Dining, drinking in Champagne

[AdamLawrence]

We'll be driving through Champagne (on the autoroute) in a couple of weeks time. Want to stop off for lunch, probably somewhere in the Reims/Epernay area - something simple, preferably with no need to reserve (but that's not a necessity, just that there's always potential for problems on the road, and I don't want to blow out a reservation). No Boyer, this time, sadly Do members have any suggestions for good, simple food in that part of France?

cheers

Adam

[PaulaJ]

Having returned recently from a week in Reims, I have little

to offer you. If you do find yourselves in the area of the

promenade [street closed for pedestrians] there is a

decent but simple cafe --L'Aposthrophe. On a side street

off of this promenade I enjoyed a quite tasty dinner

in Le Vigneraie. I do not know if they are open for lunch.

You might try the Reims tourism site which offers a list

of restaurants w. addresses. If you are eager for Alsatian

fare, odd sounding pizzas or flans, you will find cafes aplenty.

[cabrales]

Adam -- Consider visiting the Reims cathedral, including the beautiful Marc Chagall stained glass windows.

[Gary Marshall]

Adam

i would second l'Apostrophe ( i think its on place drout d'erlon), the food is simple cafe but the place is more akin to a great parisian brasserie, tons of atmosphere, and huge, personal fave salade paysanne! It's where i'd stop en route to beaune from calais for sure!

You can park in the big free central car par that runs down the middle of reims, opposite the station/ibis (and the location of the stage finish of the tour d france, fact fans).

Also i would second 'la vingeraie, (not to be confused with le vigneron). It is on rue thillois and is fab, and very good value, it is open for lunch but is more formal than l'apostrophe, it has recently doubled in size but i would call ahead on the mobile and resverve, just top be sure as restaurants in this area seem to go from empty to full v quickly between 12.00 and 12.30 with locals (though you'll be ok at l'apos as it is huge).

It's bit further off the autoroute but if you find yourself in Epernay, then 'Au cave de champagne' is good as is 'le table du kobus' (but would require reservation if late).

both are in michelin and central. kobus is signposted (don't you just love the way the french singpost decent restaurants )it's near the station

hope that helps

gary

[PaulaJK]

Gary's post reminds me of Le Vigneron. This restaurant is

located centrally...small, decorated with old posters and

wine barrels....has a small 'wine musuem'. We met another

couple there for lunch on a previous visit to the region and

all of us very much enjoyed our lunch. I would place it

[roughly] as more restaurant than L"Aposthrope and less

than Le Vgineraie.

Along the rte from Reims to Epernay, set off to the right

was a marvelous restaurant whose named I can't recall....

perhaps it was Gary's suggestion. Anyway, the food was

lovely ...although more elaborate than the above choices.

[lizziee]

Aux Armes de Champagne- Lunch

Aux Armes de Champagne is a Michelin 1 star located in l'Epine about 49 km from Reims. We wanted to have a light lunch as we were eating at Boyer that night.

The restaurant is simple, but very pretty. It has marble floors, a planked ceiling, white tablecloths and small plants on each table.

With our champagne we had a cheese feuillette and a parmesan cheese crisp.

The amuse was a small slice of smoked white fish with shredded red cabbage in a balsamic vinegar reduction served on a smoky glass plate.

We decided on the menu of one entree, one main dish and dessert.

1st course--"groin de couchon" done in the style of the chef. The pate was excellent. Thinly sliced daikon radish, edged with nori was rolled at one end of the plate and served as a garnish. The pate and accompanying mustard sauce was classically French. The daikon provided a modern touch.

2nd course

Me - 4 small slices of duck with beets in a caramel reduction duck sauce. No bells and whistles, just solid food, well-prepared.

My husband - well-seasoned lamb, cooked perfectly rose, with a crusty coating of herbs. Again, a classic dish, well-executed.

Dessert--a cat's tongue cookie with assorted berries as a filling with a vanilla cream sauce

Service:

David, the 24 year old, Dutch born, Belgian educated maitre d/sommelier was knowledgeable, professional and charming with very good English.

Wine:

99 Gigondas, Domaine Brusset--young, fruity, and very full bodied - nice and reasonable (44 euros).

Aux Armes de Champagne is a nice "country" restaurant with a young, classically aware chef. The staff is also young but competent and eager. This is a perfect One Michelin Star experience, meaning the "best in the area."

[RoyK]

My wife and I will be spending 1 day touring Eperany and Reims in February 2006 and would like a recommendation on a restaurant for dinner that has a great but reasonable champagne list. Our plans are to visit a couple champagne houses during the day and then to have an early dinner and catch the train back to Paris.

Thank you in advance for your suggestions.

Cheers,

Roy

[mdibiaso]

My wife and I will be spending 1 day touring Eperany and Reims in February 2006 and would like a recommendation on a restaurant for dinner that has a great but reasonable champagne list.  Our plans are to visit a couple champagne houses during the day and then to have an early dinner and catch the train back to Paris. 

Thank you in advance for your suggestions.

