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Finally got out to Saffron yesterday; on a grey, cool middle-of-a-holiday weekend, this place was hopping--at 1pm and later! First of all, it's a truly lovely space with aforementioned tiles, Indian accents, and it was SPOTLESS, right down to the bathrooms. All of that is a welcome sign when entering any restaurant. The only quick concern that one friend had was that she was underdressed (in shorts); I told her I wasn't worried--we were still on Rt. 10, and it was the middle of the day. I turned out to be right--people came in wearing everything from jeans to what I'd call business casual to saris. When the two (of 4 1/2 of us) first arrived, there were only 4-5 tables occupied. This was just after 1pm. By the time we left around 2:15, the place was packed. Nobody had to wait for a table, but there was a constant stream coming through the door! I also noted (a good sign as far as I'm concerned) that we were the only non-Indian or non-Asian group in the room. Although I knew that I'd have the buffet, I wanted to look at a menu, but was surprised that I had to ask if one was available. Aesthetically, it's very attractive, and I'd say that there is a wide range of dishes based on my experience eating Indian food. Prices went from $4 for appetizers (i.e. samosas) to $23 for a few of the entrees. That to me seemed a tad high, but there was plenty priced in between those numbers. At $9.95pp, though, there was no doubt of what I was having. We were starving and hit the buffet because our other friends were a solid half hour behind us. The buffet is huge, and even included two desserts (Kheer + ???), although I never got to try either of them b/c I was so full. There is a full range of both vegetarian and meat dishes; we started with a cucumber/green pepper/red onion salad in a dressing that was likely made with yogurt, but it was very light, and very refreshing. Not raita--something slightly different. Then there were (room temp) fried veg fritters with another yogurt-looking sauce. Next were (warm) spongy-like pieces of small bread (about 3" round, cut in half) with a variety of sauces available, including the standard mint chutney and tamarind sauce. The surprise there was what I would call a vegetable soup, and after asking, I was told that yes, it was another 'sauce' for the spongy breads. I put some in a small dish and took it back to the table; more on that in a moment. Continuing down the line, there was wonderful Chole (chick peas) on a large flat wok-like server--can't remember what that's called. There were large pieces of a chick-pea flour bread surrounding the chole--also tasty. Then there were easily 8 more chafing dishes of everything from lamb to chicken tikka masala to tandoori chicken to peas pulao (peas in rice) and yellow dal (lentils). There was also a saag dish that I hadn't seen before--basically a creamed spinach with corn in it. We sat down to eat, and a basket of naan (unexpected, 'tho I had commented to my friend that I was surprised there wasn't any on the buffet) arrived very quickly. Our water glasses were refilled constantly throughout the meal. And when I asked if the veg 'soup' was supposed to be for the spongy bread, one of the waiters immediately ran to get me a spoon, and was mixing them together for me. For a brief moment, I thought he might actually feed it to me! Our other friends arrived with their 8 month old (who is unbelievably great in restaurants), and the staff jumped to get them up to speed. Friend's hubby is a very picky eater (but we love him anyway), and he ordered Saffron Tikka off the menu. I thought it was the restaurant's version of Chicken Tikka Masala, and told him they had it on the buffet, but since he's weird about what he'll eat, just let him do his thing. It turned out to be a sizzling platter of tandoori chicken cooked with (I'm assuming because of the color) saffron and onions and peppers along with it. My comment? "Look! Indian fajitas!" It came with rice. My other friend was stubborn and didn't listen to me when I told her to check out the buffet before ordering from the menu. She ordered yellow dal. Helllloooo? It's on the buffet!! For the same price (or darn close) she could have sampled all of the other veg dishes as well. Oh, well--her $$. She loved the dal. I finished my lunch with a terrific cup of masala chai. Overall, I liked everything I tried (almost all of the dishes), but my favorites were the chole and the dal. Without exception, ingredients were fresh, presentation was nice, and everything was constantly being replenished on the buffet table. My only real complaint is that there isn't enough spice in the buffet items!! One of the things I love about Indian food is the 'kick', esp because it's one of the few that I can tolerate while still enjoying the food. The veg 'soup' with the spongy bread had kick. The dal had some kick. Everything else was fairly mild, though very tasty. I'm wondering (as have others on this thread) if they're either toning down the spice to please the masses or, as we speculated, if the owners/chefs are from a part of India where they just don't cook with as much of it. Does anyone here know? In terms of service, the only true complaint I have is that the waiter who took my friend's dal order didn't say to her "Do you know that it is the same dish that is on the buffet?" When the dish was brought to the table, the server said it at that point, which made her feel even dumber than she already did (she had already seen it on my plate). They would have won points with me for saying something ahead of time. Other than that, they could not have been nicer, including talking to/playing with my friends' daughter, who sat in her high chair cooing at everyone around us. If anything, they hovered even a little too much. As I came back from my 2nd trip to the buffet, I had to do a little dance maneuver to get around one of the waiters who was sort of parked next to our table! The owner came by twice, once while we were eating to ask how everything was, and again to bring the check--which he promptly gave to the 8 month old. We all agreed that we will be back any time we're in the area. For $9.95 (maybe less during the week, from what I've read), you can't beat the deal!! EDIT: Rachel, is there any way to change the subtitle of this thread to mention the name of the restaurant? I had to do some digging to find it! Thanks.

