TV Chef Schizophrenia

[spqr]

This is quite the interesting thread. I am only familiar with the TV Emeril, and his TV food for the most part strikes me as deliberately vulgar and gross (Emerilspeak: kicked up a notch). However, Wilfrid's list suggests something different about the food you get at his main place.

I wonder if this holds true for the rest of the pantheon of TV star chefs. How does Mesa Grill and Bolo food compare to what Flay cooks on TV? I know Mario's TV cooking tends to be focused on Italian Italian cooking, with emphasis on authentic preparations, while Babbo does something else entirely. But Mario candonowrong in my book, and his food always seems to make sense

This was a post of mine on the topic of Emeril. Wilfrid suggested I start a new topic on this theme. Okay, so I did.

I realize that all TV programs, even cooking shows, play to a certain, and often shrewdly calculated, audience, and that it seems self-evident that the audience targeted by a TV star chef on his program may not be the same audience for whom he cooks at his restaurant.

I'd like to know, from all you restaurant goers out there, what your preception is of the difference, if any, between the star chef's TV food and his/her restaurant food, and what you think the underlying game plan is.

Thank you for your consideration.

[Wilfrid]

The details of a dinner at Emeril's which I've posted a couple of times now represent a tasting menu with dishes considerably more subtle and complex than the food prepared on his show. I would say that the regular entrees on the menu at his NO flagship are closer to what you see on TV, especially the signature heaped garnishes flung on top. Much heartier than the tasting menu dishes.

The Flay show I watched most frequently was Chillin' and Grillin' with the excellent Jack McRedneck (whatsisname?). I think I do see resemblances between the dishes Flay prepares on TV and what I've eaten at Mesa Grill, although the restaurant for obvious reasons doesn't offer big BBQ-ed items more suitable for party dining. I haven't seen Flay do much Spanish food at all on TV, and I guess we could debate how Spanish Bolo is anyway.

Any more? Can anyone familiar with Morimoto's cooking say if it bears any relation to his approach on Iron Chef?

[Dave the Cook]

May I suggest that we include comparisons of cookbook recipes vs. show recipes (and vs. restaurants, from those that have been there)? I suspect that not enough people have the opportunity to visit restaurants run by TV chefs (and a number of them--Sara Moulton and Alton Brown, to name two) don't even have restaurants.

A general example: though I consider myself an accomplished cook, I often find Emeril's book recipes disappointing. When I have an opportunity to compare the written version to the show version, I invariably find he has omitted ingredients or (more often) neglected to explain technique. I can't imagine what an inexperienced cook would do about some of these errors, and I am offended on their behalf. On the other hand, Mario's recipes work more often than not, although I'm still trying to figure out how to properly smoke pork jowls.

[Stone]

I went to Bolo (Bobby Flay) a while back. I recall good mussels and a pretty good steak. And lots of vodka.

[tommy]

the food at emeril's restaurants seems to make "more sense" than what you see on TV. the TV show, as we all know, is entertainment. as for his cookbooks, i've had some success with his recipes, but i wouldn't/couldn't/didn't compare them with what i've eaten at 2 of his restaurants.

TV is clearly entertainment. i don't care if your name is booby, wolfgang, or emeril. cookbooks, however, should possibly be critiqued at bit more, as they are ostensibly used by home cooks to make something decent every now and again.

now that i think about it, i made a mario batali linguini bolognese this weekend. it tasted like boiled beef. perhaps that's how they eat it in italy. lesson: add some common sense to any recipe you're following.

[Dave the Cook]

TV is clearly entertainment.  i don't care if your name is booby, wolfgang, or emeril.

I agree, and I admit to being a big fan of the Food Network. I think TFN is responsible for a generally increased interest in things foodish, which I also appreciate.

But I think people are bound to be disappointed when they can't duplicate what they see on TV, especially when it is implied that they can--these are presented as do-it-yourself shows.

[Stone]

now that i think about it, i made a mario batali linguini bolognese this weekend.  it tasted like boiled beef.  perhaps that's how they eat it in italy.  lesson:  add some common sense to any recipe you're following.

From the show, the cookbook or the website?

[Liza]

I've found Mario's recipes - on the website and in his book, which are usually identical - to be spot on: his numbers are tight. We regularly make his pasta, gnocchi, osso buco, and whole red snapper dishes. There's very few cook books that I have that have recipes as accurate as Mario's.

