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This weeks menu


ngatti

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Razor clams are tricky, and visually a bit... off-putting. I got fresh ones from Alex our fish guy and zoiks, I was pretty much...off-put...by seeing how active they were. Might not work in Demarest (and I say that with love, as I'm from Tenafly).

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Nick, I'm also curious how it turns out with your razors. I'm in the Pacific Northwest and the razors out here are prepared by dipping the (cleaned) dry or floured razors in egg, then cracker meal and quickly pan fried for a minute or 2 on each side until brown. Served with a homemade tarter sauce. Yummy!! I've also seen Ming Tsai prepare them in panko and fried and those looked good, too. It's one of our family's favorite meals (they even dig their own razors... and they are a pain to clean, but we do a much better job cleaning them than the ones sold at the market). Your menus, as well as Basildog's look fantastic! Thanks for listing them.

edit: just noticed I said dip in cracker crumbs, when I meant to say dip in cracker meal (or plain Progresso dry bread crumbs).

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Nick -- When you have a chance, could you consider discussing at what stage of preparation of the dish (late?) the duck confit becomes "pulled"?

I really like razor clams. Wilfrid and I saw them displayed in the glass case at the end of the bar area at Esca about a month ago. Note I visited Basildog's restaurant, and described my meal in an older thread in the UK forum (the name may be "Lunch at Basildog's?") :wink:

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Nick -- When you have a chance, could you consider discussing at what stage of preparation of the dish (late?) the duck confit becomes "pulled"?

Cabrales,

The dishes separate elements are place'd before service. The duck meat is 'pulled' from the leg before service. it is gently heated in some fat and then mounded on the plate with the seared Foie Gras placed on top.

Nick

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This weeks menu.

APPETIZERS

Shrimp Cocktail 14.

Fried Calamari; Wakame Seaweed Salad and Red Chili Dipping Sauce 10.

A Soup of Thai Flavors with Ruby Red Prawns 12.

Beef Carpaccio Negamaki Roll; Scallion Frites and Wasabi 10.

Torchon of Foie Gras Poached in Red Wine; Baby Greens; Fig Shallot Jam; Cracked Pepper Caramel14.

A Bakers Dozen of Wellfleet Clams on the ½ SHell; Cocktail and Mignonette Sauces 12.

Tempura Battered Fresh Sardines; Summer Corn and Fava Succotash; Citrus Vinaigrette 9.

Pacific Stone Crab Claws; Mustard Dipping Sauce 21.

TONIGHT’S SELECTIONS

Prosciutto Wrapped Arctic Char

Risotto and Baby Vegetalbes; Garlic Beurre Blanc 22.

City Island Style Broiled Bay Scallops

House Made Tartar Sauce and Baked Potato Steak Fries 23

Grilled Daurade Royale

with Roasted Fennel, Tomatoes, Shallots and Olives 22.

Steak Frites

Grilled Onglette (Hanger Steak) with Charred onion, Seasonal Tomato and Thin Frites 20

Sautéed Thin Cut Calves Liver

Sweet Onions, Applewood Smoked Bacon, Garlic Mashed Potatoes and Sherry Sauce 26

Pan Roasted French Cut Chicken Breast

On a Bed of Asparagus, Morels and Chanterelles; Small Roasted Potatoes Marchand Du Vin Sauce 19.

Thanx

Nick

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Nick, I've never used sea bream. Is this with a potato crust?

What are the scallion frites?

"I've caught you Richardson, stuffing spit-backs in your vile maw. 'Let tomorrow's omelets go empty,' is that your fucking attitude?" -E. B. Farnum

"Behold, I teach you the ubermunch. The ubermunch is the meaning of the earth. Let your will say: the ubermunch shall be the meaning of the earth!" -Fritzy N.

"It's okay to like celery more than yogurt, but it's not okay to think that batter is yogurt."

Serving fine and fresh gratuitous comments since Oct 5 2001, 09:53 PM

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It really should have read scallion frizzle, but frites worked.

We sliced very fresh scallions on an extreme bias, then added very thin angel hair julienne of carrot. Also added paper thin slices of ginger.

I mixed together thoroughly and then dampened the mix with cold water. Sprinkle flour (corn starch) over a portion of the mix and swirl about until ingredients are coated and just slightly gummy. Hard to describe. Drop into the fryer stir about and lift out BEFORE they develop any brown color.

garnish the dish immediately lest this quasi-tempura go limp and cold.

Nick

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Scallion frites...omigod.

Nick, your foie gras app sounds luscious. Is the caramel a sauce, glaze, crackle? One of the amuses at Jean Georges Friday night was seared duck foie set on a sliver of marinated peach, with a dab of caramel foam alongside.

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As always a great menu. I have been playing a little game with your menu. It seems that some dishes you make "for yourself" and not the clientele. I try to guess which dishes might be overlooked. This week my guesses are the beef carpaccio, the foie gras and the sardines for appetizers. The char, the daurade and maybe the liver for the main. What do you think? By the way, these are dishes I would definitely order!