Had a nice browse through Chapters on the weekend. I took a rest in one of their chairs with Grace Youngs's Breath of the Wok. I checked out the section on seasoning a new wok. I may have to stop using my wok for steaming, just so I can achieve that beautiful patina in one of the pictures! I tried to find B. Tropp's Modern Art on Ebay, nothing . . . But I did win the bid for Grace Young's Wisdom for $7.70 US. Looked in good shape "like new". Just what I needed; another Chinese cookbook! Went to a friend's daughter's wedding last night. We gave them a carbon steel wok, a rice cooker and a coiled binder book " 365 Ways to Wok". It had more than just Chinese recipes. It had been sitting on my shelf, never used, and I thought it would show them that there's more than one use for a wok. The bride's father was our karate sensei. She is now a second degree black belt. I hope her husband never complains about her cooking!

Chopping vegetables? with bontis, and on your first trip to India? Now that must have been quite an experience! That and the heat+ humidity, as i surmise by the presence of mangoes that you were there, what, July-August? Please do write about your phalar experience in detail in the poha thread. Were your parents ever at the famous Panihati festival in Haora, which had been initiated by Srimanmahaprabhu, and the very combination of mango. Banana, poha gur and yogurt you describe is de rigeur? That, and the fun of Harir Loot, where confections are thrown on the ground in joyous merriment, and everyone rushes to pick them up amidst much laughter. Friends on this forum probably suspect me of being a crazy Bengali making up outrageous claims for weirdo Bengali foods! You are my witness! By the way, did you ever reconcile yourself to the fried neem leaves and Neem Begoon or Eggplant with neem leaves? My very favorite, but certainly an acquired taste. Also, have you ever worked with Kurma? Too many questions, but am so excited to find someone who has visited Mayapur. I had written Monicaji, that the huge katahas/woks of Mayapur bubbling away with khichri and feeding thousands definitely are one of the wonders of traditional Indian kitchens. Would you have any photographs?

Annabel Jackson, Taste of Macau: Portuguese Cuisine on the China Coast Grace Young, The Breath of a Wok: Unlocking the Spirit of Wok Cooking Through Recipes and Lore I have had "Macau" since last spring, "Wok" for about two weeks. Although the subjects of these books are entirely different, they both are ultimately about "real people" dealing with food traditions in changing times. Each book combines stories about the people involved with a few well-chosen recipes. Most of the recipes are from the people in the book, edited by the author. So far, I have done eight recipes from "Macau" and three from "Wok." These have all been well written, fairly easy, and have provided good eating. The special dimension is the insights into the lives of the contemporary people who have contributed family favorites. Of course, you will also learn about Macau and woks. The combination of recipes and essays makes each book a "must have" for an arm-chair traveller like me. BB