Cheers,

Roy

←

Les Crayeres has a great and extremely reasonably priced champagne list with all the big houses and lots of small houses. Eating there is not cheap, but the setting and food are fabulous.

[John Talbott]

My wife and I will be spending 1 day touring Eperany and Reims in February 2006

←

These two threads may be helpful - here and here.

[TarteTatin]

We were just there a few weeks ago!

Granted, all restaurants were closed between Christmas and New Year's.

BUT-

Cave au Champagne off the main square in Epernay was extremely good value and good food.

It was 15 euros for a 3 course lunch, and the Champagne list was amazing! We had boudin blanc over feuillete with morels to start, filet with a marchand du vin sauce, dessert was tarte au pomme and fromage frais avec fresh fruit-can't remember all the details, but it was very good.

The Champagne list was huge and we had a bottle of Pierre Peters Blanc de Blanc that was stunning. They don't import to the US and we tracked down the village in the snow and they were closed! Most of the Champagne was around 29-35 euros.

La Grillade was open too. We had grilled fish and other items with a party of four in the fireplace in the dining room. Pretty good.

Chez Max was a really informal place, not great food, but a really convivial atmosphere.

All in Epernay.

We stayed at a Chambre d'hote in Mareuil-sur-Ay, in a Champagne house called Guy Charbaut. Good, but a bit like Fawlty Towers! Our friends stayed in the same village-La Marotiere- a huge and classy place, both for about 68 euros a night! It was right across from Billecart-Salmon (which was not open to the public. If you want to know the Champagne houses we visited, email us.

Oh, if you want to take a drive to St. Menehould, there's a place called Cheval Blanc that wasn't open, but where we were headed, that serves frites cooked in pork fat. So we went to the place across the street and my hubby had pigs foot. They serve that about 10 different ways, along with Andouillette a few ways and two omelettes. I had an omelette with lardon, that was beautiful. It's about 45 minutes east of Epernay (in the snow), had a liquor similar to Ratafia from the Lorraine....Louis the 16th was captured there because he had a fondness for pigs feet. Very interesting.

[lesanglierrouge]

I'll be spending the weekend in Reims. Any input would be greatly appreciated.

[smorris291]

When I was last there (Oct. 2004), we spent 3 days in the area, in Reims and Epernay (which isn't far away). I'm assuming that you're planning on visiting some Champagne houses...here are the comments I have on the big ones we visited:

-Taittinger: Very cool caverns under the site of a 13 c. church. Guided tour was pretty good. Offered their standard NV for tastes.

-Piper Heidsieck: Tour was Disney-esque, featuring a tour in a "Mr. Toad's Wild Ride"-like car. Amusing, but only if you have extra time.

-Veuve Clicquot: Also cool caverns and a slick tour.

-Perrier Jouet: The best tour we had, mainly because there were just 4 of us on a guided tour. This place seemed the most active workplace, and we got to see large format bottles on the line being disgorged and corked. Best overview of the process. Got bumped up to a taste of Fleur de Champagne for no extra charge due to the small tour size.

We also drove around and went to some small producers in the small towns surrounding the Montagne de Reims. The name of them escape me, but two of them were very tiny, and although the proprietors spoke no english, we had some tastes and a good time. We also had a good experience at the tasting room at Mailly, where we got to try pretty much every thing for free since we ended up buying some bottles.

As far as the town of Reims goes...well, it's just OK. Most of the town has been rebuilt since WWI and WWII. The food/drink in town were average, and not as good as I expected. Didn't get the chance to make it to Les Crayeres (which probably would have redeemed the food in Reims) though we did have a wonderful meal at Royal Champagne (a Relais & Chateaux property) just outside of Epernay. Epernay was a little more "charming", as my wife would put it. We also had a nice lunch at Le Teatre in Epernay as well.

My advice would be to pick one or two bigger houses to tour/taste at, but try to get off the beaten track and wander into some smaller houses...

[John Talbott]

I'll be spending the weekend in Reims. Any input would be greatly appreciated.

←

Have you done a search on eGullet yet; at least two members have recently sought info on the area.

[TarteTatin]

Yes, we were in Reims and Epernay and Ay over Christmas.

Between Boxing Day and New Year's Eve this past year, 05 just before 06.

We posted lots of stuff, can't remember the title of the thread?

Anyway, IM us if you want anything specific.

[John Talbott]

Yes, we were in Reims and Epernay and Ay over Christmas.

Between Boxing Day and New Year's Eve this past year, 05 just before 06.

We posted lots of stuff, can't remember the title of the thread?

Anyway, IM us if you want anything specific.

←

Dinner suggestion for Epernay/Reims,

Les Crayeres,

Champagne restaurants Epernay from Christmas to New Year's

[Gary Marshall]

i noticed there was a new one star in reims announced in this years book www.lemillenaire.com don't know what it's like though.

there's plenty of places on the main drag place drouet d'erlon.

l'apostrophe is quite a fun brasserie.

i like la vigneraie on rue thillois.

in epernay la table de kobus is good near the station and les berceaux brasserie/restaurant are decent (was once starred don't think they regained it).