lemon bars beat this lemon tartlette hands down.

[David Ross]

In the opener to our Cook-Off, I shared a memory of my Grandmother Edna May Pink and the grapefruit I imagined she served at a Ladies Bridge Club Luncheon.  This morning as I was reaching for the food processor, I found this treasured juicer sitting quietly on the back shelf.  Then I remembered.  This is my Grandmother's citrus juicer.  I have no idea how old it is, but the streamline design certainly fits with the décor of an American kitchen of the 1930's.  How ironic it would nudge to the front of the line during our Citrus Cook-Off.

 

 

 

 

[Shelby]

In the opener to our Cook-Off, I shared a memory of my Grandmother Edna May Pink and the grapefruit I imagined she served at a Ladies Bridge Club Luncheon.  This morning as I was reaching for the food processor, I found this treasured juicer sitting quietly on the back shelf.  Then I remembered.  This is my Grandmother's citrus juicer.  I have no idea how old it is, but the streamline design certainly fits with the décor of an American kitchen of the 1930's.  How ironic it would nudge to the front of the line during our Citrus Cook-Off.

 

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IMG_0451.JPG

[David Ross]

It is pretty heavy and fear the orange that has to go through the bear down.  Lovely, fresh juice is the result and it doesn't take any electricity, just elbow grease. 

[Anna N]

No evidence of its right to be in this topic but trust me it does belong. This is a small duck breast which was slathered on the flesh side with a combination of marmalade, orange zest, honey and thyme leaves before being vacuum packed and sous vided. The citrus came through very nicely.

[David Ross]

image.jpg

No evidence of its right to be in this topic but trust me it does belong. This is a small duck breast which was slathered on the flesh side with a combination of marmalade, orange zest, honey and thyme leaves before being vacuum packed and sous vided. The citrus came through very nicely.

You know the moment I saw your dish, I thought how moist and juicy that looks.  That was before I read that you used sous vide.  Brilliant.

[jmacnaughtan]

I originally posted this in the Daily Sweets thread, but it belongs here too

 

A nice big citrus birthday bûche.

 

 

Citrus Bûche

 

Almond financier

Grapefruit confit

Mineola crémeux

Lemon mousse

White glaze

White chocolate, kumquats

[David Ross]

Thinking about a garnish for a spiced orange cake, what herbs do you think would work well with citrus?  I once had a fabulous strawberry parfait at Guy Savoy in Las Vegas.  It was garnished with tiny fraises des bois, (wild strawberries), strawberry gelee and tiny basil flowers.  The anise flavor and aroma of those little basil flowers worked perfectly against the sweet yet tart berries.  Do you think basil would work with citrus?