When this discussion was new, I asked a local merchant to recommend a wine to go with Chinese food. Among other things, I got a bottle of Bonny Doon "Pacific Rim Dry Riesling." Over the weekend I had a chance to try this with a simple Chinese meal. The dishes were slightly "unbalanced" - a stir-fry and two steamed dishes, but there was a good variety of flavors to taste with the wine. These recipes are all from Grace Young's new Book "Breath of a Wok:" Stir-fried Corn and Green Beans Silken Tofu Steamed with XO Sauce Chicken Legs Steamed with Fermented Tofu It is well known that a Riesling goes with spicy food, but Chinese cuisine has many complex flavors. In this case there is the "fishyness" of XO, and the "earthyness" of the fermented tofu. The wine was good with the meal, mostly by not being too challenging. In fact, though, as carswell has mentioned no wine will go equally well with a varied spread of Chinese dishes. The XO seemed to "want" something crisper. I am still pondering the chicken dish. I love fermented tofu, and the sauce here is wonderful and deep - I have to experiment. A good South American red might work, but balance would be tricky. I finished the meal with an adaptation of Monica Bhide's kulfi - substituted minced crystallized ginger for cardamom, and garnished with orange blossom water. I sipped the last of the wine with this. Somehow, the wine seemed to "fight" with the orange blossom after-taste, but mostly it went well with the whole meal. BB

I was fortunate to snare a reservation for a one-night-only U.S. appearance of Chen Kenichi at Susanna Foo on Sunday night. The event was sponsored by the family-owned firm General Ecology, Inc. of Exton, PA, maker of the (IMO) somewhat unfortunately named Seagull IV Water Purifiers. The back story is that while on a business trip to Japan a number of years ago, the owner of the firm was introduced to "Doc" Hattori, who installed the purifiers in the Nutrition College. He was so impressed that Hattori arranged for the purifiers to be used in Kitchen Stadium. Chen now uses them in all his restaurants, as does Morimoto at his restaurant here in town and now Susanna Foo. The filter is installed at the source for the restauarant, so all water is purified: for tap, ice, cooking, and washing. The water at dinner seemed fine to me. On Monday, GE had planned a publicity stunt for the local Fox affiliate, where water from the Schuykill would be poured into the filter, then pumped through into a glass and consumed on the spot. To promote its product, apparently, GE brought Chen over for this sole dinner in the states. Foo told me that she'd never met Chen before this event, so its puzzling why and how this all came about. There were large TV screens throughout the restaurant, where diners could watch Chen at the wok and courses being plated. There were a couple of cheesy interviews in the kitchen, but Chen was his usual high-energy, goofy self. One question prior to service of the shark's fin soup: Q: "Oh, it's a delicacy? Do you make this very often?" Chen [via translator]: "When I do, I always hum {theme from "Jaws"}." On to the food. We were seated upstairs for the 6:00 seating; the main floor held the 7:00 seating. So with 150+ dinners coming out in that time frame, I guess I shouldn't have expected Iron Chef-level food. But I did, and I was a bit disappointed. First course was Szechwan Bon-Bon Chicken Salad with Organic Micro Greens. Chen explained that "bon bon" reflected the sound made when hammering "hard" chicken. The dressing, a spicy sauce based on roasted sesame, was underneath the greens, so we were advised to mix as we ate. A quite nice starter. Next came Braised Shark's Fin Soup with Essence of Crab Roe. The soup was very delicate and silky. The crab flavor was very subtle. A good version. Then Tiger Prawns with Shrimp Sauce and Fall Vegetables. Things started to decline with this dish. While the prawns were delicious -- sweet and tender, a winner -- the presentation was sorely lacking. "Fall vegetables" were two mini broccoli and two mini cauliflower florets -- rather uninspired. And the saucing was pretty amateurish, though tasty. I was really looking forward to the Stuffed Bamboo Pith with Seafood Sauce. The stuffing was shrimp mousse. The broth was composed of ham and chicken stock with peppers and (I think) soy bean. The bamboo was very limp (perhaps this is normal -- it was the first time I had had this), but the overall dish was exceedingly bland. Major disappointment. Next up was Kung Pao Beef with Green Pepper and Szechwan Chili. This wasn't as spicy as I expected. However, the dish also contained lemon pepper. Our server said to try "just one". I misunderstood and ate the entire mini, charred "branch", rather than just one of the berries on it. My God! I got an overwhelming rush of super-intense lemon -- not spicy but stupefyingly lemon-y. Salivation kicked in and my mouth was sort of numbed for a few minutes, not unlike the effect a certain party powder once (for me) had. As the sensation cleared, the rest of the dish was quite good. The beef was very tender and nicely accented by my lingeringly lemonated palate. Finally, an Iron Chefish dish: Szechwan Ma-Po Tofu with Minced Pork, Spicy Chili Sauce and Steamed Rice. Chen said he decided to make this dish, one of his favorites, sort of at the last minute. I believe he brought the chilis with him, and he warned that it would be spicy. It was. The creamy tofu was great and attenuated the heat of the chilis. The rice on the side was a bit odd. Some diners scooped theirs into the bowl to cut the intensity of the dish. Others tried to push the rice individually onto the spoon. All in all though, a wonderful dish. Last up: Lemon Mascarpone Cheesecake with Fuji Persimmons. Nice finish. Not at all sweet. The pomegranite seeds were a nice touch. Finally, Chen was animated the whole evening running back and forth through the dining rooms, stopping for photos and autographs. Ms. Foo and the sponsors also went table to table. The food and atmosphere made for a very entertaining evening.

