Cooking with "All About Braising" by Molly Stevens (Part 1)

[gourmande]

...I'd agree with this if we haven't gotten another few centimetres of snow last night.  However, braises are ideally suited to cold weather cooking I think. I'll hopefully get one or two more in before the days start to warm up and I turn to the grill for the next season of cooking.

So, since we've been "Braising with Molly", shall we be "Grilling with Bobby"?

[andiesenji]

Another thing that is excellent for the low temp braise is braciola (Italian) or rouladen (German), both made with meat that is rather tough but has lots of flavor, pounded to an even thinness and rolled around a stuffing that can be made with various ingredients from bread/crackers to rice and vegetables, sausage, nuts and etc. There are many recipes that can be adapted to your own tastes.

The sauces can also vary widely from a thick and meaty gravy to a tomato type and spicy sauces.

The best way is to make small rolls that will each be an individual serving rather than one large roll.

Edited March 22, 2005 by andiesenji (log)

[fifi]

I have finished the Pork Rendang. I went by the recipe as best I could. One of the frustrations is when a recipe says "2 1/2 inch piece of ginger" what does that mean? Ginger is quite variable as to diameter. The same goes with the other roots, how big are the garlic cloves, whatever. I would much rather see volume or weight measurements when working with any kind of produce. I am not sure it makes a lot of difference in a recipe like this but if the flavor balances are critical, it could make a lot of difference. That rant over, here are the ingredients for the sauce:

Top left to right: galangal, ginger, tumeric, lemon grass.

A tip here. When working with fibrous ingredients that are going to remain in the sauce, I slice them thinly across the fiber. This will result in short segments in the sauce that are not bothersome. Notice that I also substituted three fresh chiles. I could have used more but that is ok since I often cook these dishes mild and let folks adjust with hot sauce.

I processed this in the mini-bowl of my Kitchen Aid food processor. It took a surprisingly long time and more water than Molly suggested, about 1/3 cup. You can see the texture of the sauce at the end of the frying here:

You can see the graininess right out of the processor. It is not unpleasant. If I had a bigger mortar and pestle, I could have probably gotten to a smooth sauce. (Note to self: order bigger M&P.) There really is a change while frying to where the oil starts to separate back out and the whole thing gets glossy. I couldn't capture it well. This is at the end of the frying of the sauce.

Having added the whole spices, coconut milk and the meat, it went into cook down mode. This took about 3 hours before it actually started to fry some. I may have been a bit timid on the temperature and I switched burners and lost some time there. No problem as this step doesn't require a lot of attention. I will note that it didn't start to "smell right" until I added the lime leaves.

The frying step didn't go as well as I like. I didn't have enough fat. I will blame that on the pork. Also, I found trying to fry in the pot bothersome. What I finally did is spread it all out on a lined baking sheet and put it under the broiler. I find that lining a sheet with foil makes for more even browning. That worked great. It took about 10 minutes, turning the pieces once. This reminds me of a technique that we discussed in the tagine thread.

Still not much fat. Oh well, it sure looks good.

And . . . It is!

OK . . . I have been reading the eGCI course on plating. I am not artistic and I was too chicken to try tadpoles with the sriracha.

Comments: I had to add more salt than called for. I was tasting as it went, keeping in mind that it was all going to cook down. I would love to try this with a well pounded smoother sauce. But the grainy sauce is really nice. I like the little crunch of those bits of root. If I do it again with pork, I will look for fattier pork. I am thinking that if I do it with chicken, I will have to add more oil at the frying step to compensate. Or, chicken fat maybe? I will also bet that adding some fish sauce wouldn't hurt.

But, I think we have indeed found the elusive Thai Carnitas!

Now, does anyone know how to get tumeric stains out of my fingernails? Clorox worked on the plastic bowl and blade of the FP. I am afraid my tee-shirt is permanently yellow spotted. Next time, wear black.