[FoodMan]

I've eaten at three of Emeril's restaurants and I have to say that the food and the service were exceptional. It is true though that the TV show is mainly a "show" aimed for entertainment as well as encouraging people to cook at home. Food at the restaurants was more sophisticated, well presented and tasted great.

As for the recipes from his books they are usually pretty successful and I have tried quiet a few.

I also tried Mario's recipes both from his books and from the show with no disappointement (just be carefull with how much acid he adds i:e vinegar or lemon juice. IMHO he does add a little too much and I usually reduce it). Whenever I do visit NY, eating at Babbo will be a priority.

FM

[Dana]

We ate at Emeril's once about 4 years ago, and were not impressed with the food, although the terrific service made the evening memorable. I had chicken, which was very dry, husband had steak or prime rib, I can't remember which. His was better than mine, but nothing we had was just knock-your-socks-off great. The recipes I've made of his did not turn out either.(except for the worchestershire sauce, which was terrific.) Dumplings fell apart with the amount of flour called for. I knew to add more, and that helped, but a beginning cook might not. I also made a soup, I think from the TV show, which was not to great either. I, too, feel that people may think they will be able to easily duplicate what they've seen, and be disappointed.

Maybe I just picked bad dishes, but I'll be leary of making something of his again.

Have eaten at Lydia's, K-Pauls, and Coyote Cafe, although none of these chefs are on TVFN, I think all have hosted PBS shows (not sure about Mark Miller). Dining experience in each was superb, and highly recommend each.

[torakris]

I don't get the Food Network and rarely eat at "famous chef" restaurants, but I do own a lot of cookbooks and use them frequently. One chef cookbook I really like is Roy Yamaguchi's Feasts from Hawaii. my husband and I used to eat at his restaurant quite a bit when we were living on Maui and have also been to his restaurants here in Tokyo quite a few times. His recipes are right on the spot, and although time consuming, taste incredibly like the stuff in his restaurant. I keep his Thai peanut sauce in the refrigerator at all times and use it on practically everything. His cesear salad dressing is the best I have ever tasten.

As for FoodTV people, way back when I was in college I used to stay awake until 11:00 (I am usually out long before then) just to watch Taste with David Rosengarten. I picked up his book also titled Taste last summer and have only made 2 things his Thai spring rolls which were very good and his grilled bruschetta, he gives a variety of toppings but his red pepper and anchovy one is to die for!

One resaturant book that I thought was awful was the Moosewood Low-fat or something like that, I no longer have it. Some of the stuff wasn't even edible! Usually even if the food isn't very good I will eat it because I don't want to waste it and make something else, but there were something from that book that hit the trash before the table.

I know he gets ragged a lot here, but I really like Jamie Oliver. I have yet to see his show, but his books produce great tasting food with very litttle effort. I just got his 3rd and 4th books yesterday and have already made up my shopping list for this week. The first thing on the menu? a hazelnut torte!

[Andy Lynes]

I've found Mario's recipes - on the website and in his book, which are usually identical - to be spot on: his numbers are tight. We regularly make his pasta, gnocchi, osso buco, and whole red snapper dishes. There's very few cook books that I have that have recipes as accurate as Mario's.

I love my Babbo cookbook, it's a thing of beauty. We're having friends over for dinner on Saturday and I'm probably going to do the whole menu from it. I only recently bought it, do you have any favourite recipes you could recommend?

[tommy]

now that i think about it, i made a mario batali linguini bolognese this weekend.  it tasted like boiled beef.  perhaps that's how they eat it in italy.  lesson:  add some common sense to any recipe you're following.

From the show, the cookbook or the website?

from the newest Gourmet, or F&W, or whatever one his mug plastered on.

[=Mark]

I started going to Mesa Grill before there was a TVFood Network, and was really bowled over by Flay's use of spices and chiles. His place seems the least affected by his star status. Sure he seems arrogant and egotistical, but is this really unexpected in the upper realms of chefdom?

Was pretty impressed by NOLA, Emerils more casual place in New Orleans, but felt the Emerils in Las Vegas was overpriced for what is supposed to be "peasant" food ($24 for a couple pork chops!?)

Felt that Lidias place "Felidia" was VERY good, got to talk to her a bit, but her PBS show is one of the more understated shows on TV. Does not come across as a "Star" vehicle.