After ordering Szechuan Green Beans at a local restaurant a number of years back, I vowed that I'd attempt to reproduce the recipe at home or else go bankrupt from ordering it takeout. Throw sesame seeds, sliced chilies and a remarkably large amount of finely minced garlic into a hot wok for browning. I use canola or vegetable oil for frying with a splash or two of sesame oil for taste. Add previously blanched green beans and toss with a liberal amount of salt. Eat piping hot to capitalize on the fire from the chilies!

Get an earthenware pot with an opening of the same diameter, fill it with hot coals, then stick the reverse wok on top, and then you would just stick it on the table.... with some blocks of wood under it. If you put it on the stove only one person could use it and that's no fun.

I have the same problem with my electric coils. It didn't bother me until I actually wanted to do some serious cooking. I hate electric! My current plan is to get connected to the gas line the runs past the house and buy me a real stove!! It is next to impossible to use the wok or do a decent saute with electric. The wacky coils and uneven surface drive me crazy. I'll try changing the level of the unit to compensate for the unwieldy coils - but won't that create a problem for my oven??

Rent them if you can! Rent them! You can also rent the dishes, cutlery, and stemware and you don't have to clean them. Just scrape em off and place them in the boxes they came in. You will end up buying more than one chafer, and you have the problem with storage in the off season. I made a last minute chafer with a heavy ceramic plattersitting on a wok with water, the wok sitting on a the wok ring, and small tea candles on spare ceramic tiles underneath. Works great if you just need one meat platter. Disposable is just plain wrong, we can't keep chucking stuff into land fills.

Here is the small copper wok with helper handle I have, finally found a pic. here I use this a lot for quick cooking, frying. It is the "tabletop" line and not as heavy as the professional line but is certainly adequate for my needs. The balance is good and it is easy to handle for someone with arthritic hands.

I couldn't find a picture of it right away, however if you take a look at this wok/fry pan by All Clad you can see the type of pan I have that is made by Mauviel - copper lined with SS. Mine has a rounder bottom and I use it on a wok ring. Had I seen this one prior to spending the money for the copper, I would probably had gotten this one. I do have a large wok but sometimes I want to stir fry or fry something that doesn't need to the space of the big wok. I think this is a pretty good buy.

That was a great thread and the recipe looks fine to me. The amount of whole wheat flour vs. white really is a judgment call--you could go all the way to 100% whole wheat if you want to. I've made similar bread on the back of the wok but didn't know it was called Saj. The key to thinness is to let the dough relax between stretch outs, treating it almost like making pita bread or focaccia col formaggio dough, or even strudel (though there is no yeast in those). Thanks for sharing the thread--I can see why so many people got jazzed about it.