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talk to me about the soup of "thai flavors". what are you using for that thai feel. lemongrass? kaffir? lime juice? ginger? coconut milk? fish sauce? or are you making more of a "generic" thai influenced soup for those conservative palates. inquiring minds...

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Jinmyo asked:

Nick, I've never used sea bream. Is this with a potato crust?

No potao crust, Jin. But sounds like an excellent suggestion.

My fax from Pierless (excellent fishmonger who deserves at least half the credit I get) said Daurade Royale. I couldn't reference it in any of my fish books (McClane, etc). So I went online and found some Michelin starred restaurants websites with recipes in french! When I explored some of the more non-food technical sites, I found it was also refered to as Bream. This I've heard of but not cooked (...I thought). When the photos came up I said "Aha!", a Porgy! This I know. So I dealt with it in the same way I might deal with Porgies that I'd caught myself off Montauk.

Cathyl asked:

your Foie Gras app sounds luscious. Is the caramel a sauce, glaze, crackle? One of the amuses at Jean Georges Friday night was seared duck foie set on a sliver of marinated peach, with a dab of caramel foam alongside.

The sauce is merely light brown caramel shot with mignonette pepper. It is kept warm in a squeeze bottle and drizzled over the plate at service. The Torchon recipe was inspired by a similar one in Michael Ginor's book. I love peaches with Foie Gras. Don't be surprised to see them next week. :smile:

Lizziee asked:

I try to guess which dishes might be overlooked. This week my guesses are the beef carpaccio, the foie gras and the sardines for appetizers. The char, the daurade and maybe the liver for the main. What do you think?

You score points for guessing the negamaki(2) and major points for the sardines(1). Foie Gras usually sells well in this club. Calves Liver also tends to sell well. The membership is aware of my fanaticism about sourcing the freshest fish that I am able to. Hence they will usually order whatever fish that I have available. Curiously, no one ordered the Char sans prosciutto. Now That's unusual! BTW the main course dog was the onglette(2).

Cabrales asked:

When you have a chance, please consider discussing the sourcing of the Pacific stone crab claws.  Have you considered a non-mustard-based dipping sauce for the item?

Stone Crabs are currently quite out of season in Fla. These were touted as the same species. Probably not exactly, but from the looks and taste of them, taxonomically pretty close. The shells were brown colored rather than the cream color one usually associates with this crab. I was told that these claws came from Baja Mexico. My fishmonger (True World) told me that he trusted the source and since our relationship is very good, I saw no reason not to take him at his word.

Re: mustard sauce.

The menu was pretty dificult to source, prepare and execute. I just wanted to save some agro by giving the members something they'd be familiar with (all seem to be winter regulars at Joe's :wink: ). If I tried to get cute with the dish, I'd find myself serving the mustard sauce anyway. Personally, I'm at a loss trying to understand the fascination with Stone Crabs. This creature is screaming for somebody to serve it in a new and interesting way.

Tommy asked:

talk to me about the soup of "thai flavors". what are you using for that thai feel. lemongrass? kaffir? lime juice? ginger? coconut milk? fish sauce? or are you making more of a "generic" thai influenced soup for those conservative palates. inquiring minds...

All of the above, Tommy. Plus fish fumet galangal, and holy basil.

The shrimp were split down the back, deveined and sauteed in the shell in a light sesame oil mix. The seasoned broth was poured over the shrimp and they were quickly cooked. A scoop of jasmine rice (cooked in coconut milk) was placed in a bowl. The broth poured about the rice. The shrimp stacked atop the rice and a mix of Holy Basil, Cilantro and Scallion slivers was sprinkled over the lot.

A lot of thanks to all who asked questions. Your questions and comments were most welcome. I had much fun replying to everyone.

Thanks

Nick

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  • 3 weeks later...

DINNER MENU

GRILLED MACKEREL WITH CHERRY TOMATO SALSA

GRILLED GOATS CHEESE WITH ROASTED PEPPERS

ROAST AUBERGINE WITH FETA CHEESE

AND LOCAL BEETROOT

STIR FRIED “THAI “ SQUID

SAUTE GUINEA FOWL WITH ORANGE AND LOCAL LEAF SALAD

———————————————–

RACK OF LAMB WITH A HERB CRUST, ROSEMARY JUS,

AND SPRING ONION MASH.

CONFIT OF DUCK WITH MUSTARD CREAM SAUCE,

AND SAUTÉ POTATOES.

STEAMED FILLET OF PLAICE STUFFED WITH CARROT AND LEEK, WITH CRAB BUTTER SAUCE AND NEW POTATOES

BAKED SKATE WING WITH GARLIC, ANCHOVY AND PARSELY WITH HERB MASH

ROAST MONKFISH WRAPPED IN PARMA HAM WITH CABBAGE,NEW POTATOES AND FISH CREAM SAUCE

———————————————–

STICKY TOFFEE PUDDING WITH BUTTERSCOTCH SAUCE.