[Richard Kilgore]

Wow! Linda, that looks delicious. And looks like you do have a bit of the plating artiste in you after all.

[snowangel]

A couple of thoughts, Linda. When I did the Rendang (I used beef), the chuck I had was quite fatty with lots of that connective tissue, so oil wan't a problem. Which makes me think that chicken might not be such a good idea after all. I think fat in the meat is probably essential.

And, this is quite different than carnitas in that the coconut milk leaves a lot of sediment, so the frying is quite different. Mine looked a lot darker, but that could have been because of the color of beef, photography, or whatever.

Anyway, it looks wonderful. And, this is a most wonderful dish. I'm going to watch for butts to go on sale and repeat this with some nice, fatty pork butt.

[fifi]

Oddly enough I was thinking the same thing about the chicken but she mentions chicken as an alternative in the preamble to the recipe. I think it is doable with thigh meat and added fat at the sauce frying stage. You are going to get some coconut oil out of the milk. I was just surprised there wasn't more. I think it was absorbed into the tiny bits in the sauce.

She also mentions in the recipe that the beef contributes to the darkening color. I wasn't surprised at that.

The pork I bought was labeled "boneless country ribs." Logically, I would have thought that came more from the shoulder. While cutting the chunks, I began to suspect that it was from the leaner loin. Next time (and I will do this again) I will get a pork butt and cut it myself.

Any thoughts on the fish sauce?

[snowangel]

I wouldn't add fish sauce. I guess I liked the fact that it didn't have fish sauce. Now, don't get me wrong. I love fish sauce. I use lots of it. But, this dish lacked that fishsauce thing, which I think made the other tastes stand out more, but I could be wrong.

Boneless country ribs. My local supermarket guy says that they can be from shoulder, or loin. He always advises me to get the butt or a picnic instead of the loin.

And, as to the chicken. I truely believe there is a big difference to having well marbled meat as opposed to adding fat to the pan. So, I'll save my cute little thighs for frying.

[Octaveman]

Greetings everyone,

I've been half heartedly looking at posts in this thread and my curiosity got the best of me...I bought the book. I read the intro through the 10 stages last night and based on what Molly said about the braising vessel I don't have the optimal pans to use for low profile braises.

I have a Staub 7.5 qt oval and I've done some braises of short ribs and pork roasts with good success from what I can tell. Next big thing will be baby back ribs so I'm glad I got the big size for those big jobs. But I think I need a smaller one and/or lower profiled one.

So my question is what does everyone use for their low profiled foods like veggies, chicken, fish and whatnot? Could you list what you have and what you cook with it?

What pan would you recommend for both stove-top browning and oven braising if different from above: Casserole, Saute, Rondeau, low enameled cast iron, Cazuelas, or other? Brands? Quart size?

I want to get started with these recipes ASAP so please let me know what would be ideal for the smaller jobs. I'm not totally against spending the money for higher end stuff if it's worth the extra cost. But it would have to be well worth it.

Thanks a bunch for your help,

Bob

[fifi]

Sounds to me like you have a great start with the Staub. I don't know that you really have to have a low profile pot. I would just use the Staub with crumpled wet parchment. But, I would not have the parchment draped over the edge like Molly shows. I now put the parchment all inside the pot, wet and crumpled, just above the food, al la Wolfert.

So, unless you just like new toys, you are good to go.

Check out the clay pot threads and the tagine thread about those. However, I do need to issue a Wolfert Warning. Two weeks ago I had no clay pots. I now have four and a tagine.

[Octaveman]

Sounds to me like you have a great start with the Staub. I don't know that you really have to have a low profile pot. I would just use the Staub with crumpled wet parchment. But, I would not have the parchment draped over the edge like Molly shows. I now put the parchment all inside the pot, wet and crumpled, just above the food, al la Wolfert.

Not sure I have a good mental picture of this.

So, unless you just like new toys, you are good to go.