But that aside, my best wacky food is stir-fried grasshoppers from my own yard. During the drought season at the ancestral home in Bastrop County, you can't step on a spot of grass without a cloud of grasshoppers jumping every which a way. They're so easy to catch that you can't use them all for bait. All you have to do is break off the jumpers on the hind legs and toss them in a hot wok with a splash of oil. The flavor is so concentrated you'd think they have fish sauce for blood.

A splash of nam pla hitting a smoking wok full of dried Arbols in sesame oil. Any other ingredients are just dilution.

Speaking of upside down woks, I think Sonia Uvezian in her book mentions that you can use it as a Saj replacement on the stove top and provides a recipe for "mountain bread"...I do have an extra wok. Maybe I'll give it a try soon. Elie

take a wok and turn it around! same thing ;-) vue

I edited the title of the thread to be more descriptive of the subject matter Also do NOT store the Saj (or Wok for that matter) outside, and keep it dry. This discussion is getting really interesting. Smithy, I am not sure if a pan would work either but it is worth a shot. Just keep in mind that the pan/Saj has to get VERY hot so as to blister and cook the bread very fast. also the bread needs to be really thin, so you would not be able to get the same size "loaves" that you would get when using a Saj or a Wok. Man am I looking forward to trying this tonight, hopefully I will post some pics as well with my crappy camera. Michelle, please do your best to post pics from the festival that would be awsome. Elie

Firstly, Smithy: You need a concave pan. It is critical. An ordinary wok, as Foodman suggested, that is 18 inches in diameter or more can be used. I would suggest getting a wok with two metal handles. Secondly, in response to vue_de_cuisine: You need to season the Saj as you would a cast iron pan (Gusseisenpfanne). Heat the pan on high until hot, rub ordinary cooking oil on the concave side so that the pan has a very light coating all over. Carry on heating until the oil just begins smoke, remove from the fire and cool. Wipe it clean with a paper towel. I know this may sound disgusting, but you will have to trust me on this one, do not wash it and do not use the underside for cooking. Just wipe it clean with a paper towel after each use. Good luck. I will try and take some pictures next week of a very sweet Druze woman making Pitot Druzit. Take care, Michelle

That sounds terrific. Do you suppose a regular small skillet, or a crepe pan, would work instead of the upside-down wok? Or is the curved bottom critical?

Whenever I'm in Mexico I hunt down this snack made from popped amaranth seeds and I assume either honey or piloncillo water. I have a recipe in one of my cookbooks but I have a lot of trouble popping the amaranth. I love the taste, texture and the fact that it's loaded with protein. I have a few pounds of unpopped amaranth seeds and wonder if anyone has made this at home? Any techniques? I'm going to try a wok today and see how that goes.

Oh boy this sounds fantastic...I wish I could be there to have some of that. Last time I had some was this past May in Lebanon. Congrats and best wishes on your wedding. Maybe I can have the next best thing by making it at home. So I am determined to try the upside down Wok thing (Since I do have an old wok that I only use to steam or smoke stuff), prompted by this thread. I will give it a try using this recipe, scaled down and adapted from a Lebanese Arabic cookbook: 1 Kg flour (half white, half wheat) 2 tsp salt 1/2 tsp Instant yeast Enough water to make dough, maybe a cup I also --Swisskaese also beat me to this-- have some fresh homemade yogurt that is draining to make Labneh and I always have Zaatar at hand. When the breads are done I will hopefully enjoy them with a nice spread of Labneh, Zaatar and olives. I will report on how it worked out later tonight or this weekend. Elie