FUDGE AND NUT ICE CREAM IN A BRANDY SNAP BASKET

LEMON AND LIME CHEESECAKE WITH BAKED PEACH SLICES

SAFFRON POACHED PEARS WITH CLOTTED CREAM AND STRAWBERRY SORBET

SELECTION OF BRITISH CHEESES.

ALL MEALS INCLUDE HOME-MADE BREAD, MARINATED

OLIVES, AND A SELECTION OF SEASONAL VEGETABLES.

THREE COURSES £24.95

TWO COURSES £19.95

Not that different from the last one..but what a egullet member ate from last night

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DINNER MENU

GRILLED MACKEREL  WITH CHERRY TOMATO SALSA

GRILLED GOATS CHEESE WITH ROASTED PEPPERS

ROAST AUBERGINE WITH FETA CHEESE

AND LOCAL BEETROOT

STIR FRIED  “THAI “ SQUID

SAUTE GUINEA FOWL WITH ORANGE AND LOCAL LEAF SALAD

———————————————–

RACK OF LAMB WITH A HERB CRUST, ROSEMARY JUS,

AND SPRING ONION MASH.

CONFIT OF DUCK WITH MUSTARD CREAM SAUCE,

AND SAUTÉ POTATOES.

STEAMED FILLET OF PLAICE STUFFED WITH CARROT AND LEEK, WITH CRAB BUTTER SAUCE AND NEW POTATOES

BAKED SKATE WING WITH GARLIC, ANCHOVY AND PARSELY WITH HERB MASH

ROAST MONKFISH WRAPPED IN PARMA HAM WITH CABBAGE,NEW        POTATOES AND FISH CREAM SAUCE

———————————————–

STICKY TOFFEE PUDDING WITH BUTTERSCOTCH SAUCE.

FUDGE AND NUT ICE CREAM IN A BRANDY SNAP BASKET

LEMON AND LIME CHEESECAKE WITH BAKED PEACH SLICES

SAFFRON POACHED PEARS WITH CLOTTED CREAM AND STRAWBERRY SORBET

SELECTION OF BRITISH CHEESES.

ALL MEALS INCLUDE HOME-MADE BREAD, MARINATED

OLIVES, AND A SELECTION OF SEASONAL VEGETABLES.

THREE COURSES £24.95

TWO COURSES £19.95

Not that different from the last one..but what a egullet member ate from last night

:cool::cool::cool:

Nick

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For the benefit (or detriment) of Egullet.

August 16, 2002

APPETIZERS

Shrimp Cocktail 14.

Steamed Bouchot MusselsSpanish Chorizo in White Wine Tomato Broth 11.

Seasonal Wild Mushroom Risotto 10.

Seared Foie Gras and Panko Fried Pink Shrimp DuetRed Chili Coconut Sauce and Crisp Rice Paper 15.

Chilled Lump Crab Cocktail with Three Sauces 14.

Capellini with Sautéed Ruby Red Shrimp, Olives, Tomato and Garlic 14.

Roasted Halibut Cheeks; Pancetta Lardons and Small Greens 11.

TONIGHT’S SELECTIONS

Tuna Carpaccio – Heirloom Tomatoes with Fresh Herbs,Tuscan Olive Oil and Fingerling Potato Salad - 24.

Pan Roasted New Zealand Barramundi

Roasted Shallot Slivers, Tomato, Butter Carved Potatoes and

Baby Vegetables - 22.

Sautéed Dover Sole – Crisp Anna Potatoes, Asparagus Tips, English Peas and Ginger Beurre Blanc - 30.

Grilled Veal Paillard –20.Wild Mushrooms in Cabernet Sauce and Parmesan Polenta - 20

Bone in Beef Rib Steak

Smothered with Charred Onions and Mashed Potatoes - 32.00

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I've never told you how much I enjoy these, ngatti--chefs posting and taking questions about their menus is one of the coolest and most unique features of eGullet.

Tell me more about that foie and shrimp app--it sounds like an incredible combo if you've pulled it off. :cool: What goes into the sauce?

Matthew Amster-Burton, aka "mamster"

Author, Hungry Monkey, coming in May

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I'm just amazed at the lowness of those prices. Are you able to do that because you get some sort of subsidy, or are you just a genius?

When you do shrimp cocktail, what procedure do you utilize? I sort of like the idea of shrimp cocktail but I find that it's typically served too cold, the shrimp are overcooked and rubbery, and that the sauce is sickly sweet.

Do you make the risotto to order from scratch or is the rice par-cooked? Have you tasted one versus the other and do you have an opinion of the par-cooking method's effectiveness? Do you finish the risotto with butter, cream, olive oil, cheese, or all four?

Are those Ruby Red shrimp the ones from the Gulf of Mexico?

Pancetta lardons?

And who is Barramundi?

Steven A. Shaw aka "Fat Guy"
Co-founder, Society for Culinary Arts & Letters, sshaw@egstaff.org
Proud signatory to the eG Ethics code
Director, New Media Studies, International Culinary Center (take my food-blogging course)

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