Oh, I LOVE new toys. I'm all about new toys.

Check out the clay pot threads and the tagine thread about those. However, I do need to issue a Wolfert Warning.  Two weeks ago I had no clay pots. I now have four and a tagine. 

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Funny...are clay pots really that good for braising? I've never used one.

[fifi]

Octaveman . . . Check out this post in the eGCI braising thread. There is a whole seminar there and lots of good info.

I also did a pot comparison with chicken here to supplement what was done in the seminar with beef.

[fifi]

I tried something today that is quite interesting. I was at the grocery browsing around in the meat department, and here was this one pound package of "stew meat" that was really pretty good looking. (I normally buy chuck and cut it myself.) Since I continue to cut down recipes for one, I snatched it up and then started trying to decide what to do.

I remembered my report on the "Red Wine Braised Shortribs with Rosemary & Porcini" where I was grousing about the fiddliness of the recipe. And, I had all of the ingredients on hand, including some of the same Shiraz, so what the heck. I really liked the flavor of that recipe.

*Warning - If you are sensitive about recipe abuse, please do not read any further.*

I decided to throw caution to the wind and revert to my lazier days of braising. Since this is a spur of the moment deal, I obviously didn't marinate. Out go the aromatics. I did, however keep the other seasonings. The other new twist in this heresy is that I am going to use the black chamba clay pot. All other ingredients are the same, adjusted for quantity. (Well, I do have to confess that I tend to exaggerate spices a bit. I find most published recipes a bit tame. But, I did that the first time around, too.) I did brown the meat. Dump. Into the pot along with the spices. No, I didn't tie them up in a neat little bag. I will strain them out later. I sauted the onion and garlic a bit and deglazed with red wine. Dump. Added the rest of the ingredients and mushroom water and a bit more wine to bring the liquid level to about halfway up the sides of the meat. I placed the sprig of rosemary on top and added the parchment. Lid on and into a cold oven, now turned on to 250 degrees F. Two and a half hours later, I have this luscious beef in the nicely thickened sauce that is heaven on a fork. I am convinced that the clay pot is to blame for the fabulous texture of the sauce. I can't wait to reheat it tomorrow.

So, I plead guilty to recipe abuse. I suppose that I should rightly be shut away into the eGullet dungeon for habitual offenders . . . but, you have to catch me first.

[snowangel]

So, if the chamba is so wonderful, why did we all buy LC?

Yes, throw caution to the wind, Linda. Recipe abuse? I'm guilty of it on a daily basis!

[Smithy]

So, if the chamba is so wonderful, why did we all buy LC?

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My husband has been asking that same question with regard to the Egyptian stuff I've started to use.

I am mightily amused, and have been giggling for hours, at Fifi, the resident hypnotist, issuing a Wolfert Alert.

Pot. Kettle. Black.

[fifi]

OK you guys!

My LC still has a place in my heart, even though I am flirting with the new guy in town.

If I am going to set a braise to 225 degrees F and go off shopping, I will use the LC. It is predictable. It is dependable. It is not sexy. And it is great for gumbos and stews.

Clay pots have a sense of danger, the unknown, the unpredictable. Sort of like that mysterious stranger that you are unreasonably attracted to and you don't quite know what to expect. That is sexy.

[k43]

If I had a bigger mortar and pestle, I could have probably gotten to a smooth sauce. (Note to self: order bigger M&P.)

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Here's the ultimate M&P <http://importfood.com/thaicookware.html>

[fifi]

. . . . .

Here's the ultimate M&P <http://importfood.com/thaicookware.html>

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That is exactly what I have, the 6". I need the 8". The smaller one is fine for spices and small amounts of seasoning but much too small for sauces.

[Wolfert]

undefinedClay pots have a sense of danger, the unknown, the unpredictable. Sort of like that mysterious stranger that you are unreasonably attracted to and you don't quite know what to expect. That is sexy

Allow me to sprinkle a little saltpeter around.