Saveur, October 2004 (10th Anniversary Issue; a shout-out to Penelope Gil on the cover) First: Colman Andrews looks back at the magazine’s first issue, 10 years ago. Fare: Kitchen Radio: Legends like Lou "The Glue" Marcelli are on a 13-part NPR series on Morning Edition beginning October 1. By Peggy Knickerbocker A Cuppa Kava: Eric Goodman participates in a Fijian kava ceremony, using the traditional herbal sedative. The Grape Escape: The new movie Sideways, starring Paul Giamatti, is set in Santa Barbara wine country. By Margo True Bulldog Party: El Bulli began as a beach stand near the French border, with Czech-Swiss owners. By George Semler Recipe: Magret de Pato Perfumado al Brandy con Trufas y Setas (duck breast in brandy sauce with truffles and mushrooms) Texas Tartare: The town of Castroville, 25 miles west of San Antonia, has Alsatian roots with a Texan accent: the local steak tartare has chopped onions, american cheese and lemon juice, and is served on saltines. By Paula Disbrowe Recipe: Castroville Parisa Béchamel U. Turns 20: Two decades of NYC's French Culinary Institute. By Stephanie Ogozalek On the Side: high-end ballpark food, though not yet at Yankee Stadium yet (so terribly true), where they're sticking with Cracker Jack—not Crunch 'n Munch; Chefcards are like baseball cards, but chefs are the "players"; Jay-Z has a dedicated chicken-wing chef; Atkins dieter pushes limits of all-you-can-eat buffet Agenda: Kaikoura Seafest in NZ, dedicated to crustaceans; Erddig apple festival in Wales; Afamia grape fest in Cyprus; Oct. 8 is the anniversary of the Domino sugar trademark (1901); Oct. 12 is Luciano Pavarotti's birthday (1935); West Virginia black walnut fest; Kansas and national cornhusking contests One Good Bottle: El Chaparral de Vega Sindoa Old Vines Grenache 2002 ($11): "a low-key charmer…very food-friendly." Book Review: The Breath of a Wok: Unlocking the Secrets of Chinese Wok Cooking Through Recipes and Lore, by Grace Young and Alan Richardson. Madhur Jaffrey reviews, with general praise (and tips from book such as seasoning your wok by frying flat Chinese chives), but wonders if home stoves are powerful enough to develop true "wok hay." {I have a tip: "unscrew the nipple" (scroll down)} Recipe: Lee Wan Ching's sizzling pepper and salt shrimp Drink: The New South The Mâconnais, in southern Burgundy, produces many mediocre wines—and increasing quantities of very good ones. By Patrick Matthews Tasting notes: From Verget Macon-Villages 2003 ($15; "fresh and clean…ample chardonnay") to Chateau-Fuissé Vieilles Vignes Pouilly-Fuissé 2002 ($50; "creamy, smooth and fruity") Essay: Authenticity: It's the Real Thing Colman Andrews says the only way to get close to "authentic" cooking is to know the people behind the tradition. Cellar: Edgy and Intense Mourvèdre yields distinctive wines from Bandol to the Sierras to McLaren Vale. By John Winthrop Haeger Tasting notes: 12 mourvèdres and mourvèdre blends, from Joseph Swan Russian River Valley Mourvèdre ($16; "camphor and wet earth" to Ridge California Pato Vineyard Mataro 2002 ($N/A; "huge ultra-ripe nose of berry preserves") Source: Canadian Mennonite farmers make smoky summer sausage. By Shane Mitchell Classic: Chilaquiles (stale corn tortillas doused in spicy tomato sauce) are a great poor man's dish. By Carolynn Carreño Recipe: Chilaquiles Fragrant Feasts of Lucknow: Two centuries ago, the rulers of this refined North Indian city created an aromatic, extravagant cuisine that lives on today. By Margo True Recipes: Kundan Khaliya (kid goat curry wrapped in gold) Murgh Zafrani (saffron chicken) Dhungare Baigan (smoked eggplant with yogurt and onion) Parcha Pulao (kid goat pilaf cooked in spiced meat stock) Galawat Kebabs ("melt-in-the-mouth" kid goat kebabs) Dabi Arvi ka Salan (taro in onion sauce) Sidebar: Recipe Detectives: local food writers had trouble getting recipes from secretive Lucknow cooks, but now have a book to show for their work: Dastarkhwan-e-Awadh: The Cuisine of Awadh Sidebar: Garnishes That Glitter: how to work with gold and silver leaf Guide: hotels, restos, and sights in Lucknow Singing for Our Supper: When two musicians from Texas go on tour in Europe, good food isn't an afterthought—it's a daily obsession. Country food in Switzerland, France, Spain and Italy, by Joe Gracey Recipes: Cervéla (Hansreudi's family salad) Salsiccia Nostrana alla Griglia con Fagioli all-Uccelletto (grilled sausage with white beans) Almejas con Jamón (steamed clams with ham in white wine) {mmm—from Cal Pep in Barcelona} Espuma de Limón (lemon foam; also boosted from Cal Pep) Guide: hotels and great road food in Europe A Saveur Roundtable: Ten years of cooking and eating in America, 1994–2004: To celebrate our first decade of publication, we invited key food figures from around the country to sit down with us for lunch (we ate both carbs and protein) and explore a menu of meaty topics. By Colman Andrews The participants: Robert Schueller, Deborah Madison, Zarela Martínez, Mario Batali, Dorothy Kalins, Darrell Corti, Marion Nestle, Rich Melman, Chuck Williams, Mimi Sheraton and Colman Andrews {No Atkins discussion, despite the ref in the dek. The confab seems heavily edited—very broad comments on an equally broad range of topics. Also, there's a very funny picture of Andrews looking very fierce at the head of the table. Recipes are all from Barbuto, where the lunch took place.} Recipes: Crostini di Baccalà (salt cod cake on grilled toast) Insalata di Calamari Gremola & Aioli (salad of squid, wild chicory and chickpeas with lemon-garlic sauce) Maccheroni con Funghi Selvaticci (tube-shaped pasta with wild mushrooms) Manzo ai Ferri (grilled skirt steak with grilled chiles) Cavolfiore (roasted cauliflower with black olives and bread crumbs) Finocchio e Pecorino (shaved fennel with pecorino) Torta al Limone (almond-lemon cake) Sidebar: Ten Years of Food and America: a timeline ranging from the opening of the French Laundry to the death of Julia Child Sidebar: Puck the Pioneer: Short interview with Wolfgang Puck Tailgating at Ole Miss: If football can be considered a religion in these parts, then pregame picnics at the Grove are its church suppers – for up to 60,000 people. By Carolyn Carreño Recipes: Caramel cake Cream cheese dip with chutney Black-eyed pea corn bread Hot onion soufflé Grilled pork tenderloin with Jezebel sauce Breakfast casserole Only the Very Best Meat Tafelspitz isn't just a variety of boiled beef; it's one of the treasures of Viennese gastronomy—indeed, of Viennese culture. By Ann McCarthy Recipe: Tafelspitz Sidebar: Boiled Beef Matters: The importance of the cut of meat, as seen in an excerpt from Joseph Wechsberg's story "Tafelspitz for the Hofrat." In the Saveur Kitchen: A staffer's variation on the Ole Miss breakfast casserole; add smoky flavor to Lucknow dishes with live coals set in onion "cups," then placed in the dish and drizzled with ghee—cover and let smoke; how usli ghee differs from French clarified butter; soup of tafelspitz broth over shredded crepes is a traditional Viennese starter Recipes: Sue Raye's breakfast casserole {different from the Ole Miss recipe in that it uses cream of mushroom soup!} Usli Ghee (Indian clarified butter) Frittatensuppe (shredded crepes in beef broth) Kitchen: Chef Andrew Abruzzese in Bucks County, Pa., uses two big islands, a walk-in refrigerator, and slate flooring just in front of the stove, fridge and walk-in. In the Saveur Library: Moghul Cooking: India's Courtly Cuisine, by Joyce Westrip (Serif, 1997): sumptuous, easy-to-follow recipes Moment: The backs of itinerant grape pickers dot a field in Champagne, 1998