[Jinmyo]

I have the Babbo book. While I don't use recipes, I like to read them. It's good to know that they actually work.

tokaris, that Moosewood stuff is crud. I've eaten there. Spotty, unhealthy crowd. Fresh herbs. Big deal.

[rslux]

I ate at Commander's Palace back when Emeril was running things there & loved it but haven't eaten at Emeril's own places. Ate at Mesa Grill once -- was not all that impressed. Haven't been to Babbo but my parents, whose food taste I trust, were there last month and enjoyed it (and yes, Mario really does wear the orange clogs IRL).

I recently got Mario's "Simple Italian Food" cookbook & am enjoying it. We're on a budget, so I don't buy cookbooks frequently. I'm not sure what will be next on the list.

And props to Jamie Oliver. I know he's easy to make fun of, but I've printed out & used several of his recipes off the FoodTV.com website and they're quite good.

[Andy Lynes]

Jamie Oliver : Quite Good.......hmmmm.

Yep, I can live with that.

[Shiva]

now that i think about it, i made a mario batali linguini bolognese this weekend.  it tasted like boiled beef.  perhaps that's how they eat it in italy.  lesson:  add some common sense to any recipe you're following.

From the show, the cookbook or the website?

from the newest Gourmet, or F&W, or whatever one his mug plastered on.

Tommy, this is Mario's hardcore Bolognese recipe. How does it compare to the one in the mag?

I can personally vouch for this one. It's fabulous.

[Jinmyo]

Jamie Oliver : Quite Good.......hmmmm.

Yep, I can live with that.

Quite.

[spqr]

this is Mario's hardcore Bolognese recipe.  How does it compare to the one in the mag?

I can personally vouch for this one.  It's fabulous.

I haven't seen the one in "the mag" yet, but this recipe is different from the recipe that Mario cooked in that episode of Mario Eats Italy. In the TV show, he and that buffoon Rooney are in Bologna, and they go to city hall and take a Polaroid of the "official" recipe for Bolognese sauce. Then they go back to some local's kitchen and make it. THAT recipe used concentrato di pomodoro (tomato paste) and not the canned whole tomatoes he specifies in the website recipe. Does it make a difference? I've made Mario's recipe both ways and I like the tomato paste version better.

[FoodMan]

I've found Mario's recipes - on the website and in his book, which are usually identical - to be spot on: his numbers are tight. We regularly make his pasta, gnocchi, osso buco, and whole red snapper dishes. There's very few cook books that I have that have recipes as accurate as Mario's.

I love my Babbo cookbook, it's a thing of beauty. We're having friends over for dinner on Saturday and I'm probably going to do the whole menu from it. I only recently bought it, do you have any favourite recipes you could recommend?

I love the babbo cookbook also and would recommend:

papardelle with bolognese sauce-- the best I've had (he uses tomato paste in this one, also good in lasagna)

black pepper taglaitelle with parsnips and pancetta

gnochi with oxtail ragu

Big Eye tuna

monkfish piccatta

polenta shortbread cookies

walnut shrotbread cookies

In addition to great recipes this book is just damn great looking with awsome mouth watering pics and interesting commentaries.

FM

[maggiethecat]

You guys can affrd to eat out more than we can! However, not having cooked from his books, and watching only a couple of his shows, Rick Bayless's Frontera Grill is the real thing. The duck breast with mole almost made me cry. And the Margaritas-hand shaken in front of the diner--were absolutely the best I've ever had. And I know these things!

[tommy]

Tommy, this is Mario's hardcore Bolognese recipe.  How does it compare to the one in the mag?

I can personally vouch for this one.  It's fabulous.

this one has butter, more meat, less milk, brodo, uses whole coanned instead of 6 oz of paste, and doesn't include a cup of water as the one in gourmet does.

it was flavorless.

[vogelap]

Any more?  Can anyone familiar with Morimoto's cooking say if it bears any relation to his approach on Iron Chef?

Morimoto's food was amazing. Very restrained and controlled, and exceptionally fresh and well-prepared. Wendy and I got engaged at restaurant Morimoto in June 2002. Read about it in a four-part series starting here. The discussion of the meal at the restaurant is in part 4, along with the menu.

[vogelap]

TV is clearly entertainment.  i don't care if your name is booby.

Now THAT is TV I'd watch!