Try the new simmer mat from chefscatalog.com

I can't explain why it works but it does on all kinds of heat sources and controls the heat to a low simmer without fear of burning. You bring the food to a boil, turn the heat to low, and the food will remain safe for hours. Your braise doesn't overcook, burn, or boil dry.

Edited March 25, 2005 by Wolfert (log)

[andiesenji]

. . . . .

Here's the ultimate M&P <http://importfood.com/thaicookware.html>

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That is exactly what I have, the 6". I need the 8". The smaller one is fine for spices and small amounts of seasoning but much too small for sauces.

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I have several of the Mason Cash mortars from England. However last fall I broke my biggest, (12 inch) and am missing it greatly. (I pulled a dish towel off the counter, unaware that the mortar was sitting on one corner - my own fault for not paying attention.)

For some reason the places that used to carry them in the U.S. no longer do and I haven't even been able to order one from England. My daughter tried to find one last year when she was living in Scotland and it was also no-go.

I have a bunch of mortars of various sizes and different materials but I really loved that old MC one, especially for making aioli in large batches.

[fifi]

. . . . .

Allow me to sprinkle a little saltpeter around.

Try the new simmer mat from chefshop.com..

. . . . .

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No fun!

I couldn't find the simmer mat on that site but I did find it here.

[Richard Kilgore]

That site lists them as out of stock, Linda. I have one that I picked up last year. They are made in New Zealand. It is not enameled like that the one described on that site. It appears to be aluminized steel instead. The shop I got mine from was discontinuing carrying them, and I have not seen one elsewhere.

[Wolfert]

http://www.chefscatalog.com/store/catalog/...Id=cprod8720054

Sorry: it was chefscatalog.

descritpion in catalog:Ideal for slow cooking, delicate sauces, or to keep water hot without boiling, this mat can be placed on any cooking surface to disperse heat, eliminating hot spots for gentle, long-term cooking. Made of zero-carbon enameled steel, it lets you use any pot as a double boiler, slow cooker, or rice cooker, enhancing heat control to prevent sticking and burning. Works on gas, electric, glass, ceramic, and induction burners, even on camping stoves. 8"Dia. x .25" thick. Imported.

Richard: did you like the way it worked? I found it is really useful with clay pot cooking because I can leave the kitchen for hours and not worry.

Edited March 25, 2005 by Wolfert (log)

[Richard Kilgore]

I'll have to try it with the clay pots, Paula. I have not used it a great deal. Just the design of it would suggest that it should reduce the heat level a little better than the enameled cast iron one I was using. I think the problem with most designs is that while they may be good at evening out the heat, they still transmit the full amount from the burner. They may eliminate hot spots, but they don't disipate heat the way this design does.

[fifi]

What Richard said is exactly right. The key to how this thing works is the little bumps. You have created an air gap between the pot and the heat source. I had to chuckle at "zero-carbon steel." There is no such thing.

[Octaveman]

I decided to throw caution to the wind and revert to my lazier days of braising. Since this is a spur of the moment deal, I obviously didn't marinate. Out go the aromatics. I did, however keep the other seasonings. The other new twist in this heresy is that I am going to use the black chamba clay pot.

...I am convinced that the clay pot is to blame for the fabulous texture of the sauce. I can't wait to reheat it tomorrow.

I'm intrigued. What size Chamba do you find most useful? I checked them out online but not 100% which one is the one I need. On the Nutierra.com site they have the saute pans with lids that are low profile and the higher profiled casserole pans. I can't tell how high they are. I'm guessing that the lower profile saute would be ideal since I already have a high profile Staub. Can these be used to brown on an electric stove?

Also considering a Cozeuela Con Tapa too from Spanishtable.com. Are the clay pots excellent for fish as well as land meats?

Out of the two choices above, which one would be the better choice?

thanks for the info,

Bob

Edited March 25, 2005 by Octaveman (log)