Actually, the more I think about it, the Hong Kong style pan fried noodles version of chow mein and the American Chinese version are both crunchy noodles with a topping. I can't remember much specifics about the noodles in the American Chinese version, but it is probably gloppy (is that a word?). I want to say that the noodles used would be the same as in lo mein, but I'm not sure. The Hong Kong pan fried noodles that I would be familiar with would be a flat layer of very thin egg noodles, pan fried in a wok until some of the noodles, ie those closest to the bottom center of the wok are slightly black. The noodles are then placed on the plate. Then bean sprouts, the meat/seafood of choice, etc. would be stir fried together and then placed on top of the noodles before being served.

Vietnamese-ish Lime Chicken with Bamboo Shoots and Savoy Cabbage Make the caramel and keep it on hand to add a luscious depth to many vietnamese dishes, such as long simmered caramel pork. This makes about half a cup of caramel. To make the caramel: In a heavy bottomed pan heat 1/2 cup sugar over a medium even heat until the sugar melts and turns golden. While the sugar is melting, stir it every so often so it goldens evenly. And also while it is cooking, bring about half a cup of water to the boil. it will evaporate a bit; you will use 1/3 cup of it. When the sugar is melted and golden, working quickly, take it off the heat and add the 1/3 cup of boiling water slowly. it will sputter and be scarey, so stay out of the way. stir it if you can with a wooden spoon so that the sugar caramel dissolves. sometimes i have chunks of a sugary substance ie not all of it is dissolved; then i return it to the stove and a medium heat for a few moments, cover and leave to dissolve hopefully. you want the liquid to get lightly browned, well kind of golden brown, but if it goes just that little bit too far it becomes bitter. Now for the rest of the dish: To serve 2 people, double it if you want to serve 4 4 chicken thighs, bones removed but skin attached 2 stalks lemongrass, peeled of its hard outsides and thinly sliced 2 tablespoons above caramel About 1/2 teaspoon chinese or vietnamese 5 spice, plus a little extra, as desired when you are stir frying juice of 1 lime, and save the rinds to pop into the marinade too, for their scent 1 tablespoon sugar 2 cloves garlic, chopped or sliced about 1 tablespoon chopped fresh ginger 2 or more, to taste, tablespoons light soy sauce (or half soy sauce and half fish sauce), or to taste 1 tablespoon vegetable oil 1 carrot, diced 1/2 onion, diced 1/2 smallish to medium sized savoy (curly leafed) cabbage, diced About 3 tablespoons chicken broth, or as desired Cut the boned chicken thighs into 1 inch sliced strips and then each strip into several pieces so that you have chunks with skin attached. it might be easiest if they are partially frozen. combine the chicken with the lemongrass, caramel, five spice, lime juice, lime shells, sugar, half the garlic, half the ginger, about half the soy sauce/fish sauce, and set it aside, covered, to marinate for several hours in the refrigerator. when ready to prepare, remove chicken from refrigerator. heat wok or heavy large nonstickish (such as calphalon) frying pan, and add the vegetable oil; stir fry the carrot and onion with the reserved garlic and ginger, then remove to a pan, and add the cabbage and stir fry for a few minutes to wilt; add the chicken broth and cook together for a minute or two longer. Remove to pan with the onion and carrots. heat the pan again, and remove the chicken from the marinade. save the marinade to make a sauce with it. wipe the chicken pieces if you like, i did n't bother. place the chicken pieces skin side down on the hot pan and let them sizzle and brown, over medium highish heat; the fat should render out of the skin but if it doesn't, add a little extra oil to the pan to encourage browning. when chicken is lightly browned and dark in some places, pour in the reserved marinade, cook a minute or so, then add the reserved vegetables and their jucies and cook together. if mixture is too liquidy, cook over a high heat for several minutes. if it is too dry, add a little more chicken broth. to really concentrate the juices without overcooking chicken and vegetables, remove them to serving platter and reduce the juices in pan to an almost essence. you don't want to thicken these juices with cornstarch/cornflour as if you were making a chinese stir fry. while it is stir frying togehter at the end, season with a sprinkling of five spice if desired, and also a drizzle of soy/fish sauce. serve right away. hope you guys enjoy, the recipe is directly from my notes, so not tested and retested as for a cookbook or column. but i can promise i'll be making it again one of these days. i was going to serve it with a watercress puree but ended up putting watercress in the leftover fried rice the next day.